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#1
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
I'd like to give it a go. I'm good enough at replacing spokes and truing
after a repair. I think I can follow directions and I'm not in a rush. I need to know things like: What components are ok? Where did you buy 'em? How much did it cost? Looking at some online shops suggests ready- made wheels are pretty competitive in price. Maybe some readers out there know where a better deal can be found. The proposed wheel would be a 700c road wheel to take a 20-23mm tyre. Just a thought... Ritch -- |
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#2
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
ritcho wrote:
I'd like to give it a go. I'm good enough at replacing spokes and truing after a repair. I think I can follow directions and I'm not in a rush. I need to know things like: What components are ok? Where did you buy 'em? How much did it cost? Looking at some online shops suggests ready- made wheels are pretty competitive in price. Maybe some readers out there know where a better deal can be found. The proposed wheel would be a 700c road wheel to take a 20-23mm tyre. Just a thought... Ritch hmmm. dark arts stuff i think SuzyJ and BikeSpoiler may have been referred to as holders of such wizadry... -- |
#3
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
In article ,
flyingdutch wrote: hmmm. dark arts stuff Not at all (he says, not having done it himself yet, mind). All you need to know is at somewhere like http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html, or better still, get hold of Jobst's 'The Bicycle Wheel'. -- Shane Stanley |
#4
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
"ritcho" wrote in message news I'd like to give it a go. I'm good enough at replacing spokes and truing after a repair. I think I can follow directions and I'm not in a rush. I need to know things like: What components are ok? Where did you buy 'em? How much did it cost? Looking at some online shops suggests ready- made wheels are pretty competitive in price. Maybe some readers out there know where a better deal can be found. The proposed wheel would be a 700c road wheel to take a 20-23mm tyre. Just a thought... Ritch -- Hi Ritch, I have built them and raced on them and not had to true them. I dont think you are going to save much money building the wheels but there is something special about riding/racing your own wheel. I think you need to be patient and able to follow directions (Sheldon Brown or Jobst Brandt "The Bicycle Wheel"). Cost will vary with the quality of components and shopping around will save $$$. My 700C wheels use butted spokes ($70), Open Pro rims ($180) and Ultegra hubs (A$100 ex USA on special). This cost around $350 for the pair and extra $100 for 2 Pro Race tyres/tubes. In addition it helps to have a wheel jig and dishing tool (~$100) but you can build without them in the frame or an old fork. Once you understand the process, you can build different patterns, disk brake MTBs etc without too much trouble. It is not as difficult as you might think. Kevin |
#5
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
"K&C Russell" wrote:
I think you need to be patient and able to follow directions (Sheldon Brown or Jobst Brandt "The Bicycle Wheel"). I've been building my own wheels (infrequently, as the need has arisen) for 25 years. But having read many of Jobst's articles, I'd really like to get a copy of his book. Does anyone know of someone with stock of /The Bicycle Wheel/ (preferably Australian)? John |
#6
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
In article ,
John Henderson wrote: Does anyone know of someone with stock of /The Bicycle Wheel/ (preferably Australian)? I couldn't find an Australian stockist. Ended up going to amazon.com. -- Shane Stanley |
#7
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
John Henderson wrote:
"K&C Russell" wrote: I think you need to be patient and able to follow directions (Sheldon Brown or Jobst Brandt "The Bicycle Wheel"). I've been building my own wheels (infrequently, as the need has arisen) for 25 years. But having read many of Jobst's articles, I'd really like to get a copy of his book. Does anyone know of someone with stock of /The Bicycle Wheel/ (preferably Australian)? John I got a copy off a friend, and I have to say, he's incredibly opinionated. There are better manuals for those of us who are just starting out. Rob Van der Plas is a good author to start with, Sheldon Brown is fun (but also a bit opinionated), and if you can get hold of Ian Christie's crusty old hand-illustrated tome, that's where I first cut my teeth. The most important thing in building good wheels is trying to get EVEN SPOKE TENSION. Say that five times before you go to bed, and you'll have got it. DT and others make a very expensive spoke tension gauges, but they are not necessary for the occasional set of wheels. Al the below suggestions may help you get more even spoke tension in the rear wheel, critical for longevity and low spoke breakage. For your first set, 32 spokes per wheel, 3 cross pattern is an uncomplicated beginning. Get good spokes - DT, Sapim, Wheelsmith are readily available in Oz. Use Damon Rinard's online spoke calculator (or download his freeware Excel spreadsheet) for lengths, round them down to the nearest even mm. DT online calculator is a disaster, which is a shame, because they are my favourite spokes. Don't use ultra thin D/B or bladed spokes for your first wheels, tho' 2/1.8/2 mm spokes are great for ride quality and spoke longevity. Good rims are stiff and true out of the box. 420 grams is a good weight. Eyelets, with today's alloys, aren't strictly necessary. OCR, or OSB for the rear rim, especially if you are heavy, powerful, is a good idea. Check Ritchey/Velocity/Bontrager website for details. Ritchey catalogue is a .pdf download with good information. Ritchey Zero system hubs are also a really good idea for keeping the back wheel true, esp. if you use Campag drivetrains with their radical dishing of the rear wheel. I am not an ad for Ritchey, although I really like their product. I also really like DT spokes and hubs (Hugi is now incorporated). Mavic rims are good, but their lighter ones crack a bit more often then I'd like. Use really good rimtape. Velox/Zefal cloth sticky tape seems to be the best. Lube both the heads and threads of the nipple with chainlube after you have laced the wheel up, in the truing jig. Others use DriLube, or Spoke Prep, but all seem to work equally well. Dish the wheel (front and back), tighten, true, destress, check dish, tighten, true, destress, true, destress, final true is the rough order I use when building, then put the rimtape/tyre/tube/cassette on and go for a short ride. Have another look at the tension and roundness of the wheel after this. Retrue if necessary - you don't need to take the tyre off unless it is radically out of round. Tighten nipples up with a close fitting spoke-key. If you need to take them to a shop post first attempt, you will annoy the mechanic no end with rounded nipples. You may need to do this. Don't be bashful - we all need bailing out of our technical malfeasances at some stage Good on you for having a go. MH -- |
#8
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
"mfhor" wrote in message
... snip mfhor's cool wheel building tips Kingsley, do you think this should go in the faq? hippy |
#9
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
Originally posted by ritcho:
I'd like to give it a go Good deal. It's not nearly as hard to do as you'd think What components are ok My standard hubs are Campy Chorus. You'd prolly be best with Shimano 10 or Ultegra. I've always had joy sticking with major manufacturer hubs as they generally use better bearings Can't go past bog standard Mavic Open-pro rims (in silver). Tough relatively light, not especially expensive, and good to build with Failing them, any eyeletted rim is good I like 14/15 guage DT stainless spokes. I've also enjoyed using Sapim Go for butted spokes though, as they actually make a tougher (mor fatigue resistant) wheel than straight guage, and are lighter to boot Where did you buy 'em Hubs: Mailorder from UK or US. I like Deeside cycles in the UK, Sheldo (Harris) and Peter Chisholm (Vecchios) in the US. Generally the UK i cheaper, but the US guys can get obscure stuff for you (like my Suzu fixed hubs) I buy my rims and spokes locally, either from the LBS (Cheeky Monkey ar good eggs) or somewhere like Dean Woods or Phantom Cycles. Postage ca hurt on rims How much did it cost Hubs are from $150 to $400 odd for the pair. Rims are around $220 fo the pair, spokes about $100 odd for both wheels Looking at some online shops suggests ready-made wheels are prett competitive in price Ready made wheels typically have either not enough spokes (makes the cheaper to assemble) or poorly tensioned spokes. Hand made is _much better for wheels I have all the kit required; truing stand, linseed oil, spoke keys, etc plus have done perhaps twenty wheels over the years. If you like I ca help you assemble them Regards Suz - |
#10
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Anyone here built their own wheels?
wrote:
Good deal. It's not nearly as hard to do as you'd think. What components are ok? My standard hubs are Campy Chorus. You'd prolly be best with Shimano 105 or Ultegra. I've always had joy sticking with major manufacturer hubs, as they generally use better bearings. Just be really careful with hubs. Campag (only Septics say Campy - sounds like Queer Eye for the Straight Bike) are NOT, NEVER HAVE, AND WILL NEVER BE (and proud of it too) compatible with Shimano, except by accident (viz 9-speed wheels). Mavic hubs in their built-up wheels will allow a cassette body swapover, as will a few other brands. Check before purchase. Can't go past bog standard Mavic Open-pro rims (in silver). Tough, relatively light, not especially expensive, and good to build with. Failing them, any eyeletted rim is good. And some non-eyeletted: Ritchey, some Velocity, Ambrosio, Vuelta etc., Torricelli in the US are getting a good rap. I like 14/15 guage DT stainless spokes. I've also enjoyed using Sapim. Go for butted spokes though, as they actually make a tougher (more fatigue resistant) wheel than straight guage, and are lighter to boot. Where did you buy 'em? Hubs: Mailorder from UK or US. I like Deeside cycles in the UK, Sheldon (Harris) and Peter Chisholm (Vecchios) in the US. Generally the UK is cheaper, but the US guys can get obscure stuff for you (like my Suzue fixed hubs). I buy my rims and spokes locally, either from the LBS (Cheeky Monkey are good eggs) or somewhere like Dean Woods or Phantom Cycles. Postage can hurt on rims. How much did it cost? Hubs are from $150 to $400 odd for the pair. Rims are around $220 for the pair, spokes about $100 odd for both wheels. Looking at some online shops suggests ready-made wheels are pretty competitive in price. Ready made wheels typically have either not enough spokes (makes them cheaper to assemble) or poorly tensioned spokes. Hand made is _much_ better for wheels. Originally posted by suzyj Have to disagree with you there. A 16/20/24 spoke setup, or combination of the above patterns has to be built spot-on to survive. I normally recommend that anything less than 28 spokes only be used for weekend riding - racing or posing, whichever takes your fancy. Some of the high- end (expensive) ready-made wheels have been done on state of the art building machines, and finished off by hand by v.experienced builders. Seems like the Ritchey and Wheelcraft (Dirtworks) wheels are good value - performance for money (weight, wind resistance, build integrity, lack of brand-name bull****). Mid-price off the shelf wheels can be good value, if the components are OK - but they need to be retensioned before sale for maximum life. MH BTW - Spoke lube: linseed oil? Yuk. Not enough shear strength under compression loading. IM(H?)O. MH -- |
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