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#111
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/17/2017 6:17 AM, DougC wrote:
On 5/10/2017 9:56 PM, sms wrote: On 5/10/2017 5:44 PM, DougC wrote: snip I can make mounts too but don't really wanna. Yeah, I make mounts. Not because I really wanna, but because I can make mounts that are a lot better than what is commercially available. I use the Maglite Delrin clamps on a piece of aluminum flat bar mounted to an aluminum or steel clamp for the bars. Well it looks like I'll be making mounts after all. The most-capable-looking ones on Amazon don't look like they're going to do too well here. While I am careful with flimsy plastic stuff, I know that my wife and children are probably more of the "if it jams force it, if it breaks it needed replacing anyway" mindset. Many bicycle accessories are not of a robust design, and flop around, fall off, come loose, are not adjustable, etc. Additionally, for a light, you not only want something that's secure, but where it is easy to remove the light when you park the bicycle out of your sight, without straps to undo or rubber bands to lose. It the handlebars are angled or curved you also need to take that into account so the light can be properly aimed. Even on handlebar or tubing mount accessories with a steel or aluminum clamp, they will usually use rubber spacers that don't stay in place well. I put heat shrink tubing over these clamps since it does stay in place, and you just add layers to get the necessary thickness. Threadlock is also your friend. |
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#112
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/16/2017 2:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
I've been conducting something of an experiment to see just how bad Chinese 18650 cells are. Have you seen http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?117117-Li-Ion-Battery-Shoot-Out LG 2400 mAH tested at 2243mAH Tenergy 2200 mAH tested at 2163mAH Samsung 2800 mAH tested at 2524mAH And this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42488 where at 1C the Tenergy 2600 mAH tested at 2532 mAH They didn't test the Tenergy 2600 that Fry's often has on sale for $4.99, but I suspect that since the Tenergy 2200 was very close to its rated capacity that their 2600 will be close as well. But even that's not much of a deal since you can buy LG or Sanyo/Panasonic 3500 mAH, button-top, protected 18650 cells for less than $8. https://liionwholesale.com/products/protected-lg-mj1-18650-battery-genuine-tested-10a-3500mah-button-top-wholesale-discount?variant=12530399684 https://liionwholesale.com/products/protected-panasonic-sanyo-ncr18650ga-button-top?variant=12534255236 That's 12.6WH in a single 18650 cell for $8. Four Eneloop 2550mAH NiMH cells would be 12.2WH and cost $18.75 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSL28. The other big advantage of the 18650 based lights is that you can usually charge them inside the light with a USB cable and USB charger, you don't need to take out two or three or four individual cells and futz with an external charger. Or for those long distance tourers you could charge if from a dynamo (though most of the Li-Ion based lights with internal chargers don't let you charge it while it's on). There's a good reason why light manufacturers abandoned AA powered lights and a good reason why camera manufacturers abandoned AA powered cameras; ditto for cell phones. |
#113
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/17/2017 8:05 AM, sms wrote:
And this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42488 where at 1C the Tenergy 2600 mAH tested at 2532 mAH oops. forgot to delete this, they did test it) They didn't test the Tenergy 2600 that Fry's often has on sale for $4.99, but I suspect that since the Tenergy 2200 was very close to its rated capacity that their 2600 will be close as well. |
#114
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
18650 cells are Lion's answer to NiMH ? |
#115
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/17/2017 9:17 AM, DougC wrote:
On 5/10/2017 9:56 PM, sms wrote: On 5/10/2017 5:44 PM, DougC wrote: snip I can make mounts too but don't really wanna. Yeah, I make mounts. Not because I really wanna, but because I can make mounts that are a lot better than what is commercially available. I use the Maglite Delrin clamps on a piece of aluminum flat bar mounted to an aluminum or steel clamp for the bars. Well it looks like I'll be making mounts after all. The most-capable-looking ones on Amazon don't look like they're going to do too well here. Some of us will be interested in what you come up with, if you care to share. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#116
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On Wed, 17 May 2017 08:17:42 -0500, DougC
wrote: On 5/10/2017 9:56 PM, sms wrote: On 5/10/2017 5:44 PM, DougC wrote: snip I can make mounts too but don't really wanna. Yeah, I make mounts. Not because I really wanna, but because I can make mounts that are a lot better than what is commercially available. I use the Maglite Delrin clamps on a piece of aluminum flat bar mounted to an aluminum or steel clamp for the bars. Well it looks like I'll be making mounts after all. The most-capable-looking ones on Amazon don't look like they're going to do too well here. Try this Google image search to see what's available in aluminum: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=+aluminum+bicycle+handlebar+head light+clamps I don't think plastic is strong enough unless you reinforce it with metal inserts. If it can be tightened by hand, it can be done better with a tool. That leaves aluminum clamps, which methinks will work the best. One possible problem is the rubber cushion often inserted between the clamp and the handlebar. Often, it's rather thick to deal with the difference between 25.4, 26.0, and 31.8mm diameter bars. With a thick rubber shim, you'll never get it tight enough to keep it in place and not vibrate. Therefore cut the aluminum clamp for the correct size handlebars and use a minimally thin sheet of rubber or plastic. Another purpose of the rubber shim is to prevent the clamp from gouging the handlebar. This is a typical case of the design causing a problem that is somewhat fixed with a rubber band-aid. For example, the teeth in this crude abomination: https://img.banggood.com/thumb/water/oaupload/banggood/images/6A/5A/6c3c7474-dbda-4588-9aa3-d5783d8df954.jpg are guaranteed to gouge your handlebars, no matter what you use for a rubber shim. It will rotate, because the entire contact area is in the tips of the serrations. To get a good grip, they should have designed for more surface area, which means no teeth. Teeth work only if the mating surface also has teeth or matching serrations, such as in a stem to handlebar clamp. For mating with the flat surface of a handlebar, you want another flat surface. Some random ideas: 1. Make the clamp symmetrical so that you can simultaneously mount something both on top and on the bottom of the clamp assembly. 2. If you're going to remove and reinstall the clamp often, don't thread the aluminum. Use steel PEM inserts instead, which should last longer. 3. If you want security, design it to be either very easy to be removed, or a nightmare of exotic and inaccessible screws. http://atomic22.com https://www.bicyclebolts.com 4. Test the clamps grip with a simple torque tester to see if it meets your expectations. Attach a stiff arm and tension scale to the clamp. Pull and calculate the torque (ft-lbs or Newton-meters) where the clamp starts to slip. Compare with other clamps. Good luck. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#117
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On Wed, 17 May 2017 08:05:51 -0700, sms
wrote: On 5/16/2017 2:38 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: I've been conducting something of an experiment to see just how bad Chinese 18650 cells are. Have you seen http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?117117-Li-Ion-Battery-Shoot-Out Yes, but it's a rather old. This is much better: http://www.lygte-info.dk http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php Please note that the graphs that I used for my tests were at very different constant current levels. Capacity ratings will be very different at different current levels. The only reason I haven't bothered to verify the advertised capacities is that the tests are done at 0.2C, which could easily take overnight. So, I do my tests at approximate operating currents, which produce much lower capacity numbers. This also means that I refuse to accept any capacity ratings or alleged tests without the test conditions (constant current or constant load levels) being specified. And this http://budgetlightforum.com/node/42488 where at 1C the Tenergy 2600 mAH tested at 2532 mAH Note that the author runs http://www.lygte-info.dk. More battery test results: http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/CommonAAIndividualTest%20UK.html They didn't test the Tenergy 2600 that Fry's often has on sale for $4.99, but I suspect that since the Tenergy 2200 was very close to its rated capacity that their 2600 will be close as well. Very nice and a good price. I overpaid $8/ea for some Panasonic cells, which I use as my sanity check and test reference. But even that's not much of a deal since you can buy LG or Sanyo/Panasonic 3500 mAH, button-top, protected 18650 cells for less than $8. https://liionwholesale.com/products/protected-lg-mj1-18650-battery-genuine-tested-10a-3500mah-button-top-wholesale-discount?variant=12530399684 https://liionwholesale.com/products/protected-panasonic-sanyo-ncr18650ga-button-top?variant=12534255236 Yes, but are they real Panasonic and Sanyo? Much of what I see are obvious and not-so-obvious counterfeits. https://spinfuel.com/counterfeit-18650-batteries-everywhere/ As I found out the hard way, paying a high price for a "real" cell is not a guarantee that the cell is genuine. That's 12.6WH in a single 18650 cell for $8. Four Eneloop 2550mAH NiMH cells would be 12.2WH and cost $18.75 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHKSL28. The other big advantage of the 18650 based lights is that you can usually charge them inside the light with a USB cable and USB charger, you don't need to take out two or three or four individual cells and futz with an external charger. Or for those long distance tourers you could charge if from a dynamo (though most of the Li-Ion based lights with internal chargers don't let you charge it while it's on). There's a good reason why light manufacturers abandoned AA powered lights and a good reason why camera manufacturers abandoned AA powered cameras; ditto for cell phones. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#119
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
On 5/17/2017 10:06 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 17 May 2017 08:17:42 -0500, DougC wrote: On 5/10/2017 9:56 PM, sms wrote: On 5/10/2017 5:44 PM, DougC wrote: snip I can make mounts too but don't really wanna. Yeah, I make mounts. Not because I really wanna, but because I can make mounts that are a lot better than what is commercially available. I use the Maglite Delrin clamps on a piece of aluminum flat bar mounted to an aluminum or steel clamp for the bars. Well it looks like I'll be making mounts after all. The most-capable-looking ones on Amazon don't look like they're going to do too well here. Try this Google image search to see what's available in aluminum: https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=+aluminum+bicycle+handlebar+head light+clamps I've used this one http://www.dx.com/p/447307. One possible problem is the rubber cushion often inserted between the clamp and the handlebar. Often, it's rather thick to deal with the difference between 25.4, 26.0, and 31.8mm diameter bars. With a thick rubber shim, you'll never get it tight enough to keep it in place and not vibrate. Therefore cut the aluminum clamp for the correct size handlebars and use a minimally thin sheet of rubber or plastic. I SPIT on those rubber shims! Use heat shrink tubing on the clamp. |
#120
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Is there any good non-rechargeable headlights anymore?
AE6KS
http://www.bing.com/search?q=energiz...RM=QBLH &sp=3 prob solved. Lieb for a try buy NiMH n device n drain NiMH n recharge recharge ....... n tell us if the NiMH works. Hmmmm you did that before right ? previously care to reiterate ? even with energizer on board as the last energizer rechargables here were a total floppo. BTW, all my devices are AA or AAA ....ceptin' the Samsung G5 .... the truck has a custom Odyssey for engine, 2 spiral Optimas and the replaced Odyssey for aux power. Optimas are recharged with proprietary Ctek chargers. I guess Ciperman doahn like Cateyes |
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