Some lock advice from a locksmith

Some lock advice from a locksmith

(I posted this in another thread, but I thought I would start a new
one for all of those people who will search it out in the future.
Please ask any questions on locks, methods, lubrication, and/or
maintenance that you may have)



Okay, I see one of these lock threads pop up every couple of weeks
here.

I am a CRL (certified registered locksmith) in Illinois. Have been for
about 14 years.

I have dealt with many customers' questions after they just lost their
bike to some thief. I know exactly which methods are used by thieves,
and exactly which methods will actually work best on most, if not all
of the locks out there.

Here are some thoughts:

You should lock your bike in accordance with:
1) Your risk of theft (crime rate in your area, or your personal
paranoia)
2) Your available budget on a locking system.
3) The value of your bicycle.
4) The length of time you will be leaving your bike locked.
*Not necessarily in that order*

Most bike thefts ARE a crime of opportunity. Committed by low level
thieves who carry around bolt cutters, pry bars, and/or a small jack.
**You CAN defend your bike against this type of theft with a locking
system.**

SOME (very few, at least to my knowledge, in chicago) bike thefts are
committed by individuals who specialize in this kind of work, have the
skill, speed, tools, and know-how to steal bikes very quickly. They
usually carry a variety of tools in a van and can steal, pretty much
any bike they want.
**You CANNOT prevent this type of theft with ANY locking system that I
have seen**

Thieves do not pick locks, they break them.

A cordless angle grinder with the right blade can and will cut through
any LOCK/CABLE/CHAIN that I have seen on the market. This can be done
in under five minutes per lock/cable.

So, you can't stop someone with a grinder, you can only slow them down
by using multiple locks.

The best way to lock your bike for MAXIMUM security is to use this
cable with this lock (links below), looping one end of the cable
through your front and back wheels, around the frame, and around
whatever you are locking to. Lock both ends of the cable with the
padlock. They will barely fit into the shackle, but they will fit.
Even more easily if you cut away the plastic covering in one small
section of the eyelets to help with this.

http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/product...=1938&catid=25

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/produ...=1001&pid=1124

Then use one or more kryptonite U locks (the best you can afford) to
lock the frame and/or wheels in addition to the above lock. This is
deterrence. Even hearty bike thieves will move on to another 'easier'
target when they see this. The more locks that they have to break or
cut through, even with a fast grinder, the better. Opportunistic
thieves won't even look twice before moving on.

Multi lock brand locks MUST be purchased through a locksmith. The
keyways are restricted to individual lockshops and, therefore, cannot
be duplicated, even by another multi lock dealing locksmith. When you
purchase a lock and keys, the key bitting(s) will be recorded by the
locksmith onto a key authorization form. The only people that will
ever be able to get keys to your lock will be the people named on this
list. Period. You will have to return to that same lockshop, with a
valid photo ID, to obtain replacement/extra keys (very handy if you
lose your keys).
The lock cylinders cannot be picked, drilled, or 'bumped' open.
Very secure.

Unless you are in a very low risk area, DO NOT use combination cable
locks. They are too easy to open if you know how, and it is not hard
to find out.

Don't lock your bike in dark, low traffic areas, or parking garages,
if it can be avoided.


With all of that being said, I use the above cable locking method, but
with a kryptonite U lock EVERY time I lock my bike. I will use a
secondary kryptonite U lock on the frame if I will be locking it for
an extended period of time.

I hate bike thieves.
You can't stop them all, but you can stop 90% of them if you just
invest a little money and lock your bike properly every time.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=520597

On Apr 8, 11:35*am, Ablang wrote:
Some lock advice from a locksmith

(I posted this in another thread, but I thought I would start a new
one for all of those people who will search it out in the future.
Please ask any questions on locks, methods, lubrication, and/or
maintenance that you may have)

Okay, I see one of these lock threads pop up every couple of weeks
here.

I am a CRL (certified registered locksmith) in Illinois. Have been for
about 14 years.

I have dealt with many customers' questions after they just lost their
bike to some thief. I know exactly which methods are used by thieves,
and exactly which methods will actually work best on most, if not all
of the locks out there.

Here are some thoughts:

You should lock your bike in accordance with:
1) Your risk of theft (crime rate in your area, or your personal
paranoia)
2) Your available budget on a locking system.
3) The value of your bicycle.
4) The length of time you will be leaving your bike locked.
*Not necessarily in that order*

Most bike thefts ARE a crime of opportunity. Committed by low level
thieves who carry around bolt cutters, pry bars, and/or a small jack.
**You CAN defend your bike against this type of theft with a locking
system.**

SOME (very few, at least to my knowledge, in chicago) bike thefts are
committed by individuals who specialize in this kind of work, have the
skill, speed, tools, and know-how to steal bikes very quickly. They
usually carry a variety of tools in a van and can steal, pretty much
any bike they want.
**You CANNOT prevent this type of theft with ANY locking system that I
have seen**

Thieves do not pick locks, they break them.

A cordless angle grinder with the right blade can and will cut through
any LOCK/CABLE/CHAIN that I have seen on the market. This can be done
in under five minutes per lock/cable.

So, you can't stop someone with a grinder, you can only slow them down
by using multiple locks.

The best way to lock your bike for MAXIMUM security is to use this
cable with this lock (links below), looping one end of the cable
through your front and back wheels, around the frame, and around
whatever you are locking to. Lock both ends of the cable with the
padlock. They will barely fit into the shackle, but they will fit.
Even more easily if you cut away the plastic covering in one small
section of the eyelets to help with this.

http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/product...=1938&catid=25

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/produ...spx?cid=1001&s....

Then use one or more kryptonite U locks (the best you can afford) to
lock the frame and/or wheels in addition to the above lock. This is
deterrence. Even hearty bike thieves will move on to another 'easier'
target when they see this. The more locks that they have to break or
cut through, even with a fast grinder, the better. Opportunistic
thieves won't even look twice before moving on.

Multi lock brand locks MUST be purchased through a locksmith. The
keyways are restricted to individual lockshops and, therefore, cannot
be duplicated, even by another multi lock dealing locksmith. When you
purchase a lock and keys, the key bitting(s) will be recorded by the
locksmith onto a key authorization form. The only people that will
ever be able to get keys to your lock will be the people named on this
list. Period. You will have to return to that same lockshop, with a
valid photo ID, to obtain replacement/extra keys (very handy if you
lose your keys).
The lock cylinders cannot be picked, drilled, or 'bumped' open.
Very secure.

Unless you are in a very low risk area, DO NOT use combination cable
locks. They are too easy to open if you know how, and it is not hard
to find out.

Don't lock your bike in dark, low traffic areas, or parking garages,
if it can be avoided.

With all of that being said, I use the above cable locking method, but
with a kryptonite U lock EVERY time I lock my bike. I will use a
secondary kryptonite U lock on the frame if I will be locking it for
an extended period of time.

I hate bike thieves.
You can't stop them all, but you can stop 90% of them if you just
invest a little money and lock your bike properly every time.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=520597

Thank you for your time and information. I would like to add that it
is as important to secure your bike to something secure too- there was
in the news someone who locked their bike to a small tree overnight to
awaken on morning to find the tree was cut down and the the bike
gone.

The best way to lock your bike for MAXIMUM security is to use
this cable with this lock ...

http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/product...=1938&catid=25

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/produ...=1001&pid=1124

=v= Mul-T-Lock, yes. Cable? Hell no. Get a Kryptonite
New York Chain and upgrade it with a Mul-T-Lock:

http://www.things.org/~jym/bicycles/...chain-lock.jpg

Then use one or more kryptonite U locks (the best you can
afford) to lock the frame and/or wheels in addition to the
above lock. This is deterrence. Even hearty bike thieves
will move on to another 'easier' target when they see this.

=v= Ah yes, the Republican approach to crime and safety:
let somebody else take the fall. The main problem here is
that it keeps the bike thieves thriving, saving up their
nickels until they get an angle grinder.

=v= I use substantial locks and chains because the local police
are content to let bike thieves thrive. The true solution is
not to let them thrive.
_Jym_

The best anti-theft system for bicycles is to ride a "crappy" looking
bicycle that nobody but yourself would want to be seen riding. I've
kept a couple of these for trips to places where I have to park the
bicycle and leave it. My good bicycles I keep in the house and only
ride when I'm not stopping off somewhere.
What constitutes a "crappy" bicycle? The best thing is to have a frame
that's well rusted and scratched, a front wheel that has at least one
spoke broken and twisted around two others, some kind of package
carrier that's out of style, and a seat that's comfortable but torn.
Oh, try to use back tires that are bald and dirty.
I've managed to use these "crappy" bicycles without worry in several
thousand trips each year, without locking them up.
You can still keep the bearings and chain well lubricated and the
bicycle usually lasts as long as a new one.


Ablang wrote:
Some lock advice from a locksmith

(I posted this in another thread, but I thought I would start a new
one for all of those people who will search it out in the future.
Please ask any questions on locks, methods, lubrication, and/or
maintenance that you may have)



Okay, I see one of these lock threads pop up every couple of weeks
here.

I am a CRL (certified registered locksmith) in Illinois. Have been for
about 14 years.

I have dealt with many customers' questions after they just lost their
bike to some thief. I know exactly which methods are used by thieves,
and exactly which methods will actually work best on most, if not all
of the locks out there.

Here are some thoughts:

You should lock your bike in accordance with:
1) Your risk of theft (crime rate in your area, or your personal
paranoia)
2) Your available budget on a locking system.
3) The value of your bicycle.
4) The length of time you will be leaving your bike locked.
*Not necessarily in that order*

Most bike thefts ARE a crime of opportunity. Committed by low level
thieves who carry around bolt cutters, pry bars, and/or a small jack.
**You CAN defend your bike against this type of theft with a locking
system.**

SOME (very few, at least to my knowledge, in chicago) bike thefts are
committed by individuals who specialize in this kind of work, have the
skill, speed, tools, and know-how to steal bikes very quickly. They
usually carry a variety of tools in a van and can steal, pretty much
any bike they want.
**You CANNOT prevent this type of theft with ANY locking system that I
have seen**

Thieves do not pick locks, they break them.

A cordless angle grinder with the right blade can and will cut through
any LOCK/CABLE/CHAIN that I have seen on the market. This can be done
in under five minutes per lock/cable.

So, you can't stop someone with a grinder, you can only slow them down
by using multiple locks.

The best way to lock your bike for MAXIMUM security is to use this
cable with this lock (links below), looping one end of the cable
through your front and back wheels, around the frame, and around
whatever you are locking to. Lock both ends of the cable with the
padlock. They will barely fit into the shackle, but they will fit.
Even more easily if you cut away the plastic covering in one small
section of the eyelets to help with this.

http://www.mul-t-lockusa.com/product...=1938&catid=25

https://www.kryptonitelock.com/produ...=1001&pid=1124

Then use one or more kryptonite U locks (the best you can afford) to
lock the frame and/or wheels in addition to the above lock. This is
deterrence. Even hearty bike thieves will move on to another 'easier'
target when they see this. The more locks that they have to break or
cut through, even with a fast grinder, the better. Opportunistic
thieves won't even look twice before moving on.

Multi lock brand locks MUST be purchased through a locksmith. The
keyways are restricted to individual lockshops and, therefore, cannot
be duplicated, even by another multi lock dealing locksmith. When you
purchase a lock and keys, the key bitting(s) will be recorded by the
locksmith onto a key authorization form. The only people that will
ever be able to get keys to your lock will be the people named on this
list. Period. You will have to return to that same lockshop, with a
valid photo ID, to obtain replacement/extra keys (very handy if you
lose your keys).
The lock cylinders cannot be picked, drilled, or 'bumped' open.
Very secure.

Unless you are in a very low risk area, DO NOT use combination cable
locks. They are too easy to open if you know how, and it is not hard
to find out.

Don't lock your bike in dark, low traffic areas, or parking garages,
if it can be avoided.


With all of that being said, I use the above cable locking method, but
with a kryptonite U lock EVERY time I lock my bike. I will use a
secondary kryptonite U lock on the frame if I will be locking it for
an extended period of time.

I hate bike thieves.
You can't stop them all, but you can stop 90% of them if you just
invest a little money and lock your bike properly every time.

http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=520597

--
A website is a place, where, when you go there, it does everything
possible to distract you, from finding the information you came there
to see.- E.W.

Worth reading: Sheldon Brown's Lock Strategy page:

www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

On Wed, 22 Apr 2009 16:25:35 -0700 (PDT), andmalc
wrote:

Worth reading: Sheldon Brown's Lock Strategy page:

www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

I kept looking at that, thinking that it couldn't work. They'd just
take the frame. But, having taken a look at a bike at a post, it will
work.

I guess, as Sheldon said, cutting through the rear wheel likely is
more trouble that would be worth. It still seems counterintuitive to
shackle the wheel but not the frame, but I think I'll get a mini and
do it. In the case of my bike (a 2000 Trek 7100), the rear wheel is
worth MORE than the frame since I got a nice one to ward off broken
spokes.

Even gone, I'm still learning from SB.