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#21
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
Per Chalo:
I don't think the bike in question will require both Rohloff and Schlumpf, though, unless it's as some kind of artistic exercise. Roads only get so steep, and bikes only go so slow before they fall over. I have the same reaction. Might be a reflection of my aerobic capacity, though. i.e. My highest sustainable speed is about 18 mph. 20 is a sprint for me. With a front ring that has me spun out at 25 (tailwind, downhill, whatever) I've got such a ludicrously low gear in first that going over backwards on a hill becomes a problem before not a low enough gear becomes one. -- PeteCresswell |
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#22
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
In article ,
"(PeteCresswell)" wrote: Per Andre Jute: Which immediately raises the sinister question: Why went wrong with the first one at only 5000 miles? I'm weeks into a planning a Rohloff bike; the entire project is built around Rohloff gears and balloon tyres. Don't tell me now I've made a mistake... Nothing. It's still going strong. I just have two Rohloff-equipped bikes. I tell people who ask about the hub: "It's heavy, it's noisy, it's less efficient, it costs an arm and a leg... and I just bought another one." Here's a review I wrote a long time ago: I remember that review. Does the hub weigh much? -- Michael Press |
#23
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
Tosspot wrote:
Tom Sherman wrote: Mike Schwab wrote: [...] Going low for better climbing ability is fine, but how low of a top gear do you want? I mean at their minimum gearing, using the top gear and 100 RPM, what is your top speed? The problem of not enough overall range can easily be fixed by combining a Schlumpf bottom bracket with the Rohloff Speedhub. I have ridden a trike equipped thusly, and am aware of a couple of additional examples. While that is a solution, and one I use for the 'Tech, it must be the most expensive way on Dogs own Earth of getting a better gear range. 2009 Super Record is a more expensive transmission, at least if you include the cranks in the calculation. But you have to settle for a lot less gear range! And it doesn't last nearly as long, and it will go out of fashion much sooner. And it seems to be made mostly of plastic-- classy. Sounds like a swell deal. Chalo |
#24
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
Thanks for taking the trouble to find and repost that, Pete. An
excellent read. -- Andre Jute On Nov 15, 12:51*pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote: Per Andre Jute: Which immediately raises the sinister question: Why went wrong with the first one at only 5000 miles? I'm weeks into a planning a Rohloff bike; the entire project is built around Rohloff gears and balloon tyres. Don't tell me now I've made a mistake... Nothing. *It's still going strong. * I just have two Rohloff-equipped bikes. I tell people who ask about the hub: "It's heavy, it's noisy, it's less efficient, it costs an arm and a leg... and I just bought another one." Here's a review I wrote a long time ago: ================================================== ====== Pros: - Wide shifts: Probably a substitute for proper technique, but I can clean inclines that I couldn't before. Hammer in to it in, say, gear 8, then jump down to 4, then to 1 as needed. Also, on long climbs I like to alternate in and out of the saddle which, for me, is a 3 or 4 gear shift on each change. With the der I used to do it a lot less frequently that I really like and in the spirit of "Gee, I sure hope I don't miss this shift and take the saddle horn up my butt (again...)". Now I just snap those wide shifts without even thinking about it. Any time, any place.- I'm always in the right gear, since shifting is essentially trivial; seems like shifts take less than a fiftieth of a second. - No more rear cog problems: *no taco'd cogs, no more vines/small branches/grass wrapped around the cog/der. - It *seems* pretty-much bombproof. Time will tell, but I was spending more time than I cared to adjusting my der and bending a cog wheel while riding was a PITA. - Greatly-reduced frequency of missed shifts. "Reduced" and not "Zero" because there is a 'gotcha' between 7 and 8 dumps you into gear 14 if you forget and shift under load. It pops back into the intended gear as soon as the load comes off, but it's nothing you want to make a habit of doing. - Ability to shift down when stopped. I think I make more than my share of unplanned stops and I used to have to lift up the rear wheel and rotate the cranks to get down to a starting gear. Also, my technique sucks and probably won't get any better and it's nice to be able approach an object and slow way, way down before negotiating it without worrying about getting stuck in too high a gear to get over it. - I don't have to keep mental track of which chain ring I'm on. Sounds trivial, but I don't have any brain cells to spare. - Maybe not so much of a strength, but it should be mentioned somewhere that 14 speeds are enough. My original 44-32-22 der setup took me from 18.5 to 104. With the Rohloff on a 44 I get 19.9 to 104.9 in nice even, uniform 13.8% increments. That's only one less gear and, since I never used 104 it's a wash for me. With the 38 that I've since gone over to it's 17.2 - 90.6. * I don't get spun out in 90.6 until about 25 mph - and there's no way I can hold that speed for very long anyhow. I left the old 32 in the middle position just because it weighs next to nothing and, on a big bump sometimes the chain drops (you're supposed to have a front-der-like dingus up there to keep it from doing that ....but I never go around to getting one) *the 32 catches the chain. * *Also allows shifting down to a usually-ludicrous 14.something if things get really bad.... Cons: - It costs an arm and a leg. If my wife ever finds out I spent close to a grand on a rear wheel, she'll start to doubt my sanity. - This hub weighs a *lot*. It added 1.9 pounds to my already-heavy bike - same rim/tube/tire/spoke gauge. Anybody who says it only adds a pound must be using a really, *really* heavy cog/hub/der/shifter setup. I was using SRAM 9.0 with twist shifters. - The installation instructions could use a re-write. I'm no rocket scientist, and after studying them long enough I pulled it off - but it could have been a *lot* easier. - It's heavy. *Are you ready for an 8-pound rear wheel? - The torque arm mounting that came with it was decidedly un-German (downright kludgey, I'd say...). Hose clamps! Also sometime during the first hundred miles the little clevis pin that held it all together disappeared. Wasn't a catastrophic failure because the normal riding pressure pushes everything together.... I probably installed the c-ring keeper wrong or something - but it seems like a weak point. Replaced it with a marine shackle set in LocTite. I have since discovered that there is a more elegant torque arm setup that Rohloff calls the "SpeedBone". * Uses the disk brake mount and does not interfere with using a disk brake. - It's heavy. - It's noisy, especially in gears 1-7. Supposedly this mitigates with age, but it is still an issue with me at 1,000 miles. - It's definitely less efficient in gears 1-8. There's a web site somewhere (in German) that supposedly graphs a Rohloff against one of the Shimanos and claims no loss in most gears and 1-2% in the lower gears. I would disagree with that web site's figures. - Did I mention that it's heavy? ------------------------------------------------ Bottom Line: * * This is definitely not for everybody and the torque arm thing bugged me until I got the more elegant replacement. Having said that, I find that me and the Rohloff are a good match. I've quickly gotten so used to getting any gear I want any time I want and never having to stop and pull brush/branches out of my rear der that I can't imagine going back. It also appeals to the exhibitionist in me... You, on the other hand, might hate the thing. Oh yeah, I almost forgot: *it's heavy. ================================================== ====== -- PeteCresswell |
#25
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
On Nov 15, 10:36*pm, Chalo wrote:
Tosspot wrote: Tom Sherman wrote: Mike Schwab wrote: [...] Going low for better climbing ability is fine, but how low of a top gear do you want? I mean at their minimum gearing, using the top gear and 100 RPM, what is your top speed? The problem of not enough overall range can easily be fixed by combining a Schlumpf bottom bracket with the Rohloff Speedhub. I have ridden a trike equipped thusly, and am aware of a couple of additional examples. While that is a solution, and one I use for the 'Tech, it must be the most expensive way on Dogs own Earth of getting a better gear range. 2009 Super Record is a more expensive transmission, at least if you include the cranks in the calculation. *But you have to settle for a lot less gear range! *And it doesn't last nearly as long, and it will go out of fashion much sooner. *And it seems to be made mostly of plastic-- classy. Sounds like a swell deal. Chalo All the same, the Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 does seem overengineered. I'm not complaining: I became interested in it precisely because I want a hub to see me out, but still. I'm not so sure about the relative prices. I probably paid about the retail equivalent of a Rohloff hub for my Cyber Nexus automatic groupset (which also included an electronic active suspension fork and lighting and good rollerbrakes). At the time I thought that was a good deal. Andre Jute "The value of a thing will be remembered long after the price is forgotten" -- Henry Royce, mechanic |
#26
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
Per Andre Jute:
All the same, the Rohloff Speedhub 500/14 does seem overengineered. I'm not complaining: I became interested in it precisely because I want a hub to see me out, but still. My sense is that my two Rohloff hubs have a *lot* more miles left in them that I do. -- PeteCresswell |
#27
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Loading the Rohloff Hub
On Nov 14, 9:08*pm, "(PeteCresswell)" wrote:
Per Andre Jute: How many miles on your Rohloff, Pete? -- AJ Tough call bc I've got two and swap wheels depending on the riding. I'm gonna SWAG it and say 5,000 miles on the old one and 2,000 on the new one. -- PeteCresswell If you had logged your mile on http://www.bikejournal.com , on your bike entry you can switch parts when you switch them on the bike, so you have accurate mileage for the various parts. |
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