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#32
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
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#33
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Mon, 8 May 2017 12:54:25 -0400, Duane
wrote: On 08/05/2017 12:06 PM, wrote: On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote: ...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh. robert I only did about 35 Km yesterday, but, in my defence, the weather was off-putting. I was astride my 1972 Torpado Strada with its still mostly Nuovo Record gruppo. -- Andrew Chaplin If I wanted to ride yesterday, I would have needed a canoe. It's looking worse today and now we're getting sleet. all last week a cabin cruiser would have been more like it - today was sunny and clear - and windy and cold. I DID ride about 7 miles today and about 10 yesterday afternoon after the weather cleared. Bad head winds on the outward leg. |
#34
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote: ...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh. robert It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike: http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles. You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued. A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger like a hoser clamp. At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset. I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep technical things for a long time. Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put in a new non-600 headset. |
#35
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Mon, 08 May 2017 14:45:24 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/8/2017 2:37 PM, Duane wrote: On 08/05/2017 3:27 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 5/8/2017 1:33 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:06:57 AM UTC-5, wrote: It's no surprise that not only have they survived but they still work almost as well as new. The problem is even when new, the old stuff did not work nearly as well as any of the new stuff today. Kind of like a fool saying the drum brakes and carburetor on his 65 Pontiac was better than the new fancy dandy computer cars today. Agreed, dependable/repairable/cheap is not the same as best performance. People have personal preferences based on various not-shared criteria. That said, after the Chinese run their high altitude EMP device, my no-electronics cars will run and yours won't. You have a crank on the front of that model A Andrew? Unless you mean your bike and then I'm all in with that idea. 12V electrical system without semiconductors, EPROMS or ICs. p.s. Model T had a crank (at first anyway through 1919), model A are electric start. I own neither. No electronics on my bikes either. The crank came as standard equipment right up to about 1948 in north america and well into the 60s in britain. (Anflias, Prefects,) I know a lot of the mid 60's BMC stuff still had cranks in the boot - the MG right up untill the end of the MGA. |
#36
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote: ...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh. robert It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike: http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles. You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued. A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger like a hoser clamp. At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset. I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep technical things for a long time. Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put in a new non-600 headset. I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails. Cheers |
#37
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Mon, 08 May 2017 14:45:24 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/8/2017 2:37 PM, Duane wrote: On 08/05/2017 3:27 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 5/8/2017 1:33 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:06:57 AM UTC-5, wrote: It's no surprise that not only have they survived but they still work almost as well as new. The problem is even when new, the old stuff did not work nearly as well as any of the new stuff today. Kind of like a fool saying the drum brakes and carburetor on his 65 Pontiac was better than the new fancy dandy computer cars today. Agreed, dependable/repairable/cheap is not the same as best performance. People have personal preferences based on various not-shared criteria. That said, after the Chinese run their high altitude EMP device, my no-electronics cars will run and yours won't. You have a crank on the front of that model A Andrew? Unless you mean your bike and then I'm all in with that idea. 12V electrical system without semiconductors, EPROMS or ICs. p.s. Model T had a crank (at first anyway through 1919), model A are electric start. I own neither. No electronics on my bikes either. No electrics? One assumes that your bicycle has a crank instead :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#38
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote: ...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh. robert It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike: http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles. You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued. A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger like a hoser clamp. At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset. I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep technical things for a long time. Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put in a new non-600 headset. I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails. Cheers Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be loose. A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#39
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Mon, 08 May 2017 19:06:34 -0500, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/8/2017 5:37 PM, Duane wrote: AMuzi wrote: On 5/8/2017 2:56 PM, Duane wrote: On 08/05/2017 3:45 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 5/8/2017 2:37 PM, Duane wrote: On 08/05/2017 3:27 PM, AMuzi wrote: On 5/8/2017 1:33 PM, wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:06:57 AM UTC-5, wrote: It's no surprise that not only have they survived but they still work almost as well as new. The problem is even when new, the old stuff did not work nearly as well as any of the new stuff today. Kind of like a fool saying the drum brakes and carburetor on his 65 Pontiac was better than the new fancy dandy computer cars today. Agreed, dependable/repairable/cheap is not the same as best performance. People have personal preferences based on various not-shared criteria. That said, after the Chinese run their high altitude EMP device, my no-electronics cars will run and yours won't. You have a crank on the front of that model A Andrew? Unless you mean your bike and then I'm all in with that idea. 12V electrical system without semiconductors, EPROMS or ICs. p.s. Model T had a crank (at first anyway through 1919), model A are electric start. I own neither. No electronics on my bikes either. No, I don't have electronics on my bike except my garmin and after the bomb, I figure I won't need that. But it's been a while since I've seen a car without an electronic ignition. A matchbook and some meatware are sufficient for setting mechanical breaker points. I know. I used to carry points, rotor and condenser in my glove box. But that was with a '69 Camaro with a 283. Long time ago. I love my 283. I think Mr Slocumb would agree it's everything an Ariel Four is not. One might say a small block 283 is the Sturmey Archer AW of the auto world. Actually the 265's were the big deal. When they first appeared a fellow installed a bog standard 265 in a gas fuel, non blown, dragster chassis and brought it out to the strip. He whipped every V-8 Ford that would run against him. The next month there were more Chevy engines and it wasn't long before the Ford flat head was a museum item. I suspect that the very first 283's were probably some of the 265 boys that owned a boring bar :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
#40
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14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 4:06:01 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote: On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote: On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote: On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote: ...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh. robert It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike: http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles. You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued. A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger like a hoser clamp. At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset. I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep technical things for a long time. Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put in a new non-600 headset. I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails. Cheers Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be loose. A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-) -- Cheers, John B. Which confirms my statement that the headset locknut was not installed correctly. Cheers |
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