Noise from new Sunrace cassette

On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:12:22 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 13:26, Duane wrote:
On 26/11/2018 4:18 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 12:28:11 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, November 25, 2018 at 3:38:44 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot
wrote:
On Sunday, November 25, 2018 at 4:24:40 PM UTC-5, jbeattie wrote:

[...]


And for Sir, you can't flip HG -- at least not without grinding.
I just went and tried flipping a cog from a junk freewheel
sitting in my basement. It's a no-go. I'll go try again just to
make sure I'm not missing anything.



-- Jay Beattie.

I'm NOT talking about flipping a HG cog onto a UG freehub. I'm
talking about flipping a HG cog on a HG freehub.


Which can be done. The HG cogs I modded to go on UG hubs can be mounted
both ways, also on HG hubs.


CHeers

I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip
the cog. The notches are not symmetrical.


After a little dance with a Dremel you can.

Yes, if you grind off the largest tab, you can do practically anything
-- with your slop-fit sprocket transmitting torque through probably
10% less surface area with the high gear stopped off because its worn
out. And hey, why not use four less spokes on each wheel, no bar tape,
one brake, a hose clamp in lieu of a proper headset nut, etc., etc.


You aren't supposed to grind off all of it. Besides, even if you did it
wouldn't make a difference.


And if having a six-speed dumpster-bike is O.K., why on earth are you
complaining about a little growling coming from your new pie-plate
sprocket? You should be happy if the wheels turn. And you still
can't fit fenders with reasonably-sized tires, so enjoy the rainy season.


Of course this bike can have fenders, the frame is even prepared for
that. Never saw the need though. On the rear the top connector of the
panniers acts as a fender.

Regarding dumpster bikes you'd be surprised for how much money some of
these old frames go. I will never trade my Reynolds steel frame for a
plastics bike.


Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have a
reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to rebuild
the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to save one cog
makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all
but this is sounding close to OCD.


I've never had any issue whatsoever with hacked cassettes. Or any other
hack for that matter. What I had problems with was "professionally" made
stuff.

In fact, the hose-clamped steerer set on my road bike holds up better
than the newfangled modern one on my MT which needs occasional adjustment.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Since you wore a chain ring that far be sure to replace the chain as well. And check the idler pulleys for wear.

On 2018-11-27 08:40, jbeattie wrote:
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 7:14:23 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-27 07:04, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:24:47 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 14:01, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:26:53 PM UTC-5, duane
wrote: Snipped

Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to
have a reasonable expectation of getting back without
having to try to rebuild the bike on the side of the road.
To hack my cassette to save one cog makes no sense to me.
Frugality is a good thing for the planet and all but this
is sounding close to OCD.

I have a couple of bicycle wheels that still have Uniglide
Cassette bodies on them. A few years ago I came across a
bicycle shop that was a bit outside of a city in our area.
that shop HAD a number of brand new Uniglide 7 speed
cassettes at $5.00 per cassette. I said HAD because I bough
every one they had. I even have a couple of NOS Uniglide
cassette bodies.


Out of curiosity, what are UG cassette bodies? The UG cassettes
I had, even before a hack, consisted only of cogs, spacers and
three screws that held it all together (but which weren't
really needed and removed by me).


... I'm set for the rest of my years and won't need to hack
apart and Dremel Hyperglide cassettes to replace those
Uniglide cogs once they wear out on both sides. If I get to
the point where I need lower gears I'll just swap out the
bottom bracket spindle 0r cartridge and add a triple
chainring crankset. I have a number of those on hand waiting
for that day.


That'll be very hard on the chain and cogs if you ride a lot of
hills. Depends on rider weight and load, of course.


Speaking of hacking cassettes. I have one bicycle wheel that
has a 9-speed hacked cassette with a corncob cluster 11 to 19
teeth being shifted with friction downtube shifters which is
good because one of the cogs I could not find on my spare 9
speed cassettes was take from and 8 speed cassette. I have no
problems shifting to or from any of those cogs. It's a fun
bike to ride on gently rolling hills.

On my long distance road bike I have the Campagnolo Veloce 30
- 42 - 52 triple crank and find that 30 teeth ring useful at
times in strong headwinds, steep hills or if I'm really
tired.

However, I think some people like Joerg simply enjoy making
something work with something it wasn't designed to work
with.


Oh yeah. Sometimes you get a little bonus in the wake. For
example, this new cassette came with 11T and 13T as smallest
cogs. Because of its construction these had to stay in unless
I'd do a more serious hack on the big grinder. Turns out that
52/11 acts like an overdrive in a car and if the wind picks up
a wee bit I can shift to 13T. Currently I am missing 15T so I
accelerate for the last bit on the 18T, then shift to the 13T
for a "mild overdrive". It suits me well because I am not used
to spinning.

So, are your three lowest cogs 11, 13, 18? Is there nothing
between 13 and 18?


Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really
want that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only
supports 7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction
shifters a smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun.


https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/...-expert-bz-rfe Wait
for the bankruptcy to ramp-up, and the price will drop some more --
or get the same bike at the door-closing sale at your nearest
Performance. Steel, 9 reasonable speeds, tire clearance, discs, etc.,
etc. All the things you want for your gnarly road riding in the
wilds of Cameron Park. The massive Trump tax break should more than
fund that bike, or at least the bar tape.


That is a good deal and with hydraulic brakes no less. Bankruptcy at
Nashbar? Please tell us you were kidding. Pricepoint is already gone
which hurt (no bankruptcy, they just shut down) and now another?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-27 07:23, Ralph Barone wrote:
Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 19:29, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Mon, 26 Nov 2018 12:28:09 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-25 17:56, jbeattie wrote:

[...]


I can't get a HG cassette cog to fit on a HG freehub body if I flip
the cog. The notches are not symmetrical.


After a little dance with a Dremel you can.

A new 10 speed free hub is less then $20. Spreading the rear fork is a
trivial task, re dishing a wheel, that is reasonably true, is simple
...


In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great. Of
course, I could buy a new bike ...


Are you sure? :-)


No because then my wife would want this trusty old road bike to
disappear. She has a point, too many bikes already in the garage, three
for me and one is hers.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-26 17:46, Ralph Barone wrote:
Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 08:56, wrote:
On Thursday, November 22, 2018 at 4:05:29 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
After installing a new Sunrace 40-11T cassette (minus one cog), a
new chain and a new rear derailer the road bike can now climb hills
much better. 40T as biggest cog versus 32T before. Woohoo!

However, on the middle and three larger cogs (it's now a 7-speed)
there is a distinct vrrrt .. vrrrt sound when under heavy load.
Maybe from the chain because with a derailer setup it'll never run
100% straight. Hard to say. The noise appears briefly twice per
pedal crank rotation and always on the power strokes.

The chain is a KMC Z50 that should be suited for 7-speed and I
looked, it doesn't rub against a neighbor cog. Maybe a "teeth exit
grinding"? On the 3rd cog from the largest it's really weird
because that has an almost perfect chain line when on the small
chain ring up front.

Anyone heard that before? Can it simply be ignored? Or maybe it'll
go away over time?

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It just occurred to me Joerg - didn't the older 8-speed SunRace
cassettes come with SR or Shimano spacings You can look at
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k9.shtml


I have (mostly) used a set of spacers from my old UG cassettes. That way
I got seven of the eight cogs mounted on the freehub. Had to scarifice
the 15T. On a hilly ride yesterday that felt good but I'll see on a
longer ride in the flatlands later this week if the 15T should go back
in and maybe the 28T taken out instead.

40T in back sure feels good on some of these here hills.

BTW, together with a buddy we found the cause and I think someone here
had mentioned it: The chain rings are a bit worn. The smaller one more
so and it has developed slight shark fin tips on the teeth. This causes
the chain to be picked up at the bottom during high torque, resulting in
chain slap and, in consequence, derailer "dancing". Unfortunately that
chain ring can't be flipped around easily for a 2nd life so I need to
find a new one. For now I'll file down the shark fins a bit.

Hey, I guessed it! Is there a prize?


:-)

The weird thing is where that growl came from. It was the chain ring not
letting the chain go when it wanted to continue to the lower idler pulley.

[...]

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2018-11-27 10:08, wrote:
On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 2:12:22 PM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2018-11-26 13:26, Duane wrote:

[...]

Typically if I start off on a decent lenght ride, I like to have
a reasonable expectation of getting back without having to try to
rebuild the bike on the side of the road. To hack my cassette to
save one cog makes no sense to me. Frugality is a good thing for
the planet and all but this is sounding close to OCD.


I've never had any issue whatsoever with hacked cassettes. Or any
other hack for that matter. What I had problems with was
"professionally" made stuff.

In fact, the hose-clamped steerer set on my road bike holds up
better than the newfangled modern one on my MT which needs
occasional adjustment.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Since you wore a chain ring that far be sure to replace the chain as
well. And check the idler pulleys for wear.


The chain and the whole derailer are new. I did wear the previous chain
far. It was the first chain for me that didn't stretch but the ID of its
rollers has enlargended, big time.

It's ok, the chain does not ride up anywhere on the chain ring. It's
just that the chain ring worn in so much that tiny li'l hooks have
formed. I have filed those off many times on rear cogs when I was a
student on a small budget.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Monday, November 26, 2018 at 4:12:22 PM UTC-6, Joerg wrote:

I will never trade my Reynolds steel frame for a
plastics bike.

--
Regards, Joerg



I am fortunate to own a beautiful, perfectly fitting steel Waterford Reynolds 753 frame, and 531 fork. Bought about 20 years ago for a great price. Similar frame today goes for $2200 and fork for $500. I love the bike. Perfect ride, beautiful look. But if Trek offered me a Madone or Specialized offered me a Venge for it, I'd trade it faster than your alcoholic hand could reach for a bottle of beer out of your bag. What you are saying is exactly as stupid as someone saying they would never trade a share of Microsoft stock for a share of Apple stock. Stupidity times 1.7. One share of Microsoft stock sells for $107.27. One share of Apple sells for $173.48. Only the dumbest people on earth would not make that trade.

On 11/27/2018 1:02 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:14:23 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want
that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports
7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a
smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I have two bicycles with 9 speed clusters, chain and old school friction shifters. I can shift gears on either bicycle with no problems.

YMMV and probably does.

My folding bike has a 9 speed cluster and bar end shifters that can be
set to either index or friction. Sometimes the folding messes with the
indexing for a while, so I just use the friction setting. It's no
problem at all.

But I know it wouldn't work for Joerg.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 3:36:50 PM UTC-5, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/27/2018 1:02 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, November 27, 2018 at 10:14:23 AM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
Snipped

Unfortunately not. I'll see how that fares this week. If I really want
that 15T I'll probably take out the 28T instead. The bike only supports
7-speed unless I'd go to a smaller chain. With friction shifters a
smaller chain and more cogs would not be fun.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

I have two bicycles with 9 speed clusters, chain and old school friction shifters. I can shift gears on either bicycle with no problems.

YMMV and probably does.

My folding bike has a 9 speed cluster and bar end shifters that can be
set to either index or friction. Sometimes the folding messes with the
indexing for a while, so I just use the friction setting. It's no
problem at all.

But I know it wouldn't work for Joerg.

--
- Frank Krygowski

There are some things that you and I seem to like such as those old Lyotard platform like pedals. I love them in the winter as they're so easy to get in and out of and the toeclips on them accommodate many different types of shoes or boots.

I know that a lot of people detest old school stuff but what the heck, if one owns it and uses it why get rid of something that is fully functional just to have to latest? When my stuff and old stock spares wear out I'll probably be dust in the ground.

Cheers

On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 10:20:24 -0800, Joerg wrote:

That is a good deal and with hydraulic brakes no less. Bankruptcy at
Nashbar? Please tell us you were kidding. Pricepoint is already gone
which hurt (no bankruptcy, they just shut down) and now another?

Bankruptcy sales are a business specialisation in their own class. Sell
the quality stuff elsewhere and fill the store(s) full of cheap and nasty
stuff so it looks like bargains. Come in sucker.

On Tue, 27 Nov 2018 10:22:18 -0800, Joerg wrote:

On 2018-11-27 07:23, Ralph Barone wrote:


In my case, 10-speed with friction shifters would not be that great.
Of course, I could buy a new bike ...


Are you sure? :-)


No because then my wife would want this trusty old road bike to
disappear. She has a point, too many bikes already in the garage, three
for me and one is hers.

Me = bicycles, her = sewing machines. Nuff said.