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Length of Head Tube vs Strength
I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate a
neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much stress on the head tube? I've experimented with a cheap adjustable stem on my old road bike and notice that everything seems pretty unwieldy up at the front end. I guess I will need to get a bike with a frame geometry that can handle this. Does the length of the head tube make a large difference in its strength, i.e., its ability to handle the added stress? What other factors should I look for in a frame (hybrid, mountain, etc.)? Right now I'm staring pretty hard at the Trek 7700fx. - Magnusfarce |
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#2
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Magnusfarce wrote:
I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate a neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much stress on the head tube? If you like your bike in other respects, I recommend fitting it with BMX bars of appropriate height for your desired riding position. You'll need to use a BMX-type stem because BMX bars have a different diameter at the clamped portion than MTB or drop bars. I wouldn't worry about the head tube. If you use a quill stem, make sure the quill is inserted well past the end of the steerer threads. Remember, even if taller bars have more leverage, you won't be putting nearly as much weight on them as you would on low bars. Chalo Colina |
#3
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I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate
a neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much stress on the head tube? The issue isn't with the head tube, but rather the fork's steer tube. As you go to a taller stem (or bar), you increase the leverage on the fork column. Standard threaded fork columns are already a bit weak in their threaded portion, so make sure you have the stem inserted quite a ways into the tube, a bit further down than the indicated min height mark if possible. You'll notice that it's quite a bit flexier as you go higher, but that's usually not a major issue, since you're not putting as much weight on the bar as you sit more upright. Also, make certain that your saddle is level. Any downward tilt at the front end will greatly aggravate neck & shoulder pain, since you're essentially pushing back (with your arms) the entire time you're riding, in order to maintain position on the saddle. --Mike Jacoubowsky Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReaction.com Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA "Magnusfarce" wrote in message ... I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate a neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much stress on the head tube? I've experimented with a cheap adjustable stem on my old road bike and notice that everything seems pretty unwieldy up at the front end. I guess I will need to get a bike with a frame geometry that can handle this. Does the length of the head tube make a large difference in its strength, i.e., its ability to handle the added stress? What other factors should I look for in a frame (hybrid, mountain, etc.)? Right now I'm staring pretty hard at the Trek 7700fx. - Magnusfarce |
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