Hollowtech II Tools and 7800 Chainset

Thanks for all the info guys.

I've fitted the cranks and ordered a torque wrench. I won't ride the
bike till I've checked the torque on the pinch bolts.

I do use a more lightweight torque wrench for thngs like stems and bar
bolts. Previously for things like cranks I have just tightened the
bolts to as tight as I can, but not so tight I can't get them off again
(have never fitted a hollowtec II crank before).

It is quite interesting (to me anyway) that Shimano supply torque
settings on virtually everything, even when it is clear that they don't
expect that people will always use a torque wrench.

For example: when fitting the cranks, you get a spanner to fit the BB.
A torque value is supplied, but clearly the user will use the supplied
spanner. Similarly the plastic wheel used to attach the left crank,
looks like it is designed for hand-tight torque values. I am guessing
Shimano sell versions of these tools to pro mechanics that can be used
with a torque wrench.

Anyway, you can tell they really mean it when they place a warning
sticker on the cranks with a torque value. I think you'd be crazy to
think you know better.

John

On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 00:29:55 -0500, "Phil, Squid-in-Training"
wrote:

He's right about this one, though. A customer had a right-hand crank
(flailing in the wind) attached to his shoe recently.

Is it possible to overtorque this one, then? Speaking as 'gorilla hands'
Janssen, I rarely undertorque. Except when the torque needed to support my
weight and the bolt tensile strength are fairly close (or, for that
matter, bolt tensile strength is lower than that required for my
weight..).

Jasper

In article
.com,
"Qui si parla Campagnolo" wrote:

wrote:
Bill Sornson wrote:
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:
Bill Sornson wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:


What's 'included' is the wrench to put the cups in but the BB cups
are not included with the crank, like any crank. What is not
included is a torque wrench for the pinch bolts, something that is
essential. ^^^^^^^^^^^^
^^^^^^^^

Here we go.
eg

He's right about this one, though. A customer had a right-hand crank
(flailing in the wind) attached to his shoe recently.

Well, see, it's my (not strongly held) contention that using a torque wrench
more often than not results in LESS-tight bolts than more.

And not using a torque wrench results in more OVER tightened and
stripped bolts than using one. OVER tight is just as bad as LESS
tight. Over tight front derailleur clamp bolt, crushed seat tube on
light frames. Maybe ruined frame. Over tight threadless stem clamp
and stripped aluminum threads in the stem. New stem. Over tight seat
tube seatpost bolt and stripped seat tube clamp. Particularly bad if
you have a welded in place one like steel frames use. Mickey Mouse
repair to make it work.


Then again, I'm
a ham-fisted over-tightener. (Still, my cranks AIN'T comin' loose, for
sure!)

After consulting with me, Sheldon agrees :-P

Yep, I'm just a guy that has no philosophical objection to grabbing the
thing that sits there, next to all the other tools. I just see what the
recommended value its and do that...easy.

Somebody quoted recently or gave a URL to the different
methods for achieving precise and accurate retention
forces with threaded fasteners. A torque wrench is better
than hand gauging by a skilled practitioner, but not by a
lot. Other methods are very much better than a torque
wrench. Remember that a torque wrench is not a license to
abandon your attention to the job at hand.

--
Michael Press

Jasper Janssen wrote:
Is it possible to overtorque this one [Hollowtech II pinch bolts], then?

I think I might have over-torqued my Ultegra 6600 crank's pinch bolts:
I've now got about 5 or so lines on each side of the crank at the thin
part of the arm where the metal surrounds the spindle. Stretch marks?
;-) So far no problems in use, but time will tell...