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#91
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 09:53:50 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 12/10/2017 8:01 PM, John B. wrote: On Sun, 10 Dec 2017 12:30:16 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: John B. wrote: On Sat, 09 Dec 2017 19:41:16 -0600, Tim McNamara wrote: On Sat, 9 Dec 2017 10:34:13 +0100, Sepp Ruf wrote: Because you generally want to shield from a flattish \ line of approaching lights, but not shield your view to the sides, the flatter brims work better. We're talking about cycling caps, not baseball caps. A cycling cap bill's curve would shade the center of the field of view while allowing peripheral vision. True. Just use what works best for you, short of Yehuda Moon style. Our beloved champions aren't strict either, at least after a bad (styrofoam) hair day: https://ekz-crosstour.ch/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/RSP_1321-1024x682.jpg Just like the curved cutoff in the awful OculuStvzo engineering sample doesn't work... There's no equivalence between the shape of the brim and the shape of the cutoff. The cutoff is designed to manage outgoing light, keeping it where it is useful and not shining it where it is not. Not functionally equivalent, of course. You did see the video he linked? There are only two choices with a reversed crescent cutoff: Either aim it low enough that it does not glare directly opposing traffic, or aim it high enough to keep the 90 and 270 degree fields of vision for fast curves. black-tinted rear window; auto-dimming mirrors; manure-spreading trailer. I have an auto-dimming mirror in my new car. It verges on useless as it does not dim anywhere near enough. I'd rather have a manual mirror so that I don't have to reach up and point the damned mirror at the ceiling so that I'm not blinded by the vehicle behind me. My wife's small Honda has a manual tab on the bottom of the mirror. Flick it with your finger and the "guy behind"'s lights are focused on the ceiling :-) Still leaves the side mirrors vulnerable. Okay, so the trailer will need to be wide enough to block the view, but not as wide as to require the mounting of extra side mirrors on the Honda. I'm not sure about side mirrors. I have them on my pickup and my wife's little Honda has them But I don't remember ever having a problem with them. I sometimes have the problem, mostly on freeways. My wife even has that problem sitting in the passenger seat. It occurs mostly when truck drivers (pickups, box trucks, tractor-trailer rigs) have high headlights and insist on using high beams. It's more MFFY behavior. Our current car has electrically adjustable side mirrors. If speed differentials are small enough that the problem persists for more than a few seconds, I point the mirrors downward until the offender is out of range. If they pass quickly, I just shade my side mirror with my hand. It might be the way I have the side mirrors aimed on the pickup. With my head in the normal driving position I can see that rear edge of the cargo box on the inside edge of the mirrors, and the rest is road. My wife possibly re-aims the side mirrors if they bother her. At least I've seen her adjust them when she starts the car. Hey! After the saga about building small wheels and the spokes that didn't tighten, you never did divulge your secrets of how to built small wheels with long spokes :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
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#92
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wheel building problems
On 12/11/2017 8:23 PM, John B. wrote:
Hey! After the saga about building small wheels and the spokes that didn't tighten, you never did divulge your secrets of how to built small wheels with long spokes :-) It was a very frustrating process. One of my best friends used to own a bike shop. (BTW, I have other friends who used to own bike shops. Apparently it's a tough way to make a living.) Anyway, he has a Hozan spoke threader. Its dies roll the threads onto spokes. So I borrowed it. (It's still in my basement.) Using extra spokes I had, I experimenting with extending spoke threads a few millimeters, which I figured was all I needed. But I failed again and again, probably many more than 20 tries. I played endlessly with the depth adjustment of the threads. I tried cutting spokes short and starting on the unthreaded portion of the spokes. What I found time after time was a nipple would thread on only about 6 to 8 mm, then bind. I tried several types of nipples, and starting from either end of the nipples. No dice. Looking with super-close-up goggles, then with a small microscope, it seemed that the thread form was not symmetrical, not truly perpendicular to the axis of the spoke. The threads sort of leaned one way, so to speak - but I don't really know if that was the problem. My friend lent me another head for the tool but it did no better. I did trials cranking the thread roller by hand, and many more using an electric drill to do the trials more rapidly. I lubricated using ordinary oil, then cutting fluid. Nothing worked. So I gave up on the proper solution, and went with a kludge. I counterbored the original nipples about 2 mm, and also slid thin washers onto the nipples for a belt and suspenders approach. The wheel tensioned up fine, straight and true. Since the spoke ends are essentially even with the "top" surface of the nipple, the original error was probably no more than a millimeter, whatever caused it. I still suspect a slightly undersized rim. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#93
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wheel building problems
On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 20:55:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 12/11/2017 8:23 PM, John B. wrote: Hey! After the saga about building small wheels and the spokes that didn't tighten, you never did divulge your secrets of how to built small wheels with long spokes :-) It was a very frustrating process. One of my best friends used to own a bike shop. (BTW, I have other friends who used to own bike shops. Apparently it's a tough way to make a living.) Anyway, he has a Hozan spoke threader. Its dies roll the threads onto spokes. So I borrowed it. (It's still in my basement.) Using extra spokes I had, I experimenting with extending spoke threads a few millimeters, which I figured was all I needed. But I failed again and again, probably many more than 20 tries. I played endlessly with the depth adjustment of the threads. I tried cutting spokes short and starting on the unthreaded portion of the spokes. What I found time after time was a nipple would thread on only about 6 to 8 mm, then bind. I tried several types of nipples, and starting from either end of the nipples. No dice. Looking with super-close-up goggles, then with a small microscope, it seemed that the thread form was not symmetrical, not truly perpendicular to the axis of the spoke. The threads sort of leaned one way, so to speak - but I don't really know if that was the problem. My friend lent me another head for the tool but it did no better. I did trials cranking the thread roller by hand, and many more using an electric drill to do the trials more rapidly. I lubricated using ordinary oil, then cutting fluid. Nothing worked. So I gave up on the proper solution, and went with a kludge. I counterbored the original nipples about 2 mm, and also slid thin washers onto the nipples for a belt and suspenders approach. The wheel tensioned up fine, straight and true. Since the spoke ends are essentially even with the "top" surface of the nipple, the original error was probably no more than a millimeter, whatever caused it. I still suspect a slightly undersized rim. I had never seen a Hozan threader although looking on the net it seems pretty common device. I did some looking on Amazon came across the cutting head listed separately. https://tinyurl.com/y8r7sars Looking at the enlarged view it doesn't look like a very precise device. Note the angle of the bottom roller versus the angle (as well as you can see) of the other two. I had some spokes cut and re-threaded in Singapore a couple of years ago and I think that "those guys" used a machine that they got from one of the spoke companies. -- Cheers, John B. |
#94
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wheel building problems
On 12/12/2017 1:53 AM, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 20:55:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/11/2017 8:23 PM, John B. wrote: Hey! After the saga about building small wheels and the spokes that didn't tighten, you never did divulge your secrets of how to built small wheels with long spokes :-) It was a very frustrating process. One of my best friends used to own a bike shop. (BTW, I have other friends who used to own bike shops. Apparently it's a tough way to make a living.) Anyway, he has a Hozan spoke threader. Its dies roll the threads onto spokes. So I borrowed it. (It's still in my basement.) Using extra spokes I had, I experimenting with extending spoke threads a few millimeters, which I figured was all I needed. But I failed again and again, probably many more than 20 tries. I played endlessly with the depth adjustment of the threads. I tried cutting spokes short and starting on the unthreaded portion of the spokes. What I found time after time was a nipple would thread on only about 6 to 8 mm, then bind. I tried several types of nipples, and starting from either end of the nipples. No dice. Looking with super-close-up goggles, then with a small microscope, it seemed that the thread form was not symmetrical, not truly perpendicular to the axis of the spoke. The threads sort of leaned one way, so to speak - but I don't really know if that was the problem. My friend lent me another head for the tool but it did no better. I did trials cranking the thread roller by hand, and many more using an electric drill to do the trials more rapidly. I lubricated using ordinary oil, then cutting fluid. Nothing worked. So I gave up on the proper solution, and went with a kludge. I counterbored the original nipples about 2 mm, and also slid thin washers onto the nipples for a belt and suspenders approach. The wheel tensioned up fine, straight and true. Since the spoke ends are essentially even with the "top" surface of the nipple, the original error was probably no more than a millimeter, whatever caused it. I still suspect a slightly undersized rim. I had never seen a Hozan threader although looking on the net it seems pretty common device. I did some looking on Amazon came across the cutting head listed separately. https://tinyurl.com/y8r7sars Looking at the enlarged view it doesn't look like a very precise device. Note the angle of the bottom roller versus the angle (as well as you can see) of the other two. I had some spokes cut and re-threaded in Singapore a couple of years ago and I think that "those guys" used a machine that they got from one of the spoke companies. My experience with the Cyclo and Hozan is the same as Frank's - inadequate[1]. Phil Wood rolling heads are better made[2] and in a massively overbuilt fixture so thread quality is excellent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDer5HJpbHA skip to 0:55 Precision setup plates allow 12, 13, 14 or 15 gauge spokes. [1] I suspect that this design might be OK for plain carbon steel spokes but moving stainless takes more push than these tools offer. [2] And reversible! After about 30 years, just flip them over. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#95
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wheel building problems
On Tuesday, December 12, 2017 at 6:10:45 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
On 12/12/2017 1:53 AM, John B. wrote: On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 20:55:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/11/2017 8:23 PM, John B. wrote: Hey! After the saga about building small wheels and the spokes that didn't tighten, you never did divulge your secrets of how to built small wheels with long spokes :-) It was a very frustrating process. One of my best friends used to own a bike shop. (BTW, I have other friends who used to own bike shops. Apparently it's a tough way to make a living.) Anyway, he has a Hozan spoke threader. Its dies roll the threads onto spokes. So I borrowed it. (It's still in my basement.) Using extra spokes I had, I experimenting with extending spoke threads a few millimeters, which I figured was all I needed. But I failed again and again, probably many more than 20 tries. I played endlessly with the depth adjustment of the threads. I tried cutting spokes short and starting on the unthreaded portion of the spokes. What I found time after time was a nipple would thread on only about 6 to 8 mm, then bind. I tried several types of nipples, and starting from either end of the nipples. No dice. Looking with super-close-up goggles, then with a small microscope, it seemed that the thread form was not symmetrical, not truly perpendicular to the axis of the spoke. The threads sort of leaned one way, so to speak - but I don't really know if that was the problem. My friend lent me another head for the tool but it did no better. I did trials cranking the thread roller by hand, and many more using an electric drill to do the trials more rapidly. I lubricated using ordinary oil, then cutting fluid. Nothing worked. So I gave up on the proper solution, and went with a kludge. I counterbored the original nipples about 2 mm, and also slid thin washers onto the nipples for a belt and suspenders approach. The wheel tensioned up fine, straight and true. Since the spoke ends are essentially even with the "top" surface of the nipple, the original error was probably no more than a millimeter, whatever caused it. I still suspect a slightly undersized rim. I had never seen a Hozan threader although looking on the net it seems pretty common device. I did some looking on Amazon came across the cutting head listed separately. https://tinyurl.com/y8r7sars Looking at the enlarged view it doesn't look like a very precise device. Note the angle of the bottom roller versus the angle (as well as you can see) of the other two. I had some spokes cut and re-threaded in Singapore a couple of years ago and I think that "those guys" used a machine that they got from one of the spoke companies. My experience with the Cyclo and Hozan is the same as Frank's - inadequate[1]. Phil Wood rolling heads are better made[2] and in a massively overbuilt fixture so thread quality is excellent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDer5HJpbHA skip to 0:55 Precision setup plates allow 12, 13, 14 or 15 gauge spokes. [1] I suspect that this design might be OK for plain carbon steel spokes but moving stainless takes more push than these tools offer. [2] And reversible! After about 30 years, just flip them over. They're on sale. Buy two! https://americancycle.com/product/ph...chine-4292.htm -- Jay Beattie. |
#96
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wheel building problems
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 08:10:39 -0600, AMuzi wrote:
On 12/12/2017 1:53 AM, John B. wrote: On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 20:55:55 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/11/2017 8:23 PM, John B. wrote: Hey! After the saga about building small wheels and the spokes that didn't tighten, you never did divulge your secrets of how to built small wheels with long spokes :-) It was a very frustrating process. One of my best friends used to own a bike shop. (BTW, I have other friends who used to own bike shops. Apparently it's a tough way to make a living.) Anyway, he has a Hozan spoke threader. Its dies roll the threads onto spokes. So I borrowed it. (It's still in my basement.) Using extra spokes I had, I experimenting with extending spoke threads a few millimeters, which I figured was all I needed. But I failed again and again, probably many more than 20 tries. I played endlessly with the depth adjustment of the threads. I tried cutting spokes short and starting on the unthreaded portion of the spokes. What I found time after time was a nipple would thread on only about 6 to 8 mm, then bind. I tried several types of nipples, and starting from either end of the nipples. No dice. Looking with super-close-up goggles, then with a small microscope, it seemed that the thread form was not symmetrical, not truly perpendicular to the axis of the spoke. The threads sort of leaned one way, so to speak - but I don't really know if that was the problem. My friend lent me another head for the tool but it did no better. I did trials cranking the thread roller by hand, and many more using an electric drill to do the trials more rapidly. I lubricated using ordinary oil, then cutting fluid. Nothing worked. So I gave up on the proper solution, and went with a kludge. I counterbored the original nipples about 2 mm, and also slid thin washers onto the nipples for a belt and suspenders approach. The wheel tensioned up fine, straight and true. Since the spoke ends are essentially even with the "top" surface of the nipple, the original error was probably no more than a millimeter, whatever caused it. I still suspect a slightly undersized rim. I had never seen a Hozan threader although looking on the net it seems pretty common device. I did some looking on Amazon came across the cutting head listed separately. https://tinyurl.com/y8r7sars Looking at the enlarged view it doesn't look like a very precise device. Note the angle of the bottom roller versus the angle (as well as you can see) of the other two. I had some spokes cut and re-threaded in Singapore a couple of years ago and I think that "those guys" used a machine that they got from one of the spoke companies. My experience with the Cyclo and Hozan is the same as Frank's - inadequate[1]. Phil Wood rolling heads are better made[2] and in a massively overbuilt fixture so thread quality is excellent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDer5HJpbHA skip to 0:55 Precision setup plates allow 12, 13, 14 or 15 gauge spokes. [1] I suspect that this design might be OK for plain carbon steel spokes but moving stainless takes more push than these tools offer. [2] And reversible! After about 30 years, just flip them over. That was the tool that the "guys in Singapore" used when they made my spokes. It was 18 and 18 rear wheel spokes and one guy was cranking the machine and the other guy was telling me about how he had just "rebuilt" the Huffy Super Sport from some rusty bits to something that looked like it was sitting on the sales shop floor back in 1960-something. Correct color scheme, decals, everything. The spoke maker finished long before the Huffy story was finished. -- Cheers, John B. |
#97
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 2:34:34 PM UTC-8, James wrote:
https://www.bike24.com/p2144878.html -- JS oops forgot to answer questions. The ray trace is from design software called Zemax. Every other ray trace has some red center. This beam is so even that it has early no red anywhere. The Nasa Lunar Resource Prospector development unit has a few Oculus mounted on it in a layout that resulted from trial and error til we made a light field with virtually no variation in the region the robot "sees". The light field dimensions aren't public info so can't say, but you can probably make a rough guess from the picture. The new Roverscape indoor area with synthetic lunar "soil" and "moonrocks" is mores secure than they can get me a clearance for. Latest update is they're moving ahead with their algorithms based on how my lights light up the region for the vehicle's cameras. Maybe once this baby sends back the first pics of the Dark Side (small south polar region) of the moon, an aerospace giant will buy up my patent and I'll finally get to cash in instead of scraping away with a flashlight and bike light industry that doesn't like new guys or technology that would make them change their tooling and infrastructure. |
#98
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On 14/12/17 17:04, Oculus Lights wrote:
On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 2:34:34 PM UTC-8, James wrote: https://www.bike24.com/p2144878.html -- JS oops forgot to answer questions. The ray trace is from design software called Zemax. Every other ray trace has some red center. This beam is so even that it has early no red anywhere. The Nasa Lunar Resource Prospector development unit has a few Oculus mounted on it in a layout that resulted from trial and error til we made a light field with virtually no variation in the region the robot "sees". The light field dimensions aren't public info so can't say, but you can probably make a rough guess from the picture. The new Roverscape indoor area with synthetic lunar "soil" and "moonrocks" is mores secure than they can get me a clearance for. Latest update is they're moving ahead with their algorithms based on how my lights light up the region for the vehicle's cameras. Maybe once this baby sends back the first pics of the Dark Side (small south polar region) of the moon, an aerospace giant will buy up my patent and I'll finally get to cash in instead of scraping away with a flashlight and bike light industry that doesn't like new guys or technology that would make them change their tooling and infrastructure. You could try to reply to the message where I asked these questions. A ray trace projected on to a surface perpendicular to the light source is not representative of how the light will be used in the real world. Hence, your picture is of no practical use. -- JS |
#99
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
James wrote:
On 14/12/17 17:04, Oculus Lights wrote: On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 2:34:34 PM UTC-8, James wrote: https://www.bike24.com/p2144878.html -- JS oops forgot to answer questions. Don't worry, we understand you have been really busy presenting your concepts to Elon Musk and signing preliminary deals with Koito, Valeo, the PRCian space agency, and a very substantial, but undisclosed number industrial giants from extraterrestrial alien civilizations. You could try to reply to the message where I asked these questions. Regarding long-sought answers, someone simply took apart his flashlight and exposed the highly unremarkable "optical concept" behind the hype: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171213/4f0cc1728c44b591d96d4cb59b0c591d.jpg Just in case any of you missed the latest act: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/oculus-lights-1047728-post13456140.html#post13456140 Genius PR! Hey, investors, come back, don't run, you don't understand, this truly was another epic publicity stunt! A ray trace projected on to a surface perpendicular to the light source is not representative of how the light will be used in the real world. Hence, your picture is of no practical use. Well, if his goal is to ride into a wall, it's a perfectly reasonable beam. Gotta be careful though, no red spots permitted on the wall! -- "the judge called Barry the most condescending person he'd ever encountered in his judicial career!" |
#100
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New B&M 100lux headlight.
On 15/12/17 21:58, Sepp Ruf wrote:
James wrote: On 14/12/17 17:04, Oculus Lights wrote: On Tuesday, November 21, 2017 at 2:34:34 PM UTC-8, James wrote: https://www.bike24.com/p2144878.html -- JS oops forgot to answer questions. Don't worry, we understand you have been really busy presenting your concepts to Elon Musk and signing preliminary deals with Koito, Valeo, the PRCian space agency, and a very substantial, but undisclosed number industrial giants from extraterrestrial alien civilizations. You could try to reply to the message where I asked these questions. Regarding long-sought answers, someone simply took apart his flashlight and exposed the highly unremarkable "optical concept" behind the hype: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171213/4f0cc1728c44b591d96d4cb59b0c591d.jpg Just in case any of you missed the latest act: http://forums.mtbr.com/lights-night-riding/oculus-lights-1047728-post13456140.html#post13456140 Genius PR! Hey, investors, come back, don't run, you don't understand, this truly was another epic publicity stunt! A ray trace projected on to a surface perpendicular to the light source is not representative of how the light will be used in the real world. Hence, your picture is of no practical use. Well, if his goal is to ride into a wall, it's a perfectly reasonable beam. Gotta be careful though, no red spots permitted on the wall! ROTFL. That discussion thread was a hilarious read. Hats off to you Sepp for finding it. -- JS |
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