Chain-lubing technique

Andrew Muzi

www.yellowjersey.org/

Open every day since 1 April, 1971

a biggie on the DIY FAQ is:

HOW DO I AVOID PEOPLE LIKE CHAIN L ?

On 9/4/2012 1:16 AM, James wrote:
[...] but I avoid wet weather avidly.[...]

My Avid disc brakes work just fine in wet weather.

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Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731°N, 83.985007°W
Post Free or Die!

In article 3c2e37ae-ded9-41a8-b6cc-
,
says...


I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals
on
the wheel or the frame. I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). So the cleaning part I can do. It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike
shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. The same for pictures in the bike maintenance
and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).

The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use
to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that
faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. A better way? I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that
works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.

Ken
I used to use tri-flow, switched a year or two ago to Prolink Gold
chain lubeand haven't looked back; a better product for lubricating
chains as it seems to stay on longer and actually accumulate less
grime. I use straight Simple Green on a rag to clean the chain - spin
a few times - and hand clean the chain rings and then extra grime
on the derailleur jockey wheels. I use one of those blue Park brushes
made for the purpose for the cogs. Its quicker to do it than write
about it.

The Prolink is nearly as light as tri-flow; I put a rag on the floor, bike
on a work stand and drip on the inside until it all looks wet. Try to
leave over night and spin backwards a few times with a rag in hand
and good to go.

There will be dozens of emails on this subject with dozens of different
solutions. Regardless of the product, I think it best to go with one of
the lighter lubes similar but not exactly tri-flow although the stuff
works fine.

On Tuesday, September 4, 2012 11:30:58 AM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
OccasionalFlyer wrote:



yeah that's good if somewhat compulsive but if the practice yields results....satisfaction.

idea all chain lube more or less reduces the approach right off tho..

theresnot an envelop of acceptable results here...only seams so.

if you try different lubes in the same category eg Epic and Valvo, closing the envelops boundries for a tighter comparison....and compare in a stable environment

such as Florida heat flatness clean smooth roadsurfaces...significant performance qualities emerge after 10+ runs.

and off course nthis is what the ad flacks write abt LUBE X that after years (1) their Lube is superior....for their naborhood, unforetuneately.

I did try Tri Flow. TF lost acceptable lube qualities in short mileages yet lubed well at the start.

a squirt of TF on a chain already lubed with eg Pedro's IW2 could be a positive.

TRY a double boiler pan setup with hotplate. Using hot lube and hot clean chain is in the EPO/pro mechanic category esp in ncold weather.

Outside, ventilated area, poss using a fan for blowing evaped gases off tho I haven't had a problem with that using a woodstove top maybe the gas followed heat out flue area.

as Frank mentioned a heavier lube is placed in side plates to stay there longer with expansion and low viscosity.

On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 20:10:27 -0700 (PDT), datakoll
wrote:

TRY a double boiler pan setup with hotplate. Using hot lube and hot clean chain is in the EPO/pro mechanic category esp in ncold weather.

Outside, ventilated area, poss using a fan for blowing evaped gases off tho I haven't had a problem with that using a woodstove top maybe the gas followed heat out flue area.

as Frank mentioned a heavier lube is placed in side plates to stay there longer with expansion and low viscosity.

I've got a can of stuff called CRC Soft Seal, made in Australia I
believe, that seems similar to "Frame Saver" if anyone knows what that
is. It is a spray can that sprays out what appears to be a very light,
almost water like, oil; when then thickens rapidly into a very thick,
sticky. tenacious, coating.

It seems as though this might be just the stuff for chains - a very
light, thin, oil to penetrate the chain inter-spaces which then turns
to a heavy, sticky substance to resist wear once it is in the chain.

I've got a can of stuff called CRC Soft Seal, made in Australia


SITUATION SIMILAR TO Valvoline with a pro petro lab, global testing procedures, vs Chain L. If CRC had a coating product useable as a chain oil, CRC would sell it as that. They do not so prob itsnot. What's it cost ? another label ?Or maybe one use is toxic or ? for the second use. Painters....

temp metal coatings maybe contain linseed oil hardening into a plastic like generally water resistant coating perfect for humidity, salt air if surfaces are dry and hot when apllied.

If you use my chain routine suggestion herein with re use able paint thinner container, liquid will give off a linseed odor after 2-3 washings/savings and saved liquid settlement. Odor from Epic and Valvo Synth...sugesting Valvo Synth isnot all synth polymer but contains newts eyes and frogs toes too.

We read use ATF and brake fluid (yech) et al not designed for chains. ? better than chain oil ? could be but for everyone in all conditions prob not.

On 06/09/12 22:53, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 20:10:27 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

TRY a double boiler pan setup with hotplate. Using hot lube and hot clean chain is in the EPO/pro mechanic category esp in ncold weather.

Outside, ventilated area, poss using a fan for blowing evaped gases off tho I haven't had a problem with that using a woodstove top maybe the gas followed heat out flue area.

as Frank mentioned a heavier lube is placed in side plates to stay there longer with expansion and low viscosity.

I've got a can of stuff called CRC Soft Seal, made in Australia I
believe, that seems similar to "Frame Saver" if anyone knows what that
is. It is a spray can that sprays out what appears to be a very light,
almost water like, oil; when then thickens rapidly into a very thick,
sticky. tenacious, coating.

It seems as though this might be just the stuff for chains - a very
light, thin, oil to penetrate the chain inter-spaces which then turns
to a heavy, sticky substance to resist wear once it is in the chain.


I don't like sticky, and prefer slippery. I prefer an oil that I can
wipe off with a rag and that contains detergents to hold contaminants in
solution for as long as possible (until I clean the chain more thoroughly).

--
JS.

wrote:
I've been lubing my chain and cogs (more or less) for many years.
It's time to do this for the first time on my current road bike. I
usually use spray citrus degreaser and spray Tri-Flow. I want to
switch to a method that does not get any of the cleaning chemicals on
the wheel or the frame. I got cleaner for the Park tool that goes
around the chain (used that long ago but it seems awfully
inefficient). So the cleaning part I can do. It's the lubing part I
have a question about.
Context: I am pretty near-sighted, so when someone at the bike shop
points to some spot on the chain and says, "Lube these," it is not
extremely helpful. The same for pictures in the bike maintenance and
repair book I have (put together by Bicycling Magazine).
The pieces of the chain that the cog teeth actually touch does not, I
presume, need lubrication because it is not a moving part. It is the
connecters between each chain link that need to be lubricated. So,
without removing the chain from the bike, what approach can I use to
lube the parts of the chain that need it (which would most obviously
be both the side that faces away from the bike and the side that faces
the wheel) without getting lubricant on the bike or the wheel? I've
thought of trying to cut some sort of "shield" for the wheel and bike
out of cardboard or perhaps even a sheet of plastic but that sounds
rather cumbersome. A better way? I assume that it would not be a
spray but it still needs to get all the moving pieces of the chain.
With a squeeze bottle, I'm concerned about getting all the needed
spots (again partly a visual acuity issue). Thahks and sorry if this
seems too basic but I've never figured out a way to do this that works
well and is not such a hassle it's ridiculous.
Ken


I just use a 1" chip brush which I dip in a little bowl of motor oil.

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http://android.newsgroupstats.hk

On Thursday, September 6, 2012 5:45:25 PM UTC-4, James wrote:
On 06/09/12 22:53, John B. wrote:

On Wed, 5 Sep 2012 20:10:27 -0700 (PDT),

wrote:



TRY a double boiler pan setup with hotplate. Using hot lube and hot clean chain is in the EPO/pro mechanic category esp in ncold weather.



Outside, ventilated area, poss using a fan for blowing evaped gases off tho I haven't had a problem with that using a woodstove top maybe the gas followed heat out flue area.



as Frank mentioned a heavier lube is placed in side plates to stay there longer with expansion and low viscosity.



I've got a can of stuff called CRC Soft Seal, made in Australia I

believe, that seems similar to "Frame Saver" if anyone knows what that

is. It is a spray can that sprays out what appears to be a very light,

almost water like, oil; when then thickens rapidly into a very thick,

sticky. tenacious, coating.



It seems as though this might be just the stuff for chains - a very

light, thin, oil to penetrate the chain inter-spaces which then turns

to a heavy, sticky substance to resist wear once it is in the chain.





I don't like sticky, and prefer slippery. I prefer an oil that I can

wipe off with a rag and that contains detergents to hold contaminants in

solution for as long as possible (until I clean the chain more thoroughly).



--

JS.

ATF is ssssticky ! without cause relative to gear facing power only fluid drive lubing.

what's the soil type you're riding over, temps, degree of blowing dirt ?

these determine what chain lube you could use effectively.

detergents in ATF ? why not: suggested replacement interval is 50000 miles.

but ATF lives in a clean environment compared to gear oil surly ATF detergents are not equipped for road grime ?

riders evaluating chain lubes need ride a similar course for competing lubes, examine at 20 mile intervals, use in rain, use over dusty courses as secondary routes. THEN you can evaluate fairly...if not yawl guessing.