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#1
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How does I fix these cranks?
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The
non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html |
#2
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote:
Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc Probably easier to view that than explain in words. You only need the special BB tool and ratchet driver or adjustable spanner, and an 8 mm hex key. If the bearings are stuffed, you might need something to help removal and replacement. I didn't see if they are just pressed into the cups or on the axle. Be a little careful with the cups as they are likely Al and may be damaged if you need to knock the bearing out with a hammer punch. If there are torque recommendations, try to work to them. If you don't have a torque wrench, estimate kilograms or pounds of force on the end of a spanner to achieve close to the correct torque. I.e. 90 Nm is approx 9 kg over 1 meter, or 18 kg over 500 mm, or 36 kg over 250 mm. -- JS. |
#3
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How does I fix these cranks?
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#4
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote: Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc I have an arbor press and torque wrenches. Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost huge sums of money. This is the only drop-in I have found so far- http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0#ReviewHeader (FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset) The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm. |
#5
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote: Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc I have an arbor press and torque wrenches. Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost huge sums of money. This is the only drop-in I have found so far- http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0#ReviewHeader (FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset) The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm. Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before trying to find replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new. How does $20 sound? http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id228.html It seems the bearings are pressed into the Al housing that screws into the frame. I don't have this type of BB, so I'm only going off what I just read in a forum and from the youtube video. Some mention heating the Al (and cooling the bearing) to help press it out. http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-sh...gs-589495.html I would be taking it apart and trying to find out the root cause of the problem. Note that to remove the cranks and axle, you should only need an 8 mm hex key I think. From there you could stick your finger in and feel the bearings, to try to detect wear, slop or roughness. -- JS. |
#6
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote:
On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote: Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc I have an arbor press and torque wrenches. Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost huge sums of money. This is the only drop-in I have found so far- http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0#ReviewHeader (FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset) The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm. Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before trying to find replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new. I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings. The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and not ever supposed to come loose. Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but I don't even care to try. Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was another one of them. If this would fit in- http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...acket-1203.htm then there's a few cheaper crank choices available. |
#7
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How does I fix these cranks?
On 25/09/12 13:15, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote: Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc I have an arbor press and torque wrenches. Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost huge sums of money. This is the only drop-in I have found so far- http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0#ReviewHeader (FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset) The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm. Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before trying to find replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new. I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings. The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and not ever supposed to come loose. Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but I don't even care to try. Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was another one of them. Ooo - that's not good. Yes, it sounds like a replacement is the way to go. If this would fit in- http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...acket-1203.htm then there's a few cheaper crank choices available. From the tech manual on this page http://www.sram.com/service/truvativ/42 it would seem that yours is likely 68 mm. Measure to be sure, and then I would suspect the Shimano BB you linked to above would fit. Careful of Italian v English threads, and make sure to get one with a long enough axle to space the crank set far enough from the frame. Mr. A. Muzi will likely have some suggestions for you. To install the Shimano BB you will need a special tool, and to remove the cranks in the future a different tool. -- JS. |
#8
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How does I fix these cranks?
On Mon, 24 Sep 2012 22:15:13 -0500, Doug Cimperman
wrote: On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote: Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...s/loose01.html Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc I have an arbor press and torque wrenches. Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost huge sums of money. This is the only drop-in I have found so far- http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...0#ReviewHeader (FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset) The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm. Whoa! I thought you wanted to fix what you have? Before trying to find replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've got. It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new. I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings. The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and not ever supposed to come loose. Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but I don't even care to try. Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was another one of them. If this would fit in- http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...acket-1203.htm then there's a few cheaper crank choices available. Sorry, I previously posted a suggestion to change the bearings. It is likely that you have the usual "English" thread in the BB but to be sure take a bearing housing with you when you go shopping. The older style, one piece, BB's are made in various axle lengths, which have an effect on the chain line. It also varies on whether you use a one, two or three chain ring crank. To install the one piece BB takes a special wrench and there seem to be several different tools available - few, if any, are interchangeable. Once you get the BB installed there are at least two different tapers used so the new cranks will need to match the BB. You can put them on with common hand tools but you a "crank puller" to get them off. To be blunt, if you don't have the tools and you don't have the experience this is likely a job that you would be better off to have done for you. I would assume that if you bought the new BB and crank set from a shop that installation would be minimal, or free. -- Cheers, John B. |
#9
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How does I fix these cranks?
On Sep 24, 8:15*pm, Doug Cimperman wrote:
On 9/24/2012 9:54 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 12:25, Doug Cimperman wrote: On 9/24/2012 6:03 PM, James wrote: On 25/09/12 08:41, Doug Cimperman wrote: Today I see the drive-side crank here is loose on the spindle. The non-drive side moves a much smaller bit, that appears to be the bearing play (it could probably use new bearings anyway). I never much got into bicycle mechanics really, so what [special] tools would I need to get this thing apart, and what kind of crank is it exactly? (to get a replacement, if it can't just be tightened up,,,) \ The spindle is a tube that runs almost all the way through from the drive side, to the non-drive side.... http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...ies/recumbent/.... Looks similar to this? http://www.sram.com/truvativ/products/truvativ-gxp-bb A quick google search yields.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RB1wcwlmsRc I have an arbor press and torque wrenches. Is it possible to install a square-taper BB into the frame? I'm not finding much available in the road 130/74 category that doesn't cost huge sums of money. This is the only drop-in I have found so far- http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product..._-1___202430#R.... (FSA Gossamer MegaExo Triple Crankset) The other two are square-taper, one is 118 and one is 122mm. Whoa! *I thought you wanted to fix what you have? *Before trying to find replacements, I'd be looking to find out what's wrong with what you've got. *It's quite possibly just a pair of bearings away from good as new. I can already see that it's not (only) the bearings. The left crank (that bolts on) is still solid on the spindle. The right crank is loose on the spindle--and it is the one that's glued on, and not ever supposed to come loose. Somebody on bikeforums says it's sometimes possible to re-glue them, but I don't even care to try. Also I see many reports of BB30's being noisy......... and mine was another one of them. If this would fit in-http://harriscyclery.net/product/shimano-68mm-un55-cartridge-bottom-b... then there's a few cheaper crank choices available. You don't have a BB 30 from what I can see. You have a conventional outboard bearing BB and a two piece crank (a crank with a "built in" spindle). You can remove the old bearing cups and install a threaded BB of the appropriate dimension and a new square drive crank, if that's the direction you want to go. Check to make sure it is a 68mm and not a 72mm BB shell width (I can't tell from the picture whether it is a road bike or mountain bike). Tools required to remove the old crank would include a hex wrench and an outboard bearing wrench -- which would not be worth purchasing if you are abandoning outboard bearings. You would also need a new BB wrench for the new cartridge, which would only cost a few bucks. I would certainly go back to the seller to see if you can get a warranty replacement for the crank. The spindle should not loosen. -- Jay Beattie. |
#10
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How does I fix these cranks?
there's a conversion post in the links I sent preceeding...
try Universal Cycles...callem... avoid square tapirs |
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