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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
On a bicycle trailer, facing outward, the wheel axle
fits into a hole. Here, the dome nut is free so most tools will do. On the other, inward side, there isn't a hole but a horizontal gap. Here, there isn't a lot of space so a socket wrench or ratchet I suppose is preferrable. 1) Is there a reason for the gap (instead of hole), like room to adjust after an injury to the frame, or so? And 2), is there a method how to get the wheel plain straight? No matter how careful I do it, it seems I pull the axle a little bit out of the original alignment with that last pull to seal it. 3) Speaking of dome nuts, some have grooves, if that means you don't use a washer, what has more strength, plain + washer or just grooves? Thanks for all your help. -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 29 Blogomatic articles - |
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#2
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 07:10:55 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: On a bicycle trailer, facing outward, the wheel axle fits into a hole. Here, the dome nut is free so most tools will do. On the other, inward side, there isn't a hole but a horizontal gap. Here, there isn't a lot of space so a socket wrench or ratchet I suppose is preferrable. 1) Is there a reason for the gap (instead of hole), like room to adjust after an injury to the frame, or so? I'm not sure you explained that sufficiently, but if you mean that the outboard end of the axle is aligned by fitting through a hole and the inboard end fits in a slot and can be wiggled back and forth I would guess that is an design feature which is intended to allow for sloppy fit ups and misalignment during manufacture. And 2), is there a method how to get the wheel plain straight? No matter how careful I do it, it seems I pull the axle a little bit out of the original alignment with that last pull to seal it. Very careful twisting the wrench :-) That is a joke but essentially true. You will need to learn how to tighten a nut/bolt by twisting only, no pulling on long wrench handles which dislocates things. 3) Speaking of dome nuts, some have grooves, if that means you don't use a washer, what has more strength, plain + washer or just grooves? By "grooves" I assume that you mean grooves on the face of the nut as an anti-loosen feature, but that doesn't have anything to do with the strength of the nut-axle joining which would be a feature of the nut and axle thread engagement. Thanks for all your help. -- Cheers, John B. |
#3
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
On 4/29/2016 12:10 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
On a bicycle trailer, facing outward, the wheel axle fits into a hole. Here, the dome nut is free so most tools will do. On the other, inward side, there isn't a hole but a horizontal gap. Here, there isn't a lot of space so a socket wrench or ratchet I suppose is preferrable. 1) Is there a reason for the gap (instead of hole), like room to adjust after an injury to the frame, or so? And 2), is there a method how to get the wheel plain straight? No matter how careful I do it, it seems I pull the axle a little bit out of the original alignment with that last pull to seal it. 3) Speaking of dome nuts, some have grooves, if that means you don't use a washer, what has more strength, plain + washer or just grooves? Thanks for all your help. I don't fully understand your situation as described but generally a wheel which 'walks' when the fastener is tightened will respond well to oil on threads and faces. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#4
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
On 4/29/2016 1:10 AM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
On a bicycle trailer, facing outward, the wheel axle fits into a hole. Here, the dome nut is free so most tools will do. On the other, inward side, there isn't a hole but a horizontal gap. Here, there isn't a lot of space so a socket wrench or ratchet I suppose is preferrable. 1) Is there a reason for the gap (instead of hole), like room to adjust after an injury to the frame, or so? And 2), is there a method how to get the wheel plain straight? No matter how careful I do it, it seems I pull the axle a little bit out of the original alignment with that last pull to seal it. 3) Speaking of dome nuts, some have grooves, if that means you don't use a washer, what has more strength, plain + washer or just grooves? Thanks for all your help. I think a link to a photo would help us understand your problem. There are lots of designs of bicycle trailers. But: It sounds like you're describing some sort of a slot to allow for wheel alignment. If pulling a wrench handle moves the attachment point, perhaps you're applying force parallel to the slot? If so, can you apply the wrench with the handle parallel to the slot, and apply force to the handle perpendicular to the slot? Assuming the width of the slot is close to the axle thickness, things shouldn't move much in that direction. Alternately, there are wrenches with T handles, that allow you to apply pure torque with no sideways force. Perhaps you can use such a wrench, if there's room. Or perhaps you can simply have a helper apply force to the wheel to prevent alignment from changing as you tighten things. About the nut: It sounds like you're talking about a serrated face nut: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serrated_face_nut Assuming the metal it clamps against is soft enough to take a slight impression, this should resist loosening better than a plain nut plus flat washer. But generally, I much prefer other nut locking methods - say a nut with a nylon insert https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut or (my favorite) an anaerobic thread lock compound. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#5
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
John B. writes:
I'm not sure you explained that sufficiently, but if you mean that the outboard end of the axle is aligned by fitting through a hole and the inboard end fits in a slot and can be wiggled back and forth I would guess that is an design feature which is intended to allow for sloppy fit ups and misalignment during manufacture. OK, manufacture - of course! I don't know why I assumed it would be perfect just because it is made in a factory... And 2), is there a method how to get the wheel plain straight? No matter how careful I do it, it seems I pull the axle a little bit out of the original alignment with that last pull to seal it. Very careful twisting the wrench :-) That is a joke but essentially true. You will need to learn how to tighten a nut/bolt by twisting only, no pulling on long wrench handles which dislocates things. OK 3) Speaking of dome nuts, some have grooves, if that means you don't use a washer, what has more strength, plain + washer or just grooves? By "grooves" I assume that you mean grooves on the face of the nut as an anti-loosen feature, but that doesn't have anything to do with the strength of the nut-axle joining which would be a feature of the nut and axle thread engagement. Yes, thats what I mean, "anti-loosen", then! Does one hold better than the other in general? Or roughly the same? -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 29 Blogomatic articles - |
#6
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
Frank Krygowski writes:
It sounds like you're describing some sort of a slot to allow for wheel alignment. If pulling a wrench handle moves the attachment point, perhaps you're applying force parallel to the slot? If so, can you apply the wrench with the handle parallel to the slot, and apply force to the handle perpendicular to the slot? Assuming the width of the slot is close to the axle thickness, things shouldn't move much in that direction. Interesting. So if the handle is put X-ways before the pull, and then moved into Y-ways, that should minimize movement along the slot... Alternately, there are wrenches with T handles, that allow you to apply pure torque with no sideways force. Perhaps you can use such a wrench, if there's room. Interesting (again). Yes, I have those, but only with hex keys, not sockets. But perhaps I can assemble one with bits now that I think about it... About the nut: It sounds like you're talking about a serrated face nut: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serrated_face_nut Assuming the metal it clamps against is soft enough to take a slight impression, this should resist loosening better than a plain nut plus flat washer. OK! But generally, I much prefer other nut locking methods - say a nut with a nylon insert https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut Yes, I have several buckets of those but they are harder to put in. Also, some people say they can't be operated several times without loosing their property. Maybe it is just slander... With them, I take it you don't need a flat washer? or (my favorite) an anaerobic thread lock compound. OK, never heard of -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 29 Blogomatic articles - |
#7
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
AMuzi writes:
I don't fully understand your situation as described Ha ha, no But the other guys understood, and reading their posts, I'm sure you understand as well, so if you don't mind, feel free to add to their stories -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 29 Blogomatic articles - |
#8
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
On 4/29/2016 4:04 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Frank Krygowski writes: It sounds like you're describing some sort of a slot to allow for wheel alignment. If pulling a wrench handle moves the attachment point, perhaps you're applying force parallel to the slot? If so, can you apply the wrench with the handle parallel to the slot, and apply force to the handle perpendicular to the slot? Assuming the width of the slot is close to the axle thickness, things shouldn't move much in that direction. Interesting. So if the handle is put X-ways before the pull, and then moved into Y-ways, that should minimize movement along the slot... Alternately, there are wrenches with T handles, that allow you to apply pure torque with no sideways force. Perhaps you can use such a wrench, if there's room. Interesting (again). Yes, I have those, but only with hex keys, not sockets. But perhaps I can assemble one with bits now that I think about it... About the nut: It sounds like you're talking about a serrated face nut: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serrated_face_nut Assuming the metal it clamps against is soft enough to take a slight impression, this should resist loosening better than a plain nut plus flat washer. OK! But generally, I much prefer other nut locking methods - say a nut with a nylon insert https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nyloc_nut Yes, I have several buckets of those but they are harder to put in. Also, some people say they can't be operated several times without loosing their property. Maybe it is just slander... With them, I take it you don't need a flat washer? or (my favorite) an anaerobic thread lock compound. OK, never heard of In the U.S. at least, Loctite is the classic brand name. I believe they invented the stuff. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#9
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
John B. writes:
Very careful twisting the wrench :-) That is a joke but essentially true. You will need to learn how to tighten a nut/bolt by twisting only, no pulling on long wrench handles which dislocates things. After trying an embarrassingly long time, the wheels are now aligned! Amazing! I did it by starting with the slot side, using the socket wrench perpendicularly, like a "ratchet screwdriver" (Swedish "hylsmejsel" = literally "socket driver" which describes it well - according to Google Translate it is the bland "ratchet screwdriver" tho so I suppose that is it) - I have a bunch of those, whatever they are called, but only in 8 and 10 mm, and with bits, up to 13 mm. This nut is 14 mm, and I don't have that in this particular configuration, but perhaps I'll ask for it next time I visit Crooks"R"Us... -- underground experts united .... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 Emacs Gnus Blogomatic ......... http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573/blogomatic - so far: 29 Blogomatic articles - |
#10
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trailer: hole, gap, washer, grooves, and dome nuts
On Fri, 29 Apr 2016 21:47:23 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: John B. writes: I'm not sure you explained that sufficiently, but if you mean that the outboard end of the axle is aligned by fitting through a hole and the inboard end fits in a slot and can be wiggled back and forth I would guess that is an design feature which is intended to allow for sloppy fit ups and misalignment during manufacture. OK, manufacture - of course! I don't know why I assumed it would be perfect just because it is made in a factory... And 2), is there a method how to get the wheel plain straight? No matter how careful I do it, it seems I pull the axle a little bit out of the original alignment with that last pull to seal it. Very careful twisting the wrench :-) That is a joke but essentially true. You will need to learn how to tighten a nut/bolt by twisting only, no pulling on long wrench handles which dislocates things. OK 3) Speaking of dome nuts, some have grooves, if that means you don't use a washer, what has more strength, plain + washer or just grooves? By "grooves" I assume that you mean grooves on the face of the nut as an anti-loosen feature, but that doesn't have anything to do with the strength of the nut-axle joining which would be a feature of the nut and axle thread engagement. Yes, thats what I mean, "anti-loosen", then! Does one hold better than the other in general? Or roughly the same? I'm not sure. The serrated face nuts are quite widely used in automobiles, I believe. But are not used at all on aircraft, to my knowledge. On the other hand while automobile operators certainly get upset at having to get out and walk aircraft operators get positively rabid. :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
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