Bike chains

I have just put a new chain on my bike, the old one starting to get
a bit noisy (stretched). I once read here that chains stretch because
grit grinds away at the bearings, so I assumed that it didn't matter
much how much I pay for a chain. The bike shop tells me, however, that
there are various qualities of chain.

Does it pay to pay more for a chain, and if so, why?
--
Dieter Britz (oldnobatyahoo.dk)

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:04:47 +0100, Dieter Britz wrote:

I have just put a new chain on my bike, the old one starting to get
a bit noisy (stretched). I once read here that chains stretch because
grit grinds away at the bearings, so I assumed that it didn't matter
much how much I pay for a chain. The bike shop tells me, however, that
there are various qualities of chain.

Does it pay to pay more for a chain, and if so, why?

Up to a point, yes. As far as I can tell, that point is somewhere around the
cheapest SRAM, Shim, KMC chain that'll work for your gear set up. My favorite
bike shop seems to concur. Better materials, assembly and heat treat will mean
less wear. What I've seen is those things happen pretty low on the cost/benefit
curve.

YMMV and I'd love to hear of exceptions and things that are better.

Ron

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:04:47 +0100, Dieter Britz
wrote:

I have just put a new chain on my bike, the old one starting to get
a bit noisy (stretched). I once read here that chains stretch because
grit grinds away at the bearings, so I assumed that it didn't matter
much how much I pay for a chain. The bike shop tells me, however, that
there are various qualities of chain.

Does it pay to pay more for a chain, and if so, why?

$20-30 Sram 9sp, KMC 10sp

You don't mention what width/speed chain you need. All the chains are
about the same. Differences in quality are often differences in
finish of the steel. I recall that 105 chain is nickel plated,
ultegra nickel/chrome and DA chrome. I look for a chain with a
removable link. In 10sp the KMC DX10 or Shimano 105 are my favorites.
For 9sp the Sram or Shimano work for me. I usually choose the chain
with removable links.

When I was a waxer, the Connex link was best because it came
disassembled easiest. I reuse that link for several chains. I've
become a Prolink person and taking the chain off is not so important
anymore.

Paul Kopit wrote:
When I was a waxer, the Connex link was best because it came
disassembled easiest. I reuse that link for several chains. I've
become a Prolink person and taking the chain off is not so important
anymore.

Serendipitous posting. I am currently refurbing my tandem and I have
to link two chains together for the length between the captain and
stoker cranks. I bought two SRAM chains which come with two removable
lengths. I suppose I should just shorten the second chain to length and
use both removable links or would pressing them together do the trick?

On Mar 26, 10:11*am, JCrowe wrote:
I suppose I should just shorten the second chain to
length and use both removable links or would pressing
them together do the trick?

Pressing together, as in joining the two chains with a chain tool?
That's officially a no-no with modern multi-speed chains (the pins are
peened, so they flare at the ends, so when you drive them through with
the chain tool, they enlarge the holes in the side plates, and then
those side plates won't fit tightly on reassembly).

My understanding is that modern track/BMX chain, being intended for
single-cog use, uses straight pins to allow for length tuning.

I vote for removing links from one or both chains and, yeah, using
both the snap-links to join them.

On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:04:47 +0100, Dieter Britz wrote:

I have just put a new chain on my bike, the old one starting to get a bit
noisy (stretched). I once read here that chains stretch because grit
grinds away at the bearings, so I assumed that it didn't matter much how
much I pay for a chain. The bike shop tells me, however, that there are
various qualities of chain.

Does it pay to pay more for a chain, and if so, why?

In my experience, the expensive ones don't last any longer than the cheap
ones.

I used to wear out chains in 2-3 months of mountain biking. Always
looking for more chain life per dollar I tried all levels of quality,
and found there's no difference. A decade of this is a pretty good sample.

Look for the cheapest chain that fits your drivetrain. Currently I'm
using 8 and 9 speed Nashbar chains by KMC that cost $10-15 each on
sale.

Matt O.

JCrowe wrote:
I suppose I should just shorten the second chain to
length and use both removable links or would pressing
them together do the trick?

wrote:
Pressing together, as in joining the two chains with a chain tool?
That's officially a no-no with modern multi-speed chains (the pins are
peened, so they flare at the ends, so when you drive them through with
the chain tool, they enlarge the holes in the side plates, and then
those side plates won't fit tightly on reassembly).

Mike Elliott wrote:
Wait -- modern chains should not be taken apart with a chain tool? I did
not know that! That's how I remove mine to clean. So . . . what's the
more correct procedure?

Sevens go both ways but 8-9-10 chain have thinner links with tighter
rivets and they set flush. Quite difficult to do well when it is
possible at all. The downside risk is a rider injury. Use a snap link!
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Mar 26, 11:20*am, Mike Elliott wrote:
On 3/26/2008 10:41 AM wrote:

On Mar 26, 10:11 am, JCrowe wrote:
I suppose I should just shorten the second chain to
length and use both removable links or would pressing
them together do the trick?

Pressing together, as in joining the two chains with a chain tool?
That's officially a no-no with modern multi-speed chains (the pins are
peened, so they flare at the ends, so when you drive them through with
the chain tool, they enlarge the holes in the side plates, and then
those side plates won't fit tightly on reassembly).

Wait -- modern chains should not be taken apart with a chain tool? I did
not know that! That's how I remove mine to clean. So . . . what's the
more correct procedure?


You can take them apart with a chain tool, just don't put them back
together the old way. Both Shimano & Campy pins should be pushed out
all the way, and have special rejoining pins to replace the old ones
(Shimano pins are cheap, Campys are half the price of a new chain).
That special pin should not be pushed out again later, Other brands
include snaplinks to rejoin. As long as the width is the same, SRAM,
Wipperman and KMC snaplinks can be used with Shimano and Campy chains.

On Mar 26, 11:19*am, Matt O'Toole wrote:
On Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:04:47 +0100, Dieter Britz wrote:
I have just put a new chain on my bike, the old one starting to get a bit
noisy (stretched). I once read here that chains stretch because grit
grinds away at the bearings, so I assumed that it didn't matter much how
much I pay for a chain. The bike shop tells me, however, that there are
various qualities of chain.

Does it pay to pay more for a chain, and if so, why?

In my experience, the expensive ones don't last any longer than the cheap
ones.

I used to wear out chains in 2-3 months of mountain biking. *Always
looking for more chain life per dollar I tried all levels of quality,
and found there's no difference. *A decade of this is a pretty good sample.

Look for the cheapest chain that fits your drivetrain. *Currently I'm
using 8 and 9 speed Nashbar chains by KMC that cost $10-15 each on
sale.

Matt O.

On the 10-speed front, I really like the "Forte' by KMC" chains that
Performance frequently has on sale between $20 and $25.

"Dieter Britz" wrote in message
...
I have just put a new chain on my bike, the old one starting to get
a bit noisy (stretched). I once read here that chains stretch because
grit grinds away at the bearings, so I assumed that it didn't matter
much how much I pay for a chain. The bike shop tells me, however, that
there are various qualities of chain.

Does it pay to pay more for a chain, and if so, why?
--
Dieter Britz (oldnobatyahoo.dk)

The best ways to make a chain last longer are-

#1: Become a lightweight. Somebody 180lbs wears out chains much faster than
someone 120lbs. Dramatic difference.

#2: Become a clean freak. A spotless chain lasts much longer than one that's
dirty. Unfortunately, this often means spending as much time cleaning your
bike as riding it.

#3: Avoid hills.

#4: Don't buy the cheapest chain available. Usually the chain one-up from
the bottom works almost as well as the most-expensive chains. But the very
cheapest tend to be pretty bad.

If you've got a 10-speed drivetrain, the KMC & Shimano chains work very
nicely. I'm not a fan of the SRAM. Noisy, seems to wear more quickly, and
break more often than I'd like. For 9-speeds, same thing, except that
there's no wear or failure issue with the SRAM chains (although I don't find
they shift as well up front as the other chains).

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA