Tire Rotation

I recently purchased two new tires to replace my old tires which have
developed a flat profile after approximately 4000 miles. I also have been
rotating the tires from front to rear every 500 miles to prolong the profile
(keeping it round) as the rear wears faster than the front. I've also been
making sure the tires have been properly inflated. There have been
articles about rotating a tire from front to rear may not be a good idea for
safety reasons. It seems to me if you don't rotate the tires what you'll
have is a very flat profile on the rear and not getting best mileage out of
the tires.
-tom

Tom Nakashima wrote:

I recently purchased two new tires to replace my old tires which have
developed a flat profile after approximately 4000 miles. I also have been
rotating the tires from front to rear every 500 miles to prolong the profile
(keeping it round) as the rear wears faster than the front. I've also been
making sure the tires have been properly inflated. There have been
articles about rotating a tire from front to rear may not be a good idea for
safety reasons.

Right, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation

It seems to me if you don't rotate the tires what you'll
have is a very flat profile on the rear

That's not a problem in practice.

and not getting best mileage out of the tires.

The mileage issue would only apply if you were to replace _pairs_ of
tires. My recommendation is to replace tires one at a time, putting the
new one on the front and moving the old front one to the rear.

With this approach, you'll get the maximum wear life out of your tires,
while having the safety benefit of always having the newer tire on the
front.

Sheldon "Front To Back, Not Back To Front" Brown
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gork! gork grok!
gork gork

here we are again.

if a heavy dude or going touring or on sand, water, or otherwise normal
road surfaces as opposed to road surfaces in NE or Cal
always billyard table smooth, then the rear does more gkro than the
front in fact to stableize braking the asstoot rider balances braking
by applying rear first then front, modulating to keep the frame
directly and sinetines indirectly connected tire contact surface(with
countersteer krog applied also off course)
i digress.

so in these cases, unusual perhaps but often unavoidable - a new tire
goes on the rear and the rotable goes to the front.

however, the rolling surface direction should be maintained
or should it?? good question. assume the tire takes a set and putting
it on backwards works the fibers and loosens the weave-lossing
efficiency as designed

but i did this accidently(actually i was being unobservant or stupid)
and found the old new front put on backwards wears possibbble better
than the "right" way, assuming the extra looseness working in your
favor for the new location? or does this provide more grip with greater
flexibility. off to the larch forest.

where the rider can squeeze out mileage and the top part of the design
envelope before wear sets in is rotating a tire around the same rim.
eliminates blind spots first off.

watch out for that car larry.

Tom Nakashima wrote:
It seems to me if you don't rotate the tires what you'll
have is a very flat profile on the rear and not getting best mileage out of
the tires.
-tom
My front tires tend to last a long time... I usually change them after
3 have worn out on the back... and even then the rubber isn't
completely gone and the profile is very round. I don't usually replace
the rear until the cords show, and by then it is quite flat on the top.

Another thing you can do is put cheaper, more durable, slightly larger,
tires on the back, and put nice light ones on the front. I like a
bigger one on the back because it carries more weight. Even then, I
very rarely get a flat on the front... always the back one.

-Ron

Tom Nakashima wrote:
It seems to me if you don't rotate the tires what you'll
have is a very flat profile on the rear and not getting best mileage out of
the tires.

My front tires tend to last a long time... I usually change them after
3 have worn out on the back... and even then the rubber isn't
completely gone and the profile is very round. I don't usually replace
the rear until the cords show, and by then it is quite flat on the top.

Another thing you can do is put cheaper, more durable, slightly larger,
tires on the back, and put nice light ones on the front. I like a
bigger one on the back because it carries more weight. Even then, I
very rarely get a flat on the front... always the back one.

-Ron

is the front rear krog bias dialog a product of one side riding custom
to rider size frames
and me and several others riding off the rack frames??

On 10 Aug 2005 12:54:00 -0700, wrote:

is the front rear krog bias dialog a product of one side riding custom
to rider size frames
and me and several others riding off the rack frames??

No.

JT


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"Sheldon Brown" wrote in message
...
Tom Nakashima wrote:

I recently purchased two new tires to replace my old tires which have
developed a flat profile after approximately 4000 miles. I also have
been rotating the tires from front to rear every 500 miles to prolong the
profile (keeping it round) as the rear wears faster than the front. I've
also been making sure the tires have been properly inflated. There have
been articles about rotating a tire from front to rear may not be a good
idea for safety reasons.

Right, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation

It seems to me if you don't rotate the tires what you'll have is a very
flat profile on the rear

That's not a problem in practice.

and not getting best mileage out of the tires.

The mileage issue would only apply if you were to replace _pairs_ of
tires. My recommendation is to replace tires one at a time, putting the
new one on the front and moving the old front one to the rear.

With this approach, you'll get the maximum wear life out of your tires,
while having the safety benefit of always having the newer tire on the
front.

Sheldon "Front To Back, Not Back To Front" Brown

Question: even if a flat profile on the rear tire isn't a safety issue, at
what point does it become a performance issue, if at all, in terms of
cornering ability, rolling resistance, etc.?

Any article links on this?

--
Kovie
zen

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 21:55:56 GMT, "Kovie"
wrote:

"Sheldon Brown" wrote in message
...
Tom Nakashima wrote:

I recently purchased two new tires to replace my old tires which have
developed a flat profile after approximately 4000 miles. I also have
been rotating the tires from front to rear every 500 miles to prolong the
profile (keeping it round) as the rear wears faster than the front. I've
also been making sure the tires have been properly inflated. There have
been articles about rotating a tire from front to rear may not be a good
idea for safety reasons.

Right, see: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation

It seems to me if you don't rotate the tires what you'll have is a very
flat profile on the rear

That's not a problem in practice.

and not getting best mileage out of the tires.

The mileage issue would only apply if you were to replace _pairs_ of
tires. My recommendation is to replace tires one at a time, putting the
new one on the front and moving the old front one to the rear.

With this approach, you'll get the maximum wear life out of your tires,
while having the safety benefit of always having the newer tire on the
front.

Sheldon "Front To Back, Not Back To Front" Brown

Question: even if a flat profile on the rear tire isn't a safety issue, at
what point does it become a performance issue, if at all, in terms of
cornering ability, rolling resistance, etc.?

Any article links on this?

Dear Kovie,

Some pros believe that the tubulars have a rounder profile
than clinchers and that they can feel this difference as
they lean over in a corner and then lean back up.

In terms of rolling resistance, the more material removed
from the original tire, the less there is to squash, just as
an ultralight thin inner tube should have less rolling
resistance than a thick thorn-resistant tube.

Weigh the new tire, weigh it again when it's worn, and we'd
have a better idea of what's involved.

It's likely that this is a princess-and-the-pea matter, in
which people are going to "feel" an advantage or problem
according to their pre-conceptions. One test would be if a
rider could tell the difference between normal, thick, and
thin inner tubes installed by someone else.

Carl Fogel

flat is where? not where it counts at the bottom unless your roads a
very glassy and ura... NOW IS THIS TECH OR WHAT??!!
basically ura wearing off a rubber coating on the structure that's
round.
highly fractional. and oxidized.
gee, there's tooo many variables here i quit