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#1
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Chainring Orientation
After soaking my chain in White Spirit and getting it squeaky clean I got to
work on cleaning the grimy sprockets and chainrings. Only after I had removed the chainring did I realise that these days chainrings are not rotationally symmetrical -- I assume the two adjacent teeth that appear as if they have been cut short are there to allow the chain to move in and engage the chainring more easily. There are two pairs of these teeth, diametrically opposed, but they only appear on the big chainring. Why only on the big chainring? Is it because that is where the derailer is going to be at it's limit and therefore less effective at forcing it onto the ring? What orientation do I want these special teeth in, in relation to the cranks? 0 and 180 degrees offset from the cranks so that they appear at the top of the chainring when the cranks are at 6/12 o'clock with minimal force being applied? Another chainring question: There appears to be at least a few mm of lateral wobble in the big and middle chainrings, visible when I spin the cranks quickly and focus on the chainrings against the background. Is this normal? Can anything be done to corret it? I believe it was like this when I bought the bike and the LBS didn't seem to think too much of it when I pointed it out. Dani |
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#2
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Chainring Orientation
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:34:42 +0000 (UTC), asqui
wrote: There are two pairs of these teeth, diametrically opposed, but they only appear on the big chainring. Why only on the big chainring? Is it because that is where the derailer going to be at it's limit and therefore less effective at forcing it onto the ring? Imagine shifting from big ring to small: Chain falls off big ring, lands on smal.. Now imagine shifting from small to big: Chain must climb to big ring. The chain could use a little help, so the gaps created by the smaller teeth result in some grabby action on the chain. Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, mechanic, lawyer, or police officer. I could be wrong. What orientation do I want these special teeth in, in relation to the cranks? 0 and 180 degrees offset from the cranks so that they appear at top of the chainring when the cranks are at 6/12 o'clock with minimal being applied? Probably not a concern; there may be some offset related to something else that matters, though. Another chainring question: There appears to be at least a few mm of wobble in the big and middle chainrings, visible when I spin the cranks quickly and focus on the chainrings against the background. Is this normal? Yes, it's normal in so far as lots of people probably never even notice, let alone repair it. Can anything be done to corret it? I believe it was like this when I bought the bike and the LBS didn't seem to think too much of it when I pointed it out. Read this: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/straighten_chw.html Dani -- Rick Onanian |
#3
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Chainring Orientation
Rick Onanian wrote:
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:34:42 +0000 (UTC), asqui wrote: There are two pairs of these teeth, diametrically opposed, but they only appear on the big chainring. Why only on the big chainring? Is it because that is where the derailer going to be at it's limit and therefore less effective at forcing it onto the ring? Imagine shifting from big ring to small: Chain falls off big ring, lands on smal.. Now imagine shifting from small to big: Chain must climb to big ring. The chain could use a little help, so the gaps created by the smaller teeth result in some grabby action on the chain. Disclaimer: I am not an engineer, mechanic, lawyer, or police officer. I could be wrong. Sorry, I forgot to make it clear that I have a skanky touring bike with a triple chainring, so really my question is doesn't the same thing apply for when you are changing from granny to middle. What orientation do I want these special teeth in, in relation to the cranks? 0 and 180 degrees offset from the cranks so that they appear at top of the chainring when the cranks are at 6/12 o'clock with minimal being applied? Probably not a concern; there may be some offset related to something else that matters, though. What do you mean? Another chainring question: There appears to be at least a few mm of wobble in the big and middle chainrings, visible when I spin the cranks quickly and focus on the chainrings against the background. Is this normal? Yes, it's normal in so far as lots of people probably never even notice, let alone repair it. Oh, that's comforting. Can anything be done to corret it? I believe it was like this when I bought the bike and the LBS didn't seem to think too much of it when I pointed it out. Read this: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/straighten_chw.html Damn! And I thought I had read everything there was to read on that site! Thanks for your help. Dani |
#4
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Chainring Orientation
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:34:42 +0000 (UTC), "asqui"
may have said: There are two pairs of these teeth, diametrically opposed, but they only appear on the big chainring. If you had three chain rings, there would be some on the middle one as well. Why only on the big chainring? Is it because that is where the derailer is going to be at it's limit and therefore less effective at forcing it onto the ring? As the der shoves the chain over, those clipped teeth (and, on some rings, the little nubs on the side of the ring) help to get the chain started on to the ring when shifting. As another poster pointed out, going down to the small ring, it simply drops in place. What orientation do I want these special teeth in, in relation to the cranks? 0 and 180 degrees offset from the cranks so that they appear at the top of the chainring when the cranks are at 6/12 o'clock with minimal force being applied? This would be right on target. That's where Shimano put them on the cranksets of theirs in my possession. Another chainring question: There appears to be at least a few mm of lateral wobble in the big and middle chainrings, visible when I spin the cranks quickly and focus on the chainrings against the background. Is this normal? Can anything be done to corret it? I believe it was like this when I bought the bike and the LBS didn't seem to think too much of it when I pointed it out. The importance of this may be minimal; if you have no problem with the chain doing unwanted things under hard pedalling, it's likely that it can be safely ignored. If you have a torque wrench, you might check the tightness of the crank arm retaining bolt or nut. -- My email address is antispammed; pull WEEDS if replying via e-mail. Yes, I have a killfile. If I don't respond to something, it's also possible that I'm busy. |
#5
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Chainring Orientation
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:36:51 +0000 (UTC), asqui
wrote: Sorry, I forgot to make it clear that I have a skanky touring bike with a triple chainring, so really my question is doesn't the same thing apply for when you are changing from granny to middle. Maybe, but there's less tension on the chain then, so maybe that's why it's not as important. Now I'm just grasping at straws! Probably not a concern; there may be some offset related to something else that matters, though. What do you mean? I just mean that I don't see that it would matter much how they line up with the crank arms, but maybe they have to line up with something else (I'd bet there's a mark on the middle ring or some such). Read this: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/straighten_chw.html Damn! And I thought I had read everything there was to read on that site! That link was really the only very useful information _I_ had for you in the reply. Thanks for your help. Dani -- Rick Onanian |
#6
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Chainring Orientation
asqui wrote:
others have answered most of the rest of your questions... .... What orientation do I want these special teeth in, in relation to the cranks? 0 and 180 degrees offset from the cranks so that they appear at the top of the chainring when the cranks are at 6/12 o'clock with minimal force being applied? The cogs should have a tab sticking down in one of the cut-outs. This tab should be aligned with the crank arm (Shimano). Others may be the same or may be marked in another way. It _does_ make a difference in shifting. Another chainring question: There appears to be at least a few mm of lateral wobble in the big and middle chainrings, visible when I spin the cranks quickly and focus on the chainrings against the background. Is this normal? Can anything be done to corret it? I believe it was like this when I bought the bike and the LBS didn't seem to think too much of it when I pointed it out. Mine don't have this. I'd take a look at Sheldon's site (as others have suggested). Bottom line is: do they shift reliably or ghost shift under power. If they shift reliably, I'd leave it be for now . David |
#7
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Chainring Orientation
if that's not up to spec, you could trash the crank arm. On a couple
of occasions, I've run across setups where I was never able to get the damthing to stop rubbing in some particular gear combination or condition, but most of the bikes I deal with are, for lack of a less diplomatic description, crummy. Yours should be able to work without rubbing. It's almost always a problem with the FD forward-aft alignment. Also, use your barrel adjusters on your shifters while riding (if MTB). -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
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