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#1
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Front cracking noise
Hello again,
I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. That hub dynamo is a Shimano DH-3N31, and I was able to open its ball bearings with no issue. In particular, without breaking the phase wire! The right (drive and power output side) bearing locknut was loose, which allowed the corresponding cone to become loose as well, which I think was the cause of the noise, and at some point to tighten itself, causing the later drag. I noticed the right side of the dynamo was distorted, with part of it pushed inside by a bit less than one millimetre. I suppose I must once have caught something between the fork and the hub, that would have applied a pressure against the dynamo and moved the locknut, causing all this trouble. Now, since the dynamo is still working correctly, I think I will use it for a while and monitor it closely before replacing it. These things are not really cheap, especially when you buy them with a prebuilt wheel. I cleaned the ball bearings, greased them and replaced the balls. The left-side ones were clearly damaged, but not broken, and the right-side ones seem intact, but I replaced them nevertheless. One thing to notice with the dynamo hub, compared to a regular hub, is that you cannot remove the axle after just removing the locknuts and cones on either side, or even on both. This is because the dynamo stator is installed on the axle, and it is caught inside the rotor and hub, that forms a cage around it. There is some play though, and when adjusting the cones back, you have to make sure you are in the middle of that play, otherwise you could be forcing the dynamo stator against the side of its cage. The point of contact are supposed to be the balls, and nothing else! Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! -- Tanguy |
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#2
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Front cracking noise
On 2/20/2019 11:26 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Hello again, I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. That hub dynamo is a Shimano DH-3N31, and I was able to open its ball bearings with no issue. In particular, without breaking the phase wire! The right (drive and power output side) bearing locknut was loose, which allowed the corresponding cone to become loose as well, which I think was the cause of the noise, and at some point to tighten itself, causing the later drag. I noticed the right side of the dynamo was distorted, with part of it pushed inside by a bit less than one millimetre. I suppose I must once have caught something between the fork and the hub, that would have applied a pressure against the dynamo and moved the locknut, causing all this trouble. Now, since the dynamo is still working correctly, I think I will use it for a while and monitor it closely before replacing it. These things are not really cheap, especially when you buy them with a prebuilt wheel. I cleaned the ball bearings, greased them and replaced the balls. The left-side ones were clearly damaged, but not broken, and the right-side ones seem intact, but I replaced them nevertheless. One thing to notice with the dynamo hub, compared to a regular hub, is that you cannot remove the axle after just removing the locknuts and cones on either side, or even on both. This is because the dynamo stator is installed on the axle, and it is caught inside the rotor and hub, that forms a cage around it. There is some play though, and when adjusting the cones back, you have to make sure you are in the middle of that play, otherwise you could be forcing the dynamo stator against the side of its cage. The point of contact are supposed to be the balls, and nothing else! Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! Thanks for the report! -- - Frank Krygowski |
#3
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Front cracking noise
On Wednesday, February 20, 2019 at 8:26:57 AM UTC-8, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Hello again, I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. That hub dynamo is a Shimano DH-3N31, and I was able to open its ball bearings with no issue. In particular, without breaking the phase wire! The right (drive and power output side) bearing locknut was loose, which allowed the corresponding cone to become loose as well, which I think was the cause of the noise, and at some point to tighten itself, causing the later drag. I noticed the right side of the dynamo was distorted, with part of it pushed inside by a bit less than one millimetre. I suppose I must once have caught something between the fork and the hub, that would have applied a pressure against the dynamo and moved the locknut, causing all this trouble. Now, since the dynamo is still working correctly, I think I will use it for a while and monitor it closely before replacing it. These things are not really cheap, especially when you buy them with a prebuilt wheel. I cleaned the ball bearings, greased them and replaced the balls. The left-side ones were clearly damaged, but not broken, and the right-side ones seem intact, but I replaced them nevertheless. One thing to notice with the dynamo hub, compared to a regular hub, is that you cannot remove the axle after just removing the locknuts and cones on either side, or even on both. This is because the dynamo stator is installed on the axle, and it is caught inside the rotor and hub, that forms a cage around it. There is some play though, and when adjusting the cones back, you have to make sure you are in the middle of that play, otherwise you could be forcing the dynamo stator against the side of its cage. The point of contact are supposed to be the balls, and nothing else! Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! -- Tanguy If you have any more problems with it let us know how if you would. |
#4
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Front cracking noise
On 2/20/19 5:26 PM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Hello again, I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. snip Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! Useful stuff. Cheers! |
#5
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Front cracking noise
On 2/20/2019 8:26 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Hello again, I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. That hub dynamo is a Shimano DH-3N31, and I was able to open its ball bearings with no issue. In particular, without breaking the phase wire! The right (drive and power output side) bearing locknut was loose, which allowed the corresponding cone to become loose as well, which I think was the cause of the noise, and at some point to tighten itself, causing the later drag. I noticed the right side of the dynamo was distorted, with part of it pushed inside by a bit less than one millimetre. I suppose I must once have caught something between the fork and the hub, that would have applied a pressure against the dynamo and moved the locknut, causing all this trouble. Now, since the dynamo is still working correctly, I think I will use it for a while and monitor it closely before replacing it. These things are not really cheap, especially when you buy them with a prebuilt wheel. I cleaned the ball bearings, greased them and replaced the balls. The left-side ones were clearly damaged, but not broken, and the right-side ones seem intact, but I replaced them nevertheless. One thing to notice with the dynamo hub, compared to a regular hub, is that you cannot remove the axle after just removing the locknuts and cones on either side, or even on both. This is because the dynamo stator is installed on the axle, and it is caught inside the rotor and hub, that forms a cage around it. There is some play though, and when adjusting the cones back, you have to make sure you are in the middle of that play, otherwise you could be forcing the dynamo stator against the side of its cage. The point of contact are supposed to be the balls, and nothing else! Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! Thanks for the information! I have a question, though. Maybe Shimano hubs are fundamentally different from my Shutter Precision PV-8 (if I have the model number right). On my hub, I observe what I assumed was common to all dynamo hubs: Turning the axle by hand one feels a great deal of resistance as the hub almost "snaps" from one stator position to the next, and one feels "push" toward the end of this transition. So when you spin the wheel in the fork, the drag and push average out, and the wheel spins quite freely. So how do you "feel" the cone adjustment in order to adjust them? Just barely remove play, and call it good? I think the SP hubs are cartridge bearings (but I don't know), so the question is probably moot, like so many things on RBT. Mark J. |
#6
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Front cracking noise
On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 12:03:18 PM UTC-8, Mark J. wrote:
On 2/20/2019 8:26 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Hello again, I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. That hub dynamo is a Shimano DH-3N31, and I was able to open its ball bearings with no issue. In particular, without breaking the phase wire! The right (drive and power output side) bearing locknut was loose, which allowed the corresponding cone to become loose as well, which I think was the cause of the noise, and at some point to tighten itself, causing the later drag. I noticed the right side of the dynamo was distorted, with part of it pushed inside by a bit less than one millimetre. I suppose I must once have caught something between the fork and the hub, that would have applied a pressure against the dynamo and moved the locknut, causing all this trouble. Now, since the dynamo is still working correctly, I think I will use it for a while and monitor it closely before replacing it. These things are not really cheap, especially when you buy them with a prebuilt wheel. I cleaned the ball bearings, greased them and replaced the balls. The left-side ones were clearly damaged, but not broken, and the right-side ones seem intact, but I replaced them nevertheless. One thing to notice with the dynamo hub, compared to a regular hub, is that you cannot remove the axle after just removing the locknuts and cones on either side, or even on both. This is because the dynamo stator is installed on the axle, and it is caught inside the rotor and hub, that forms a cage around it. There is some play though, and when adjusting the cones back, you have to make sure you are in the middle of that play, otherwise you could be forcing the dynamo stator against the side of its cage. The point of contact are supposed to be the balls, and nothing else! Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! Thanks for the information! I have a question, though. Maybe Shimano hubs are fundamentally different from my Shutter Precision PV-8 (if I have the model number right). On my hub, I observe what I assumed was common to all dynamo hubs: Turning the axle by hand one feels a great deal of resistance as the hub almost "snaps" from one stator position to the next, and one feels "push" toward the end of this transition. So when you spin the wheel in the fork, the drag and push average out, and the wheel spins quite freely. So how do you "feel" the cone adjustment in order to adjust them? Just barely remove play, and call it good? I think the SP hubs are cartridge bearings (but I don't know), so the question is probably moot, like so many things on RBT. Mark J. One might just adjust according to play -- allow a tiny bit of end play to be taken up by the QR and call it good. Otherwise, you're right, the PV8 (I have the PD8 disc version) spin about as freely as a full pepper mill. -- Jay Beattie. |
#7
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Front cracking noise
On 2/25/2019 2:03 PM, Mark J. wrote:
On 2/20/2019 8:26 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote: Hello again, I have finished repairing my front hub dynamo, that was making a cracking or clicking noise, and that eventually started to produce a high drag against wheel rotation. That hub dynamo is a Shimano DH-3N31, and I was able to open its ball bearings with no issue. In particular, without breaking the phase wire! The right (drive and power output side) bearing locknut was loose, which allowed the corresponding cone to become loose as well, which I think was the cause of the noise, and at some point to tighten itself, causing the later drag. I noticed the right side of the dynamo was distorted, with part of it pushed inside by a bit less than one millimetre. I suppose I must once have caught something between the fork and the hub, that would have applied a pressure against the dynamo and moved the locknut, causing all this trouble. Now, since the dynamo is still working correctly, I think I will use it for a while and monitor it closely before replacing it. These things are not really cheap, especially when you buy them with a prebuilt wheel. I cleaned the ball bearings, greased them and replaced the balls. The left-side ones were clearly damaged, but not broken, and the right-side ones seem intact, but I replaced them nevertheless. One thing to notice with the dynamo hub, compared to a regular hub, is that you cannot remove the axle after just removing the locknuts and cones on either side, or even on both. This is because the dynamo stator is installed on the axle, and it is caught inside the rotor and hub, that forms a cage around it. There is some play though, and when adjusting the cones back, you have to make sure you are in the middle of that play, otherwise you could be forcing the dynamo stator against the side of its cage. The point of contact are supposed to be the balls, and nothing else! Now that I have adjusted the cones and locknuts again, it seems to work just fine. Thanks for all the advice! Thanks for the information! I have a question, though. Maybe Shimano hubs are fundamentally different from my Shutter Precision PV-8 (if I have the model number right). On my hub, I observe what I assumed was common to all dynamo hubs: Turning the axle by hand one feels a great deal of resistance as the hub almost "snaps" from one stator position to the next, and one feels "push" toward the end of this transition. So when you spin the wheel in the fork, the drag and push average out, and the wheel spins quite freely. So how do you "feel" the cone adjustment in order to adjust them? Just barely remove play, and call it good? I think the SP hubs are cartridge bearings (but I don't know), so the question is probably moot, like so many things on RBT. Mark J. For the Sturmey GH6 (loose ball) hub, mount the axle in a vise with adjustable side up. Feel for play at the rim. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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