Opinions on UDC chomoly hub/square tapers

Hi folks, I just ordered a UDC 48 hole chromoly hub.

I am looking for opinions about this hub, as well as any knowledge
about the variety of taper used for the crankarm interface.

In the bicycle world, square taper bottom brackets are usually JIS
(e.g. Sugino) or ISO standard (post-1994 Campagnolo).

What taper is used on the UDC hub? I ask because I may try to save a
bit by using some identical left-side bicycle crankarms I have lying
around unused. Is there any reason not to use left-side bicycle
crankarms assuming they are for the correct taper?

I am hoping (assuming?) this UDC chromoly hub will fit in my Rick
Hunter 29"/700c unicycle. I know the Hunter has a 40mm bearing spec and
was designed for the Profile hub. I can't afford the profile hub right
now, and I have a new, unused Mavic T519 48 hole 700c rim that I can
use for my wheel. I ordered a Schwalbe Big Apple tire to use for my
street/commuting purpose.

The UDC site says that the UDC 48 hole chomoly hub has 17 x 40-mm
double-seal bearings. Think these will fit my Hunter?


--
centralvalley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
centralvalley's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/16082
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

centralvalley wrote:

Is there any reason not to use left-side bicycle crankarms assuming
they are for the correct taper?




Bicycle Crankarms tend to be on the longside (especially if you're
riding on the road with a 29"). And you have to cut down the
spider/chainring attachments on the right side.


--
GizmoDuck

The Uninam Tour 2008.....Hanoi to Saigon!!! www.uninam.net

The Monguni 2009....Unicycle Tour of Mongolia

Email me for details.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
GizmoDuck's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/794
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

centralvalley wrote:
Is there any reason not to use left-side bicycle crankarms assuming they
are for the correct taper?



If you use two left hand crank arms on a unicycle you will find the
lefthand crankarm you put on the righthand side is at risk of coming
loose while riding and the thread will strip out if you carry on
riding.

This is same thing that happens when newbies put the wheel in the wrong
way round in their unicycle frame and wonder why the pedals fall out
while riding.

You can quite easily buy 'square taper cranks for unicycles'
(http://tinyurl.com/6xkze) (they are also known as cotterless) cheap
ones only cost $12


--
Jim
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Jim's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/9416
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

If you have a left crank on the right side you should add an 'insert'
(http://www.unicycle.com/shopping/shopexd.asp?id=422) to reverse the
thread so you can use a right side petal. The insert itself isn't that
expensive but the tool needed to put it in apparently is.

The UDC hub is very solid, I have wrecked a few pairs of cranks on a
couple unicycles with the 36-hole version of this hub and the hubs
themselves are still in perfect condition.

Are you planning on using your Hunter for road riding or MUni? Bike
cranks are a good length for MUni but are really quite long for road
riding.

I have no idea what taper the hub has but I did put some cranks on one
from an old (1970/80s) road bike once and it worked fine.


--
saskatchewanian

john_childs wrote:
The difference between 1.5 meters and 6 feet is just to do with the
exchange rate. 1.5 Canadian meters are now worth 6 US feet.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
saskatchewanian's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14180
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

I do intend to ride the Hunter on the streets, and to commute to work on
it.

I found some Sugino cranks online that are reasonably priced and have
both right and left side versions available, addressing the threading
issue:

http://tinyurl.com/yqmtj4

I am thinking to go with the 152mm cranks for street use, longer for
MUNI rides.

I am still rather perplexed with bearing sizes. I know the Hunter takes
40mm bearings, yet I see a variety of widths for 40mm bearings. I am
hoping (with a longer-term view) to eventually put a Schlumpf GUNI hub
in it, and it looks like the 2008 model will not require a torque arm
and the square taper version takes a 40mm bearing specification.

Is anyone out there using a UDC hub on a Hunter?

Thanks for all the help, folks!


--
centralvalley
------------------------------------------------------------------------
centralvalley's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/16082
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Expect cotterless cranks to break frequently if you ride anything other
than smooth trails.

If you intend to go off road on a geared hub, I'd get the KH when it
comes out. If you break the square taper on the cotterless version
that would be very expensive to replace.


--
skilewis74

Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
time do it along the way.
Bob Bernquist on how to improve significantly.

yunisyko wrote:
it's all about balls. i lose them often and then get em back.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
skilewis74's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12404
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

They seem to fit fine. I like them, they seem light and well crafted,
perhaps they are forged, I don't know. They have about 10 mm q a side,
which is ok by me, but maybe not for everyone.

All of the 40 mm uni bearings I have seen are 12 mm wide. I don't know
about the Hunter though.


--
feel the light
------------------------------------------------------------------------
feel the light's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14551
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

Is measured from center of bearing to center of bearing. So measure from
center of bearing holder to center of bearing holder on the legs of
your Hunter. That will tell you what size to shop for. Most of my uni's
are 100 mm. Some of the udc hubs are wider then that I think, at least
for the 36.

I think any 40 mm bearing hub will fit in your hunter, as long as the
bearing spacing is correct.


--
feel the light
------------------------------------------------------------------------
feel the light's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/14551
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

skilewis74 wrote:
Expect cotterless cranks to break frequently if you ride anything other
than smooth trails.

If you intend to go off road on a geared hub, I'd get the KH when it
comes out. If you break the square taper on the cotterless version
that would be very expensive to replace.


I've had no experience riding cotterless cranks off road myself, I was
just repeating what I've read on here DOSENS of times.

According to 'this thread'
(http://www.unicyclist.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=44039), if you don't
do any drops, cotterless hub/cranks are fine as long as you get strong
ones.


--
skilewis74

Ride everywhere and never just ride anywhere. If you can ride where you
are going within a hour, do it, and if you can do a trick 50-75% of the
time do it along the way.
Bob Bernquist on how to improve significantly.

yunisyko wrote:
it's all about balls. i lose them often and then get em back.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
skilewis74's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12404
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com

152s on a 29er are pretty long for street riding. I use the 150 hole on
my KH29 for more technical muni, and the 125 hole for less technical
trails. On the road, 125s are as long as you'd want; 112s or even 102s
might be preferable. I don't really ride on the road much, so can't
comment a lot on that aspect, but others on the fora generally find
that 125s are a reasonable length for most people on the road when
riding a 36er, so shorter may be called for in your particular
application.


--
pkittle

*==========================
Peter Kittle * Chico, CA
"The Revolution is just a t-shirt away."
--Billy Bragg
==========================*
------------------------------------------------------------------------
pkittle's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/12111
View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/66003


Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
----------------------------------------------------------
** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY **
----------------------------------------------------------
http://www.usenet.com