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learn by destroying



 
 
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  #11  
Old December 16th 17, 08:14 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default learn by destroying

On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:16:38 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/16/2017 9:14 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 12/16/2017 5:12 AM, John B. wrote:


Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer
heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to
recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how
little actual lead was lost in use.


"as we had the mold".
I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle
stuck into the side of it.


Primitive but functional. Maybe you should consider purchasing a
proper mold?
http://www.cookhammer.com/make.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a4571/4329523/
http://www.grahamtool.com/leadhammermoldsets.aspx

:-) I've got exactly the same model hanging on my workshop pegboard
wall. Our son cast it in metal shop during middle school.

(I bet they're not allowed to do that now.)


OSHA allows lead casting, but requires considerable safety equipment
and proper procedures. Dealing with the fumes and the waste (dross)
are the main problems:
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/leadsmelter/refiningcasting/casting.html

"Any tool within reach can be used as a hammer"
(I think I said that long ago while working under my car).

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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  #12  
Old December 16th 17, 08:22 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Posts: 10,538
Default learn by destroying

On 12/16/2017 2:14 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:16:38 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/16/2017 9:14 AM, AMuzi wrote:
I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle
stuck into the side of it.


:-) I've got exactly the same model hanging on my workshop pegboard
wall. Our son cast it in metal shop during middle school.

(I bet they're not allowed to do that now.)


OSHA allows lead casting, but requires considerable safety equipment
and proper procedures. Dealing with the fumes and the waste (dross)
are the main problems:
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/leadsmelter/refiningcasting/casting.html


I don't doubt OSHA allows lead casting when properly done. I doubt the
local school allows it, though.

I happen to work on a local committee with a woman who's ex-president
of, and still a member of, the school board. She was behind a policy to
forbid volunteers using loppers to clear tree branches that were
blocking trails in our forest preserve. She's worried about liability.

My guess is that she won't allow lead in any form inside any school
building.


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #13  
Old December 16th 17, 08:34 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13,447
Default learn by destroying

On 12/16/2017 1:14 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:16:38 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/16/2017 9:14 AM, AMuzi wrote:
On 12/16/2017 5:12 AM, John B. wrote:


Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer
heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to
recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how
little actual lead was lost in use.


"as we had the mold".
I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water pipe handle
stuck into the side of it.


Primitive but functional. Maybe you should consider purchasing a
proper mold?
http://www.cookhammer.com/make.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a4571/4329523/
http://www.grahamtool.com/leadhammermoldsets.aspx

:-) I've got exactly the same model hanging on my workshop pegboard
wall. Our son cast it in metal shop during middle school.

(I bet they're not allowed to do that now.)


OSHA allows lead casting, but requires considerable safety equipment
and proper procedures. Dealing with the fumes and the waste (dross)
are the main problems:
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/leadsmelter/refiningcasting/casting.html

"Any tool within reach can be used as a hammer"
(I think I said that long ago while working under my car).


I was working in rented space which had been a print shop at
one time and there were piles of linotype in all the
corners. My quickly cast tool got the spinners on and off
my MG for many years:

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/...amwspic1_2.jpg

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #14  
Old December 17th 17, 03:32 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default learn by destroying

On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 08:14:37 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 12/16/2017 5:12 AM, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 18:38:09 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Dec 2017 19:23:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Once there was a guy who had a bounce free
hammer and I asked how it worked. He explained
the little balls going up and down. I was
terribly impressed by this. But then one day
I used one myself and slammed it open and could
see it all first hand. It was still a good
answer but quite possibly that's the way he had
found out as well. Somehow took the magic out
of it.

Perhaps you are thinking of a "dead blow hammer"?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer
https://www.google.com/search?q=dead+blow+hammer&tbm=isch
The good ones are full of tiny steel balls. The cheap junk uses sand.

"Learn by Destroying(tm)" also means that you really don't understand
how something works until you've broken it, taken it apart, and fixed
it. I've learned more from things I've broken than from playing with
the pretty knobs, reading the instructions, or using it for its
intended purpose.


Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer
heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to
recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how
little actual lead was lost in use.

As for Learning by destroying". After a number of years of replacing
bent, busted and broke eventually the penny will drop.... Read the
F...ing Manual. First!
--
Cheers,

John B.


"as we had the mold".
I cast my lead hammer in a steel can with a piece of water
pipe handle stuck into the side of it.


Totally non-classy.

What we did was make a hinged mold(s) which had a circular cutout for
the handles. Handles, from memory, were probably 14 - 15" long and had
a 1/4" pin pressed through one end protruding maybe a quarter of an
inch on each side. Stick the handle in the mold, close the handle,
pour full of lead, go on to the next one. We used to cast up probably
20, or so at a time and just about every machine had one somewhere
close - that shop chief got absolutely frantic if he saw a steel
hammer even close to any of the machines :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #15  
Old December 17th 17, 05:46 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default learn by destroying

On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 10:45:27 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Sat, 16 Dec 2017 18:12:57 +0700, John B.
wrote:

On Fri, 15 Dec 2017 18:38:09 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Thu, 14 Dec 2017 19:23:37 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

Once there was a guy who had a bounce free
hammer and I asked how it worked. He explained
the little balls going up and down. I was
terribly impressed by this. But then one day
I used one myself and slammed it open and could
see it all first hand. It was still a good
answer but quite possibly that's the way he had
found out as well. Somehow took the magic out
of it.

Perhaps you are thinking of a "dead blow hammer"?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dead_blow_hammer
https://www.google.com/search?q=dead+blow+hammer&tbm=isch
The good ones are full of tiny steel balls. The cheap junk uses sand.

"Learn by Destroying(tm)" also means that you really don't understand
how something works until you've broken it, taken it apart, and fixed
it. I've learned more from things I've broken than from playing with
the pretty knobs, reading the instructions, or using it for its
intended purpose.


Re "Dead Blow Hammers". For work in the shop we used to cast hammer
heads out of commercially pure lead. As we had the mold we used to
recast the hammers when the heads got badly banged up. Surprising how
little actual lead was lost in use.


Or, you can make your own:
https://i.pinimg.com/736x/ae/c4/b3/aec4b3b588620dcdf520590ffce00222--hammer-forging-war-hammer-weapons.jpg
When I was an impoverished student, I used one similar to this that
was lead fishing weights, larger size pipe, plastic caps, and a wood
handle. When it disappeared, I found a bronze hammer, which seemed to
work better than a lead hammer. I didn't have the facilities to
recast a lead hammer so brass worked well enough. Years later, the
plastic shot/sand filled hammers appeared, so I bought one of those
and retired the bronze hammer. When someone stole it, I replaced it
with a steel mallet with leather facing and a cheap soft face
(plastic) hammer with replaceable facing for the light pounding:
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=19377956&KPID=15216355

As for Learning by destroying". After a number of years of replacing
bent, busted and broke eventually the penny will drop.... Read the
F...ing Manual. First!


Never. I consider reading the manual a sign of weakness. If my
customers see me reading the manual, they would usually ask "do you
know what you're doing?" or "am I paying you to read this?" I reserve
reading the manual for after I'm finished, to see what I may have
missed, or when I get into trouble. Besides, if the product were any
good, it wouldn't need a manual.


I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really
fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel
hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass
hammer is nice.

Wazza for da plastic :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #16  
Old December 17th 17, 06:29 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 4,018
Default learn by destroying

On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:46:11 +0700, John B.
wrote:

I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really
fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel
hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass
hammer is nice.


Wazza for da plastic :-)


I mostly use a plastic face hammer mostly for banging on painted
surfaces. In the bad old days of early IBM PC clones (1980's), the
sheet metal cases were badly made and barely fit together. A plastic
hammer was quite handy for assembling or disassembling the case with a
minimum of damage to the paint. Of course, I never used it if there
was a hard disk drive installed, which could not tolerated the
pounding. I've also used it for banging on stuck air and water
valves, rusted components, tubular display tents, and cracking the
case on solvent welded or CA glued power supplies.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #17  
Old December 17th 17, 06:54 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
SMS
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,477
Default learn by destroying

On 12/17/2017 9:29 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:46:11 +0700, John B.
wrote:

I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really
fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel
hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass
hammer is nice.


Wazza for da plastic :-)


I mostly use a plastic face hammer mostly for banging on painted
surfaces. In the bad old days of early IBM PC clones (1980's), the
sheet metal cases were badly made and barely fit together. A plastic
hammer was quite handy for assembling or disassembling the case with a
minimum of damage to the paint. Of course, I never used it if there
was a hard disk drive installed, which could not tolerated the
pounding. I've also used it for banging on stuck air and water
valves, rusted components, tubular display tents, and cracking the
case on solvent welded or CA glued power supplies.


"If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway."


  #18  
Old December 17th 17, 07:17 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
David Scheidt
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,346
Default learn by destroying

John B. wrote:

:I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really
:fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel
:hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass
:hammer is nice.

:Wazza for da plastic :-)

Plastic faced hammers are useful for stricking all sorts of finished
parts. They dont' scratch, and they're less likely to dent a piece if
you hit it with the edge ofthe hammer. I've used them on paint lids,
copper pipe fittings, metal electrical boxes, and a ratchet. That's
just the last couple of days. Lots of uses on cars, too.

--
sig 78
  #19  
Old December 18th 17, 02:08 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default learn by destroying

On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 09:29:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Sun, 17 Dec 2017 11:46:11 +0700, John B.
wrote:

I've never really found a place where a plastic faced hammer really
fit. If you are just trying to get the damned thing apart a 2 lb steel
hammer works nicely. If you don't want to make sparks then the brass
hammer is nice.


Wazza for da plastic :-)


I mostly use a plastic face hammer mostly for banging on painted
surfaces. In the bad old days of early IBM PC clones (1980's), the
sheet metal cases were badly made and barely fit together. A plastic
hammer was quite handy for assembling or disassembling the case with a
minimum of damage to the paint. Of course, I never used it if there
was a hard disk drive installed, which could not tolerated the
pounding. I've also used it for banging on stuck air and water
valves, rusted components, tubular display tents, and cracking the
case on solvent welded or CA glued power supplies.


You are right. As I almost never bang on painted surfaces, I had
forgotten that.

Re stuck stuff, I use a hard face hammer and do my best to control the
force of the blow. The theory being that a bit of a shock will tend to
loosen things better then a softer blow.
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #20  
Old December 19th 17, 12:43 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 6,374
Default learn by destroying

What is the difference tween a mallet n a hammer

https://www.google.com/search?q=hard...=360&bih =560

round mallets are AAA

Keep an eye out for hard maple skids

Skin with ax

I've grown found of an 11 pound short handle engineers hammer ..for tap taping...very effective...easy nuff place soft wood under

For years looked a dead hit plastic hammers n remain dubious even while vinyl zed

yawl ever throw up in Walmart looming over oil based products ?
 




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