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#21
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 19:07:07 GMT, maxo wrote:
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 13:57:05 -0500, Badger wrote: If, by that, you mean get a real road bike, I'd say, yep, that's a great idea. or check out the seasonal sales at the online shops and get a really sturdy set of 36 spoke wheels for a hundred bucks or so and mount some cyclocross tires on em and throw some really fast rubber on your stock light wheels. Two bikes in one. Actually I'd like to put the hybrid on a trainer, and have an indoor ride when things get icy, and ride the road bike outside. I'm just a little worried about fit problems and switching back and forth; is that a concern for most? There's a couple big -ifs- to consider...would I actually ride a bike on a trainer? (I did ride my sta. cycle, regularly last winter) The other thing is it's hard to think about spending 200 bucks on a trainer and not just spending an extra 200 on the road bike. Still the '04 discount is -about- 200 bucks. (how to convince the wife...decision, decisions). ;-) What would be the advantage of the cyclocross tires? I don't really ride any off road - they paved the off-road section I used to ride. Are we talking lots of tread? Guess I'll do a little research on just what cyclocross tires do. Any recommends as to online shops (US) Performance, nashbar would be my picks. I'll have to goofle for experiences buying from them... -B thx! |
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#22
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maxo wrote:
On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 13:57:05 -0500, Badger wrote: If, by that, you mean get a real road bike, I'd say, yep, that's a great idea. or check out the seasonal sales at the online shops and get a really sturdy set of 36 spoke wheels for a hundred bucks or so and mount some cyclocross tires on em and throw some really fast rubber on your stock light wheels. Two bikes in one. I'll have to admit, that this is more along the lines of what I was thinking. It's easier to experiment truing and fiddling with your wheels if you always have a spare to put on, so that you are ready to ride. Or if you do something bad (non-maintence-wise) to one of your wheels and it ends up looking like this. http://members.arstechnica.com/x/zuvembi/wheel-taco.jpg -- Dane Jackson - z u v e m b i @ u n i x b i g o t s . o r g Thinking you know something is a sure way to blind yourself. -- Frank Herbert, "Chapterhouse: Dune" |
#23
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On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 14:22:44 -0500, Badger wrote:
I'm just a little worried about fit problems and switching back and forth; is that a concern for most? As long as you get a wheel with the appropriate cassette for your drivetrain, switching wheels should take sixty seconds with a little practice. Just make sure that the rear wheel is equidistant from the chainstays before clamping the quick release and you'll be fine. |
#24
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(Uh, in case you missed the 'Fravia' reference, he ran an infamous
"hacker's challenge" back in the middle 90s, and only those that won got to put the honorary '+' in front of their online handle.) oh no! the '+' i use is not in anyway related to the 'Fravia' - it is just that i want to stay +ve i guess i shall continue to use it (for my own reasons) until someone has an issue with me doing so. thanks for that interesting tit-bit. +ravi |
#25
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On Fri, 12 Nov 2004 10:18:08 -0800, Ravi wrote:
(Uh, in case you missed the 'Fravia' reference, he ran an infamous "hacker's challenge" back in the middle 90s, and only those that won got to put the honorary '+' in front of their online handle.) oh no! the '+' i use is not in anyway related to the 'Fravia' - it is just that i want to stay +ve i guess i shall continue to use it (for my own reasons) until someone has an issue with me doing so. thanks for that interesting tit-bit. +ravi Sorry, didn't mean to suggest that anyone accidently using the "+" on their handle was a poseur, or not entitled, not at all. Plus this was a long time ago (1995ish). Just didn't want to pass up greetz to a fellow reverser. ;-) All the Best, -B |
#26
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Badger Wrote: On Thu, 11 Nov 2004 13:54:36 GMT, "Peter Cole" wrote: "Badger" wrote Then he tells me "it's going to take over an hour to true the wheel." (!) Followed by: "...and this is going to cost, b/c these wheels are hard to true". I'm just surprised that a wheel would take an hour to true. It's a typical Trek race wheel, though with less spokes. http://tinyurl.com/3nqgm A hybrid with low spoke count wheels is like a minivan with a hood scoop. Haha, good one. Well, blame Trek. I don't make 'em, I just bought one off the rack. ;-) Maybe Mike J. can chime in and explain why this odd config of race wheels on a hybrid? If you had standard wheels it would be a simple matter to learn to true them yourself. Checking wheels, brakes, bars/cranks/stems for cracks, adjusting cables, etc. should be skills mastered by cyclists. The reason is that it's just impractical to bring a bike into the shop frequently enough for this if you ride a lot. I was told by the LBS guys that if I did this I'd only mess up the adjustment, to bring it in instead. I check those things before I ride, but with my lousy vision not sure I'd be able to see a crack. I had to get help reading the max pressure on the new tire, lol. If you had standard wheels, I'd say the mechanic was full of it, but never having worked on wheels like those, I don't know, he may have been telling it like it is. According to another poster, he had his done in 15-20 minutes. I don't understand why the mechanic kept saying 'on the bike' and 'off the bike' truing (or something like that). So if I did decide to learn these things, where would I go for instruction? Thanks for the input, PC. -B There are good mechanics and bad ones. This is what I know. Truing can take five or even an hour or two depending upon the type of wheel you have, how out of true the wheel is, if the wheel has a hop, if the spoke tension of the spokes is completely off, or finally the mechanics skill. I have had all my wheels hand built by the same mechanic for several years. I live in Brooklyn, NY and ride all over including streets that have pot holes every 5ft. I ride everyday and in the past year have had my wheels trued twice. First time was minor 10min job second was a redish an true 30min job. Sounds like you have a bad mechanic. Here are a few simple tips that might help you in the future. Turn your bike upside down and spin your wheel look at how the rim passes the brake pad. Does it hit the pad or come near to hitting the pad in some sections of the wheel? If so the wheel is out of true. When you ride do you feel a thump in either the front or rear wheel? If so you may have a tire that needs to be replaced or one that was put on improperly or you have a hop in your wheel. Trust your gut. If you just purchased a new wheel or bike then you should need to have your wheels trued the next day since shops true the prepackaged wheels before they sell them. Don't forget to get off the saddle before you hit the pothole or bump in the road. This will save you from having to true your wheels often. Again, unless you hit something or drop your bike off the bike rack etc... something serious, your mechanic should not be working on your wheel for 60min. Heck a good mechanic can built and true a wheel in an hour. S -- sheila98 |
#27
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On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 09:30:22 +1100, sheila98
wrote: There are good mechanics and bad ones. This is what I know. Truing can take five or even an hour or two depending upon the type of wheel you have, how out of true the wheel is, if the wheel has a hop, if the spoke tension of the spokes is completely off, or finally the mechanics skill. OK, be aware that I have a wheel with less spokes than usual, standard build on the Trek 7500FX, and, it appears, on any of the basic road bikes above the bottom of the line. I have had all my wheels hand built by the same mechanic for several years. I live in Brooklyn, NY and ride all over including streets that have pot holes every 5ft. I ride everyday and in the past year have had my wheels trued twice. First time was minor 10min job second was a redish an true 30min job. Sounds like you have a bad mechanic. Here are a few simple tips that might help you in the future. Turn your bike upside down and spin your wheel look at how the rim passes the brake pad. Does it hit the pad or come near to hitting the pad in some sections of the wheel? If so the wheel is out of true. When you ride do you feel a thump in either the front or rear wheel? If so you may have a tire that needs to be replaced or one that was put on improperly or you have a hop in your wheel. When stand in front of the bike and lightly apply the brakes and roll the tire, it grabs at one particular spot. When braking moderately hard, there is an alarming 'thump/grab' feeling. After getting it home, and supposedly 'fixed', the problem remains. I rode it around the parking lot to try and preclude bringing it home with the problem unsolved, and I must not have applied the brakes, in test mode, hard enough. Just for reference, the bike rode home in the back, inside the car, placed gently on the non-deraileur side. Trust your gut. If you just purchased a new wheel or bike then you should need to have your wheels trued the next day since shops true the "should" or "should not"? prepackaged wheels before they sell them. Don't forget to get off the saddle before you hit the pothole or bump in the road. This will save you from having to true your wheels often. No potholes where I ride, so I'm clear there. I believe this problem occurred when the tire blew while topping off before a ride. The mechanic keeps saying 'you ran over something'...not 'did you run over something?', as though I'm trying to deceive him or something. Turns out he was able to true it in 5 minutes and was just in a bad mood and didn't want to look at it when I brought it in. Guess he realized how much fun I have driving back and forth to the shop to fix something that he should never have let me leave the shop in disrepair. He's told me a couple times that he's ridden the bike around the parking lot after minor adjustments, but not sure I believe him. Again, unless you hit something or drop your bike off the bike rack etc... something serious, your mechanic should not be working on your wheel for 60min. Heck a good mechanic can built and true a wheel in an hour. Nope, didn't hit anything, didn't drop it. Thx for the valuable input, S. -B S -- sheila98 |
#28
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Badger Wrote: On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 09:30:22 +1100, sheila98 wrote: There are good mechanics and bad ones. This is what I know. Truing can take five or even an hour or two depending upon the type of wheel you have, how out of true the wheel is, if the wheel has a hop, if the spoke tension of the spokes is completely off, or finally the mechanics skill. OK, be aware that I have a wheel with less spokes than usual, standard build on the Trek 7500FX, and, it appears, on any of the basic road bikes above the bottom of the line. I have had all my wheels hand built by the same mechanic for several years. I live in Brooklyn, NY and ride all over including streets that have pot holes every 5ft. I ride everyday and in the past year have had my wheels trued twice. First time was minor 10min job second was a redish an true 30min job. Sounds like you have a bad mechanic. Here are a few simple tips that might help you in the future. Turn your bike upside down and spin your wheel look at how the rim passes the brake pad. Does it hit the pad or come near to hitting the pad in some sections of the wheel? If so the wheel is out of true. When you ride do you feel a thump in either the front or rear wheel? If so you may have a tire that needs to be replaced or one that was put on improperly or you have a hop in your wheel. When stand in front of the bike and lightly apply the brakes and roll the tire, it grabs at one particular spot. When braking moderately hard, there is an alarming 'thump/grab' feeling. After getting it home, and supposedly 'fixed', the problem remains. I rode it around the parking lot to try and preclude bringing it home with the problem unsolved, and I must not have applied the brakes, in test mode, hard enough. Just for reference, the bike rode home in the back, inside the car, placed gently on the non-deraileur side. Trust your gut. If you just purchased a new wheel or bike then you should need to have your wheels trued the next day since shops true the "should" or "should not"? prepackaged wheels before they sell them. Don't forget to get off the saddle before you hit the pothole or bump in the road. This will save you from having to true your wheels often. No potholes where I ride, so I'm clear there. I believe this problem occurred when the tire blew while topping off before a ride. The mechanic keeps saying 'you ran over something'...not 'did you run over something?', as though I'm trying to deceive him or something. Turns out he was able to true it in 5 minutes and was just in a bad mood and didn't want to look at it when I brought it in. Guess he realized how much fun I have driving back and forth to the shop to fix something that he should never have let me leave the shop in disrepair. He's told me a couple times that he's ridden the bike around the parking lot after minor adjustments, but not sure I believe him. Again, unless you hit something or drop your bike off the bike rack etc... something serious, your mechanic should not be working on your wheel for 60min. Heck a good mechanic can built and true a wheel in an hour. Nope, didn't hit anything, didn't drop it. Thx for the valuable input, S. -B S -- sheila98 *The number of spokes really dosen't matter. The only difference is the type of spoke wrench that is used, i.e., mavic kysariums, shimano, cane creek, fir carbon fiber wheels all use spoke wrenches specific to that particular wheel design. The process for truing is the same no matter what wheels you have. For examply, you true Rolf vector wheels the same way you would the mavic kysariums. The mechanic just uses a different spoke wrench. * *Any good mechanic worth his salt keeps up with the new technology. Don't get hung up on spoke number. Wheels are built and trued by specific spoke tension. Loosening some spokes and tightening others and measuring overall spoke tension is how one trues a wheel. Keep in mind that this is a very simple explanation. One has to know what spoke to loosen or tighten and how much. Again this is a simple explanation but all wheels are trued using the same procedure. * *Now as far as your brake grabbing this could be a couple of things.* *1: take your wheel off the bike remove the skewer and make sure you have two skewer springs, one on either side of where the fork blades would sit. If you only have one your wheel will move to one side. ie brake pad will hit rim on one side.* *2: make sure your hub is not loose. Grab the wheel in your hand (wheel is still on bike) and try to move it side to side. If it has a lot of play this can cause your brake to hit and grab.* *3: While wheel is on bike spin wheel and hit the brake lever with the same amount of pressure you were using when you initially found the problem. Do the brake arms move equally at the same time. You have V-brakes both the arms should have the same amount of movement. If the don't you may need to adjust the brake spring, brake pads, overall brake adjustment.* *90% of bikes that come into our shop who have this grabby brake issue need to have the brake spring adjusted. Often, grabby brakes are due to one caliper arm not pivoting freely. This means the spring needs adjustment or repositioning or it is just plain broken. * *I think you really need to go to another shop if you can. If you can't you should e-mail your issues to one of if not the best mechanics in the local bike shop industry. Sheldon Brown from Harris Cyclery. He answers all his emails and gives great advice. * *[image: http://sheldonbrown.com/images/email-captbike.gif]* Hope this helps -- sheila98 |
#29
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On Sat, 13 Nov 2004 12:18:07 +1100, sheila98
wrote: *Now as far as your brake grabbing this could be a couple of things.* *1: take your wheel off the bike remove the skewer and make sure you have two skewer springs, one on either side of where the fork blades would sit. If you only have one your wheel will move to one side. ie brake pad will hit rim on one side.* OK, but if you recall, the wheel started doing this one day and was not doing it the previous day. The skewer has not been out of the wheel to my knowledge. I'll ask about this though. *2: make sure your hub is not loose. Grab the wheel in your hand (wheel is still on bike) and try to move it side to side. If it has a lot of play this can cause your brake to hit and grab.* Just checked. Hub ok. *3: While wheel is on bike spin wheel and hit the brake lever with the same amount of pressure you were using when you initially found the problem. Do the brake arms move equally at the same time. You have V-brakes both the arms should have the same amount of movement. If the don't you may need to adjust the brake spring, brake pads, overall brake adjustment.* I'll print parts of this and refer to it when I take it in. I doubt if he'll listen to me and actually remove the skewer and look. I'll get some new brake pads put on the front while I'm there, it's about time for that. *90% of bikes that come into our shop who have this grabby brake issue need to have the brake spring adjusted. Often, grabby brakes are due to one caliper arm not pivoting freely. This means the spring needs adjustment or repositioning or it is just plain broken. * OK, but remember the only thing that happened was the tire blew on pumping it up. Nothing else was changed, and prior to this the brakes were adjusted perfectly. (not disputing you...just being clear, here) *I think you really need to go to another shop if you can. If you can't you should e-mail your issues to one of if not the best mechanics in the local bike shop industry. Sheldon Brown from Harris Cyclery. He answers all his emails and gives great advice. * SB monitors this ng. I'm not sure of my explanation of the problem to trouble him at this point, but I'll keep it in mind. Thx a bunch. -B |
#30
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Badger_South wrote in part:
Maybe Mike J. can chime in and explain why this odd config of race wheels on a hybrid? Not Mike J but... It's the same reason that they put those toy suspension forks on there-- preference of ignorant consumers. Just tryin to sell more bikes. Robert |
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