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#1
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nuts that won't come off
Often the situation is like this. There is
a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head. However when you rotate the nut the bolt rotates as well. And to hold it with a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern. To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible either as the whole thing just rotates in the grip working off the rusty layer. Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose that way. Is this what you usually do? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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#2
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nuts that won't come off
WIRE brush exposed threads CLEAN
add penetrating oil .. .PCBlaster soak coupla days heat with heat gun or propane torch ..... use aluminum foil protect surfaces HOLD NUT TURN BOLT...just wiggle back n forth also possible cooling bolt head with dry ice while heat and after nut. vertically cutting the nut in half works goo.gl/vO2Cuq |
#3
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nuts that won't come off
On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 6:55:43 AM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Often the situation is like this. There is a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head. However when you rotate the nut the bolt rotates as well. And to hold it with a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern. To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible either as the whole thing just rotates in the grip working off the rusty layer. Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose that way. Is this what you usually do? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 My nuts are attached with a scrotum and it is my fondest with they not come loose. More on the subject - you can use a drill to drill out the Phillips head clear to the threaded portion. Then you can use a properly sized punch to break off the small amount that will no doubt still be attached. In some applications there is insufficient room to pull the entire screw out from the nut end so you hacksaw the nut off after you achieve sufficient clearance. And yes it's a pain in the ass but allowing screws to rust in place should never have occurred. |
#4
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nuts that won't come off
And yes it's a pain in the ass but allowing
screws to rust in place should never have occurred. It happens every day. I suppose it is just reality. Especially at the fender stays. But I think even when rusty it should be able to come off if it was only a bolt instead of a Phillips so you could get a good grip! Hacksaw I'd say even more pain than drilling. Or as much, at least. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#5
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nuts that won't come off
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: Often the situation is like this. There is a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head. However when you rotate the nut the bolt rotates as well. And to hold it with a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern. To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible either as the whole thing just rotates in the grip working off the rusty layer. Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose that way. Is this what you usually do? Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work |
#6
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nuts that won't come off
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover"
doesn't work .... how does that work? -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#7
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nuts that won't come off
On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 12:02:39 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work http://www.panamericantool.com/screw...FUW2wAodOkIE5Q -- Andrew Chaplin SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO |
#8
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nuts that won't come off
On Thursday, May 11, 2017 at 12:02:39 PM UTC-4, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Yes, if my "stripped head screw remover" doesn't work ... how does that work? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRGcuGK-POs -- Andrew Chaplin SIT MIHI GLADIUS SICUT SANCTO MARTINO |
#9
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nuts that won't come off
On 5/11/2017 9:55 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Often the situation is like this. There is a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head. However when you rotate the nut the bolt rotates as well. And to hold it with a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern. To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible either as the whole thing just rotates in the grip working off the rusty layer. Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose that way. Is this what you usually do? We have products called Liquid Wrench and Blaster that work far better than most other penetrant oils. Phillips screw heads are troublesome in the situation you describe. I've sometimes used a Dremel abrasive cutter to cut a deep slot in a Phillips head so I could use a bladed screwdriver. It's much stronger. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#10
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nuts that won't come off
On Thu, 11 May 2017 15:55:40 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: Often the situation is like this. There is a very rusty bolt with a Phillips head. However when you rotate the nut the bolt rotates as well. And to hold it with a screwdriver just destroys the star pattern. To hold it with a pair of pliers isn't possible either as the whole thing just rotates in the grip working off the rusty layer. Spraying WD-50/5-56 to no avail. I would like to replace those with M5x16s. So far I have drilled right thru the bolt and nut to dispose that way. Is this what you usually do? No. What I do depends on the situation. On the shopping list of bolt extraction methods a - Drill it out. - Drill and screw extractor. - Nut splitter. - Grind off the head with a die grinder or Dremel tool. - Cut a slot with a Dremel cutoff disc. - Chemical attack. - PB Blaster. - Reverse current electrolysis in 15% sulfuric acid. This eats steel but leaves aluminum intact. - Boil in alum (hydrated potassium aluminium sulfate) and water. - Propane torch to expand the steel and loosen the rust line. - Penetrating solvent (50/50 acetone and ATF). - Ultrasonic scaler to break loose the rust. - Cutting torch to remove nut or head. - Long cheater bar and impact socket until it breaks. - Beat on it with a hammer until it breaks. I've used all of these at one time or other with the usual variations in results. Much depends on the condition of the bolt, access to the bolt, what needs to be preserved, time, where the work is being done, value, etc. In the past, I favored the various brute force methods resulting in breaking the bolt. Acetone and ATF seems to work as well or better and has is currently my favorite method. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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