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#11
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Crankshaft end tapers.
AMuzi wrote:
On 6/26/2020 10:57 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly.* But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right.* Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly?* No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?* I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? There are two common sections of the standard crank taper and they do not fit each other: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/3SPINDLE.JPG Your Ofmega cranks require the rightmost format. What you bought is shown center. (also, your original was asymmetric so now either your chainline is askew or the left crank is vary far outboard or both) Your Ofmega crank formerly used the most common extractor, 22x1mm which are cheap and ubiquitous. (the other sizes 23.0 and 23.35mm are obsolete and wouldn't start in your crank anyway. No one who has those tools would have lent it to you)* Your current format is 'stripped' in that the threads are missing. Next time seat the tool fully in the crank arm on clean threads before attempting removal. Once you acquire the correct spindle, there's no reason not to install that damaged arm, just note that future removal may be destructive.* If there's a competent shop near you a TA oversize extractor may be fitted but that may be more expensive than a replacement arm (many other brands interchange, Campagnolo, Sugino Mity, SR Royal, original New Dura Ace #7400, Sugino 75, Miche, Zeus, etc. Not Shimano current products not Sugino XD not made in china) People carp and bitch about mouting cranks on dry tapers or wet but whichever version of heresy you follow, lubricate your fastener regardless and torque to 35nm. I did find some original parts on eBay, but they were quite expensive. The missus is continually threatening to get a new bike, and I thought the Shimano crank (especially being sealed) was a more satisfactory option for the price. She does not get attached to old things like I do. The original problem was that the crank had been left unmaintained for decades (ever since she bought it as a girl, really). One day, I tried to ride it to see if I could work out the cause of a noise she was complaining about, and felt a lot of movement in the crank. After taking up the slack, the lock ring was no longer able to be fitted, since there was not enough thread for it to bite onto. While the cups were okay, the cones were quite pitted, so I did not think that replacing the bearings would suffice. Maybe it's possible to fit a ring 'behind' the cup to move it out again? Anyway, it seems like I will need to do some more precise measuring of the old crank bits (which I have cleaned and kept for reference). |
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#12
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Crankshaft end tapers.
Tosspot wrote:
On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper?Â* I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly.Â* But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right.Â* Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly?Â* No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?Â* I Â*had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into.Â* Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Welcome to JIS vs ISO.Â* Chuck in the towel and move to JIS.Â* I fought it for a few years, I didn't win -( Hm. Well, I am a bit of an old fuddy-duddy. I will now need to find out what JIS is. Working on old motorbikes, it's even taken me a long time to get used to metrication. If it wasn't for having to fix the car every now and then, I would never have had to. |
#13
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On Saturday, 27 June 2020 07:49:50 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Tosspot wrote: On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper?Â* I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly.Â* But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right.Â* Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly?Â* No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?Â* I Â*had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into.Â* Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Welcome to JIS vs ISO.Â* Chuck in the towel and move to JIS.Â* I fought it for a few years, I didn't win -( Hm. Well, I am a bit of an old fuddy-duddy. I will now need to find out what JIS is. Working on old motorbikes, it's even taken me a long time to get used to metrication. If it wasn't for having to fix the car every now and then, I would never have had to. Read the two links that I posted after your first post in this thread. Cheers |
#14
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Crankshaft end tapers.
Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Saturday, 27 June 2020 07:49:50 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Tosspot wrote: On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper?Â* I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly.Â* But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right.Â* Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly?Â* No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?Â* I Â*had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into.Â* Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Welcome to JIS vs ISO.Â* Chuck in the towel and move to JIS.Â* I fought it for a few years, I didn't win -( Hm. Well, I am a bit of an old fuddy-duddy. I will now need to find out what JIS is. Working on old motorbikes, it's even taken me a long time to get used to metrication. If it wasn't for having to fix the car every now and then, I would never have had to. Read the two links that I posted after your first post in this thread. Cheers Well, this bit is certainly relevant for me: "There are no modern bottom brackets that work with old Ofmega/Avocet cranks." What we have here is Ofmega, so it looks like I will need to get NOS parts from somewhere. |
#15
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Crankshaft end tapers.
Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
AMuzi wrote: On 6/26/2020 10:57 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly.* But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right.* Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly?* No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?* I had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? There are two common sections of the standard crank taper and they do not fit each other: http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/3SPINDLE.JPG Your Ofmega cranks require the rightmost format. What you bought is shown center. (also, your original was asymmetric so now either your chainline is askew or the left crank is vary far outboard or both) Your Ofmega crank formerly used the most common extractor, 22x1mm which are cheap and ubiquitous. (the other sizes 23.0 and 23.35mm are obsolete and wouldn't start in your crank anyway. No one who has those tools would have lent it to you)* Your current format is 'stripped' in that the threads are missing. Next time seat the tool fully in the crank arm on clean threads before attempting removal. Once you acquire the correct spindle, there's no reason not to install that damaged arm, just note that future removal may be destructive. If there's a competent shop near you a TA oversize extractor may be fitted but that may be more expensive than a replacement arm (many other brands interchange, Campagnolo, Sugino Mity, SR Royal, original New Dura Ace #7400, Sugino 75, Miche, Zeus, etc. Not Shimano current products not Sugino XD not made in china) People carp and bitch about mouting cranks on dry tapers or wet but whichever version of heresy you follow, lubricate your fastener regardless and torque to 35nm. I did find some original parts on eBay, but they were quite expensive. The missus is continually threatening to get a new bike, and I thought the Shimano crank (especially being sealed) was a more satisfactory option for the price.* She does not get attached to old things like I do. The original problem was that the crank had been left unmaintained for decades (ever since she bought it as a girl, really).* One day, I tried to ride it to see if I could work out the cause of a noise she was complaining about, and felt a lot of movement in the crank.* After taking up the slack, the lock ring was no longer able to be fitted, since there was not enough thread for it to bite onto.* While the cups were okay, the cones were quite pitted, so I did not think that replacing the bearings would suffice.* Maybe it's possible to fit a ring 'behind' the cup to move it out again? Anyway, it seems like I will need to do some more precise measuring of the old crank bits (which I have cleaned and kept for reference). Actually, I 'misremembered' the bit about the locking ring. The problem was not that there was not enough thread - it was simply that it was damaged and I couldn't start it on the thread again. I still have the old one, and (looking at it on a flat surface) it is quite bent. Maybe if I can get a new locking ring, and some new bearing sets, it will be adequate? |
#16
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On 6/27/2020 7:08 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, 27 June 2020 07:49:50 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Tosspot wrote: On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper? I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly. But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right. Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly? No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily? I  had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into. Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Welcome to JIS vs ISO. Chuck in the towel and move to JIS. I fought it for a few years, I didn't win -( Hm. Well, I am a bit of an old fuddy-duddy. I will now need to find out what JIS is. Working on old motorbikes, it's even taken me a long time to get used to metrication. If it wasn't for having to fix the car every now and then, I would never have had to. Read the two links that I posted after your first post in this thread. Cheers Well, this bit is certainly relevant for me: "There are no modern bottom brackets that work with old Ofmega/Avocet cranks." What we have here is Ofmega, so it looks like I will need to get NOS parts from somewhere. Phil Wood still produces their classic Phil #2 USA made crank bearing assembly for that application, same as 1971 and as current as this morning: http://www.yellowjersey.org/WFDJH9.JPG -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#17
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Crankshaft end tapers.
AMuzi wrote:
On 6/27/2020 7:08 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Saturday, 27 June 2020 07:49:50 UTC-4, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Tosspot wrote: On 26/06/2020 17:57, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Is it possible that there are more than one kind of taper?Â* I recently had to replace the bottom bracket bearings on the missus' Italian bike. I had to get one a little wider (70mm, I think) and of smaller diameter than most; but I got a Shimano one that fitted correctly.Â* But since then, the LH pedal bolt has tended to slacken slowly, and the crank makes an embarrassing creaking noise int time with the pedalling effort oscillating from left to right.Â* Is it possible that the Ofmega pedals fitted to it are not fitting the taper correctly?Â* No play can be felt by hand, and they are still almost impossible to remove without lots of unpleasant hammering with a tapered car balljoint splitter. Speaking of which, is there a tool that can get pedals off easily?Â* I *Â had a tool that screwed into the side of the pedal, but instead of pulling the pedal off, it just pulled out all the alloy thread that it was supposed to fit into.Â* Again, is that because the Ofmega pedals have a different thread there? Welcome to JIS vs ISO.Â* Chuck in the towel and move to JIS.Â* I fought it for a few years, I didn't win -( Hm. Well, I am a bit of an old fuddy-duddy.* I will now need to find out what JIS is.* Working on old motorbikes, it's even taken me a long time to get used to metrication.* If it wasn't for having to fix the car every now and then, I would never have had to. Read the two links that I posted after your first post in this thread. Cheers Well, this bit is certainly relevant for me: "There are no modern bottom brackets that work with old Ofmega/Avocet cranks." What we have here is Ofmega, so it looks like I will need to get NOS parts from somewhere. Phil Wood still produces their classic Phil #2 USA made crank bearing assembly for that application, same as 1971 and as current as this morning: http://www.yellowjersey.org/WFDJH9.JPG Thanks. If I'm to do this properly, I'll have to look for things like that. I thought I was lucky to find the Shimano thing that fitted, but it seems to have had unintended consequences. |
#18
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On 6/27/2020 9:55 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 6/27/2020 7:08 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Well, this bit is certainly relevant for me: "There are no modern bottom brackets that work with old Ofmega/Avocet cranks." What we have here is Ofmega, so it looks like I will need to get NOS parts from somewhere. Phil Wood still produces their classic Phil #2 USA made crank bearing assembly for that application, same as 1971 and as current as this morning: http://www.yellowjersey.org/WFDJH9.JPG Do I remember correctly that Phil bottom brackets require a unique tool? I own one of the tools, although I've never owned a Phil bottom bracket. I think I got it for free when a bike shop closed down. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#19
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On 6/27/2020 3:26 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 6/27/2020 9:55 AM, AMuzi wrote: On 6/27/2020 7:08 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Well, this bit is certainly relevant for me: "There are no modern bottom brackets that work with old Ofmega/Avocet cranks." What we have here is Ofmega, so it looks like I will need to get NOS parts from somewhere. Phil Wood still produces their classic Phil #2 USA made crank bearing assembly for that application, same as 1971 and as current as this morning: http://www.yellowjersey.org/WFDJH9.JPG Do I remember correctly that Phil bottom brackets require a unique tool? I own one of the tools, although I've never owned a Phil bottom bracket. I think I got it for free when a bike shop closed down. Phil spline BB tool is shown in that snapshot with the RH mounting ring (note red band for reverse thread). There are two versions of that tool: https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/p...iant=552719525 -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#20
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Crankshaft end tapers.
On 6/27/2020 4:55 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 6/27/2020 3:26 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 6/27/2020 9:55 AM, AMuzi wrote: On 6/27/2020 7:08 AM, Dan S. MacAbre wrote: Well, this bit is certainly relevant for me: "There are no modern bottom brackets that work with old Ofmega/Avocet cranks." What we have here is Ofmega, so it looks like I will need to get NOS parts from somewhere. Phil Wood still produces their classic Phil #2 USA made crank bearing assembly for that application, same as 1971 and as current as this morning: http://www.yellowjersey.org/WFDJH9.JPG Do I remember correctly that Phil bottom brackets require a unique tool? I own one of the tools, although I've never owned a Phil bottom bracket. I think I got it for free when a bike shop closed down. Phil spline BB tool is shown in that snapshot with the RH mounting ring (note red band for reverse thread). There are two versions of that tool: https://phil-wood-co.myshopify.com/p...iant=552719525 I've got the long handled one. -- - Frank Krygowski |
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