Headsets

Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times.. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark

On 11/8/2020 7:17 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark


There are various iterations of 'Ritchey headset' but most
bearings can be opened by removing a seal, flushing out the
bearing and refilling with fresh grease. Any reason you
didn't do that?

The bearing preload should press the spacers down against
the headset compression ring until there is no play yet
turns easily. Class of fit and surface finish of the spacers
may allow them to turn, or not, unrelated to the headset
adjustment. There's not significant pressure once the stem
bolts are locked.

Given that quality headsets are dirt cheap I wouldn't
anguish over it but when you had it apart I would certainly
have serviced or replaced the bearing especially since you
saw corrosion nearby.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.

On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup.. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.

A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.

Deacon Mark

On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:10:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.
A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.

Headsets are lightly loaded except under heavy braking so pitted lower races in general are not a danger. But they CAN cause an accident because under hard braking if you lock a ball in a rust pit and hit an angular bump it might not self correct. I had a similar case 3 or 4 years ago when I had over-tightened the headset without realizing it and when I was looking the other way I ran over a root protruding under the road surface and the steering did not self correct and I went down in a heap. I thought I was OK but when I returned to that area later I couldn't even tell you where it happened until a friend came out and spray painted where those roots were pushing up the rad surface.

On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 11:28:54 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:10:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.
A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.
Headsets are lightly loaded except under heavy braking so pitted lower races in general are not a danger. But they CAN cause an accident because under hard braking if you lock a ball in a rust pit and hit an angular bump it might not self correct. I had a similar case 3 or 4 years ago when I had over-tightened the headset without realizing it and when I was looking the other way I ran over a root protruding under the road surface and the steering did not self correct and I went down in a heap. I thought I was OK but when I returned to that area later I couldn't even tell you where it happened until a friend came out and spray painted where those roots were pushing up the rad surface.


Do most steel and Titanium frames that have a standard headtubes that use external cups have the same specs for outside and inside headtube dimensions? I assume they do since the headsets are sold separately. What do they tend to be? The outside diameter of m tube is about 40mm. I did not measure the inside but the headset cups are 30.4 inside diameter. Does that sound correct?

Deacon Mark

On 11/9/2020 7:23 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 11:28:54 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:10:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.
A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.
Headsets are lightly loaded except under heavy braking so pitted lower races in general are not a danger. But they CAN cause an accident because under hard braking if you lock a ball in a rust pit and hit an angular bump it might not self correct. I had a similar case 3 or 4 years ago when I had over-tightened the headset without realizing it and when I was looking the other way I ran over a root protruding under the road surface and the steering did not self correct and I went down in a heap. I thought I was OK but when I returned to that area later I couldn't even tell you where it happened until a friend came out and spray painted where those roots were pushing up the rad surface.


Do most steel and Titanium frames that have a standard headtubes that use external cups have the same specs for outside and inside headtube dimensions? I assume they do since the headsets are sold separately. What do they tend to be? The outside diameter of m tube is about 40mm. I did not measure the inside but the headset cups are 30.4 inside diameter. Does that sound correct?

Deacon Mark


It's a Habanero Nuevo, right?
Standard OS external headset:

http://habcycles.com/techstuf.html#tapered

Yours is not 'weird' of which there are many.
Sealed-cartridge headsets start about $40


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 7:50:44 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/9/2020 7:23 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 11:28:54 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:10:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.
A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.
Headsets are lightly loaded except under heavy braking so pitted lower races in general are not a danger. But they CAN cause an accident because under hard braking if you lock a ball in a rust pit and hit an angular bump it might not self correct. I had a similar case 3 or 4 years ago when I had over-tightened the headset without realizing it and when I was looking the other way I ran over a root protruding under the road surface and the steering did not self correct and I went down in a heap. I thought I was OK but when I returned to that area later I couldn't even tell you where it happened until a friend came out and spray painted where those roots were pushing up the rad surface.


Do most steel and Titanium frames that have a standard headtubes that use external cups have the same specs for outside and inside headtube dimensions? I assume they do since the headsets are sold separately. What do they tend to be? The outside diameter of m tube is about 40mm. I did not measure the inside but the headset cups are 30.4 inside diameter. Does that sound correct?

Deacon Mark

It's a Habanero Nuevo, right?
Standard OS external headset:

http://habcycles.com/techstuf.html#tapered

Yours is not 'weird' of which there are many.
Sealed-cartridge headsets start about $40
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Andrew I promise to leave you alone just tell me this headset will work fine a just press it in.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/wc...adless-headset

Deacon Mark

On 11/9/2020 8:06 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 7:50:44 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/9/2020 7:23 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 11:28:54 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:10:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.
A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.
Headsets are lightly loaded except under heavy braking so pitted lower races in general are not a danger. But they CAN cause an accident because under hard braking if you lock a ball in a rust pit and hit an angular bump it might not self correct. I had a similar case 3 or 4 years ago when I had over-tightened the headset without realizing it and when I was looking the other way I ran over a root protruding under the road surface and the steering did not self correct and I went down in a heap. I thought I was OK but when I returned to that area later I couldn't even tell you where it happened until a friend came out and spray painted where those roots were pushing up the rad surface.


Do most steel and Titanium frames that have a standard headtubes that use external cups have the same specs for outside and inside headtube dimensions? I assume they do since the headsets are sold separately. What do they tend to be? The outside diameter of m tube is about 40mm. I did not measure the inside but the headset cups are 30.4 inside diameter. Does that sound correct?

Deacon Mark

It's a Habanero Nuevo, right?
Standard OS external headset:

http://habcycles.com/techstuf.html#tapered

Yours is not 'weird' of which there are many.
Sealed-cartridge headsets start about $40

Andrew I promise to leave you alone just tell me this headset will work fine a just press it in.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/wc...adless-headset

Deacon Mark


Happy to help.
Yes, that's right. Get the OS 1-1/8" format.

Get a packet of anti-seize paste (looks like a ketchup
packet, $1 at an auto parts store) and smear it where
aluminum and titanium will touch:

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/PARDOOX.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 8:14:40 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/9/2020 8:06 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 7:50:44 PM UTC-6, AMuzi wrote:
On 11/9/2020 7:23 PM, Mark Cleary wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 11:28:54 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:10:06 AM UTC-8, wrote:
On Monday, November 9, 2020 at 9:13:51 AM UTC-6, wrote:
On Sunday, November 8, 2020 at 5:17:33 PM UTC-8, wrote:
Quick question on my Habanero Team Issue headset. My bike is riding wonderful now have 20,000 miles on it in a bit of 3. 5 years. I decide to clean the headset and the bearings. It was fine but a rust developing in the bearings and surfaces. I don't normally ride in the rain but it gets wet at times. I took the top one completely out and cleaned it is seems fine. The bottom was a a bit worse and I cleaned it up but I actually did not remove the bearing itself. I must have take the seal off only maybe it is different I could see the ball bearings in a ring. I got it clean and back on seems to be fine but to me ( a perfectionist mechanic) I would like the bearings to roll a bit smoother.

It is a Ritchey Headset and Ritchey WCS fork with external cup 1 1/8 not integrated. I am have not worked directly with the RItchey Full External types. Can you replace the bearings and maybe a place to get them. I could not see a size on the top when I took it out to clean. It is fine only bottom one a bit rough,

Finally just so I have your thought. I tighten the preload and all works fine assuming I did what correct. Turns fine and no binding other than not as smooth rolling I can sort of feel. If the pre-load is correct should the be any play at all in the headset? If I apply the front brake and try to rock the bike I get the slightest of movement I can feel at the bottom cup. It is not any more that on my other bike but wonder if there should be any at all. When I mean small movement I mean just a touch, that could be within specs since they are two separate pieces coming together.

To follow up and set another 1mm space on top and manage to get the headset tighter. No real play now so many that is taken care of. So my question on is if any of you on your bike can move the spacers by hand as they sit on the steering tube. Before I made the final adjustment I could move the space by turning them with my hand not applying to much pressure. Now after the adjustment I find I can still turn the spacers underneath the stem but it is much harder now. Seems turning the bars are fine no binding or resistance.

Since this is just the steering of the bike and not something that is going round in circles ore even turning to a huge degree maybe I am being OCD about this completely.

Deacon Mark
ANY rust at all warrants the replacement of the headset.
A whole new headset it $59 not complaining but I think I can just replace the bearings in the external cups right. They should come out. The top did but not the bottom. Mark Hickey from Habanero seems say I just need to get new bearings.
Headsets are lightly loaded except under heavy braking so pitted lower races in general are not a danger. But they CAN cause an accident because under hard braking if you lock a ball in a rust pit and hit an angular bump it might not self correct. I had a similar case 3 or 4 years ago when I had over-tightened the headset without realizing it and when I was looking the other way I ran over a root protruding under the road surface and the steering did not self correct and I went down in a heap. I thought I was OK but when I returned to that area later I couldn't even tell you where it happened until a friend came out and spray painted where those roots were pushing up the rad surface.


Do most steel and Titanium frames that have a standard headtubes that use external cups have the same specs for outside and inside headtube dimensions? I assume they do since the headsets are sold separately. What do they tend to be? The outside diameter of m tube is about 40mm. I did not measure the inside but the headset cups are 30.4 inside diameter. Does that sound correct?

Deacon Mark

It's a Habanero Nuevo, right?
Standard OS external headset:

http://habcycles.com/techstuf.html#tapered

Yours is not 'weird' of which there are many.
Sealed-cartridge headsets start about $40
Andrew I promise to leave you alone just tell me this headset will work fine a just press it in.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/wc...adless-headset

Deacon Mark

Happy to help.
Yes, that's right. Get the OS 1-1/8" format.

Get a packet of anti-seize paste (looks like a ketchup
packet, $1 at an auto parts store) and smear it where
aluminum and titanium will touch:

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...st/PARDOOX.JPG
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
Ok, more questions and thank you Andrew a bike wizard! My fork is a Ritchey WCS with what is called and integrated crown race. The head set I think comes with a cap at the end that is crown race or set against the bottom cup bearing. Will I still use this and set the fork in or leave out the last part since the fork is already integrated?

Deacon mark