Rigidly attached pedals to a bicycle wheel?

On 1/27/2011 5:09 PM, John Doe wrote:
[...]
It is to be used for a push stick for in-line skating. You can see
a demonstration video on the Internet or YouTube called "roller
cycle".[...]

Something like this?
http://www.gadgetmadness.com/archives/roller_cycle.jpg

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

John Doe wrote:
AMuzi am yellowjersey.org wrote:

Chalo wrote:

So keep in mind that bicycle forks work because we don't push
against them, and unicycle forks work because they can't have
any real bending load placed on them in use.

Exactly. See also giraffe unicycle breakage.

Also see the giraffe unicycle mounting videos on YouTube.

It is to be used for a push stick for in-line skating. You can see
a demonstration video on the Internet or YouTube called "roller
cycle". Their "grass" version video is outrageous. The user pushes
with his feet, that is silly, they are trying to show that you can
get exercise. Your heart gets plenty of exercise, it is a thrill.
Mine must be electric, it cannot be a noisy gas powered version. I
built one with SLA batteries that was much too heavy, it broke
twice.

A unicycle should be nearly perfect for the frame. The only thing
I won't use is the pedals. If possible, I will make a wraparound
body/leg attachment at the seat so that holding onto the push
stick is unnecessary. Otherwise, the seat will be removed and a
steer horn piece of aluminum tubing will be put in its place, like
sitting on handlebars (like the roller cycle video). I'm going to
attach a high-voltage/quality cordless drill body to one side, and
its battery to the other side (for balance). The controller will
be on the handlebar.

Looking at the unicycle pictures... The fork connection to the
axle uses two heavy-duty bolts, that is exactly what is needed for
mounting the drill, to keep the drill from spinning. If the
pressure on the fork is too much, the drill clutch pressure can be
reduced. The force on the spokes will probably be no more than
usual unicycling, and there will be no other bending pressure on
the forks or on the seat post.


Odd facet of humans, we're endlessly variant.
Not my sort of thing but hey YMMV.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

=?UTF-8?B?VMK6bSBTaGVybcKqbuKEoiDCsF/CsA==?=
" wrote:

The smaller front wheel provides more heel clearance while
turning at low speeds, allowing for a shorter pedal boom and
better weight distribution.

There are lots of applications for wheels.

One bad example of using a small front wheel just for the
aerodynamic looks is the (probably failed) oddball in-line skate
called a "LandRoller".

http://www.landroller.com/

That one does several things wrong. The only reason the front
wheel is small is to give it aerodynamic looks. Unlike real
in-line skates, it has only two wheels in line. That makes the sin
of using a small front wheel even worse. The design of an in-line
skate has in line wheels partly in order to simulate one huge
wheel when going over potholes. That is a big advantage over only
two wheels, it makes for a smooth stable ride with little chance
of dipping the front wheel into a small pothole and crashing.

Here is another in-line skate example that could use an oversized
front wheel.

http://www.terrablades.com/

There is no reason to have all the wheels the same large size. The
only wheel that matters for rough for off-road terrain is the
front wheel. Making the trailing wheels small would provide a
lower and better center of balance.

I use my own version of an in-line skate with an oversized front
wheel, regularly, and it works great for street skating. It is
going to be even better combined with a durable push stick.

=?UTF-8?B?VMK6bSBTaGVybcKqbuKEoiDCsF/CsA==?=
" wrote:

On 1/27/2011 5:09 PM, John Doe wrote:
[...]
It is to be used for a push stick for in-line skating. You can
see a demonstration video on the Internet or YouTube called
"roller cycle".[...]

Something like this?
http://www.gadgetmadness.com/archives/roller_cycle.jpg

Yeah, and there is a video of that on YouTube. He is using
out-of-production Rollerblade brand off-road skates called
"Coyotes". If you watch very closely, you can see him almost lose
it at one point after hitting something. And the stroking is just
silly, the device is outrageous fun and useful for street skating
without stroking. That is the whole idea for using a push stick
anyway, to avoid having to leg push. They just don't want to seem
un-macho. But in fact the push stick does not remove any of the
macho (to anyone who has actually used it), it just adds fun and
excitement. They use a noisy gas motor. I am sure it can be done
just fine with a lightweight and durable electric motor. And that
makes it more sidewalk-legal. Maybe NiMH would work, but
lithium-ion is probably affordable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKC5UjQXhFE

On 1/27/2011 8:03 PM, John Doe wrote:
=?UTF-8?B?VMK6bSBTaGVybcKqbuKEoiDCsF/CsA==?=
" wrote:

The smaller front wheel provides more heel clearance while
turning at low speeds, allowing for a shorter pedal boom and
better weight distribution.

There are lots of applications for wheels.

One bad example of using a small front wheel just for the
aerodynamic looks is the (probably failed) oddball in-line skate
called a "LandRoller".

http://www.landroller.com/

That one does several things wrong. The only reason the front
wheel is small is to give it aerodynamic looks. Unlike real
in-line skates, it has only two wheels in line. That makes the sin
of using a small front wheel even worse. The design of an in-line
skate has in line wheels partly in order to simulate one huge
wheel when going over potholes. That is a big advantage over only
two wheels, it makes for a smooth stable ride with little chance
of dipping the front wheel into a small pothole and crashing.
[...]

Here is an example of a small [1] front wheel offering several
advantages:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/19704682@N08/sets/72157619269124601/.

[1] ISO 305-mm.

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

John Doe wrote:

It is to be used for a push stick for in-line skating.
[...]
A unicycle should be nearly perfect for the frame. The only thing
I won't use is the pedals. If possible, I will make a wraparound
body/leg attachment at the seat so that holding onto the push
stick is unnecessary. Otherwise, the seat will be removed and a
steer horn piece of aluminum tubing will be put in its place, like
sitting on handlebars (like the roller cycle video). I'm going to
attach a high-voltage/quality cordless drill body to one side, and
its battery to the other side (for balance). The controller will
be on the handlebar.

If you don't need pedals, then why not just use an extended bicycle
fork with a BMX rear wheel (or something like that) and drive the
wheel with a chain? That way you'd get gearing options and all the
parts would be cheaper and more readily available.

Chalo

Chalo chalo.colina gmail.com wrote:

John Doe wrote:

It is to be used for a push stick for in-line skating. [...]
A unicycle should be nearly perfect for the frame. The only
thing I won't use is the pedals. If possible, I will make a
wraparound body/leg attachment at the seat so that holding onto
the push stick is unnecessary. Otherwise, the seat will be
removed and a steer horn piece of aluminum tubing will be put
in its place, like sitting on handlebars (like the roller cycle
video). I'm going to attach a high-voltage/quality cordless
drill body to one side, and its battery to the other side (for
balance). The controller will be on the handlebar.

If you don't need pedals, then why not just use an extended
bicycle fork with a BMX rear wheel (or something like that) and
drive the wheel with a chain? That way you'd get gearing
options and all the parts would be cheaper and more readily
available.

The unicycle shipped for $93.41. Of course the wheel and tire will
be used. The variable length fork will be useful. The seat might
even be used. The axle is the killer, exactly what is needed here.
The only thing that won't be used is the pedals.

I will get gearing options with the cordless drill. A drill also
includes clutch slippage settings. Given cordless drill gearing, a
12 inch instead of 16 inch wheel might be better, but it is cheap
enough to find out. Unfortunately, apparently decent-quality
unicycles probably do not come with small 12 inch wheels. Then
again, 16 inch clearance is good for going over curbs at an angle
without smacking the drill casing on concrete.

The only real problem will be connecting the drill to the fork. I
have put lots of thought and money into various methods for this
project. If the unicycle frame works, it looks like the easiest to
build and lightest weight solution for an in-line skating push
stick. I mean really, contrast it to the monster gas powered
"roller cycle" or even an electric hub motor. Battery life looks
all important, with the benefit a drill's snap-in batteries.

I am thinking lithium ion is totally unnecessary, since drill
manufacturers are using the technology for lightening the weight
of the drill, not for increasing amp hours. The small difference
in weight between lithium ion and NiMH or NiCad is insignificant
for this application.

The method probably could even be used for a bike pusher, with a
36 V cordless drill (Bosch or DeWalt). Might need to be careful
with torque on the fork, though. Or maybe the fork can be replaced
with a sturdier handmade version.





--
Thanks to the replies.











Chalo

The method probably could even be used for a bike pusher

Then again, maybe not. A small free wheel in front of the unicycle
wheel will be useful for coasting. That requires tilting/rocking
the pusher forward, and that is something a bicycle pusher is
unable to do.

Ack! Apparently Ted Bennett had the unicycle answer for me here in
2006.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.b...402038de85bba?
)

But I was sifting through lots of information at the time, and
mostly dismissed the idea of using a cordless drill connected
directly to an axle because of its lack of free wheeling.




--
Just giving credit where credit is due, assuming things go well.

On Jan 27, 1:15*am, John Doe wrote:
I guess the most common example of a rigidly attached will would be a
tricycle? What I might be looking for is like what is used for a
unicycle. The axle needs to be rigidly attached to the wheel, and the
frame should be attached to bearings on the axle.

Any thoughts, ideas, and especially links to online USA merchants,
would be appreciated, thanks.

Just saw this today www.innercitybikes.com