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#31
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
scotthue;1078831 wrote: Sam: Did you have to use special rim tape after you drilled the rim? If the holes are countersunk and/or deburred after they're drilled, this won't be necessary. If they're not, a dull drill could leave a lot of nasty burrs on the rim, and thick tape would be necessary to avoid flats. -- maestro8 Those are my principles. If you don't like those, I have others. -- Groucho Marx The only way to comprehend what mathematicians mean by Infinity is to contemplate the extent of human stupidity. -- François-Marie Arouet de Voltaire ------------------------------------------------------------------------ maestro8's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7871 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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#32
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
flyer;1088095 wrote: I'll post pictures a bit later. Come on Dave, I want to see it! -- redwelly '*Unicycle.com*' (http://www.unicycle.com) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ redwelly's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/4518 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#33
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
Rowan;1124765 wrote: The original nightriders were anodised black as far as I know. I dunno who it was who thought it would be a good idea to powdercoat them "Stealth white". When I bought my Stealth rim (Nightrider is just the name of the tyres I think) there was a choice of anodised black or powder-coat white - is that not still the case? I went for white because I think it's a nice change from the ubiquitous black, but if I was worried about the weight of some paint () I could have chosen the anodised version. I do agree with you though that a lighter 36" tyre would be good for the road riders - in fact, something nearer bike tyre weight rather than car tyre weight would be nicer for xc as well. At £60 a tyre, though, the longevity of the thicker tyre is a good thing! Rob -- rob.northcott ------------------------------------------------------------------------ rob.northcott's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7436 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#34
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How to drill a nightrider 36 rim?
rob.northcott;1125184 wrote: When I bought my Stealth rim (Nightrider is just the name of the tyres I think) there was a choice of anodised black or powder-coat white - is that not still the case? ... the longevity of the thicker tyre is a good thing! I got confused I meant Stealth rim... You still get the choice but in New Zealand we must sometimes settle for what is in stock. The colour does not really matter but black would be best. Some day's I'd prefer the longevity of my legs, and the thicker tire/rim does not promote longevity uphill. I notice such a big difference every time I change between 28" and 36" of the weight and ability to accelerate and get to top speed and maintain it uphill. One of the biggest advantages of such a heavy tire/rim is the puncture protection. They are not invincible but they last a lot longer than 700c skinnies vs glass. -- Rowan ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Rowan's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3772 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72139 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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