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#11
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hex entry at the back of pedal
AMuzi wrote:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$%28KGrHqZ,!lIE2EP64yPuBNhl+JMIDw~~_35.JPG?set_id= 8800005007 I love Knipex tools! Especially the Cobra and the combination pliers, tho they aren't used that frequently on bikes. The wire cutters are cool as well. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
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#12
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 9/29/2018 2:26 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 11:11:58 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote: On 9/29/2018 12:59 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Today I replaced the pedals on a modern bike with regular ones, which are just commodity items from the hardware store. The modern pedals are too short and, without using such shoes, the interface to fixate them becomes an uncomfortable blob under the foot. Anyway first thing I noticed was an entry for a hex key at the back of the pedal "screw block" (?) I removed the pedals just like a would with the single speed, old steel bikes, i.e. a long pipe, a 15mm wrench, a string to hold the crank to the chainstay, CRC 5-56 (probably not needed even), left pedal LT, right pedal regular, and so very little force needed for the pedal to come loose. So what is the reason for the hex entry and when do you use it? BTW does anyone have an image with pedal parts and terminology? I image googled but didn't find anything to that end. Pedal spindle (or axle - people use both terms) with allen broach: https://outdoorgearlab-mvnab3pwrvp3t...46_3693_XL.jpg offers faster assembly: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$%28KGrHqZ,!lIE2EP64yPuBNhl+JMIDw~~_35.JPG?set_id= 8800005007 Fully tighten, or break free to remove, with 15mm pedal wrench. Some pedals omit the wrench flats and have an 8mm allen broach only on the inside. Which I consider to be a huge step backwards. It's like putting the zipper pull for your fly on the inside -- or putting shoe laces under the tongue. -- Jay Beattie. Yeah, I was going to make unkind comments but riders who own them have suffered enough (or will). -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#13
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 23:01:46 +0200, Emanuel Berg
wrote: David Scheidt wrote: Typical torque spec for a 12.9 grade 10mm socket head screw, which is what has an 8mm hex socket, is 80 NM (~60 foot pounds). Shimano pedals are 35 or 40 NM (25 to 29 ft pounds), as I recall. If you can't do that with a hex bit, you are not competent to work on anything. 40nm, isn't that the typical casette torque? You are supposed to do that with an 8mm allen wrench? Not that I ever saw this situation first hand! BTW I don't think I put the pedals in that hard. I have a torque wrench but for sockets, not an open spanner - unless you can buy that as a separate part and plug it in? But I doubt they (the pedals) will get much deeper anyhow...? See https://www.tonetool.co.jp/english/p.../flyer_015.pdf -- Cheers John B. |
#14
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 9/29/2018 5:01 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote:
David Scheidt wrote: Typical torque spec for a 12.9 grade 10mm socket head screw, which is what has an 8mm hex socket, is 80 NM (~60 foot pounds). Shimano pedals are 35 or 40 NM (25 to 29 ft pounds), as I recall. If you can't do that with a hex bit, you are not competent to work on anything. 40nm, isn't that the typical casette torque? You are supposed to do that with an 8mm allen wrench? Not that I ever saw this situation first hand! As I mentioned in another thread: Our folding bikes (Bikes Friday) must have the pedals removed to pack them in their travel suitcase, for airline trips. The company supplies the tool kit, which includes a pedal wrench that seems to be laser burned out of a piece of flat steel. It's about 1/8" thick and 5" long. I was skeptical about its adequacy when we first got the bikes, but I've used it many times without problems. Pedal spindles tend to self-tighten into the crank arms anyway. Getting them out is more of a problem than tightening them sufficiently. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#15
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 19:49:42 -0400, Frank Krygowski wrote:
was skeptical about its adequacy when we first got the bikes, but I've used it many times without problems. Pedal spindles tend to self-tighten into the crank arms anyway. Getting them out is more of a problem than tightening them sufficiently. IME, I found a touch of grease on the thread makes it easier to remove them when required without resaorting to major toolage. It is part of my regular bearing maintenance. |
#16
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 2:01:49 PM UTC-7, Emanuel Berg wrote:
David Scheidt wrote: Typical torque spec for a 12.9 grade 10mm socket head screw, which is what has an 8mm hex socket, is 80 NM (~60 foot pounds). Shimano pedals are 35 or 40 NM (25 to 29 ft pounds), as I recall. If you can't do that with a hex bit, you are not competent to work on anything. 40nm, isn't that the typical casette torque? You are supposed to do that with an 8mm allen wrench? Not that I ever saw this situation first hand! BTW I don't think I put the pedals in that hard. I have a torque wrench but for sockets, not an open spanner - unless you can buy that as a separate part and plug it in? But I doubt they (the pedals) will get much deeper anyhow...? I'm not sure if I'm following, but all you do is put an 8mm hex socket on your torque wrench. https://images.homedepot-static.com/...77-64_1000.jpg Or buy an el-cheapo 8mm pedal wrench and just give it a good hard push. https://tinyurl.com/yc4n8z28 As for standard 15mm open-end pedal wrench, I never once saw a mechanic use an open end torque wrench, and historically, I just reefed on it a bit and called it good. Maybe others have a more scientific approach. I had one pedal come loose, but as Frank mentions, with bearing precession, the pedal should tighten. My pedal bearings were probably munged, or there was some other issue that caused the pedal to loosen besides low tightening torque. I bent the spindle on one of those pedals, too. -- Jay Beattie. |
#17
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hex entry at the back of pedal
Emanuel Berg wrote:
avid Scheidt wrote: : Typical torque spec for a 12.9 grade 10mm : socket head screw, which is what has an 8mm : hex socket, is 80 NM (~60 foot pounds). : Shimano pedals are 35 or 40 NM (25 to 29 ft : pounds), as I recall. If you can't do that : with a hex bit, you are not competent to work : on anything. :40nm, isn't that the typical casette torque? :You are supposed to do that with an 8mm allen :wrench? Not that I ever saw this situation :first hand! I can do 40 NM with a t-handle wrench. I admit I'm a big guy, with good hand strength, and have tightened lots of fasteners. with an L handled key, it's pretty easy. My long one is 15 cm long, so you need to put a force of 266 N on the end of it. so put a bit less than 30 kilos into it. assuming no muscle, that's a bit of a grunt, not that hard. Put a socket on a ratchet, and you can have a big lever, no problem. :BTW I don't think I put the pedals in that :hard. I have a torque wrench but for sockets, :not an open spanner - unless you can buy that :as a separate part and plug it in? What you'd want is called a 'crows foot wrench', a socket with an open end wrench on it. :But I doubt they (the pedals) will get much :deeper anyhow...? Tight pedals dont' move, which means they don't make noise. -- sig 88 |
#18
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 9/29/2018 10:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
As for standard 15mm open-end pedal wrench, I never once saw a mechanic use an open end torque wrench, and historically, I just reefed on it a bit and called it good. Maybe others have a more scientific approach. I had one pedal come loose, but as Frank mentions, with bearing precession, the pedal should tighten. My pedal bearings were probably munged, or there was some other issue that caused the pedal to loosen besides low tightening torque. One of the weirdest failures I remember: During a ride, a good friend of mine complained that his left pedal was giving him trouble. Eventually, it stopped rotating entirely. We couldn't get it to spin at all. So we pulled off the outside dust cap. One of his bearing balls was split perfectly in two. The two halves had jammed in the race and locked things up. I don't know why it split; the guy was certainly not a powerful rider. And BTW, the incident disproved one of the mythical reasons for left hand threads on the left pedal. The pedal did not unscrew from the crank. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#19
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 2018-09-29 21:12, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, September 29, 2018 at 12:36:21 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2018-09-29 11:12, AMuzi wrote: On 9/29/2018 12:59 PM, Emanuel Berg wrote: Today I replaced the pedals on a modern bike with regular ones, which are just commodity items from the hardware store. The modern pedals are too short and, without using such shoes, the interface to fixate them becomes an uncomfortable blob under the foot. You aren't supposed to ride click pedals with regular shoes :-) Anyway first thing I noticed was an entry for a hex key at the back of the pedal "screw block" (?) I removed the pedals just like a would with the single speed, old steel bikes, i.e. a long pipe, a 15mm wrench, a string to hold the crank to the chainstay, CRC 5-56 (probably not needed even), left pedal LT, right pedal regular, and so very little force needed for the pedal to come loose. So what is the reason for the hex entry and when do you use it? BTW does anyone have an image with pedal parts and terminology? I image googled but didn't find anything to that end. Pedal spindle (or axle - people use both terms) with allen broach: https://outdoorgearlab-mvnab3pwrvp3t...46_3693_XL.jpg offers faster assembly: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$%28KGrHqZ,!lIE2EP64yPuBNhl+JMIDw~~_35.JPG?set_id= 8800005007 Or use a power drill with an allen bit in there, faster. We even use a power drill to make bread dough. Fully tighten, or break free to remove, with 15mm pedal wrench. Some pedals omit the wrench flats and have an 8mm allen broach only on the inside. That sounds scary, I'd never buy those. 8mm ist too wimpy for a nice tight fit. Virtually every rider in the pro peleton has pedals tightened with an 8mm hex wrench. https://www.excelsports.com/assets/z...y/112594-5.jpg It's not a problem. It's just inconvenient as compared to the old days of wrench flats. Right up until the ******* spawn of Stan has ultrasonically vacuum ion fused itself to the crank. *Then* and only then, the Park Pedal wrench is brandished at it, just to let it know who is top of the evolutionary tree! |
#20
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hex entry at the back of pedal
On 2018-09-30 00:11, John B. Slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2018 23:01:46 +0200, Emanuel Berg wrote: David Scheidt wrote: Typical torque spec for a 12.9 grade 10mm socket head screw, which is what has an 8mm hex socket, is 80 NM (~60 foot pounds). Shimano pedals are 35 or 40 NM (25 to 29 ft pounds), as I recall. If you can't do that with a hex bit, you are not competent to work on anything. 40nm, isn't that the typical casette torque? You are supposed to do that with an 8mm allen wrench? Not that I ever saw this situation first hand! BTW I don't think I put the pedals in that hard. I have a torque wrench but for sockets, not an open spanner - unless you can buy that as a separate part and plug it in? But I doubt they (the pedals) will get much deeper anyhow...? See https://www.tonetool.co.jp/english/p.../flyer_015.pdf *******. |
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