Article: BASIC INFO. ABOUT TUBE PATCHING

http://www.alltiresupply.com/tutoria...-patching.html

Tube-patching basics: patch tubes like a pro with these 10 steps
Dave Mowitz

No more than one hour after repairing its tube did the tire flat. on
the sprayer I was using go The victim of a poor patch job.

Maybe it was because I used sandpaper instead of a buffer to prepare
the patch sight. Or I might have slathered on too much vulcanizing
fluid. Whatever the reason, the end result was that there I sat in the
field with a flat tire.

Don Kubly assures me such mistakes aren't unusual. He should know,
with his 23 years of farm tire repair experience, including nine
advising people on the topic of tire repair for Gempler's
(www.gemplers.com). Such mistakes may be common, but they are
avoidable if you know the basics of patching tubes and stick to those
basics religiously.

Kubly offers these dos and don'ts for patching tubes:

* Do use repair products and instructions from the same
manufacturer. "Don't use Rema patches with Camel vulcanizing fluid,"
Kubly advises.

* Do repair tubes in a clean, dry area.

* Don't use a cloth or paper towel to clean tubes before a patch.

* Don't use air from a compressor to blow dust from the tube as it
can contain moisture and oils, and cause a poor bond between the patch
and cold vulcanizing fluids (a form of tire cement)," Kubly says.

With those warnings in mind, follow these step-by-step instructions
from Kubly to tackle a patching job.

1. Inspect the tube for injury. This method of tube repair uses the
Rema Tube Repair Kit.

2. Round out or buttonhole the ends of the hole using a paper hole
punch or scissors to prevent future tearing as well as other rubbing
damage to the tube.

3. Clean the area using a prebuff cleaner, allowing the spray to
set for 10 to 15 seconds. Then drag a tire scraper over the entire
surface to remove contaminants repeating if needed.

4. Choose a patch that extends beyond the injury by at least 1/2
inch.

5. Buff the repair area slightly larger than the patch size and to
a smooth velvety surface. Avoid using a buffer that exceeds 5,000
rpm's, Kubly warns, since this scorches the rubber surface and
prevents the best bond.

6. Use a brass-bristled brush to remove buffing dust from the tube.

7. Apply a thin coat of vulcanizing fluid to the entire buffed
area, making sure not to overapply the cement. Allow the application
to dry, then test an area outside of the patch zone. When the cement
is tacky (doesn't stick to your finger) you can apply the patch.

8. Peel foil backing from the patch and center it over the hole
being careful not to touch the bonding surface. Press the patch down
on the tube, starting in the center and working out to the edges.

9. Using a tire tool called a stitcher, press down firmly on the
patch, once again starting in the center and working to the outer
edges. This effort will remove any air that may be trapped under the
patch.

10. Peel the plastic covering off the to o the patch once again
starting in the center and working to the outer edges. Then cover the
entire buffed and cemented area with tire talc to prevent damage to
the tube. Now you're ready to put a small amount of air in the tube to
check the repair before installing it back in the tire.

The Tire Doctor is in

Consult with Don Kubly on tire repair topics or take a patching
class at our Internet Machine Shop located at www.agriculture.com/insider.

Ablang wrote:
http://www.alltiresupply.com/tutoria...-patching.html

Tube-patching basics: patch tubes like a pro with these 10 steps
Dave Mowitz

No more than one hour after repairing its tube did the tire flat. on
the sprayer I was using go The victim of a poor patch job.

Maybe it was because I used sandpaper instead of a buffer to prepare
the patch sight. Or I might have slathered on too much vulcanizing
fluid. Whatever the reason, the end result was that there I sat in the
field with a flat tire.

Don Kubly assures me such mistakes aren't unusual. He should know,
with his 23 years of farm tire repair experience, including nine
advising people on the topic of tire repair for Gempler's
(www.gemplers.com). Such mistakes may be common, but they are
avoidable if you know the basics of patching tubes and stick to those
basics religiously.

Kubly offers these dos and don'ts for patching tubes:

* Do use repair products and instructions from the same
manufacturer. "Don't use Rema patches with Camel vulcanizing fluid,"
Kubly advises.

* Do repair tubes in a clean, dry area.

* Don't use a cloth or paper towel to clean tubes before a patch.

* Don't use air from a compressor to blow dust from the tube as it
can contain moisture and oils, and cause a poor bond between the patch
and cold vulcanizing fluids (a form of tire cement)," Kubly says.

With those warnings in mind, follow these step-by-step instructions
from Kubly to tackle a patching job.

1. Inspect the tube for injury. This method of tube repair uses the
Rema Tube Repair Kit.

2. Round out or buttonhole the ends of the hole using a paper hole
punch or scissors to prevent future tearing as well as other rubbing
damage to the tube.

3. Clean the area using a prebuff cleaner, allowing the spray to
set for 10 to 15 seconds. Then drag a tire scraper over the entire
surface to remove contaminants repeating if needed.

4. Choose a patch that extends beyond the injury by at least 1/2
inch.

5. Buff the repair area slightly larger than the patch size and to
a smooth velvety surface. Avoid using a buffer that exceeds 5,000
rpm's, Kubly warns, since this scorches the rubber surface and
prevents the best bond.

6. Use a brass-bristled brush to remove buffing dust from the tube.

7. Apply a thin coat of vulcanizing fluid to the entire buffed
area, making sure not to overapply the cement. Allow the application
to dry, then test an area outside of the patch zone. When the cement
is tacky (doesn't stick to your finger) you can apply the patch.

8. Peel foil backing from the patch and center it over the hole
being careful not to touch the bonding surface. Press the patch down
on the tube, starting in the center and working out to the edges.

9. Using a tire tool called a stitcher, press down firmly on the
patch, once again starting in the center and working to the outer
edges. This effort will remove any air that may be trapped under the
patch.

10. Peel the plastic covering off the to o the patch once again
starting in the center and working to the outer edges. Then cover the
entire buffed and cemented area with tire talc to prevent damage to
the tube. Now you're ready to put a small amount of air in the tube to
check the repair before installing it back in the tire.

The Tire Doctor is in

Consult with Don Kubly on tire repair topics or take a patching
class at our Internet Machine Shop located at www.agriculture.com/insider.



I've patched hundreds of flats, never had (to my recall) one leak. I've
patched in the dark, rain, cold, mud and snow.

Sand the area with the little scrap of sandpaper.
Buff the area on your shorts.
Put a drop of glue on the hole.
Smear the drop to an area larger than the path with your finger.
Wait till glue's not tacky, test with back of fingernail.
Press on patch, firmly with thumbs.
Leave the cellophane on, it won't hurt anything.

In article ,
Peter Cole writes:
Ablang wrote:
http://www.alltiresupply.com/tutoria...-patching.html

Tube-patching basics: patch tubes like a pro with these 10 steps
Dave Mowitz

No more than one hour after repairing its tube did the tire flat. on
the sprayer I was using go The victim of a poor patch job.

Maybe it was because I used sandpaper instead of a buffer to prepare
the patch sight. Or I might have slathered on too much vulcanizing
fluid. Whatever the reason, the end result was that there I sat in the
field with a flat tire.

Don Kubly assures me such mistakes aren't unusual. He should know,
with his 23 years of farm tire repair experience, including nine
advising people on the topic of tire repair for Gempler's
(www.gemplers.com). Such mistakes may be common, but they are
avoidable if you know the basics of patching tubes and stick to those
basics religiously.

Kubly offers these dos and don'ts for patching tubes:

* Do use repair products and instructions from the same
manufacturer. "Don't use Rema patches with Camel vulcanizing fluid,"
Kubly advises.

* Do repair tubes in a clean, dry area.

* Don't use a cloth or paper towel to clean tubes before a patch.

* Don't use air from a compressor to blow dust from the tube as it
can contain moisture and oils, and cause a poor bond between the patch
and cold vulcanizing fluids (a form of tire cement)," Kubly says.

With those warnings in mind, follow these step-by-step instructions
from Kubly to tackle a patching job.

1. Inspect the tube for injury. This method of tube repair uses the
Rema Tube Repair Kit.

2. Round out or buttonhole the ends of the hole using a paper hole
punch or scissors to prevent future tearing as well as other rubbing
damage to the tube.

3. Clean the area using a prebuff cleaner, allowing the spray to
set for 10 to 15 seconds. Then drag a tire scraper over the entire
surface to remove contaminants repeating if needed.

4. Choose a patch that extends beyond the injury by at least 1/2
inch.

5. Buff the repair area slightly larger than the patch size and to
a smooth velvety surface. Avoid using a buffer that exceeds 5,000
rpm's, Kubly warns, since this scorches the rubber surface and
prevents the best bond.

6. Use a brass-bristled brush to remove buffing dust from the tube.

7. Apply a thin coat of vulcanizing fluid to the entire buffed
area, making sure not to overapply the cement. Allow the application
to dry, then test an area outside of the patch zone. When the cement
is tacky (doesn't stick to your finger) you can apply the patch.

8. Peel foil backing from the patch and center it over the hole
being careful not to touch the bonding surface. Press the patch down
on the tube, starting in the center and working out to the edges.

9. Using a tire tool called a stitcher, press down firmly on the
patch, once again starting in the center and working to the outer
edges. This effort will remove any air that may be trapped under the
patch.

10. Peel the plastic covering off the to o the patch once again
starting in the center and working to the outer edges. Then cover the
entire buffed and cemented area with tire talc to prevent damage to
the tube. Now you're ready to put a small amount of air in the tube to
check the repair before installing it back in the tire.

The Tire Doctor is in

Consult with Don Kubly on tire repair topics or take a patching
class at our Internet Machine Shop located at www.agriculture.com/insider.



I've patched hundreds of flats, never had (to my recall) one leak. I've
patched in the dark, rain, cold, mud and snow.

Sand the area with the little scrap of sandpaper.
Buff the area on your shorts.
Put a drop of glue on the hole.
Smear the drop to an area larger than the path with your finger.
Wait till glue's not tacky, test with back of fingernail.
Press on patch, firmly with thumbs.
Leave the cellophane on, it won't hurt anything.

Yeah, patching tubes is not rocket surgery.

Understanding how the cement works is chemistry, but
we don't need to be Linus Pauling to effectively
patch a tube. We just need to be able to read and
follow the tiny typesized instructions that come with
every patch kit. A little patience doesn't hurt.
After the age of 40, neither do reading glasses.


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca

Wait, are we talking about tractor tires or bicycles? A hole punch to
limit the tube rupture? A patch 1/2" wider (on all sides?) than the
hole? A 5000 rpm buffer?

On Apr 25, 7:03*pm, Peter Cole wrote:

I've patched hundreds of flats, never had (to my recall) one leak. I've
patched in the dark, rain, cold, mud and snow.

Well, on my first ever bike tour back in the 1970s, I had one leak.
Worse, the patch stuck well enough I couldn't get it off, but I
couldn't get it to stick well enough to seal in the air. And that was
before I knew to carry an extra tube. For about 50 miles, it was
pedal five miles, pump the tire, repeat.

It taught me to be careful about patching.

Sand the area with the little scrap of sandpaper.
Buff the area on your shorts.
Put a drop of glue on the hole.
Smear the drop to an area larger than the path with your finger.
Wait till glue's not tacky, test with back of fingernail.
Press on patch, firmly with thumbs.
Leave the cellophane on, it won't hurt anything.

And yes, that's what I do. But carefully!

- Frank Krygowski

On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 15:24:12 -0700 (PDT), Brian Huntley
wrote:


Wait, are we talking about tractor tires or bicycles? A hole punch to
limit the tube rupture? A patch 1/2" wider (on all sides?) than the
hole? A 5000 rpm buffer?

No one would call me a weight weenie, but I very rarely carry my 5000
rpm buffer. It's mostly the lack of an outlet when I need it most.

I find that if I don't put a hole in the tube when removing it from
the wheel, or putting it back on, then whatever I stick on the hole
works fine. I even have some patches that don't use any cement. I sort
of don't trust those, but I used one once and it seems to work.

I do find they work best if patched out of the rain.

On Apr 27, 9:03*am, dgk wrote:


No one would call me a weight weenie, but I very rarely carry my 5000
rpm buffer. It's mostly the lack of an outlet when I need it most.

Yet another reason to use a bike generator! ;-)

- Frank Krygowski

On Apr 27, 11:46*am, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Apr 27, 9:03*am, dgk wrote:



No one would call me a weight weenie, but I very rarely carry my 5000
rpm buffer. It's mostly the lack of an outlet when I need it most.

Yet another reason to use a bike generator! *;-)


And a kickstand, so as to allow pedaling with one tire removed.

dgk wrote:
On Sun, 26 Apr 2009 15:24:12 -0700 (PDT), Brian Huntley
wrote:

Wait, are we talking about tractor tires or bicycles? A hole punch to
limit the tube rupture? A patch 1/2" wider (on all sides?) than the
hole? A 5000 rpm buffer?

No one would call me a weight weenie, but I very rarely carry my 5000
rpm buffer. It's mostly the lack of an outlet when I need it most.[...]

If you do not carry a generator, you are a weight weenie!

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
LOCAL CACTUS EATS CYCLIST - datakoll

In article ,
Brian Huntley writes:
On Apr 27, 11:46*am, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Apr 27, 9:03*am, dgk wrote:



No one would call me a weight weenie, but I very rarely carry my 5000
rpm buffer. It's mostly the lack of an outlet when I need it most.

Yet another reason to use a bike generator! *;-)
And a kickstand, so as to allow pedaling with one tire removed.

I guess that's what one would have to do, to use the buffer.

With a flexible shaft & power take-off on the rear hub,
might not even need an /electric/ buffer.
5000 rpm, eh? Might have to use the big chainring.

That's really not such a far-fetched idea. There indeed
are such things as pedal-powered sound systems, blenders/
osterizers for making smoothies, washing machines, &c.
Here are some examples:
http://www.mayapedal.org/bicimaquinas_in.html

Just between you, me and our handlebars, I think the
pedal-powered blenders would be better applied to
making margueritas, or at least good ol' milk shakes.
I rather regard smoothies with a certain contempt.
Even though I have to reluctantly admit they do taste good.


cheers,
Tom

--
Nothing is safe from me.
I'm really at:
tkeats curlicue vcn dot bc dot ca