14 year-old Campy Record shifts like new...

On Tue, 9 May 2017 05:21:56 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 4:06:01 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it.


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

Which confirms my statement that the headset locknut was not installed correctly.

Cheers

It is difficult to see how it can be some esoteric problem that only
effects one specific bicycle when there are literally millions of
bicycles with the old faithful 1 inch headset. And, it might be noted
that Shimano appears to be a pretty resourceful company and seems to
market no, or at least very, very, few failed designs.

On the other hand, there are those who apparently prefer to do things
the hard way, like knocking down fences to get a nail to remove a
rivet in a chain using a rock as a hammer... when one can buy a chain
tool that is about 3 inches by 3 inches in size and weighs only an
ounce or two.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 5/9/2017 8:00 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 9 May 2017 05:21:56 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 4:06:01 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it.


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

Which confirms my statement that the headset locknut was not installed correctly.

Cheers

It is difficult to see how it can be some esoteric problem that only
effects one specific bicycle when there are literally millions of
bicycles with the old faithful 1 inch headset. And, it might be noted
that Shimano appears to be a pretty resourceful company and seems to
market no, or at least very, very, few failed designs.

On the other hand, there are those who apparently prefer to do things
the hard way, like knocking down fences to get a nail to remove a
rivet in a chain using a rock as a hammer... when one can buy a chain
tool that is about 3 inches by 3 inches in size and weighs only an
ounce or two.

While you're right generally,I would opine that Shimano has
a decided bent toward innovation and their list of failures
is at least equal to their successes. That's not a bad thing
IMHO, as human advancement comes from crazy people, some of
whom work at Shimano.

The scallop-top headsets were top quality, well priced,
durable and backward-compatible to standard 32mm wrenches.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it.


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost impossible to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long. Like yours it will appear to tighten up because it will bend just enough to appear to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve your problem.

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 9:15:11 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/9/2017 8:00 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 9 May 2017 05:21:56 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 4:06:01 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette..
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it..


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

Which confirms my statement that the headset locknut was not installed correctly.

Cheers

It is difficult to see how it can be some esoteric problem that only
effects one specific bicycle when there are literally millions of
bicycles with the old faithful 1 inch headset. And, it might be noted
that Shimano appears to be a pretty resourceful company and seems to
market no, or at least very, very, few failed designs.

On the other hand, there are those who apparently prefer to do things
the hard way, like knocking down fences to get a nail to remove a
rivet in a chain using a rock as a hammer... when one can buy a chain
tool that is about 3 inches by 3 inches in size and weighs only an
ounce or two.

While you're right generally,I would opine that Shimano has
a decided bent toward innovation and their list of failures
is at least equal to their successes. That's not a bad thing
IMHO, as human advancement comes from crazy people, some of
whom work at Shimano.

The scallop-top headsets were top quality, well priced,
durable and backward-compatible to standard 32mm wrenches.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Pls they had that neat plastic cup that covered the entire headset stack above the steerer tube.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shimano-AX-AE...AOxyHQlSE78 i

Cheers

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 9:23:27 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 1:06:01 AM UTC-7, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette..
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it..


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

I'll bet that this is what Joerg's problem is. It's almost impossible to tell a steering tube that's fractionally too long. Like yours it will appear to tighten up because it will bend just enough to appear to be tight. Then the extra pressure will cause it to loosen up.

Got that Joerg? Try a small washer and see if that doesn't solve your problem.

He prefers his hose clamp kludge. LOL

Cheers

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 6:27:05 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 9:15:11 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/9/2017 8:00 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 9 May 2017 05:21:56 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 4:06:01 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it.


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails.

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

Which confirms my statement that the headset locknut was not installed correctly.

Cheers

It is difficult to see how it can be some esoteric problem that only
effects one specific bicycle when there are literally millions of
bicycles with the old faithful 1 inch headset. And, it might be noted
that Shimano appears to be a pretty resourceful company and seems to
market no, or at least very, very, few failed designs.

On the other hand, there are those who apparently prefer to do things
the hard way, like knocking down fences to get a nail to remove a
rivet in a chain using a rock as a hammer... when one can buy a chain
tool that is about 3 inches by 3 inches in size and weighs only an
ounce or two.

While you're right generally,I would opine that Shimano has
a decided bent toward innovation and their list of failures
is at least equal to their successes. That's not a bad thing
IMHO, as human advancement comes from crazy people, some of
whom work at Shimano.

The scallop-top headsets were top quality, well priced,
durable and backward-compatible to standard 32mm wrenches.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Pls they had that neat plastic cup that covered the entire headset stack above the steerer tube.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shimano-AX-AE...AOxyHQlSE78 i

Cheers

And NO ONE ever used those things. That's why someone has a stock of them. They were left off of each assembly.

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 9:32:43 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 6:27:05 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 9:15:11 AM UTC-4, AMuzi wrote:
On 5/9/2017 8:00 AM, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 9 May 2017 05:21:56 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 4:06:01 AM UTC-4, John B. wrote:
On Mon, 8 May 2017 19:27:20 -0700 (PDT), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:10:59 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Mon, 08 May 2017 11:52:58 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-05-08 10:55, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 10:56:11 AM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-05-08 04:26, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette.
Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier)
stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than
abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it
including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it.


And if that choice words deleted scalloped headset shakes loose all
the time there is a solution which works to this day on my road bike:

http://www.analogconsultants.com/ng/bike/Hoseclamp.JPG


I have NEVER needed to resort to the use of a hoseclamp on any headset on any of my bicycles.


You probably only ride on fairly smooth asphalt. I have a share of dirt
and other rough turf during most of my rides. The countering action of
the top nut just ain't sufficient for that no matter how hard it is torqued.

A small drop of LocTite will solve that and it won't cut your finger
like a hoser clamp.


At some point in time either you or a shop did something that knackered your top nut on your 600EX headset.


I am not the only one who has that problem. Except the others eventually
didn't have the bikes anymore, which "fixed" it for them. I keep
technical things for a long time.

Anyhow, the hose clamp fixes it for me. When I get around to it I'll put
in a new non-600 headset.

I wonder if someone over tightened Joerg's 600EX headset top nut and stripped it? Or if he has the right top nut on it? ANyhow, lots of them were sold and lots of them were used without Joerg's problem showing up. Joerg seems to think that he's the ONLY ONE who rides a road bike on trails..

Cheers

Actually I have had the same problem that Joerg has. Adjust and
tighten the steering bearings and in a few days the bearings would be
loose.

A little investigation showed that the top nut instead of bottoming
out on the upper bearing race and locking it, it was bottoming out on
a very slightly too long steerer tube. I added a washer, perhaps 3/32"
thick so the top nut actually tightened against the bearing race and
have had no more problems in the last couple of years :-)

--
Cheers,

John B.

Which confirms my statement that the headset locknut was not installed correctly.

Cheers

It is difficult to see how it can be some esoteric problem that only
effects one specific bicycle when there are literally millions of
bicycles with the old faithful 1 inch headset. And, it might be noted
that Shimano appears to be a pretty resourceful company and seems to
market no, or at least very, very, few failed designs.

On the other hand, there are those who apparently prefer to do things
the hard way, like knocking down fences to get a nail to remove a
rivet in a chain using a rock as a hammer... when one can buy a chain
tool that is about 3 inches by 3 inches in size and weighs only an
ounce or two.

While you're right generally,I would opine that Shimano has
a decided bent toward innovation and their list of failures
is at least equal to their successes. That's not a bad thing
IMHO, as human advancement comes from crazy people, some of
whom work at Shimano.

The scallop-top headsets were top quality, well priced,
durable and backward-compatible to standard 32mm wrenches.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Pls they had that neat plastic cup that covered the entire headset stack above the steerer tube.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Shimano-AX-AE...AOxyHQlSE78 i

Cheers

And NO ONE ever used those things. That's why someone has a stock of them.. They were left off of each assembly.

Gee whiz, I wonder what that clear plastc cover is on my Dura Axe AX headset and on my 600EX Arabesque headset?

Actually old boy, a lot of people DID use them. Just because someting is available NOS on Ebay does NOT mean no one used them.

Cheers

On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 7:06:57 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 4:26:18 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh.

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. I even have a number of NOS Uniglidge cassettes for it. I also have another bicycle with Duara Ace AX on itthat's still going strong. I just adore the stopping power of those brakes. Plus those brakes are the absolute easiest brakes to center if they should ever get knocked off center = just hold the center section of the brake caliper and move it to the centered position = no fuss no bother. My bicycle with the New 600 groupset still shifts flawlessly to. I think thatthe old stuff had a lot less that could go wrong with it in the shifting department.

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 9:38:16 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 7:06:57 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 4:26:18 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh..

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. I even have a number of NOS Uniglidge cassettes for it. I also have another bicycle with Duara Ace AX on itthat's still going strong. I just adore the stopping power of those brakes.. Plus those brakes are the absolute easiest brakes to center if they should ever get knocked off center = just hold the center section of the brake caliper and move it to the centered position = no fuss no bother. My bicycle with the New 600 groupset still shifts flawlessly to. I think thatthe old stuff had a lot less that could go wrong with it in the shifting department.

Cheers

The old groups only had to shift five or six speeds and the downtube shifters had a straight shot at the derailers. Everything was built very strongly in comparison to what we have today and all of the parts were metal without sections of them being made out of plastic and then covered with carbon cloth and entitled "Carbon Fiber".

It's no surprise that not only have they survived but they still work almost as well as new.

A Campagnolo NR derailleur working "as well as new" is not something I want. No way I would ever go back to DT friction shifting.

Classic bikes were boat anchors, and like boat anchors, they were mostly indestructible -- unless you were riding Ergal rims or early Ti anything and unless you broke a NR crank. I broke five or six. I would wear out Campy cup and cone BBs. I broke a Phil BB just before a big event, which really ****ed me off. The center collar on the hollow axle failed. Oro freewheels would crap out. Everything was not sunshine, rainbows and indestructible.. Less destructible than today, but also less efficient.

I was at one of my son's races on Saturday in Salt Lake, and holy crap people spend money on bikes these days. There are a lot of worthy racing bikes in the $3K range, but it was hard to find a set of wheels that cost less than that at the race. The old dude masters were dumping boat loads of dough on their bikes -- and apparently masters' doping is a thing in SLC. They are super competitive.

Anyway, I was surprised to see lots of racing bikes with cogs up to 28t. What? I raced on 42/52 and 19t and maybe 21t back in the day. Racers now spin up hills instead of grinding, and on the flats they fly in giant gears. Racers ride differently than we did in the 70s (and before). The olde tyme 5-6sp stuff just doesn't cut it these days.

Presently I don't have enough riding in for the year but I'm a "grinder".

What I see when I'm in condition is that those who are spinning are gaining almost no advantage because they have increase motion of the legs so they are adding the weight of the muscles. In lower gears for every rotation of the cranks I go much further. So I have looked up the hill and seen people a quarter of a mile away and run them down in a half mile simply by having a much higher top speed in my lower gear.

When you are spinning you definitely have a limited top speed. And if you keep going up in gears to speed up you also end up grinding.

On Tuesday, May 9, 2017 at 12:38:16 PM UTC-4, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 7:06:57 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Monday, May 8, 2017 at 4:26:18 AM UTC-7, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Sunday, May 7, 2017 at 3:53:29 PM UTC-4, Robert Latest wrote:
...after I properly re-sorted the spacers in the rear cassette. Duh..

robert

It's pretty amazing how well a lot of the 1980s (or a lot earlier) stuff still works if it's maintained reasnonably well rather than abused. I have a bicycle with the old Shimano 600 EX stuff on it including the scallop headset and I never have problems with it. I even have a number of NOS Uniglidge cassettes for it. I also have another bicycle with Duara Ace AX on itthat's still going strong. I just adore the stopping power of those brakes.. Plus those brakes are the absolute easiest brakes to center if they should ever get knocked off center = just hold the center section of the brake caliper and move it to the centered position = no fuss no bother. My bicycle with the New 600 groupset still shifts flawlessly to. I think thatthe old stuff had a lot less that could go wrong with it in the shifting department.

Cheers

The old groups only had to shift five or six speeds and the downtube shifters had a straight shot at the derailers. Everything was built very strongly in comparison to what we have today and all of the parts were metal without sections of them being made out of plastic and then covered with carbon cloth and entitled "Carbon Fiber".

It's no surprise that not only have they survived but they still work almost as well as new.

A Campagnolo NR derailleur working "as well as new" is not something I want. No way I would ever go back to DT friction shifting.

Classic bikes were boat anchors, and like boat anchors, they were mostly indestructible -- unless you were riding Ergal rims or early Ti anything and unless you broke a NR crank. I broke five or six. I would wear out Campy cup and cone BBs. I broke a Phil BB just before a big event, which really ****ed me off. The center collar on the hollow axle failed. Oro freewheels would crap out. Everything was not sunshine, rainbows and indestructible.. Less destructible than today, but also less efficient.

I was at one of my son's races on Saturday in Salt Lake, and holy crap people spend money on bikes these days. There are a lot of worthy racing bikes in the $3K range, but it was hard to find a set of wheels that cost less than that at the race. The old dude masters were dumping boat loads of dough on their bikes -- and apparently masters' doping is a thing in SLC. They are super competitive.

Anyway, I was surprised to see lots of racing bikes with cogs up to 28t. What? I raced on 42/52 and 19t and maybe 21t back in the day. Racers now spin up hills instead of grinding, and on the flats they fly in giant gears. Racers ride differently than we did in the 70s (and before). The olde tyme 5-6sp stuff just doesn't cut it these days.

-- Jay Beattie.

Sorry, but if you're NOT a racer then a lot of that Old School Stuff is still good to use these days. A lt of non-fitness or non-racing riders today do have not developed the finesse to tell much from Old School Stuff and modern stuff.

Cheers