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#21
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$500 to improve my bike
On 24 May, 04:10, " wrote:
On May 22, 3:59*pm, winikoff wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: *1.) better, lighter wheels * * * * * * * * * * *2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Ribbing, hogwash, etc. etc. along with some actual responses. Aren't you glad you... asked? You didn't say what kind of wheels you have, or how heavy you are. Nor the main use for the bike. Old, beat up wheels or fairly new, serviceable? (following advice given here by experts) Stock hubs, 105 or Ultegra according to budget, Velocity Aero rim front, Aero OC on the rear. Butted spokes (maybe thinner on the front), with actual gauge and spoke count (and cross pattern) (Crossed spokes are good.) chosen with regard for rider weight. Doesn't make a lot of difference with aero rims. 15g suits most. anyway. Brass nipples, a nice new cassette of your choice, with new chain too. Local handbuilt; I think you can do that with careful shopping for around $500. Then the wheels are covered unless you're racing and like, want to win and stuff (hello Carl). --D-y |
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#22
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$500 to improve my bike
On May 24, 4:36*am, thirty-six wrote:
On 24 May, 04:10, " wrote: On May 22, 3:59*pm, winikoff wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: *1.) better, lighter wheels * * * * * * * * * * *2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Ribbing, hogwash, etc. etc. along with some actual responses. Aren't you glad you... asked? You didn't say what kind of wheels you have, or how heavy you are. Nor the main use for the bike. Old, beat up wheels or fairly new, serviceable? (following advice given here by experts) Stock hubs, 105 or Ultegra according to budget, Velocity Aero rim front, Aero OC on the rear. Butted spokes (maybe thinner on the front), with actual gauge and spoke count (and cross pattern) (Crossed spokes are good.) I'm more comfortable with crossed patterns, too, but there are proprietary radial front wheels and cross/radial rears out there that are giving excellent service. One Campy set in particular; model escapes me at the moment due at least partly to dis-interest in spending that much money on a set of wheels when I can have handbuilts. chosen with regard for rider weight. Doesn't make a lot of difference with aero rims. 15g suits most. anyway. We're doing custom here g. Part of the feeling of light & responsive, don't you know. I'm not light so I like 14g butted in back, 15g butted in front even though I know 15's would be just fine, probably. --D-y |
#23
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$500 to improve my bike
On 24 May, 13:05, " wrote:
On May 24, 4:36*am, thirty-six wrote: On 24 May, 04:10, " wrote: On May 22, 3:59*pm, winikoff wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: *1.) better, lighter wheels * * * * * * * * * * *2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Ribbing, hogwash, etc. etc. along with some actual responses. Aren't you glad you... asked? You didn't say what kind of wheels you have, or how heavy you are. Nor the main use for the bike. Old, beat up wheels or fairly new, serviceable? (following advice given here by experts) Stock hubs, 105 or Ultegra according to budget, Velocity Aero rim front, Aero OC on the rear. Butted spokes (maybe thinner on the front), with actual gauge and spoke count (and cross pattern) (Crossed spokes are good.) I'm more comfortable with crossed patterns, too, but there are proprietary radial front wheels and cross/radial rears out there that are giving excellent service. With deep section hoops. A nice shallow section rim will maintain track and be relatively forgiving over rough road when cross laced (in the proper manner) and spoke tension adjusted for best response. A much nicer ride over rough roads than stiff wheel of which may be constructed without bracing the spokes. The lack of bracing is a small economy in assembly. It is a retrograde step in wheelbuilding sold on it's USP. Paint them pink if you want them different. One Campy set in particular; model escapes me at the moment due at least partly to dis-interest in spending that much money on a set of wheels when I can have handbuilts. chosen with regard for rider weight. Doesn't make a lot of difference with aero rims. 15g suits most. anyway. We're doing custom here g. Part of the feeling of light & responsive, don't you know. I'm not light so I like 14g butted in back, 15g butted in front even though I know 15's would be just fine, probably. I really CBA with it all. Price rules in my eyes. As long as the gauge isn't too thin an acceptable wheel can be made into a fine and robust wheel with a little spoke line modification and tailoring of spoke adjustment to conditions. 15swg in 'poor' galvanised (when they can be had) just seem to be the appropriate strength to resist spoke rip out caused by interference of twigs yet will snap given forces that would otherwise ditch the rider if they had been stronger. I had 36x 15/17 galvanised Berg's and these were perfectly acceptable while they lasted for 30k miles+ (fatigue got the rear in the end). Today, I would be happy with the same gauge (and strength) on the rear wheel (with a 28 32 or 36 count) despite being a couple of stone heavier. I would probably temper my off-road usage though. |
#24
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$500 to improve my bike
On May 24, 7:52*am, thirty-six wrote:
On 24 May, 13:05, " wrote: On May 24, 4:36*am, thirty-six wrote: On 24 May, 04:10, " wrote: On May 22, 3:59*pm, winikoff wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: *1.) better, lighter wheels * * * * * * * * * * *2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Ribbing, hogwash, etc. etc. along with some actual responses. Aren't you glad you... asked? You didn't say what kind of wheels you have, or how heavy you are. Nor the main use for the bike. Old, beat up wheels or fairly new, serviceable? (following advice given here by experts) Stock hubs, 105 or Ultegra according to budget, Velocity Aero rim front, Aero OC on the rear. Butted spokes (maybe thinner on the front), with actual gauge and spoke count (and cross pattern) (Crossed spokes are good.) I'm more comfortable with crossed patterns, too, but there are proprietary radial front wheels and cross/radial rears out there that are giving excellent service. With deep section hoops. *A nice shallow section rim will maintain track and be relatively forgiving over rough road when cross laced (in the proper manner) and spoke tension adjusted for best response. *A much nicer ride over rough roads than stiff wheel of which may be constructed without bracing the spokes. *The lack of bracing is a small economy in assembly. *It is a retrograde step in wheelbuilding sold on it's USP. *Paint them pink if you want them different. One Campy set in particular; model escapes me at the moment due at least partly to dis-interest in spending that much money on a set of wheels when I can have handbuilts. chosen with regard for rider weight. Doesn't make a lot of difference with aero rims. 15g suits most. anyway. We're doing custom here g. Part of the feeling of light & responsive, don't you know. I'm not light so I like 14g butted in back, 15g butted in front even though I know 15's would be just fine, probably. I really CBA with it all. *Price rules in my eyes. * As long as the gauge isn't too thin an acceptable wheel can be made into a fine and robust wheel with a little spoke line modification and tailoring of spoke adjustment to conditions. *15swg in 'poor' galvanised (when they can be had) just seem to be the appropriate strength to resist spoke rip out caused by interference of twigs yet will snap given forces that would otherwise ditch the rider if they had been stronger. *I had 36x 15/17 galvanised Berg's and these were perfectly acceptable while they lasted for 30k miles+ (fatigue got the rear in the end). *Today, I would be happy with the same gauge (and strength) on the rear wheel (with a 28 32 or 36 count) despite being a couple of stone heavier. *I would probably temper my off-road usage though. I'll find out which of those Campy wheels are favored in my cohort here. They're not deep section-- which some regard as a fatal flaw, of course-- and although our rural roads have improved smoothness as housing development goes further and further into the country, there's still a fair amount of lumpy stuff around. Yes, cost is always a factor and I've used galvanized with good results but the stainless ones are much prettier and stay that way easier. You're CBA by claim only, it appears g. That's not a bad thing. "Benefit of others' experience" around here, to the max. --D-y |
#25
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$500 to improve my bike
thirty-six wrote, On 5/22/2010 5:18 PM:
On 22 May, 22:09, Dan wrote: On May 22, 1:59 pm, wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: 1.) better, lighter wheels 2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Pump up the tires. Oil the chain and axles. Yep, oiling the chain can transform the feel of a bike under power. Don't oil he chain! You may go too fast and loose control of the bike. -- Paul D Oosterhout I work for SAIC (but I don't speak for SAIC) |
#27
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$500 to improve my bike
On 22 May, 22:18, thirty-six wrote:
On 22 May, 22:09, Dan O wrote: On May 22, 1:59 pm, winikoff wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: *1.) better, lighter wheels * * * * * * * * * * *2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Pump up the tires. *Oil the chain and axles. Yep, oiling the chain can transform the feel of a bike under power. and the pedals if you have a suitable oiling point. |
#28
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$500 to improve my bike
On May 24, 11:59 am, thirty-six wrote:
On 22 May, 22:18, thirty-six wrote: On 22 May, 22:09, Dan O wrote: On May 22, 1:59 pm, winikoff wrote: I'm getting conflicting advice. My Cannondale aluminium framed bike is feeling neither quick or responsive but the frame is just the right size. I'd like to upgrade. Two options: 1.) better, lighter wheels 2.) upgrade from Shimano 105 to Ultegra. Suggestions, advice, opinions wanted. Pump up the tires. Oil the chain and axles. Yep, oiling the chain can transform the feel of a bike under power. and the pedals if you have a suitable oiling point. Yes - especially the axles. |
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