Advantages of Higher and Lower Gears?

In trying to get myself used to my large and heavy Dutch bike, Behemoth,
I have taken to practising for half an hour after lunch in the courtyard
of my office complex. I have a lot of difficulty starting Behemoth. With
her great flop-weight, she tends to keel over to the left before
reaching enough critical speed to stay upright. This problem is, of
course, exacerbated on uphill starts, including a particularly nasty one
at a traffic light on my way to work.

Since the area in the courtyard is flat, I have tried to imitate the
resistance of the uphill start by putting Behemoth into the top three of
her seven gears. Previously I have only ever touched gears five to seven
when rolling downhill on long stints with plenty of inertia already
behind me.

To my surprise, Behemoth seems generally more comfortable in those
higher gears. As I am obliged to put more weight on the seat and pedals,
the tension can come out of my hands and arms, and I get a more upright
posture with less pain in my wrists. The stiff downstroke lifts me
slightly out of my seat and adds suspension at knee level. I'm also
pushed farther back on the saddle so the distance to the pedal in
relation to the seat seems longer, one of my geometry problems with
Behemoth being that her pedal crank is too high for my comfort. It is
easier to see the starting stroke as "step onto the right pedal and
stand on it", a more effective strategy than "push down on right pedal
while scooting forward with left toe", which doesn't work on a gradient
where the left toe quickly loses contact.

But in cycling forums such as this one, the advice usually goes the
other way, towards "spinning" in low gear. In lower gears on Behemoth, I
tend to lose my pedals altogether - there is not enough friction in my
feet to hold them and they fly away behind me. She's also harder to
steer. Tipped more forward on the saddle, I get pains in crotch and
wrist.

I'm thinking, perhaps a _heavy_ bike like this needs the greater inertia
of the higher gears? Your spinning enthusiasts tend to be roadies on
vehicles that only weigh 7 kg - Behemoth is easily thrice as heavy.

In real life, I'm still using the lower gears for the uphill starts, but
perhaps I should cruise in higher gears than I am using currently?

Your thoughts. Why are "real" cyclists so keen on spinning?

EFR
Ile de France

In article ,

....

To my surprise, Behemoth seems generally more comfortable in those
higher gears. As I am obliged to put more weight on the seat and pedals,
the tension can come out of my hands and arms, and I get a more upright
posture with less pain in my wrists. The stiff downstroke lifts me
slightly out of my seat and adds suspension at knee level. I'm also
pushed farther back on the saddle so the distance to the pedal in
relation to the seat seems longer, one of my geometry problems with
Behemoth being that her pedal crank is too high for my comfort. It is
easier to see the starting stroke as "step onto the right pedal and
stand on it", a more effective strategy than "push down on right pedal
while scooting forward with left toe", which doesn't work on a gradient
where the left toe quickly loses contact.

But in cycling forums such as this one, the advice usually goes the
other way, towards "spinning" in low gear. In lower gears on Behemoth, I

"Spinning" is for getting better speed and endurance over long
distances, which is not really a consideration for you, and to reduce
the chance of knee problems, which isn't your main problem right now.
If you find that the low gears make it hard for you to control the bike
when starting up, then by all means use the higher ones. As you get
more comfortable handling the bike, you can then play with your gearing
to see what lets you ride longer distances while not getting tired. If
the pedal moves so easily that you can't keep your foot securely on the
pedal, you certainly need to use higher gears.

I find that, like you, I often start out better in a slightly higher
gear to give me something to stand on, and then when I'm up to speed
I'll adjust the gears to give me the pedaling cadence I want.

tend to lose my pedals altogether - there is not enough friction in my
feet to hold them and they fly away behind me. She's also harder to
steer. Tipped more forward on the saddle, I get pains in crotch and
wrist.

I'm thinking, perhaps a _heavy_ bike like this needs the greater inertia
of the higher gears? Your spinning enthusiasts tend to be roadies on
vehicles that only weigh 7 kg - Behemoth is easily thrice as heavy.

As I said above, spinning really only applies once you're up to speed.
Use whatever works for you when you are starting out from a stop.


In real life, I'm still using the lower gears for the uphill starts, but
perhaps I should cruise in higher gears than I am using currently?

Your thoughts. Why are "real" cyclists so keen on spinning?

It's for better speed and endurance, and less knee soreness over long
distances, and it's all relative to an individual's own physiology. For
some people, "spinning" is 80 rpm, while for others it's 110. Use
whatever pedaling speed works for you until you are comfortable in
pretty much any situation on your bike. Once you get to that point you
can worry about the fine points like cadence; until then ignore it.

--
Remove the ns_ from if replying by e-mail (but keep posts in the
newsgroups if possible).

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 16:34:10 +0200, Elisa Francesca Roselli
wrote:
I'm thinking, perhaps a _heavy_ bike like this needs the greater inertia
of the higher gears? Your spinning enthusiasts tend to be roadies on
vehicles that only weigh 7 kg - Behemoth is easily thrice as heavy.

It could be related to bicycle weight, but it's probably more of a
comfort issue. Balance isn't an issue for most people here, even
with heavily loaded bikes.

In real life, I'm still using the lower gears for the uphill starts, but
perhaps I should cruise in higher gears than I am using currently?

Absolutely. You should do what's most comfortable and easiest for
you. If a higher gear is easier because you can balance better, then
you've found an answer. If it helps your comfort, too, that's great.

Your thoughts. Why are "real" cyclists so keen on spinning?

Apparently, spinning fast works better for many/most. I tried to do
as everybody suggests for years, and randomly tried pedalling slower
in a higher gear one day; I suddenly found I could go faster and
longer and feel better. One size (or cadence) does not fit all.
--
Rick Onanian

"Elisa Francesca Roselli" wrote ...

snip excellent description of the relationship between gearing, rider
position, and biomechanics

I'm thinking, perhaps a _heavy_ bike like this needs the greater inertia
of the higher gears? Your spinning enthusiasts tend to be roadies on
vehicles that only weigh 7 kg - Behemoth is easily thrice as heavy.

In real life, I'm still using the lower gears for the uphill starts, but
perhaps I should cruise in higher gears than I am using currently?

Your thoughts. Why are "real" cyclists so keen on spinning?

EFR
Ile de France

"Real" cyclists are keen on spinning because it lets them ride long
distances with a high level of energy output without knee pain and without
premature buildup of lactic acid in the legs. A certain amount of training
and acclimatisation is required, however, before one can keep one's legs
spinning for long periods of time at 90-100 rpm, which is why so many "real"
cyclists monitor their pedaling speed with the cadence function on their
cycle computers. More utilitarian cyclists, such as the legions of cycle
commuters thronging Dutch cities, tend to ride at a much slower cadence,
simply because they don't always ride the long distances that "real"
cyclists ride, and don't have the inclination to train themselves to spin at
90-100 rpm. The higher cadence of a "real" cyclist is much better suited to
the "bent over", biomechanically efficient riding position of a "real"
cyclist than it is to the "sit up & beg" riding position of a commuter or
utilitarian cyclist. The "sit up & beg" position, on the other hand, makes
it much easier to watch for vehicle traffic, road signs, and pedestrians.
It's entirely possible that the builders of Behemoth expect her rider to use
a lower cadence and ride in a more upright position, and designed her
accordingly.

A utilitarian cyclist would argue that those clever folks who designed
Behemoth carefully considered the needs of the urban cyclist, allowing her
rider to sit in a comfortable, normal position and turn the pedals at a
sensible rate of speed, instead of being bent over like a pretzel and
spinning the pedals like a hamster on a wheel. A "real" cyclist would
respond that "those freds who designed behemoth have no clue about proper
riding position and you can't even get aerodynamic or spin properly on that
bike".

If higher gears, a lower cadence, and a "sit up & beg" riding position make
your commute more pleasant and comfortable, then by all means ride that way
and stop worrying about the details. If your knees start to hurt or if you
get the urge to ride longer distances at higher speeds, consider a more
technically correct, biomechanically efficient "real" bike.

BTW, none of my bikes weigh 7 kg. The lightest is closer to 9kg, and the
tourer is probably embarassingly close to Behemoth's weight, by the time I
install steel racks, fenders, and big fat tires for dirt roads.
--
mark

Thanks, all, for the common-sensical replies, which bear out my intuitions
about my dear Behemoth. Yes, she was certainly designed for commuting and
for a "sit up and beg" posture. I know that is not aerodynamic because when
the wind blows I take it like a great white clipper sail - yay, spotaneously
I bend forward over the handlebars. Transiting only 1.5 kms to work at the
moment, in problematic city traffic, my first worries are neither speed nor
knee pains, but it would be nice to be able to hold a lane. ;°)

So I'm glad I don't have to spin until I feel ready. Even on my exercycle in
front of the TV I only manage around 87 rpm, otherwise it gets too jiggly to
see the screen.

Off to London on Saturday. Mayor Livingstone has been heard to remark, in
his usual gentle style, that it would be a "miracle" if there were no major
terrorist attacks on that city in the next few weeks. Oh well...

EFR
Ile de France

When pedalling at high cadence it is important to turn the pedals as
regularly as possible, accompanying them in their whole circle. You can do
this only up to a given cadence, above which your legs have trouble
following and start "bouncing", and this doesn't help keep on a
straight line.
If you want to pedal at higher cadences (like the 90 rpm you say you get
to on your trainer), you should start from the one you are used to (say,
60 rpm) and increase cadence only progressively, keeping in mind to
describe nice smooth circles with your feet. Spin as fast as you can
maintain that smooth movement, but no faster, and get used to it. Then
maybe you can start turning faster.
Spinning is easier when your feet are somehow attached to the pedals (less
bouncing). I don't suppose you will install clipless pedals on Behemoth,
but you might consider toe clips; keep them very loose so you can get your
foot out easily; even so, they will help you keep your feet in place.

Jacques

On Wed, 31 Mar 2004 20:35:51 +0200, Jacques Moser wrote:

When pedalling at high cadence it is important to turn the pedals as
regularly as possible, accompanying them in their whole circle. You can do
this only up to a given cadence, above which your legs have trouble
following and start "bouncing", and this doesn't help keep on a straight
line.
If you want to pedal at higher cadences (like the 90 rpm you say you get
to on your trainer), you should start from the one you are used to (say,
60 rpm) and increase cadence only progressively, keeping in mind to
describe nice smooth circles with your feet. Spin as fast as you can
maintain that smooth movement, but no faster, and get used to it. Then
maybe you can start turning faster.
Spinning is easier when your feet are somehow attached to the pedals (less
bouncing). I don't suppose you will install clipless pedals on Behemoth,
but you might consider toe clips; keep them very loose so you can get your
foot out easily; even so, they will help you keep your feet in place.

Jacques

Happy coincidence: look at Luigi's answer in the "toe clips" thread just
below.

Hi Elisa,
You really have to experiment to find which gears work best for you.
Does your bike just have seven gears or a double or triple ring at the
front and seven speeds at the rear?

If you have a double or triple ring at the front to go the fastest
(but pedal the hardest) you'll want big ring at the front and little
ring at the back. When going uphill or against the wind you'll usually
want to pick an easier gear, and a harder gear when going downhill or
into the wind or when you've gotten good momentum going on the flat
ground.

Maybe a bike shop can help you with the geometry issues by making some
adjustments and possibly switching the stem.

By "spinning" this is when you pedal at a higher rpm in an easier
gear. But noone is suggesting this gear be easy enough that your
pedals are flying away on you. Some gears are really only needed for
very steep uphills. You don't want to pedal at too slow of an rpm
because it is a strain on the knees.

Personally I have recently switched my typical cruising gear to a
harder one. With more leg strength I find I can pedal it at almost the
same rate I used to pedal the easier gear in, hence my overall speed
is higher. I have a rate that I like to pedal at, so I don't find
switching to an easier gear and spinning faster to be effective.
You'll probably find your own natural preferred rate.

With my mountain bike with slicks turned city commuter, I find I
almost never use the smallest ring at the front. I also find that even
on flat ground if there's a nice tailwind I want to switch into a
harder gear - but I'm already at the max. Road bikes generally have
bigger gear ratios than mountain bikes.

Tanya

Elisa Francesca Roselli wrote in message ...
In trying to get myself used to my large and heavy Dutch bike, Behemoth,
I have taken to practising for half an hour after lunch in the courtyard
of my office complex. I have a lot of difficulty starting Behemoth. With
her great flop-weight, she tends to keel over to the left before
reaching enough critical speed to stay upright. This problem is, of
course, exacerbated on uphill starts, including a particularly nasty one
at a traffic light on my way to work.

Since the area in the courtyard is flat, I have tried to imitate the
resistance of the uphill start by putting Behemoth into the top three of
her seven gears. Previously I have only ever touched gears five to seven
when rolling downhill on long stints with plenty of inertia already
behind me.

To my surprise, Behemoth seems generally more comfortable in those
higher gears. As I am obliged to put more weight on the seat and pedals,
the tension can come out of my hands and arms, and I get a more upright
posture with less pain in my wrists. The stiff downstroke lifts me
slightly out of my seat and adds suspension at knee level. I'm also
pushed farther back on the saddle so the distance to the pedal in
relation to the seat seems longer, one of my geometry problems with
Behemoth being that her pedal crank is too high for my comfort. It is
easier to see the starting stroke as "step onto the right pedal and
stand on it", a more effective strategy than "push down on right pedal
while scooting forward with left toe", which doesn't work on a gradient
where the left toe quickly loses contact.

But in cycling forums such as this one, the advice usually goes the
other way, towards "spinning" in low gear. In lower gears on Behemoth, I
tend to lose my pedals altogether - there is not enough friction in my
feet to hold them and they fly away behind me. She's also harder to
steer. Tipped more forward on the saddle, I get pains in crotch and
wrist.

I'm thinking, perhaps a _heavy_ bike like this needs the greater inertia
of the higher gears? Your spinning enthusiasts tend to be roadies on
vehicles that only weigh 7 kg - Behemoth is easily thrice as heavy.

In real life, I'm still using the lower gears for the uphill starts, but
perhaps I should cruise in higher gears than I am using currently?

Your thoughts. Why are "real" cyclists so keen on spinning?

EFR
Ile de France

"Elisa Francesca Roselli"
wrote in message ...
It is
easier to see the starting stroke as "step onto the right pedal and
stand on it", a more effective strategy than "push down on right pedal
while scooting forward with left toe",

I'm sure this observation brought a smile to dozens of faces in this group
familiar with your struggle. Indeed, this is the best way to start.

Congrats,
Matthew

Matthew

Elisa Francesca Roselli wrote:

To my surprise, Behemoth seems generally more comfortable
in those higher gears. As I am obliged to put more weight
on the seat and pedals, the tension can come out of my
hands and arms, and I get a more upright posture with
less pain in my wrists. The stiff downstroke lifts me
slightly out of my seat and adds suspension at knee
level.

To maintain my comfort level pedaling, I try to maintain a constant amount
of pedaling force, rather than a constant cadence. At slower speeds,
whether I am tired or just obliged to travel slowly for some reason, I am
usually in a higher gear than if I am moving quickly, all other things
being equal.

This does seem odd at first, but it works for me for all the reasons
you've mentioned. Pushing a taller gear at slow speeds lets me put enough
of my weight over the pedals to save my butt from discomfort, without
having to maintain a high speed or energy output. Pushing a lower gear at
high speeds lets me spin a lot of energy into the pedals without straining
my knees. I don't know much about racing or training, but IMHO I do go
pretty fast :-)

I am an everyday cyclist, I ride for transportation as well as recreation,
in all sorts of weather and on all sorts of roads. My bikes are assembled
mostly from parts I have rescued from the trash, and have geometries as
varied as the conditions I ride in (unfortunately they're all heavy haha).
At any given time, I could be in just about any gear pedaling at just
about any cadence.