Recommendations

70m 5h3rm4n wrote:

Chalo Colina wrote:

Andy wrote:
[...]
Anyone tried using a short range cell phone jammer while riding?

Why wouldn't you want a long range cell phone jammer?

Power consumption and exposure to high levels of EMR.

Couldn't you put the emitter up on top of one of those silly 'bent
flagpole things?

"Andy" wrote in message
...
Looking for recommendations for these areas:

Lube for chain - been using synthetic grease

Bike shop put something on, but it "washed" off pronto.

Something for my shoe laces.

I try to keep them short or double tied.

Real scary feeling when they caught in your chain. :-0

Something for your pedal that's anti-slip.
Gotta be reasonable in price.

Manual with techniques to convince bike shop owner that Raleighs
aren't old school and that you need a new bike. :-)

Anyone tried using a short range cell phone jammer while riding?

Andy


I tried some of the expensive chain oils sold by my LBS and was
disappointed. I live in a humid area and I've got a collection of bikes
hanging in the garage and have had chains fuse with rust just hanging there.
(ProLink was a rip-off and completely failed to protect my chains). Motor
oil or chain saw oil does the job far better but it gathers dirt almost as
fast as Phil Wood tenacious oil. I like Remington gun oil and have used it
for several years. It is intended to protect and lubricate firearms without
attracting a lot of dirt. Dirt sticks to it but not as much as other stuff
I've tried and my chains never rust in the garage or while I ride. Wal-Mart
sells it cheap.

On Dec 1, 5:28*pm, James wrote:
On Dec 2, 10:16*am, SMS wrote:

On 12/1/2010 2:55 PM, Andy wrote:

You are the man.
Economical ideas and a good attitude too. :-)

And don't forget SAE30 bar and chain oil. It has additives to keep it
from flinging off the chain. The downside is that it's sticky.

I tried chainsaw chain and bar oil on my bicycle chain once. *It was
the worst thing for messing up the bike. *It kinda makes long strings
of oil, like thick cobwebs between the chain and chainrings as the two
separate, and flicks all over the place.

Never again.

I've used engine oil, gearbox oil, EP diff oil and ATF. *They all work
reasonably well provided they're allowed to penetrate sufficiently
(which takes a bit more effort with the heavier grades).

I like ATF for my regular riding. *It's light and penetrates well, and
is easy to wipe and clean off, but it's probably not going to hang
around in wet conditions. *I don't ride in the wet if at all possible.

JS.

It's might be safe if you use a Faraday cage.

Andy

On 12/3/2010 10:15 AM, Andy wrote:
On Dec 1, 5:28 pm, wrote:
On Dec 2, 10:16 am, wrote:

On 12/1/2010 2:55 PM, Andy wrote:

You are the man.
Economical ideas and a good attitude too. :-)

And don't forget SAE30 bar and chain oil. It has additives to keep it
from flinging off the chain. The downside is that it's sticky.

I tried chainsaw chain and bar oil on my bicycle chain once. It was
the worst thing for messing up the bike. It kinda makes long strings
of oil, like thick cobwebs between the chain and chainrings as the two
separate, and flicks all over the place.

Never again.

I've used engine oil, gearbox oil, EP diff oil and ATF. They all work
reasonably well provided they're allowed to penetrate sufficiently
(which takes a bit more effort with the heavier grades).

I like ATF for my regular riding. It's light and penetrates well, and
is easy to wipe and clean off, but it's probably not going to hang
around in wet conditions. I don't ride in the wet if at all possible.

JS.

It's might be safe if you use a Faraday cage.

Andy
I once built a Faraday cage at UBC