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#1
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Stem bolt failure
Have a Cinelli Solido/Solado stem/bar combination. On Saturday the stem
bolts went on me while riding, now a pretty sight. The stem is about 2 years old and maybe 20,000km on it, no previous crashes. It has been suggested by several people that light weight stuff should be replaced every couple of years at least. I don't race, so the weight issue is a non event for me. I weigh about 200lbs, and want/need something sturdy. About 3 years ago I broke a set of Deda handlebars, cracked right through while riding, getting pretty concerned with the lifespan of some of these things... I ride a Litespeed Siena, about 1 year old. Any recommendations for something sturdy, 120 stem and 44 bars. Thanks |
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#2
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Stem bolt failure
Are you being careful about torque ? If you overtighten stem bolts,
they'll break off and you can stress your bars leading to failure. Step one - buy a torque wrench. That being said, there's a lot of lightweight crap out there. I'm about to change a set of Deda bars pre-emptively after 5 seasons/23,000 miles. I also went through a couple of stems with my last bike purchase - slipping bars, bending (luckily, not breaking) titanium stem bolts, retorquing after every few rides, etc. I had picked these all based on what was new and light at the time. Finally got smart and went to LBS for the 411. Hands down, the unbeatable stem for reliability is Thomson. Both of their stems (Elite and X-2) are milled from solid blocks of aluminum, no welds. The Elite weighs 190 g and has a 4 bolt faceplate (sturdy steel bolts). Only comes as 26.0. I can vouch for this one as I're ridden it for 3 1/2 years and never given it a second thought (other than to admire it). Their new one, the X-2, has a hollowed out area on the 2 bolt faceplate and a hollowed out area on the steerer clamp - about 155 g, I think, and available in 31.8. Here's website: http://www.lhthomson.com/ Good luck..........Lou D'Amelio |
#3
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Stem bolt failure
Colin Marshall wrote:
Have a Cinelli Solido/Solado stem/bar combination. On Saturday the stem bolts went on me while riding, now a pretty sight. The stem is about 2 years old and maybe 20,000km on it, no previous crashes. It has been suggested by several people that light weight stuff should be replaced every couple of years at least. I don't race, so the weight issue is a non event for me. I weigh about 200lbs, and want/need something sturdy. About 3 years ago I broke a set of Deda handlebars, cracked right through while riding, getting pretty concerned with the lifespan of some of these things... I ride a Litespeed Siena, about 1 year old. Any recommendations for something sturdy, 120 stem and 44 bars. You could just replace the bolts if the stem isn't stripped. |
#4
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Stem bolt failure
Lou D'Amelio wrote: Hands down, the unbeatable stem for reliability is Thomson. Both of their stems (Elite and X-2) are milled from solid blocks of aluminum, no welds. Based on what? Forging is superior to milling from a solid block... the best stems are all forged these days. Some test data on stems can be found he http://www.biketechreview.com/stems/summary.htm |
#5
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Stem bolt failure
Ron Ruff wrote:
Lou D'Amelio wrote: Hands down, the unbeatable stem for reliability is Thomson. Both of their stems (Elite and X-2) are milled from solid blocks of aluminum, no welds. Based on what? Forging is superior to milling from a solid block... the best stems are all forged these days. Somebody better tell Boeing that they're making all their airplanes using inferior techniques! Forging *can* make a stronger, more durable part than machining. However, machining often allows the use of a stronger material, better part geometry, or better finish and tolerances than forging, at the same or lower cost. Any of these other factors can have a bigger effect on strength and durability than the relatively small property differences between forgings and wrought bars. Chalo Colina |
#6
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Stem bolt failure
"Ron Ruff" wrote in message Some test data on stems can be found he http://www.biketechreview.com/stems/summary.htm I looked at the link but couldn't get past the fact that they have the equation wrong. Cantilever beam deflection is PL^3/3EI not PL^3/16EI. I assume the rest is also unreliable. |
#7
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Stem bolt failure
Colin Marshall wrote:
Have a Cinelli Solido/Solado stem/bar combination. On Saturday the stem bolts went on me while riding, now a pretty sight. The stem is about 2 years old and maybe 20,000km on it, no previous crashes. It has been suggested by several people that light weight stuff should be replaced every couple of years at least. I don't race, so the weight issue is a non event for me. I weigh about 200lbs, and want/need something sturdy. About 3 years ago I broke a set of Deda handlebars, cracked right through while riding, getting pretty concerned with the lifespan of some of these things... I ride a Litespeed Siena, about 1 year old. Any recommendations for something sturdy, 120 stem and 44 bars. Thanks yes. you should pre-emptively replace this stuff. disregard the "racing" definition - you're riding and putting on the miles. that's fatigue loading. as mentioned by lou, use a torque wrench. buy quality gear. make sure the stem clamp at the handlebar has slightly rounded edges - reduces stress risers. forged stems are best. |
#8
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Stem bolt failure
Lou D'Amelio wrote:
Are you being careful about torque ? If you overtighten stem bolts, they'll break off and you can stress your bars leading to failure. Step one - buy a torque wrench. That being said, there's a lot of lightweight crap out there. I'm about to change a set of Deda bars pre-emptively after 5 seasons/23,000 miles. I also went through a couple of stems with my last bike purchase - slipping bars, bending (luckily, not breaking) titanium stem bolts, retorquing after every few rides, etc. I had picked these all based on what was new and light at the time. Finally got smart and went to LBS for the 411. Hands down, the unbeatable stem for reliability is Thomson. Both of their stems (Elite and X-2) are milled from solid blocks of aluminum, no welds. no welds is good, but forged is much better. attention to detail like making sure the stem clamp has no sharp edges is paramount. The Elite weighs 190 g and has a 4 bolt faceplate (sturdy steel bolts). Only comes as 26.0. I can vouch for this one as I're ridden it for 3 1/2 years and never given it a second thought (other than to admire it). Their new one, the X-2, has a hollowed out area on the 2 bolt faceplate and a hollowed out area on the steerer clamp - about 155 g, I think, and available in 31.8. Here's website: http://www.lhthomson.com/ Good luck..........Lou D'Amelio |
#9
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Stem bolt failure
Colin Marshall wrote:
Have a Cinelli Solido/Solado stem/bar combination. On Saturday the stem bolts went on me while riding, now a pretty sight. The stem is about 2 years old and maybe 20,000km on it, no previous crashes. It has been suggested by several people that light weight stuff should be replaced every couple of years at least. I don't race, so the weight issue is a non event for me. I weigh about 200lbs, and want/need something sturdy. About 3 years ago I broke a set of Deda handlebars, cracked right through while riding, getting pretty concerned with the lifespan of some of these things... I ride a Litespeed Siena, about 1 year old. Don't use titanium stem bolts. ..stlob mets miunatit esu t'noD |
#10
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Stem bolt failure
Chalo wrote:
Ron Ruff wrote: Lou D'Amelio wrote: Hands down, the unbeatable stem for reliability is Thomson. Both of their stems (Elite and X-2) are milled from solid blocks of aluminum, no welds. Based on what? Forging is superior to milling from a solid block... the best stems are all forged these days. Somebody better tell Boeing that they're making all their airplanes using inferior techniques! Forging *can* make a stronger, more durable part than machining. However, machining often allows the use of a stronger material, better part geometry, or better finish and tolerances than forging, at the same or lower cost. This can't possibly be true across all economies of scale. If you were to mill 10,000 stems versus forge 10,000 stems, I'm sure that the forging process would save a whole heck of a lot of material. Sure, you need molds and all that stuff, but you can recoup initial investment after X number of stems. Then again, I saw an amazing video of a CNC machine (with a bajillion automatic tools) making aircraft wing ribs and holy crap, it taps threads while feeding and spinning at full speed (probably 3krpm)! Not to mention the stopping and reversing to unthread the tap before tapping more holes. The time investment may not be all that high, but I'll bet one goes through tools quickly on those things. Maybe I can get that video from my teacher... -- Phil, Squid-in-Training |
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