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#1
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Wheel trueing
Hi,
Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me. Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as you`d have to remove the tyre, tube and tape. I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ? TIA. |
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#2
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Wheel trueing
joe Wrote: Hi, Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me. Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as you`d have to remove the tyre, tube and tape. I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ? TIA. With "correct length" spokes, as you bring up the tension the nipple slot is at least partially "filled" with the end of the spoke. When you begin the build it is easy to use a screw driver or nipple driver, but at the final tensioning rounds you have two things working against that method: torque required increases and nipple slot has the end of the spoke in it. -- daveornee |
#3
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Wheel trueing
Joe wrote:
Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? You'd never get enough torque using a screwdriver. When building a new wheel, the screwdriver method expedites initial nipple engagement. But then you have to switch to a spoke wrench to tension the wheel. Art Harris |
#4
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Wheel trueing
On 2008-04-23, joe wrote:
Hi, Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me. Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as you`d have to remove the tyre, tube and tape. I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ? TIA. Sometimes the spokes come up a bit far and prevent you from getting a screwdriver in the slot. I think you also get a better purchase with a spoke wrench which is necessary if the wheel is a bit old and seized-up. And you'd have to take the tyre off like you say. But apart from that use the slots if you like. |
#5
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Wheel trueing
On Apr 23, 10:50 am, Art Harris wrote:
Joe wrote: Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? You'd never get enough torque using a screwdriver. You can get plenty if the nips are lubed. I just had to resort to this route on a wheel with a chewed nipple. It requires a bit of heroic muscle and I wouldn't bring an entire wheel up to tension with a driver--but it's doable. I probably would have run down to the LBS for a handful of nipples had they been open, though. |
#6
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Wheel trueing
On Apr 23, 12:42 pm, still just me wrote:
On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 09:20:50 -0700 (PDT), landotter wrote: You can get plenty if the nips are lubed. I just had to resort to this route on a wheel with a chewed nipple. It requires a bit of heroic muscle and I wouldn't bring an entire wheel up to tension with a driver--but it's doable. I probably would have run down to the LBS for a handful of nipples had they been open, though. I usually run to the local brothel when I need a handful of nipples. We should both ride next time--it's faster. |
#7
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Wheel trueing
"joe" wrote in message ... Hi, Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me. Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as you`d have to remove the tyre, tube and tape. I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ? TIA. It certainly was on a set of wheels I rebuilt a few years ago. The nipples had hexagon heads which mean that one could work from the outside of the wheel using a small socket and wrench. By far the easiest wheel set I have built. |
#8
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Wheel trueing
daveornee wrote:
With "correct length" spokes, as you bring up the tension the nipple slot is at least partially "filled" with the end of the spoke. When you begin the build it is easy to use a screw driver or nipple driver, but at the final tensioning rounds you have two things working against that method: torque required increases and nipple slot has the end of the spoke in it. I have a screwdriver that I cut a notch into for that very purpose. It allows me to go further with the screwdriver before having to switch to the spoke wrench. -- Work and recreation are not often effected at the same time. One using a bicycle in business makes an exception to the rule. - Dr. Edgar H. Earl, Rochester. (~1892) |
#9
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Wheel trueing
On Apr 23, 11:19 am, "joe" wrote:
Hi, Perhaps I`m missing something blindingly obvious here, please enlighten me. Is there any reason why you can`t true a wheel using the screw end of the nipple, rather than going from the hub side with a spoke tool ? Clearly it`s not always practical if only a quick adjustment is required, as you`d have to remove the tyre, tube and tape. I can`t see why this wouldn`t be easier ? TIA. It is fairly easy. Step 1: Remove tire. Step 2: Remove tube. Step 3: Note that spokes are protruding past the tops of the nipples. Step 4: Grind a notch in a screw driver to fit it around the spoke end. Step 5: Grind another screwdriver because you went to wide on the first one. Step 6: Try applying heroic amount of torque to screw driver, slip, and bash knuckles into rim. Step 7: Apply bandages, have a look to see just how much farther out of true you just knocked your wheel. Step 8: Get a better grip on the driver, and turn a nipple a quarter turn. Step 9: Strip the top of the nipple, because slotted brass doesn't like heroic amounts of torque. Step 10: Get some more bandages, because you bashed your knuckles into the rim again. While you're out, buy a damn spoke wrench. |
#10
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Wheel trueing
You can. The spoke end might get in the way, and of course you would
have to remove the tire, tube and rim strip before you could do anything. When I was working for a bike shop (and was their chief wheelbuilder) that's how I did it We had a special "truing screwdriver" that had a notch in the center of the blade to fit over the spoke head. And of course, there was no rimstrip, tube or tire on the rim yet. - - Compliments of: "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman" If you want to E-mail me use: ChrisZCorner "at" webtv "dot" net My website: http://geocities.com/czcorner |
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