Digital SLR Camera discussion thread

semach.the.monkey wrote:
but what settings do you suggest for one of those ‘pan with the
rider’ type shots to capture them nice and clear but with a
whoosh of blurred trees behind?STM


remember to move the camera with the part you want clear (for example
the head)- if you're close enough only the head will be clear, the rest
blurred: further away the rider & uni are more likely to be clear.


Best thing is practice practice practice and experiment: focus points,
focus types, exposures, speed, ISO, timing, shooting point... and be
prepared for a LOT of rubbish shots. Best is an event where you've got
lots riding past, or rider(s) repeating the same stretch.

Following the 'rules' of composition help, but when you don't you can
come up with some excellent shots, like Tom Holub's here.

Of course with a better camera, you can crop wider shots without much
loss of resolution, but the idea usually is to keep Photoshop time down
- you want to be outside not in front of a computer!


--
mikepenton

Uni - The Unicycle Magazine
'www.unicyclemagazine.com' (http://www.unicyclemagazine.com)
------------------------------------------------------------------------
mikepenton's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7090
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72609


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

mikepenton wrote:
remember to move the camera with the part you want clear (for example
the head)- if you're close enough only the head will be clear, the rest
blurred: further away the rider & uni are more likely to be clear.


Best thing is practice practice practice and experiment: focus points,
focus types, exposures, speed, ISO, timing, shooting point... and be
prepared for a LOT of rubbish shots. Best is an event where you've got
lots riding past, or rider(s) repeating the same stretch.

Following the 'rules' of composition help, but when you don't you can
come up with some excellent shots, like Tom Holub's here.

Of course with a better camera, you can crop wider shots without much
loss of resolution, but the idea usually is to keep Photoshop time down
- you want to be outside not in front of a computer!


STM: In essence.. slower shutter speed, higher f-stop (depending on
lighting conditions), "pan" (rotate, twist, move) with your subject at
the same smooth, relative speed. I strongly suggest setting your camera
in a manual focus mode and "pre-focus" in the general area you intend to
snap the pic in.


--
rem48
------------------------------------------------------------------------
rem48's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/15538
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72609


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Pentax K100D Digital SLR Camera

hows this camera




http://tinyurl.com/5thzsm


--
knighty
------------------------------------------------------------------------
knighty's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/18391
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72609


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

get the K110D like Isaac did... slap a DA 50-200mm lense on there,
Kaboom!


--
UniKid2

_*Approximate*_
'Countdown To OUI' 09' (http://tinyurl.com/6axmep)

*Vive le Québec Libre!*

unipsyco:i have tried my friend's kh and it's really killing my
knees..
sp4rky-m4rky:i swear you must be doing something wrong.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
UniKid2's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/15862
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72609


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

UniKid2;1145774 wrote:
get the K110D like Isaac did... slap a DA 50-200mm lense on there,
Kaboom!



Get a Canon XT or XTI.

After shooting last month with friends Nikons, I'm a Canon lover. The
menu is much easier to work and quickly. Also most lesnses, at least
here, are a bit cheaper. The Nikon have some cool features, but I would
only buy a D80 or a better one.

I have two EOS film cameras and I'll probably change both plus my XT on
a better camera.

About Canon lenses: I'm acctualy using a Ultrasonic Tele (100-300mm)
for Film cameras on my DSLR. It works PERFECT! I didn't had problems and
got some nice pics.

Now I'm planning to get a Fisheye! But fisheye's are around 400 US
dollars and I will only use it in some special shots! So I'm thinking in
a converter like this: '0.22x Fisheye' (http://tinyurl.com/573mvj). For
65 buck it look like a great deal.

There are some cheaper but I don't know if with a 0.42x I will get a
cool effect.

This lenses you attach to the front thread (in Canons 58mm). Anyone
have experience with this kind of lenses? A 0.42x would give me a cool
fisheye effect?

Might I will get a Cheap Chinese Battery Grip before Wuko... It costs
about 30 bucks... Way cheaper than the original!

If anyone have this kind of lenses please write a review!


--
pedrotejada

'*Kris Holm Unicycles*' (http://www.krisholm.com)

*Brazilian Unicycling Team*
------------------------------------------------------------------------
pedrotejada's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14471
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/72609


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com