torque wrench issues

On Mon, 1 May 2017 21:14:22 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
.. .
On Mon, 1 May 2017 07:06:39 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



Whenever you are working with galvanized steel it is important that
you take the necessary steps when prepping the metal before welding.
If you have properly prepped your metal before welding, you will help
reduce your exposure to zinc oxide fumes.

The usually suggested preparation for welding or brazing galvanized
materials is to grind all the galvanizing off!

Welding a joint with zinc still on the area would weaken the weld but who
am I to suggest that you're right?

Smokers have very high amounts of cadmium in their bodies. If you've
smoked for 50 years you probably have the maximum allowable amount of
cadmium in your body. You can get cadmium in your body by touching it. The
amount into your plasma is as high as 0.07%. The half-life of cadmium in
the body is about 10 years if memory serves.

But both zinc and cadmium would normally only accumulate to dangerous
levels at a rate that wouldn't harm you until long after you're dead
unless you're a smoker.
Or a careless welder.
Brazing spelter containing cadmium can make you sicker than a dog in
short order if you are breathing the fumes - as can the fumes from
welding galvanized steel. It only takes a few minutes to get you
wretching and puking and aching to the point you almost wish you
could die.

"galvanised" is galvanic protection - which can include any of several toxic
heavy metals.


While yes, galvanizing is a galvanic protection if you go into a store
and ask for "galvanized iron" you get zinc coated steel.

Some people here seem to think it can only mean zinc.

No, "galvanized", in common U.S. usage, does mean zinc coated.

The toxic dose of zinc is really quite large.

On Mon, 1 May 2017 19:25:05 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"John B Slocomb" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 23:14:27 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 22:10:43 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"AMuzi" wrote in message
news On 4/30/2017 3:30 PM, Ian Field wrote:


"AMuzi" wrote in message
news On 4/30/2017 12:01 PM, Ian Field wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 19:53:16 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"John B Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400,
wrote:

On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100,
"Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


wrote in message
...
On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100,
"Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench,
28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in
Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if
that is China or not

It has a locking screw, a torque setting
handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some
English unit I take it?) - it also as a
locking lever on top just like an ordinary
ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and
anti-clockwise.

The torques only work in the
clockwise direction. So if the
locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way,
it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in
the manual it says:

Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo
nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will
damage the ratchet mechanism and the
calibrated settings.

So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use
the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which
would require a left thread? (And it would be
just a long shaft, with the torque not
in effect.)

As for me, I don't plan using it for anything
but as a torque, because I have other, less
expensive ratchets and spanners to do the
everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know
what it means.

It also came with a certificate with data on
the calibration and in the manual it says it
should be recalibrated at least every
12 months.

Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the
rules to the
letter.

Most torque settings I've seen were for dry
threads - any stray
lubricant
and you might even twist the end off at the
correct torque.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
Torque specs vary considerably by application.
Some are given as
clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with
oil - some are
given
cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have
never run across
a
torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that
torqing with "stray
lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the
bolt by twisting
off
the end.
However, that said, most of my wrenching has not
been on bicycles
but
on automobiles and agricultural and construction
equipment which may
be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt"

Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the
end off.

Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the
threads out of alloy
castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down
so far that you can
put
the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the
engine case bolts with
oil
left in the holes is a very good chance of
stripping the threads.

As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory
used to install
fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get
them out without
an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw
before the Japanese
invasion.

The lock washers were very effective where used, and
the Phipips style
bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to
breat them loose
without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved
that problem

I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws
in a Japanese
motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some
Japanese standard that
didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S.
Which probably
didn't help either :-)

That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off
the point of the
screwdriver bit and it fits just right.
The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without
grinding.
Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it)
bolts.
Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated
bolts either -

W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement
news account. So
back to old name.

The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated
fasteners.

The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is
cumulative in the
body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up
fracturing ribs
just by coughing.

In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable
about the 80s. They
didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic
equipment until
RoHS.

AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but
they've more or less
vanished from the shops anyway.

Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling
anything plated with
it!

from Cadmium, A Health Hazard Surface Treatment
C. Rehm
ESG
Einsteinstr. 174
D-81675 Munich, Germany

An object containing cadmium is not especially injurious
to health on
its own. No risk is involved simply by touching it.
A potential hazard occurs, however, when such objects are
processed
and high temperatures are generated.

Cadmium plating rubs off on your hands whenever you handle
cadmium plated parts and assemblies.

Many years ago they even used it on electronic component
leads to prevent oxidation - they used more aggressive
fluxes in those days.

Welding cad plated sheet steel is particularly dangerous -
the cadmium is vapourised and becomes airborne.

Usually the osteoporosis takes decades to start crippling
the sufferer - but I've heard of a repair technician
dropping dead after a couple of years from fumes using low
melting point cadmium based solder. The specific mode of
death wasn't announced.

The Japanese know all about it, they discharged industrial
effluent containing cadmium into heavily fished costal
waters. They even have a name for the disease - itai itai
byo. apparently its the noise sufferers make in their death
throes. As I mentioned previously - bones become so weak and
brittle, you can fracture ribs just by coughing.

Well then avoid it as you wish.

Many of us recognize the difference between metals and
reactive metallic organic compounds.

Zinc rich tablets are popular for symptoms of herpes
simplex and yet no one welds galvanize steel a second time.

Zinc can't be that toxic - its a usual ingredient of baby
powder.

Never heard of any warnings against welding zinc passivated
steel - only know of cadmium plating being very dangerous.

Fumes of burning zinc make your knees go soft as you vomit on the way
down. Don't try this at home.

When I was a kid, I liked throwing zinc batteries on the bonfire to watch
them explode - no such effect was ever observed.

Even one single exhausted battery would have more zinc than a pretty big
sheet of zinc plated steel - and would dwarf the amount of zinc
vapourised
by a weld run.




Whenever you are working with galvanized steel it is important that
you take the necessary steps when prepping the metal before welding.
If you have properly prepped your metal before welding, you will help
reduce your exposure to zinc oxide fumes.

The usually suggested preparation for welding or brazing galvanized
materials is to grind all the galvanizing off!

Genius!!! - you've invented a way to breathe it as dust instead of fumes.

Darwin must be biding his time with you...............................

You seem obsessed with this subject.

But the facts are that the body doesn't absorb all substances in any
form. You can, for example, actually drink metallic mercury with no
damage as the body doesn't absorb it in it's metallic form but as a
vapor or in combination with other chemicals it can prove fatal.

Your body requires iron in order to work correctly but an excess of
iron is termed "hemochromatosis" and can result in life-threatening
conditions, such as liver disease, heart problems and diabetes.

Even water can be deadly. A scarcity, called "dehydration", can cause
death and equally an excess, called "Water intoxication", can also
cause death. This is not uncommon in those with low body mass such as
children under one year old to absorb too much water, especially if
the child is under nine months old.

On 5/1/2017 2:49 PM, Ian Field wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 21:30:36 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote:

Never heard of any warnings against welding zinc passivated steel - only
know of cadmium plating being very dangerous.

You will only weld or braze galvanized steel in a poorly ventilated
space ONCE unless you are REALLY stupid.

I have never become aware of the dire consequences of welding zinc
plated that are being spouted here.

"galvanised" can be plated with *ANY* metal that has a higher galvanic
affinity than the host metal. Including cadmium and various other toxic
heavy metals.

Cadmium poisoning is cumulative and has various routes into the body -
its a long slow painful journey to a Darwin award.

For a few years I worked assembling electronic equipment on cadmium
plated chassis - I've seen with my own eyes the extent to which the
plating rubs off on your hands.

But if you're too stupid to take it from someone who's been there -
Darwin awaits you with outstretched arms.

Can you not see your post's internal inconsistency?

You have multiple people who have given citations as well as related
experiences about welding zinc galvanized steel, but you discount them
saying "I have never become aware [of that problem]."

Yet you insult those who YOU think are "too stupid to take it from
someone who's been there..."

Sheesh.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Mon, 1 May 2017 22:00:31 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/1/2017 2:49 PM, Ian Field wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 21:30:36 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote:

Never heard of any warnings against welding zinc passivated steel - only
know of cadmium plating being very dangerous.

You will only weld or braze galvanized steel in a poorly ventilated
space ONCE unless you are REALLY stupid.

I have never become aware of the dire consequences of welding zinc
plated that are being spouted here.

"galvanised" can be plated with *ANY* metal that has a higher galvanic
affinity than the host metal. Including cadmium and various other toxic
heavy metals.

Cadmium poisoning is cumulative and has various routes into the body -
its a long slow painful journey to a Darwin award.

For a few years I worked assembling electronic equipment on cadmium
plated chassis - I've seen with my own eyes the extent to which the
plating rubs off on your hands.

But if you're too stupid to take it from someone who's been there -
Darwin awaits you with outstretched arms.

Can you not see your post's internal inconsistency?

You have multiple people who have given citations as well as related
experiences about welding zinc galvanized steel, but you discount them
saying "I have never become aware [of that problem]."

Yet you insult those who YOU think are "too stupid to take it from
someone who's been there..."

Sheesh.
Must be the painted cow's twin brother - - -

On Tue, 02 May 2017 08:31:47 +0700, John B Slocomb
wrote:

On Mon, 1 May 2017 21:14:22 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 1 May 2017 07:06:39 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



Whenever you are working with galvanized steel it is important that
you take the necessary steps when prepping the metal before welding.
If you have properly prepped your metal before welding, you will help
reduce your exposure to zinc oxide fumes.

The usually suggested preparation for welding or brazing galvanized
materials is to grind all the galvanizing off!

Welding a joint with zinc still on the area would weaken the weld but who
am I to suggest that you're right?

Smokers have very high amounts of cadmium in their bodies. If you've
smoked for 50 years you probably have the maximum allowable amount of
cadmium in your body. You can get cadmium in your body by touching it. The
amount into your plasma is as high as 0.07%. The half-life of cadmium in
the body is about 10 years if memory serves.

But both zinc and cadmium would normally only accumulate to dangerous
levels at a rate that wouldn't harm you until long after you're dead
unless you're a smoker.
Or a careless welder.
Brazing spelter containing cadmium can make you sicker than a dog in
short order if you are breathing the fumes - as can the fumes from
welding galvanized steel. It only takes a few minutes to get you
wretching and puking and aching to the point you almost wish you
could die.

"galvanised" is galvanic protection - which can include any of several toxic
heavy metals.


While yes, galvanizing is a galvanic protection if you go into a store
and ask for "galvanized iron" you get zinc coated steel.

As an addendum. I am not sure that galvanizing is necessarily a
galvanic protection. I an thinking of the corrugated "galvanized iron"
roofs I see on wooden buildings here.

Unless, of course, there is some sort of galvanic action between
wooden rafters and steel sheeting :-)




Some people here seem to think it can only mean zinc.

No, "galvanized", in common U.S. usage, does mean zinc coated.

The toxic dose of zinc is really quite large.

On Mon, 01 May 2017 22:25:59 -0400, wrote:

On Mon, 1 May 2017 22:00:31 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 5/1/2017 2:49 PM, Ian Field wrote:

wrote:
On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 21:30:36 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote:

Never heard of any warnings against welding zinc passivated steel - only
know of cadmium plating being very dangerous.

You will only weld or braze galvanized steel in a poorly ventilated
space ONCE unless you are REALLY stupid.

I have never become aware of the dire consequences of welding zinc
plated that are being spouted here.

"galvanised" can be plated with *ANY* metal that has a higher galvanic
affinity than the host metal. Including cadmium and various other toxic
heavy metals.

Cadmium poisoning is cumulative and has various routes into the body -
its a long slow painful journey to a Darwin award.

For a few years I worked assembling electronic equipment on cadmium
plated chassis - I've seen with my own eyes the extent to which the
plating rubs off on your hands.

But if you're too stupid to take it from someone who's been there -
Darwin awaits you with outstretched arms.

Can you not see your post's internal inconsistency?

You have multiple people who have given citations as well as related
experiences about welding zinc galvanized steel, but you discount them
saying "I have never become aware [of that problem]."

Yet you insult those who YOU think are "too stupid to take it from
someone who's been there..."

Sheesh.
Must be the painted cow's twin brother - - -

Nah, just another old guy with 20 or 30 years in the trade telling you
that you are full of it.

On Mon, 1 May 2017 19:51:52 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



"John B Slocomb" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 30 Apr 2017 18:01:20 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Apr 2017 19:53:16 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
om...
On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 20:16:22 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"John B Slocomb" wrote in message
news:schtfc5i6qshna502vhg4pv5f918haa426@4ax .com...
On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 22:17:14 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 25 Apr 2017 07:42:21 +0700, John B Slocomb
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 19:51:41 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


wrote in message
news:vmfqfc17u3012cn5jrkkk4r335ol6r5s8a @4ax.com...
On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 22:06:05 +0100, "Benderthe.evilrobot"
wrote:


"Emanuel Berg" wrote in message
...
I finally got the 1/2" torque wrench,
28-210 Nm, not even made in China, but in
Taiwan! Eh... I guess it depends who you ask if
that is China or not

It has a locking screw, a torque setting
handle, a scale (Nm as well as "FT-LB", some
English unit I take it?) - it also as a
locking lever on top just like an ordinary
ratchet, so it can go both ways, clockwise and
anti-clockwise.

The torques only work in the
clockwise direction. So if the
locking (ratchet) lever is set the other way,
it is just a ratchet, right? Well, in
the manual it says:

Note: Never use the torque wrench to undo
nuts, bolts or other fasteners as this will
damage the ratchet mechanism and the
calibrated settings.

So how does that add up? Is it only OK to use
the anti-clockwise pull to insert things, which
would require a left thread? (And it would be
just a long shaft, with the torque not
in effect.)

As for me, I don't plan using it for anything
but as a torque, because I have other, less
expensive ratchets and spanners to do the
everyday stuff. But of course, I'd like to know
what it means.

It also came with a certificate with data on
the calibration and in the manual it says it
should be recalibrated at least every
12 months.

Calibration is irrelevant if you don't follow the rules to the
letter.

Most torque settings I've seen were for dry threads - any stray
lubricant
and you might even twist the end off at the correct torque.


---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
Torque specs vary considerably by application. Some are given as
clean and dry, some are given as lubricated with oil - some are
given
cold, and others hot. That said, I personally have never run
across
a
torque spec that was so "close to the edge" that torqing with
"stray
lubrication" would cause immediate failure of the bolt by
twisting
off
the end.
However, that said, most of my wrenching has not been on
bicycles
but
on automobiles and agricultural and construction equipment which
may
be slightly more "overengineered" or "overbuilt"

Bicycles tend to have less things you can twist the end off.

Its common on motorcycles, but mainly pulling the threads out of
alloy
castings. Its pretty rare to strip an engine down so far that you
can
put
the castings in degreasing plant - torquing the engine case bolts
with
oil
left in the holes is a very good chance of stripping the threads.

As for stripping engine bolts, the Honda factory used to install
fasteners so tight that a normal person couldn't get them out
without
an"impact driver". A tool that I never even saw before the Japanese
invasion.

The lock washers were very effective where used, and the Phipips
style
bolts were incapable of delivering enough torque to breat them loose
without camming out - the Hammer Impact driver solved that problem

I believe I've read that the "Phillips" headed screws in a Japanese
motorcycle are not actually "Phillips" but some Japanese standard
that
didn't quite match the screwdrivers we had in the U.S. Which
probably
didn't help either :-)

That's the *whole* cause - just grind a tiny bit off the point of the
screwdriver bit and it fits just right.
The bits on my Impact driver fit perfectly without grinding.
Note I said Philips "style" (I know, I mis-spelled it) bolts.
Some of the early Jap stuff didn't use Cadmium plated bolts either -

W10 imploded and I had to start over with a replacement news account. So
back to old name.

The japs were the worst of the lot for cadmium plated fasteners.

The very toxic cadmium rubs off on your hands and is cumulative in the
body - it causes such acute osteoporosis; you can end up fracturing ribs
just by coughing.

In the UK - nickel plated fasteners became fashionable about the 80s.
They
didn't do much about cadmium plated chassis in electronic equipment
until
RoHS.

AFAIK: cadmium batteries are exempt from RoHS - but they've more or less
vanished from the shops anyway.

Cadmium is very nasty - wash your hands after handling anything plated
with
it!

from Cadmium, A Health Hazard Surface Treatment
C. Rehm
ESG
Einsteinstr. 174
D-81675 Munich, Germany

An object containing cadmium is not especially injurious to health on
its own. No risk is involved simply by touching it.
A potential hazard occurs, however, when such objects are processed
and high temperatures are generated.

Cadmium plating rubs off on your hands whenever you handle cadmium plated
parts and assemblies.

Many years ago they even used it on electronic component leads to prevent
oxidation - they used more aggressive fluxes in those days.

Welding cad plated sheet steel is particularly dangerous - the cadmium is
vapourised and becomes airborne.

Usually the osteoporosis takes decades to start crippling the sufferer -
but
I've heard of a repair technician dropping dead after a couple of years
from
fumes using low melting point cadmium based solder. The specific mode of
death wasn't announced.

The Japanese know all about it, they discharged industrial effluent
containing cadmium into heavily fished costal waters. They even have a
name
for the disease - itai itai byo. apparently its the noise sufferers make
in
their death throes. As I mentioned previously - bones become so weak and
brittle, you can fracture ribs just by coughing.

I hate to disillusion you but the Japanese word "itai" can be
translated into English as "ouch" and is commonly used in everyday
conversation.

Secondly, the cadmium poisoning you are referring to was specific to
mining in Toyama Prefecture. Not to industry per si.

Sophistry doesn't magically make you right.

You mean that part about "apparently its the noise sufferers make in
their death throes"?

As I explained the Japanese word "itai" is commonly used as English
speakers might use "ouch". Do you think those poor Japanese dying in
agony are saying "ouch - ouch".

My authority for this? The nearly 10 years I spent in Japan as a
member of the Air Force, and, I might add, my first wife, who was a
Japanese citizen.

On Mon, 1 May 2017 19:49:36 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:

a great deal deleted


know of cadmium plating being very dangerous.
You will only weld or braze galvanized steel in a poorly ventilated
space ONCE unless you are REALLY stupid.

I have never become aware of the dire consequences of welding zinc plated
that are being spouted here.

"galvanised" can be plated with *ANY* metal that has a higher galvanic
affinity than the host metal. Including cadmium and various other toxic
heavy metals.


I can only assume that you are not from a country where English is the
common language as the definition of "galvanized" in the U.S. (and
likely in other English speaking countries) is, and I quote, "Covered
with Zinc".


Cadmium poisoning is cumulative and has various routes into the body - its a
long slow painful journey to a Darwin award.


Essentially all poisoning is cumulative as even in the case of very
virulent poisons like cyanide - used in case hardening steel - a very
tiny amount will not kill you.

For a few years I worked assembling electronic equipment on cadmium plated
chassis - I've seen with my own eyes the extent to which the plating rubs
off on your hands.

But if you're too stupid to take it from someone who's been there - Darwin
awaits you with outstretched arms.

Well, I've been there. I worked with cadmium plated fasteners for 20
years in the Air Force and when I retired I worked another 20 years
with heavy equipment where most of the fasteners are also cad plated.

Now tell us about your experiences.

On 5/2/2017 4:31 AM, John B Slocomb wrote:
On Tue, 02 May 2017 08:31:47 +0700, John B Slocomb
wrote:

On Mon, 1 May 2017 21:14:22 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:



wrote in message
...
On Mon, 1 May 2017 07:06:39 -0700 (PDT), wrote:



Whenever you are working with galvanized steel it is important that
you take the necessary steps when prepping the metal before welding.
If you have properly prepped your metal before welding, you will help
reduce your exposure to zinc oxide fumes.

The usually suggested preparation for welding or brazing galvanized
materials is to grind all the galvanizing off!

Welding a joint with zinc still on the area would weaken the weld but who
am I to suggest that you're right?

Smokers have very high amounts of cadmium in their bodies. If you've
smoked for 50 years you probably have the maximum allowable amount of
cadmium in your body. You can get cadmium in your body by touching it. The
amount into your plasma is as high as 0.07%. The half-life of cadmium in
the body is about 10 years if memory serves.

But both zinc and cadmium would normally only accumulate to dangerous
levels at a rate that wouldn't harm you until long after you're dead
unless you're a smoker.
Or a careless welder.
Brazing spelter containing cadmium can make you sicker than a dog in
short order if you are breathing the fumes - as can the fumes from
welding galvanized steel. It only takes a few minutes to get you
wretching and puking and aching to the point you almost wish you
could die.

"galvanised" is galvanic protection - which can include any of several toxic
heavy metals.


While yes, galvanizing is a galvanic protection if you go into a store
and ask for "galvanized iron" you get zinc coated steel.

As an addendum. I am not sure that galvanizing is necessarily a
galvanic protection. I an thinking of the corrugated "galvanized iron"
roofs I see on wooden buildings here.

Unless, of course, there is some sort of galvanic action between
wooden rafters and steel sheeting :-)




Some people here seem to think it can only mean zinc.

No, "galvanized", in common U.S. usage, does mean zinc coated.

The toxic dose of zinc is really quite large.

Galvanized steel has a sacrificial zinc layer with more
potential than the steel. The zinc will eventually be
consumed, at which point the steel starts to rust.

The term doesn't indicate its use but rather the electric
process to apply the zinc from solution to a metallic layer
on the steel. Most modern zinc coated steel products are hot
dip, not actually electroplated.

Fasteners are commonly tumble-plated because hot dip
thickness interferes with class of thread fit. Many
fasteners are zinc chromate now with a blue or yellow tint
depending on post-plating heat treatment.

The toxic dose of zinc is really quite large.

Actually a _fatal_ dose is quite large. A toxic dose can be
small depending on absorption rate, as with breathing
burning zinc fumes.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
On Monday, May 1, 2017 at 4:14:24 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:

"galvanised" is galvanic protection - which can include any of several
toxic
heavy metals.

Some people here seem to think it can only mean zinc.

In the U.S. "galvanize" means to coat steel or iron with zinc. (Alternate
meaning: to spur into action.)

It may be that British usage is different, I suppose. But I don't find
evidence
of that.

The British usage means to plate with galvanic protection.