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#1
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commuter build questions
I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat
stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. thanks, dan. |
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#2
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commuter build questions
On Oct 3, 5:17 am, futrino wrote:
I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. " I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely." $60 gets you a Kona P2 that will look and work just fine with that frame. You'll never have to worry about it. $10 more gets you a crowned Surly. |
#3
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commuter build questions
On Oct 2, 6:04*pm, landotter wrote:
On Oct 3, 5:17 am, futrino wrote: I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. *So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. * I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? *I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any * reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. " I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely." $60 gets you a Kona P2 that will look and work just fine with that frame. You'll never have to worry about it. $10 more gets you a crowned Surly. Personally, I'd go this route as well. Alternatively, you may consider a carbon cross fork, if you're set on carbon. I'd be wary of off-road bashing with a carbon road fork. Landotter - it's too early, I was thinking your $60 & $70 were frame prices. In the time it took me to type "Kona P2" into the google search box, I was already doing a mental inventory of parts I have vs. whta I'd have to buy to build another bike. I've been itching for another lately for some reason - something fast enough on-road but strong enough off-road. Converting my old Rudge may be my best option, considering the minimal budget. I don't think it's up to the abuse I have in mind though. The SWOBO Folsom got me started on this whole thing, followed by the Redline Monocog 29er, and then come other built-up projects such as the "Monster Cross" fatcyclist recently wrote about. You know, because the 5 bikes I currently ride isn't enough. Therapy may be cheaper... at least insurance covers that. |
#4
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commuter build questions
On Oct 3, 8:21 pm, " wrote:
On Oct 2, 6:04 pm, landotter wrote: On Oct 3, 5:17 am, futrino wrote: I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. " I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely." $60 gets you a Kona P2 that will look and work just fine with that frame. You'll never have to worry about it. $10 more gets you a crowned Surly. Personally, I'd go this route as well. Alternatively, you may consider a carbon cross fork, if you're set on carbon. I'd be wary of off-road bashing with a carbon road fork. Landotter - it's too early, I was thinking your $60 & $70 were frame prices. In the time it took me to type "Kona P2" into the google search box, I was already doing a mental inventory of parts I have vs. whta I'd have to buy to build another bike. I've been itching for another lately for some reason - something fast enough on-road but strong enough off-road. Heh. Their new Honky Tonky utility road bike will take a 32mm tire easily if ya want a bike that you can take fire roading. Caliper brakes, so not good in the mud though. Nice spec for around $900: http://www.konaworld.com/09_honkytonk_en.cfm I take my fixed gear with similar clearances on the access roads in the local wetlands with some Panaracers mounted up. F-U-N! They got one at the LBS--it's seriously a handsome bike. Frame and fork are $350ish. Very nicely done rear dops. |
#5
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commuter build questions
On Oct 2, 3:04*pm, landotter wrote:
On Oct 3, 5:17 am, futrino wrote: I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. *So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. * I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? *I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any * reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. " I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely." $60 gets you a Kona P2 that will look and work just fine with that frame. You'll never have to worry about it. $10 more gets you a crowned Surly. I have a P2 that bent backward at the cantilever bosses (no, really.) Also the steer tube is too flexy which leads to shudder if you have center-pull cantilevers and a longish head tube. The Surly LHT fork I replaced it with is a real boat anchor, but a solid one. -pm |
#6
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commuter build questions
On Oct 3, 2:41*pm, landotter wrote:
On Oct 3, 8:21 pm, " wrote: On Oct 2, 6:04 pm, landotter wrote: On Oct 3, 5:17 am, futrino wrote: I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. *So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. * I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? *I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any * reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. " I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely." $60 gets you a Kona P2 that will look and work just fine with that frame. You'll never have to worry about it. $10 more gets you a crowned Surly. Personally, I'd go this route as well. *Alternatively, you may consider a carbon cross fork, if you're set on carbon. *I'd be wary of off-road bashing with a carbon road fork. Landotter - it's too early, I was thinking your $60 & $70 were frame prices. *In the time it took me to type "Kona P2" into the google search box, I was already doing a mental inventory of parts I have vs. whta I'd have to buy to build another bike. *I've been itching for another lately for some reason - something fast enough on-road but strong enough off-road. Heh. Their new Honky Tonky utility road bike will take a 32mm tire easily if ya want a bike that you can take fire roading. Caliper brakes, so not good in the mud though. Nice spec for around $900: http://www.konaworld.com/09_honkytonk_en.cfm I take my fixed gear with similar clearances on the access roads in the local wetlands with some Panaracers mounted up. F-U-N! They got one at the LBS--it's seriously a handsome bike. Frame and fork are $350ish. Very nicely done rear dops.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I just bought a slightly used motobecane outcast 29er for very short $. I've got some 700c wheels & tires lying around, so I can have a road set & a mtn set. I've also got a very nice flip-flop hub that I can't recall the width on lying around, which I'll build a new rugged rear wheel on if it's wide enough. Previous owner already upgraded the headset, and I've got a couple stems lying around. Should be just a set of bars away from a passable ride, from all the reviews I've read. Should be an interesting experience. |
#7
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commuter build questions
On Oct 3, 2:53*pm, " wrote:
On Oct 3, 2:41*pm, landotter wrote: On Oct 3, 8:21 pm, " wrote: On Oct 2, 6:04 pm, landotter wrote: On Oct 3, 5:17 am, futrino wrote: I have a early 1990's trek hybrid frame that broke last year at the seat stays behind the bottom bracket. I had it welded and now it is cracking again. *So I want to get something newer and hopefully lighter too. * I liked the trek because the bottom bracket is really high and I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely. I want to reuse as many parts as I can, I know I will have to probably go to a 1 1/8 fork, headset etc. Any reasons not to use a 29er frame? *I have 700c wheels I might get the nashbar X frame. I want to stay with V brakes. Also any * reasons not to spend the extra $85 to get a carbon fork instead of steel. I do abuse the bike, bar, work off road curbs etc. " I ride this bike everywhere with a 53 big ring, and it went over logs and such nicely." $60 gets you a Kona P2 that will look and work just fine with that frame. You'll never have to worry about it. $10 more gets you a crowned Surly. Personally, I'd go this route as well. *Alternatively, you may consider a carbon cross fork, if you're set on carbon. *I'd be wary of off-road bashing with a carbon road fork. Landotter - it's too early, I was thinking your $60 & $70 were frame prices. *In the time it took me to type "Kona P2" into the google search box, I was already doing a mental inventory of parts I have vs.. whta I'd have to buy to build another bike. *I've been itching for another lately for some reason - something fast enough on-road but strong enough off-road. Heh. Their new Honky Tonky utility road bike will take a 32mm tire easily if ya want a bike that you can take fire roading. Caliper brakes, so not good in the mud though. Nice spec for around $900: http://www.konaworld.com/09_honkytonk_en.cfm I take my fixed gear with similar clearances on the access roads in the local wetlands with some Panaracers mounted up. F-U-N! They got one at the LBS--it's seriously a handsome bike. Frame and fork are $350ish. Very nicely done rear dops.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - I just bought a slightly used motobecane outcast 29er for very short $. *I've got some 700c wheels & tires lying around, so I can have a road set & a mtn set. *I've also got a very nice flip-flop hub that I can't recall the width on lying around, which I'll build a new rugged rear wheel on if it's wide enough. *Previous owner already upgraded the headset, and I've got a couple stems lying around. *Should be just a set of bars away from a passable ride, from all the reviews I've read. *Should be an interesting experience.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Oh, and tires. Lots of people with this bike don't like the tires, which weight 2lbs each. I suppose those might get changed out as well. |
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