14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...

On 2017-05-09 06:23, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

At some point in time either you or a shop did something
that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others
eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it
for them. I keep technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to
it I'll put in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut
and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow,
lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's
problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE
who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would
be loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of
bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was
bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a
washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually tightened
against the bearing race and have had no more problems in the last
couple of years :-)

-- Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost impossible
to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long. Like yours it
will appear to tighten up because it will bend just enough to appear
to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve your
problem.


I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any other gremlin causing this
and everything was alright. The lock nut does push down as it's supposed
to do but that just isn't good enough for rides that include dirt paths
or dirt roads. Which is almost inevitable where I live.

As I wrote I was not the only one. Back in the 80's many of the more
serious riders had Shimano 600 or 600EX. I lived in the Netherlands but
close to Germany and Belgium. The riders who only did fitness rounds in
Zuid Limburg (Dutch side) didn't have problems with the headset.
Belgians and riders like me who ventured out into Belgium had them come
loose a lot. Regardless of whether they had Gazelle, Merckx or other
frames. The roads over there were often in bad shape, especially in the
Wallonie (French-speaking area). Those guys also broke spokes as often
as I do.

Full confession: I often rode in Belgium because I loved their pubs and
the Abbey Ales. Still do. That's why I have a Belgian Tripel carbonating
right now and another set of ingredients ready to brew.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 5/9/2017 1:33 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 12:38:16 PM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:

A Campagnolo NR derailleur working "as well as new" is not something I want. No way I would ever go back to DT friction shifting.

Classic bikes were boat anchors, and like boat anchors, they were mostly indestructible -- unless you were riding Ergal rims or early Ti anything and unless you broke a NR crank. I broke five or six. I would wear out Campy cup and cone BBs. I broke a Phil BB just before a big event, which really ****ed me off. The center collar on the hollow axle failed. Oro freewheels would crap out. Everything was not sunshine, rainbows and indestructible. Less destructible than today, but also less efficient.

I was at one of my son's races on Saturday in Salt Lake, and holy crap people spend money on bikes these days. There are a lot of worthy racing bikes in the $3K range, but it was hard to find a set of wheels that cost less than that at the race. The old dude masters were dumping boat loads of dough on their bikes -- and apparently masters' doping is a thing in SLC. They are super competitive.

Anyway, I was surprised to see lots of racing bikes with cogs up to 28t. What? I raced on 42/52 and 19t and maybe 21t back in the day. Racers now spin up hills instead of grinding, and on the flats they fly in giant gears. Racers ride differently than we did in the 70s (and before). The olde tyme 5-6sp stuff just doesn't cut it these days.

-- Jay Beattie.

Sorry, but if you're NOT a racer then a lot of that Old School Stuff is still good to use these days. A lt of non-fitness or non-racing riders today do have not developed the finesse to tell much from Old School Stuff and modern stuff.

Agreed. It's not that I never try to go (sort of) fast. But I never
saw the point of dropping even $500 on equipment that might allow me to
win a water bottle. YMMV, of course.

I'm into biking more for the traveling, the scenery, the socializing,
the utility and efficiency. None of that requires cutting edge equipment.

And to me, a bicycle is a beautiful mechanical device. It doesn't get
any more beautiful if it has a few less spokes in the wheels, or a
derailleur that just came out this year.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 11:01:57 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-09 06:23, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

At some point in time either you or a shop did something
that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others
eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it
for them. I keep technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to
it I'll put in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut
and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow,
lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's
problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE
who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would
be loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of
bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was
bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a
washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually tightened
against the bearing race and have had no more problems in the last
couple of years :-)

-- Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost impossible
to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long. Like yours it
will appear to tighten up because it will bend just enough to appear
to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve your
problem.


I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any other gremlin causing this
and everything was alright. The lock nut does push down as it's supposed
to do but that just isn't good enough for rides that include dirt paths
or dirt roads. Which is almost inevitable where I live.

As I wrote I was not the only one. Back in the 80's many of the more
serious riders had Shimano 600 or 600EX. I lived in the Netherlands but
close to Germany and Belgium. The riders who only did fitness rounds in
Zuid Limburg (Dutch side) didn't have problems with the headset.
Belgians and riders like me who ventured out into Belgium had them come
loose a lot. Regardless of whether they had Gazelle, Merckx or other
frames. The roads over there were often in bad shape, especially in the
Wallonie (French-speaking area). Those guys also broke spokes as often
as I do.

Full confession: I often rode in Belgium because I loved their pubs and
the Abbey Ales. Still do. That's why I have a Belgian Tripel carbonating
right now and another set of ingredients ready to brew.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Do you have the required star wrench to tighten it properly? Do you also have the stock spacer between the race and the lockbolt?

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 11:01:57 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-09 06:23, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

At some point in time either you or a shop did something
that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others
eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it
for them. I keep technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to
it I'll put in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut
and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow,
lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's
problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE
who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would
be loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of
bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was
bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a
washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually tightened
against the bearing race and have had no more problems in the last
couple of years :-)

-- Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost impossible
to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long. Like yours it
will appear to tighten up because it will bend just enough to appear
to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve your
problem.


I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any other gremlin causing this
and everything was alright. The lock nut does push down as it's supposed
to do but that just isn't good enough for rides that include dirt paths
or dirt roads. Which is almost inevitable where I live.

As I wrote I was not the only one. Back in the 80's many of the more
serious riders had Shimano 600 or 600EX. I lived in the Netherlands but
close to Germany and Belgium. The riders who only did fitness rounds in
Zuid Limburg (Dutch side) didn't have problems with the headset.
Belgians and riders like me who ventured out into Belgium had them come
loose a lot. Regardless of whether they had Gazelle, Merckx or other
frames. The roads over there were often in bad shape, especially in the
Wallonie (French-speaking area). Those guys also broke spokes as often
as I do.

Full confession: I often rode in Belgium because I loved their pubs and
the Abbey Ales. Still do. That's why I have a Belgian Tripel carbonating
right now and another set of ingredients ready to brew.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

After falling back to steel and getting some top notch steel bikes I must say that my enjoyment of riding has increased considerably though I'm sure that my speed has come down a great deal. I could care less about speed.

On 2017-05-09 11:52, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 11:01:57 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-09 06:23, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

At some point in time either you or a shop did
something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX
headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the
others eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which
"fixed" it for them. I keep technical things for a long
time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around
to it I'll put in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top
nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it?
ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used
without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that
he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust
and tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the
bearings would be loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of
bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was
bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added
a washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually
tightened against the bearing race and have had no more
problems in the last couple of years :-)

-- Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost
impossible to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long.
Like yours it will appear to tighten up because it will bend just
enough to appear to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause
it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve
your problem.


I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any other gremlin causing
this and everything was alright. The lock nut does push down as
it's supposed to do but that just isn't good enough for rides that
include dirt paths or dirt roads. Which is almost inevitable where
I live.

As I wrote I was not the only one. Back in the 80's many of the
more serious riders had Shimano 600 or 600EX. I lived in the
Netherlands but close to Germany and Belgium. The riders who only
did fitness rounds in Zuid Limburg (Dutch side) didn't have
problems with the headset. Belgians and riders like me who ventured
out into Belgium had them come loose a lot. Regardless of whether
they had Gazelle, Merckx or other frames. The roads over there were
often in bad shape, especially in the Wallonie (French-speaking
area). Those guys also broke spokes as often as I do.

Full confession: I often rode in Belgium because I loved their pubs
and the Abbey Ales. Still do. That's why I have a Belgian Tripel
carbonating right now and another set of ingredients ready to
brew.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Do you have the required star wrench to tighten it properly?


No but a large adjustable wrench fits. It scuffs the scallops of the nut
a little but I do not care about such aesthetics.


... Do you
also have the stock spacer between the race and the lockbolt?


Yup.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2017-05-09 11:57, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 11:01:57 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-09 06:23, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

At some point in time either you or a shop did
something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX
headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the
others eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which
"fixed" it for them. I keep technical things for a long
time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around
to it I'll put in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top
nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it?
ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used
without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that
he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust
and tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the
bearings would be loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of
bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was
bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added
a washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually
tightened against the bearing race and have had no more
problems in the last couple of years :-)

-- Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost
impossible to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long.
Like yours it will appear to tighten up because it will bend just
enough to appear to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause
it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve
your problem.


I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any other gremlin causing
this and everything was alright. The lock nut does push down as
it's supposed to do but that just isn't good enough for rides that
include dirt paths or dirt roads. Which is almost inevitable where
I live.

As I wrote I was not the only one. Back in the 80's many of the
more serious riders had Shimano 600 or 600EX. I lived in the
Netherlands but close to Germany and Belgium. The riders who only
did fitness rounds in Zuid Limburg (Dutch side) didn't have
problems with the headset. Belgians and riders like me who ventured
out into Belgium had them come loose a lot. Regardless of whether
they had Gazelle, Merckx or other frames. The roads over there were
often in bad shape, especially in the Wallonie (French-speaking
area). Those guys also broke spokes as often as I do.

Full confession: I often rode in Belgium because I loved their pubs
and the Abbey Ales. Still do. That's why I have a Belgian Tripel
carbonating right now and another set of ingredients ready to
brew.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

After falling back to steel and getting some top notch steel bikes I
must say that my enjoyment of riding has increased considerably
though I'm sure that my speed has come down a great deal. I could
care less about speed.


Same here. Riding is supposed to be fun and I am not about to enter the
Amgen Tour. I used to fret out my avg speed being 0.2mph lower than last
week but no more. I actually now ride some sections slower on purpose
because I see more. That hawk in the tree, another doing aerobatics
obviously just for fun, a dog in a yard that now is kind of a friend,
and so on.

Should ye olde Gazelle Trim Trophy ever croak I'll either buy a Ti frame
Cyclocross or a steel frame long-haul bike like the one from Trek
someone here pointed out. Must be heavy-load capable and must have disc
brakes, those items are non-negotiable.

Some of my rides are semi-utility where I have to schlepp stuff back up
the hill at the end. This is why I'll also need a sturdy tandem-rated
real wheel.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tue, 09 May 2017 15:05:56 +0700, John B.
wrote:

snipped

Actually the 265's were the big deal. When they first appeared a
fellow installed a bog standard 265 in a gas fuel, non blown, dragster
chassis and brought it out to the strip. He whipped every V-8 Ford
that would run against him. The next month there were more Chevy
engines and it wasn't long before the Ford flat head was a museum
item.

I suspect that the very first 283's were probably some of the 265 boys
that owned a boring bar :-)
If it overheated a lot, it was likely a bored 265. The 283 block was
modified to allow the larger bore without making the cyl walls too
thin. (different sand cores were designed for the castings)

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 11:14:04 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 5/9/2017 1:33 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 12:38:16 PM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:

A Campagnolo NR derailleur working "as well as new" is not something I want. No way I would ever go back to DT friction shifting.

Classic bikes were boat anchors, and like boat anchors, they were mostly indestructible -- unless you were riding Ergal rims or early Ti anything and unless you broke a NR crank. I broke five or six. I would wear out Campy cup and cone BBs. I broke a Phil BB just before a big event, which really ****ed me off. The center collar on the hollow axle failed. Oro freewheels would crap out. Everything was not sunshine, rainbows and indestructible. Less destructible than today, but also less efficient.

I was at one of my son's races on Saturday in Salt Lake, and holy crap people spend money on bikes these days. There are a lot of worthy racing bikes in the $3K range, but it was hard to find a set of wheels that cost less than that at the race. The old dude masters were dumping boat loads of dough on their bikes -- and apparently masters' doping is a thing in SLC. They are super competitive.

Anyway, I was surprised to see lots of racing bikes with cogs up to 28t. What? I raced on 42/52 and 19t and maybe 21t back in the day. Racers now spin up hills instead of grinding, and on the flats they fly in giant gears. Racers ride differently than we did in the 70s (and before). The olde tyme 5-6sp stuff just doesn't cut it these days.

-- Jay Beattie.

Sorry, but if you're NOT a racer then a lot of that Old School Stuff is still good to use these days. A lt of non-fitness or non-racing riders today do have not developed the finesse to tell much from Old School Stuff and modern stuff.

Agreed. It's not that I never try to go (sort of) fast. But I never
saw the point of dropping even $500 on equipment that might allow me to
win a water bottle. YMMV, of course.

I'm into biking more for the traveling, the scenery, the socializing,
the utility and efficiency. None of that requires cutting edge equipment.

And to me, a bicycle is a beautiful mechanical device. It doesn't get
any more beautiful if it has a few less spokes in the wheels, or a
derailleur that just came out this year.

Yes, ride what you like. I'm just talking about racing or quasi-racing (trying to keep up with others) -- although modern equipment is more pleasant for me even on casual rides through the country. My country is hilly, and I now like a compact and a 25t or 28t cassette. I also like having a light and responsive frame. I also like index shifting from the levers so I can stand and shift while climbing. My wheels, however, are pretty pedestrian, and my modern bikes are certainly not bleeding-edge.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 5/9/2017 2:52 PM, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 11:01:57 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-09 06:23, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4,
wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

At some point in time either you or a shop did something
that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others
eventually didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it
for them. I keep technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to
it I'll put in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut
and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow,
lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's
problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE
who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would
be loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of
bottoming out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was
bottoming out on a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a
washer, perhaps 3/32" thick so the top nut actually tightened
against the bearing race and have had no more problems in the last
couple of years :-)

-- Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost impossible
to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long. Like yours it
will appear to tighten up because it will bend just enough to appear
to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve your
problem.


I took it apart to make sure there wasn't any other gremlin causing this
and everything was alright. The lock nut does push down as it's supposed
to do but that just isn't good enough for rides that include dirt paths
or dirt roads. Which is almost inevitable where I live.

As I wrote I was not the only one. Back in the 80's many of the more
serious riders had Shimano 600 or 600EX. I lived in the Netherlands but
close to Germany and Belgium. The riders who only did fitness rounds in
Zuid Limburg (Dutch side) didn't have problems with the headset.
Belgians and riders like me who ventured out into Belgium had them come
loose a lot. Regardless of whether they had Gazelle, Merckx or other
frames. The roads over there were often in bad shape, especially in the
Wallonie (French-speaking area). Those guys also broke spokes as often
as I do.

Full confession: I often rode in Belgium because I loved their pubs and
the Abbey Ales. Still do. That's why I have a Belgian Tripel carbonating
right now and another set of ingredients ready to brew.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Do you have the required star wrench to tighten it properly? Do you also have the stock spacer between the race and the lockbolt?

As Andrew has pointed out, a normal headset wrench works fine.

BTW, I remembered today that I have not one, but two bikes with that
headset.

--
- Frank Krygowski

On 2017-05-08 19:16, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 14:45:24 -0500, AMuzi wrote:

On 5/8/2017 2:37 PM, Duane wrote:
On 08/05/2017 3:27 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/8/2017 1:33 PM, wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 9:06:57 AM UTC-5,
wrote:



It's no surprise that not only have they survived but
they still work
almost as well as new.


The problem is even when new, the old stuff did not work
nearly as
well as any of the new stuff today. Kind of like a fool
saying the
drum brakes and carburetor on his 65 Pontiac was better
than the new
fancy dandy computer cars today.


Agreed, dependable/repairable/cheap is not the same as
best performance.
People have personal preferences based on various
not-shared criteria.

That said, after the Chinese run their high altitude EMP
device, my
no-electronics cars will run and yours won't.


You have a crank on the front of that model A Andrew?
Unless you mean your bike and then I'm all in with that idea.

12V electrical system without semiconductors, EPROMS or ICs.

p.s. Model T had a crank (at first anyway through 1919),
model A are electric start. I own neither.

No electronics on my bikes either.
The crank came as standard equipment right up to about 1948 in north
america and well into the 60s in britain. (Anflias, Prefects,) I know
a lot of the mid 60's BMC stuff still had cranks in the boot - the MG
right up untill the end of the MGA.


I had a Citroen 2CV and it came standard with a crank. Which I used a
lot because as a student I couldn't bring myself to spend the equivalent
of half a dozen crates of beer on a 6V battery. This tupe of car:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citro%...0288067%29.jpg

AFAIK they delivered them with crank until production ended around 1980.

No electronic components whatsoever, not even a diode, so it was
EMP-proof. One could fix just about anything with a minimum amount of tools.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/