#21
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
On 27/04/18 10:14, John B. wrote:
I would be a bit apprehensive about heating any hydrocarbon over an open flame.... after all their most important property is that they burn. So does most cooking oil. The interesting bit is the flashpoint. Motor oil seems fairly high. 420-485F = 215C. Similar for paraffin wax at 250C. Food oil is a bit higher at 315C But keep in mind, you usually see smoke before fire. If the solution is smoking hot, turn off the heat source. Or use a thermometer to monitor the temperature and keep it at or below 150C to be safe. -- JS |
Ads |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
Frank Krygowski, 2018-04-26 17:50+0200:
The other common advice with this method: Don't heat the wax-oil mix indoors over an open flame. Supposedly the vapors are flammable and any resulting fire can be fierce and difficult to extinguish. So your gas kitchen stove is out. I already fought such a fire, due to the negligence of a friend that was melting wax to make some torchs. It was on an electric kitchen stove, but he left if unattended for so long that the was started to boil, and the vapor autoignited! It made a flame of about one meter, which I managed to shut off by simply covering it with a metal lid, and waiting for the wax to cool down. You clearly do not want that to happen in your kitchen, and it is useful to know that it can happen even with no external flame. -- Tanguy |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
Tanguy Ortolo, 2018-04-26 10:46+0200:
Great, I have to try this! With some adaptation to enhance the wife acceptance factor, because I expect some trouble if I use a kitchen pot for such a mechanic work. :-D In fact, I think I will use a glass jar initially meant for jam, both as a double boiler and to store afterwards. The glass will make the melting slower of course, but it will resist the heat and it has a lid. I am already using a jar full of white gas to clean the chain, so that would just be another jar with a different label. Now I wonder, after I have done my mixture and deep-waxed the chain, I could add some solvent to keep that liquid, and use that later to lubricate the chain without removing it, could I not? Once applied, can I expect the solvent to evaporate, leaving only the paraffin wax and oil mixture? I will try that on something else anyway, preparing a small amount of that and leaving it on something metallic to see the result after a couple of hours. -- Tanguy |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
On 4/24/2018 2:06 AM, Tanguy Ortolo wrote:
Dear cyclists, After years using wet lubes in all conditions (currently, a specific chain oil with PTFE from 3in1 http://www.3-en-un.fr/produit/lubrifiant-chaines-et-cables-250ml/), and being used to seing my chain getting very dirty, I have just learnt that I may avoid this by using dry lube instead. Actually, I have heard of one specific product, the Squirt dry lube http://www.squirtlube.com/our-products/. It is about twice more expensive than the lubricant I am currently using, but it is supposed to reduce cleaning work, and if it does make the chain cleaner, it may as well reduce its wear and extend its life. So, have any of you tried that lubricant, or any other dry one? Would you recommend it rather than wet lubes? My most important usage is a daily commuting through suburb streets and forest paths (in all weather conditions, therfore quite muddy when it rains, but now that summer is coming, it is going to be rather dry). I recall when I was in my teens and read somewhere about molybdenum disulfide being a great dry lubricant for bicycle chains. But it had the same issue as most dry lubricants, you can't get them inside the chain where they're needed, it just makes a mess on the outside. It was difficult to find at the time, but one distributor sold me a single can. Hot wax at least can get inside the rollers and sleeves, but once it cools and hardens it is quickly displaced. That's why all the experts advise against hot wax. It causes all sorts of problems. Of course some people mix the wax with some kind of oil to ensure that there is some actual lubricant inside, but they could just leave out the wax and they'd be just as well off. But for some people. recreational chain cleaning and lubing is a hobby, so if it make them happy then there's no harm in messing with pots, pans, double boilers, etc. Whatever lubricant you use, be sure that it can penetrate inside. Foaming chain lubes for non-O ring chains are the best at lubricating, but of course you'll have to wipe the excess off the outside of the chain after you apply it. |
#25
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 16:41:54 +1000, James
wrote: On 27/04/18 10:14, John B. wrote: I would be a bit apprehensive about heating any hydrocarbon over an open flame.... after all their most important property is that they burn. So does most cooking oil. The interesting bit is the flashpoint. Motor oil seems fairly high. 420-485F = 215C. Similar for paraffin wax at 250C. Food oil is a bit higher at 315C But keep in mind, you usually see smoke before fire. If the solution is smoking hot, turn off the heat source. Or use a thermometer to monitor the temperature and keep it at or below 150C to be safe. I use a Chinese made electric "Wok". I let the pot melt the wax and cycle through at least one thermostat cycle and then drop in the chain and leave it for two cycles. By this time the chain is at approximately the same temperature as the liquid wax. I then remove the chain from the wax and "hang it up to dry" until it reaches ambient temperatures and then reinstall it. When the chain is first handled after waxing it is slightly stiff proving that the wax has penetrated into the inner regions of the chain. As for those that assert that the wax is squeezed out of the chain I can only comment that I took a couple of links apart on a waxed chain after use and the wax was not squeezed out of the links. It was still there. -- Cheers, John B. |
#26
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
On 4/27/2018 6:29 PM, sms wrote:
Hot wax at least can get inside the rollers and sleeves, but once it cools and hardens it is quickly displaced. That's why all the experts advise against hot wax. It causes all sorts of problems. sigh Mr. Scharf AKA "sms" never tires of spreading misinformation. See https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/ne...formula-36424/ http://www.velonews.com/2013/03/bike...ith-wax_279148 There are other sources I could quote or link. But anyone new to this group should understand, Scharf's definition of "expert" is: "someone who happens to agree with Scharf." -- - Frank Krygowski |
#27
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
On Fri, 27 Apr 2018 23:25:52 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 4/27/2018 6:29 PM, sms wrote: Hot wax at least can get inside the rollers and sleeves, but once it cools and hardens it is quickly displaced. That's why all the experts advise against hot wax. It causes all sorts of problems. sigh Mr. Scharf AKA "sms" never tires of spreading misinformation. See https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/ne...formula-36424/ http://www.velonews.com/2013/03/bike...ith-wax_279148 There are other sources I could quote or link. But anyone new to this group should understand, Scharf's definition of "expert" is: "someone who happens to agree with Scharf." Well he is a politician now and isn't that what politicians do? Make loud, positive, comments with the assumption that if they talk loud enough someone will listen. -- Cheers, John B. |
#28
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
On Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 5:25:55 AM UTC+2, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/27/2018 6:29 PM, sms wrote: Hot wax at least can get inside the rollers and sleeves, but once it cools and hardens it is quickly displaced. That's why all the experts advise against hot wax. It causes all sorts of problems. sigh Mr. Scharf AKA "sms" never tires of spreading misinformation. See https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/ne...formula-36424/ http://www.velonews.com/2013/03/bike...ith-wax_279148 There are other sources I could quote or link. But anyone new to this group should understand, Scharf's definition of "expert" is: "someone who happens to agree with Scharf." -- - Frank Krygowski Stop, stop it is getting into a religion discussion already. Lou |
#30
|
|||
|
|||
Dry lube?
wrote:
On Saturday, April 28, 2018 at 5:25:55 AM UTC+2, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 4/27/2018 6:29 PM, sms wrote: Hot wax at least can get inside the rollers and sleeves, but once it cools and hardens it is quickly displaced. That's why all the experts advise against hot wax. It causes all sorts of problems. sigh Mr. Scharf AKA "sms" never tires of spreading misinformation. See https://www.bikeradar.com/us/road/ne...formula-36424/ http://www.velonews.com/2013/03/bike...ith-wax_279148 There are other sources I could quote or link. But anyone new to this group should understand, Scharf's definition of "expert" is: "someone who happens to agree with Scharf." -- - Frank Krygowski Stop, stop it is getting into a religion discussion already. Lou Oh yeah?! Well my God's chain lasts longer than your God's chain. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
To Lube Or Not To Lube Shifter Cables That is the Question! | [email protected] | Techniques | 3 | June 11th 06 01:24 AM |
To Lube Or Not To Lube Shifter Cables That is the Question! | MykalCrooks | Techniques | 1 | June 9th 06 06:48 AM |
To Lube Or Not To Lube Shifter Cables That is the Question! | Chris M | Techniques | 2 | June 9th 06 01:30 AM |
To Lube Or Not To Lube Shifter Cables That is the Question! | Qui si parla Campagnolo | Techniques | 0 | June 8th 06 09:05 PM |
To Lube Or Not To Lube Shifter Cables That is the Question! | [email protected] | Techniques | 0 | June 8th 06 08:50 PM |