Externally wired Di2

Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.

Op donderdag 10 september 2020 om 23:07:56 UTC+2 schreef :
Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.

Most Titanium and steel bikes bought today and meant to be equipped with Di2 have internal wiring. External wiring is but ugly and I don't understand why someone would do that today. Buy a Di2 specific frame I would say, and don't drill holes in a CF frame that is not meant for Di2. Leave it as it is especially when equipped with a new DA gruppo.

Lou

On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 3:16:11 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Op donderdag 10 september 2020 om 23:07:56 UTC+2 schreef :
Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.
Most Titanium and steel bikes bought today and meant to be equipped with Di2 have internal wiring. External wiring is but ugly and I don't understand why someone would do that today. Buy a Di2 specific frame I would say, and don't drill holes in a CF frame that is not meant for Di2. Leave it as it is especially when equipped with a new DA gruppo.

Lou
"And meant to be equipped" You do realize that most of the titanium bikes and steel bikes out there today were never "meant" to be equipped with Di2? My Redline was externally wired and you couldn't tell it unless you looked closely beneath the bottom bracket.

On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 3:16:11 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op donderdag 10 september 2020 om 23:07:56 UTC+2 schreef :
Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.

Most Titanium and steel bikes bought today and meant to be equipped with Di2 have internal wiring. External wiring is but ugly and I don't understand why someone would do that today. Buy a Di2 specific frame I would say, and don't drill holes in a CF frame that is not meant for Di2. Leave it as it is especially when equipped with a new DA gruppo.

Lou

Buy eTap. Works great according to my son.

Frankly, if I had a frame that did not allow for internal wiring, I'd run cable rather than making my bike look like some Radio Shack project. Why bother -- cables work fine, although I like that little whirr-whine of Di2.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 7:21:10 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 3:16:11 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op donderdag 10 september 2020 om 23:07:56 UTC+2 schreef :
Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.

Most Titanium and steel bikes bought today and meant to be equipped with Di2 have internal wiring. External wiring is but ugly and I don't understand why someone would do that today. Buy a Di2 specific frame I would say, and don't drill holes in a CF frame that is not meant for Di2. Leave it as it is especially when equipped with a new DA gruppo.

Lou
Buy eTap. Works great according to my son.

Frankly, if I had a frame that did not allow for internal wiring, I'd run cable rather than making my bike look like some Radio Shack project. Why bother -- cables work fine, although I like that little whirr-whine of Di2.

-- Jay Beattie.
Well, the great engineering skills of a lawyer shows up.

Hmm. I have a carbon Ridley frame from 2010 or a bit earlier. And Shimano Di2 7970 on it. No internal wiring on my bike. I used red and white electrical tape wrapped around the frame tubes to hold the Di2 cables. Black Di2 cables. Big gray external battery below the water bottle on the downtube. All looks fine to me Probably the biggest looks error is the unused cable holders for the shifters at the top of the downtube. Di2 doesn't use those and you can't just take them off unfortunately.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 10:13:57 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 7:21:10 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 3:16:11 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op donderdag 10 september 2020 om 23:07:56 UTC+2 schreef :
Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.

Most Titanium and steel bikes bought today and meant to be equipped with Di2 have internal wiring. External wiring is but ugly and I don't understand why someone would do that today. Buy a Di2 specific frame I would say, and don't drill holes in a CF frame that is not meant for Di2. Leave it as it is especially when equipped with a new DA gruppo.

Lou
Buy eTap. Works great according to my son.

Frankly, if I had a frame that did not allow for internal wiring, I'd run cable rather than making my bike look like some Radio Shack project. Why bother -- cables work fine, although I like that little whirr-whine of Di2..

-- Jay Beattie.
Well, the great engineering skills of a lawyer shows up.

WTF does engineering have to do with it? And BTW, I will race you assembling a Di2 bike any day of the week. You have a phenomenal amount of problems assembling a plug-and-play system. Mechanical issues like BB replacement and crank selection also seem to take you months. It doesn't appear that your supposed engineering skills have served you very well when it comes to do simple installation and repairs.

I have a Di2 bike; I have STI cable shift bikes. Both work exceptionally well. Why kludge wired electronic shifting on a cable-shift bike? And why, if you were going to install Di2, did you buy a frame with no option for internal wiring? That seems like a bonehead mistake for such a brilliant engineer.

-- Jay Beattie.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 12:19:34 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Hmm. I have a carbon Ridley frame from 2010 or a bit earlier. And Shimano Di2 7970 on it. No internal wiring on my bike. I used red and white electrical tape wrapped around the frame tubes to hold the Di2 cables. Black Di2 cables. Big gray external battery below the water bottle on the downtube. All looks fine to me Probably the biggest looks error is the unused cable holders for the shifters at the top of the downtube. Di2 doesn't use those and you can't just take them off unfortunately.
I think that at that time the controller had to be tied to one of the brake cables.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bop...183080084.html

The Ridley I had was aluminum and had extremely good handling off-road. It simply could not be knocked off of its line.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 12:20:48 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 10:13:57 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 7:21:10 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, September 10, 2020 at 3:16:11 PM UTC-7, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op donderdag 10 september 2020 om 23:07:56 UTC+2 schreef :
Most of the titanium and steel bikes using Di2 have to be externally wired. While this is not a particularly hard procedure, and the external battery is probably superior to the internal one, Choosing the correct length wires is something of a measure, buy and try situation. I would guess that a shop that does much of Di2 would have a stock of wires and enough experience to be able to guess at the correct sizes to begin with. It turned out that I underestimated the length of the under bar junction to the under bottom bracket terminal block and the length of the BB terminal block to the rear derailleur by a little. So I used the downtube wire to go to the rear derailleur It has maybe 10 cm too long but that is fine. I ordered a longer downtube wire and a wire cover kit since I seem to have misplaced the one I already used part of for the Redline that I sold. What do you want to bet that as soon as I get the new one and install it I will find the remainder of the old kit? Being somewhat of an artist I also ordered some special paint that will match the starflake metallic paint on the bike. I don't expect a perfect match but close enough that you wouldn't notice it without close observation. The rear derailleur wire only needs a short length that is hidden beneath the chain stay, so that doesn't need any matching.

Thankfully you only have to wire these bikes once. Unlike cables which are a bear to replace properly all the time this is nothing more than an electrical contact that doesn't require exact adjustment.

And I'm thinking of replacing the Madone almost new Dura Ace manual group with Di2. This will require me to cut holes in the frame So I'm still thinking about it. I didn't do this before because I had the idea that the frame holes were reinforced in the area of these feeds but looking at the Emonda that doesn't seem to be the case. I think they have a template and just use a Dremel. Or I might sell the Madone off and replace it with a disk brake frame.

Most Titanium and steel bikes bought today and meant to be equipped with Di2 have internal wiring. External wiring is but ugly and I don't understand why someone would do that today. Buy a Di2 specific frame I would say, and don't drill holes in a CF frame that is not meant for Di2. Leave it as it is especially when equipped with a new DA gruppo.

Lou
Buy eTap. Works great according to my son.

Frankly, if I had a frame that did not allow for internal wiring, I'd run cable rather than making my bike look like some Radio Shack project. Why bother -- cables work fine, although I like that little whirr-whine of Di2.

-- Jay Beattie.
Well, the great engineering skills of a lawyer shows up.
WTF does engineering have to do with it? And BTW, I will race you assembling a Di2 bike any day of the week. You have a phenomenal amount of problems assembling a plug-and-play system. Mechanical issues like BB replacement and crank selection also seem to take you months. It doesn't appear that your supposed engineering skills have served you very well when it comes to do simple installation and repairs.

I have a Di2 bike; I have STI cable shift bikes. Both work exceptionally well. Why kludge wired electronic shifting on a cable-shift bike? And why, if you were going to install Di2, did you buy a frame with no option for internal wiring? That seems like a bonehead mistake for such a brilliant engineer.

-- Jay Beattie.
When you don't know what you talking about you should make promises your ass can't keep. The only problems with external wiring I had was wire length which has to be pretty close so that you don't have excessive loops in the under bottom bracket terminal block. In interior wiring the wires only have to be long enough. If you assemble one once you can do it in minutes. Also you have to know the wire routing under or over the bottom bracket guard. My Colnago runs all of the wires in a passageway above the bottom brackets and doesn't use a guard of any sort so you have to make sure that they don't interfere with the turning Campy cranks.

By the way Andrew - the 10 speed Colnago Power Torque crankset or whatever its called works absolutely perfectly with the 10 speed rings. I will probably add a chain keeper since it can throw a chain. Though maybe a slight limit adjustment might fix that. I tend to be careful with those sorts of adjustments since you can end up dragging the chain against the derailleur and I can only here that in absolute quiet.

On Friday, September 11, 2020 at 12:19:34 PM UTC-7, wrote:
Hmm. I have a carbon Ridley frame from 2010 or a bit earlier. And Shimano Di2 7970 on it. No internal wiring on my bike. I used red and white electrical tape wrapped around the frame tubes to hold the Di2 cables. Black Di2 cables. Big gray external battery below the water bottle on the downtube. All looks fine to me Probably the biggest looks error is the unused cable holders for the shifters at the top of the downtube. Di2 doesn't use those and you can't just take them off unfortunately.
After one of the comments here I started wondering if I should sell the Madone since it is a top of the line 6.9 - the aero version. The later versions were not aero. So with new manual Dura Ace on it it should probably draw a decent price. Since I have a Colnago Di2, a Trek Emonda Di2 and soon the Lemond Di2, I could probably use the garage space for and the money more for my next property tax payment and be just as well off.