Bell Dashboard 100, re-enter odo numbers?

On Sun, 30 Jul 2017 09:30:51 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-07-29 18:20, John B. wrote:
On Sat, 29 Jul 2017 14:48:23 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard 100
cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle computer" In
the manual it says one can re-enter the odometer reading
but nowhere it says how. When I contacted Bell years ago
they said "no, you can't". Does anyone know a secret trick
Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to see
when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing end-of-life.
Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out in the boonies.
Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which is
only a switch which is creating a pulsed current/voltage read
by the head unit electronics. Then set the tyre size to
maximum and determine the maximum response frequency of the
head unit circuitry and simulate pulses at that frequency. If
the frequency is reasonably high it should not take too long
to reset the mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if
it will take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than commercial
one. However, I've got enough electronics projects as it is.
When I am fully retired, maybe. But then I want to ride instead
of build replacements for messed-up commercial designs. On the
bikes I already had to do that for lighting but there it was a
necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have since
over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at night, works
off the central battery and most of all never forgets its
odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until it
reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the same
at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that artificial
wheel run a long time in order to get the usual 4000+ miles back
in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so on. Most likely that
takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder idea
as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does tend to
rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it electronically with a
simple circuit that would send relatively high frequency pulses to
the appropriate terminals on the head unit to simulate the action of
the switch. From your decription of your background surely this is a
trivial exercise and I am sure you will have the required circuit
components lying around on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how
long it would take at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre
circumference to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at
1Hz, 18 hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response would be
a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the whole
enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function generator :-)

I think in that case the better alternative would be to buy a better
designed meter like the one I have on the MTB (Cateye Padrone) that does
allow odometer re-entry.

I only started this thread to see if someone knows a trick. There is a
discrepancy between the Bell manual and what Bell's customer service
says. The manual explicitly says you should write down the odometer
value before a battery change and then re-enter it after installing a
new battery. Their customer service said that it cannot be done. So one
of them is wrong.

Early on in this thread you mentioned that you "kept a log". If so why
can't you simply add the previous mileage to the present (post battery
change) reading of your bike meter to get total mileage?


That's what I am doing but it would be nice if this could simply be
entered. Which would be just as easy as re-entering the four numbers for
the wheel diameter but it seems their software guys forgot.


What I did was develop a log where I enter one ride's data, distance,
average speed and time. The spreadsheet then calculates and records
several other values from this data. Each log is for one year. I don't
do it but a column for "Meter Battery Change" could easily be added
which could even calculate the estimated future date when the battery
would next require changing, or whatever data you wanted.

I have an annual log application that I wrote and that is what I do.
Simply enter the last year's total at the top of the new log and the
computer shows the current "lifetime total".


In new-speak that's called "an app". I have that for our cars, for my
beer brewing, and all the biz book-keeping. I'll probably set one up for
the road bike as well. I am using the old MS-Works database for this.

Well, I suppose so. At least for those who use "New Speak" because
they have problems pronouncing long words :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 30 Jul 2017 09:59:59 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-07-30 09:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/29/2017 2:09 PM, Joerg wrote:
I'd never use Reed or anything mechanical in those, especially in an
environment that is prone to vibration. Like ... a mountain bike.

:-) Joerg would never use what every current cyclometer company (and
therefore almost every mountain biker) uses without problems, because
his situation is just so gnarly!

Classic Joerg!


And, not surprisingly, my clients enjoy electronic designs of cast-iron
reliability and robustness.

Ah but your clients come to you because they want to solve a specific
problem while you take an object that is made to suit the general
public's needs and complain because it doesn't fit what you perceive
as your specific needs.

Your logic is faulty.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Sun, 30 Jul 2017 12:42:16 -0700 (PDT), jbeattie
wrote:

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 11:33:52 AM UTC-7, Duane wrote:
wrote:
Op zondag 30 juli 2017 03:01:10 UTC+2 schreef jbeattie:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 10:44:08 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 11:34 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 09:16, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 10:19 AM, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling
speedometer. Or what they call "cycle computer" In the
manual it
says one can re-enter the odometer reading but nowhere
it says how.
When I contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you
can't". Does
anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the
rear tire or other stuff is nearing end-of-life.
Mainly to avoid a
*KAPOW* surprise way out in the boonies. Many tires
don't have
TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not
just design a
circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which is
only a switch
which is creating a pulsed current/voltage read by the
head unit
electronics. Then set the tyre size to maximum and
determine the
maximum response frequency of the head unit circuitry
and simulate
pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it
should not take too long to reset the mileage. With a tyre
circumference of 9999mm, if it will take that, then you
are looking
at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one.
[snip]

No you miss my point. I am not suggesting you
design/build a new unit
simply knock up a simple circuit to mimic the magnet
driven switch
opening and closing and connect it to the appropriate
terminals on the
head unit. If the unit can respond to switching rates up
to say 1kHz
then the job should be reasonably quick and could be left
to run for a
known period of time to get the mileage back to where you
want it. At
10m per switch cycle you would advance the reading
36kms/hr at 1hz so
100Hz which should be possible would give you 3600kms/hr
1KHz would
look to be ideal as it would give you 36,000kms/hr.

A bench grinder would also work with a magnet fixed to it
and the
sensor held next to it. That might take a good bit longer
depending on
the speed of the grinder.


Ah, yes, clocking it all back in by pretending a 4120mi
ride. Good idea. I could take an old printer motor, mout a
wooden disc, glue a little magent on that and strap the
whole thing into the spokes.

It would probably take days though since the speedometer
will peg somewhere. And eat a lot of the new battery's juice
which would kind of defeat the purpose.


There are sensors which can read 1720~1760rpm (grinder
speeds) but a
copper-steel reed switch is not one of them.


Reed switches would be way too expensive for such products.
It's usually just a coil. Almost has to be because it must
generate a voltage that triggers the turned-off meter
circuitry to turn on upon wheel rotation.


Except for rare exceptions (ex: defunct Avocet), almost all
bicycle computers use that type of switch to iterate wheel
or crank rpm.

I could sell him my old Avocet, and he could kludge it.

It seems to me like he could get a sharpie and write on the screen "+
[number of miles]." Problem solved. Or maybe put the number in his
wallet on the back of a growler fill coupon -- or tattoo it to his
forehead. Or, plan B, just look at his tires to see if they are worn --
or measure his chain. I suppose this would impede the completion of his
definitive work on tire and chain wear rates by brand and model, but
only for one wear cycle. A new chain or tire would have a new odometer
reading. I don't think tires wear any faster if a bike has more or less
cumulative miles, but I could be wrong about that. I had some high mile
bikes that would just blow through tires.

-- Jay Beattie.

Simple cycling computers are so cheap he could buy a new one every time
he replaces a tire or a chain......


Or just buy a slightly less cheap one that lets you set the odometer.

Gasp! More than $13.14 USD? https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Dashboar.../dp/B01IGU9XIK The horror! Cyclometers should not cost more than $8 and should be bomb-proof and fully and easily re-programmable to show any mileage I want! In fact, I want to be able to manipulate trip mileage so I can claim every ride is 200 miles or more. "Hey man, I'm a little tired; I just rode 200 miles. Here, look at my trip mileage." I also want one with adjustable elevation gain. "200 miles and 52,000 feet of climbing! I'm totally tired."


-- Jay Beattie.


If you want to use an older model with a cable you can accomplish the
distance part with ease. Just add magnets to the wheel and your speed
and distance will increase dramatically.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 7/30/2017 9:22 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 30 Jul 2017 09:59:59 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-07-30 09:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/29/2017 2:09 PM, Joerg wrote:
I'd never use Reed or anything mechanical in those, especially in an
environment that is prone to vibration. Like ... a mountain bike.

:-) Joerg would never use what every current cyclometer company (and
therefore almost every mountain biker) uses without problems, because
his situation is just so gnarly!

Classic Joerg!


And, not surprisingly, my clients enjoy electronic designs of cast-iron
reliability and robustness.

Ah but your clients come to you because they want to solve a specific
problem while you take an object that is made to suit the general
public's needs and complain because it doesn't fit what you perceive
as your specific needs.

Your logic is faulty.

And if we restrict the issue to switches, there are situations where
reed switches are appropriate, and situations where they are not. High
speed devices may require Hall effect switches or something similar.
Bike wheels rotate much more slowly than (say) auto engine flywheels.
Reed switches are perfect there.

And no, Joerg, bike vibrations have no bad effect on them.

There is such a thing as overdesign.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-30 02:21, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In the manual it says one can re-enter the
odometer reading but nowhere it says how. When I
contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you can't".
Does anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out
in the boonies. Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which
is only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read by the head unit electronics. Then
set the tyre size to maximum and determine the maximum
response frequency of the head unit circuitry and
simulate pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it should not take too long to reset the
mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if it will
take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But then
I want to ride instead of build replacements for messed-up
commercial designs. On the bikes I already had to do that
for lighting but there it was a necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all never
forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until
it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the
same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial wheel run a long time in order to get the usual
4000+ miles back in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so
on. Most likely that takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder
idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does
tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a simple circuit that would send relatively
high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals on the head
unit to simulate the action of the switch. From your decription
of your background surely this is a trivial exercise and I am
sure you will have the required circuit components lying around
on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how long it would take
at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre circumference
to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18
hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response
would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the
whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function
generator :-)
[snip]

Why so dramatic do you just like cludging things with duct tape. Your
head unit has two contacts on the back and my guess is that if you
apply a rapid series of shorts across those two contacts the unit
will display speed. How you might choose to apply those shorts is up
to you: electronically, mechanically eg make a simple rotary switch
driven by an electric drill or even a DPDT relay wired to self
oscillate. The possibilities are almost endless, relatively simple
and do not involve cable hacks and duct tape cludges


I could probably do that but I am sure they have a lowpass filter in
there to mitigate noise and Reed bounce. Or I could pipe out the power
supply to some metal spots such as a couple of the mounting screws and
supply 1.5V while changing the battery. That way it won't forget the
mileage.

OK I give in. I am largely just a lurker in this group and only chip in
when things look like they are, as one might say, "tech". If you are the
"elecy techy" you claim to be then you could have solved this problem
without even troubling this news group. The reply above shows that you
know how to solve this problem so why waste bandwith?

Graham.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus



There's often enough capacitance on the board to keep the CMOS circuitry
running while you change the battery. Just change it quickly.

On Sun, 30 Jul 2017 22:23:39 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 7/30/2017 9:22 PM, John B. wrote:
On Sun, 30 Jul 2017 09:59:59 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-07-30 09:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/29/2017 2:09 PM, Joerg wrote:
I'd never use Reed or anything mechanical in those, especially in an
environment that is prone to vibration. Like ... a mountain bike.

:-) Joerg would never use what every current cyclometer company (and
therefore almost every mountain biker) uses without problems, because
his situation is just so gnarly!

Classic Joerg!


And, not surprisingly, my clients enjoy electronic designs of cast-iron
reliability and robustness.

Ah but your clients come to you because they want to solve a specific
problem while you take an object that is made to suit the general
public's needs and complain because it doesn't fit what you perceive
as your specific needs.

Your logic is faulty.

And if we restrict the issue to switches, there are situations where
reed switches are appropriate, and situations where they are not. High
speed devices may require Hall effect switches or something similar.
Bike wheels rotate much more slowly than (say) auto engine flywheels.
Reed switches are perfect there.

And no, Joerg, bike vibrations have no bad effect on them.

There is such a thing as overdesign.

Or perhaps "Joerg design" and the imperfect ones :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

On 29/07/2017 9:01 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 10:44:08 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 11:34 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 09:16, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 10:19 AM, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling
speedometer. Or what they call "cycle computer" In the
manual it
says one can re-enter the odometer reading but nowhere
it says how.
When I contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you
can't". Does
anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the
rear tire or other stuff is nearing end-of-life.
Mainly to avoid a
*KAPOW* surprise way out in the boonies. Many tires
don't have
TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not
just design a
circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which is
only a switch
which is creating a pulsed current/voltage read by the
head unit
electronics. Then set the tyre size to maximum and
determine the
maximum response frequency of the head unit circuitry
and simulate
pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it
should not take too long to reset the mileage. With a tyre
circumference of 9999mm, if it will take that, then you
are looking
at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one.
[snip]

No you miss my point. I am not suggesting you
design/build a new unit
simply knock up a simple circuit to mimic the magnet
driven switch
opening and closing and connect it to the appropriate
terminals on the
head unit. If the unit can respond to switching rates up
to say 1kHz
then the job should be reasonably quick and could be left
to run for a
known period of time to get the mileage back to where you
want it. At
10m per switch cycle you would advance the reading
36kms/hr at 1hz so
100Hz which should be possible would give you 3600kms/hr
1KHz would
look to be ideal as it would give you 36,000kms/hr.

A bench grinder would also work with a magnet fixed to it
and the
sensor held next to it. That might take a good bit longer
depending on
the speed of the grinder.


Ah, yes, clocking it all back in by pretending a 4120mi
ride. Good idea. I could take an old printer motor, mout a
wooden disc, glue a little magent on that and strap the
whole thing into the spokes.

It would probably take days though since the speedometer
will peg somewhere. And eat a lot of the new battery's juice
which would kind of defeat the purpose.


There are sensors which can read 1720~1760rpm (grinder
speeds) but a
copper-steel reed switch is not one of them.


Reed switches would be way too expensive for such products.
It's usually just a coil. Almost has to be because it must
generate a voltage that triggers the turned-off meter
circuitry to turn on upon wheel rotation.


Except for rare exceptions (ex: defunct Avocet), almost all
bicycle computers use that type of switch to iterate wheel
or crank rpm.

I could sell him my old Avocet, and he could kludge it.

It seems to me like he could get a sharpie and write on the screen "+ [number of miles]." Problem solved. Or maybe put the number in his wallet on the back of a growler fill coupon -- or tattoo it to his forehead. Or, plan B, just look at his tires to see if they are worn -- or measure his chain. I suppose this would impede the completion of his definitive work on tire and chain wear rates by brand and model, but only for one wear cycle. A new chain or tire would have a new odometer reading. I don't think tires wear any faster if a bike has more or less cumulative miles, but I could be wrong about that. I had some high mile bikes that would just blow through tires.


I used to measure my chain and replace it when it was stretched. But
then I got this bike with a SRAM setup. I couldn't believe how long the
chain was lasting until my cassette was gone. Even then, the chain
wasn't stretched. The guys at the LBS said there was some side to side
play. Anyway, now I watch the kilometers.

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 9:27:54 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:

Mine quit displaying when the speed drops below about 2.5mph. It would
also happen with a coil but that could be refined by signal pattern
matching. Automatic start-up would still require a few mph unless you
just press a button but afterwards the electronics could "turn on the
super-sniffer".

Jeorg, it just occurred to me how you can reset the mileage - go to the total mileage and hold both buttons on and the a number will begin to blink. Then one button changes the number and the other the position. After you have the mileage reset you hold the buttons on again and the position you're in will stop blinking.

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 9:53:35 AM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/29/2017 2:09 PM, Joerg wrote:
I'd never use Reed or
anything mechanical in those, especially in an environment that is prone
to vibration. Like ... a mountain bike.

:-) Joerg would never use what every current cyclometer company (and
therefore almost every mountain biker) uses without problems, because
his situation is just so gnarly!

Classic Joerg!

Actually it's classic Chinese manual.

On 2017-07-30 14:27, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-30 02:21, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in
message ...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell
Dashboard 100 cycling speedometer. Or what they
call "cycle computer" In the manual it says one can
re-enter the odometer reading but nowhere it says
how. When I contacted Bell years ago they said "no,
you can't". Does anyone know a secret trick Bell
doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate
to see when the rear tire or other stuff is
nearing end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW*
surprise way out in the boonies. Many tires don't
have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not
just design a circuit to replicate the job of the
magnet which is only a switch which is creating a
pulsed current/voltage read by the head unit
electronics. Then set the tyre size to maximum and
determine the maximum response frequency of the head
unit circuitry and simulate pulses at that frequency.
If the frequency is reasonably high it should not
take too long to reset the mileage. With a tyre
circumference of 9999mm, if it will take that, then
you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But
then I want to ride instead of build replacements for
messed-up commercial designs. On the bikes I already
had to do that for lighting but there it was a
necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all
never forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter
until it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain
Reed switches like Andrew said that might not be so great
for the lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up
battery because there will be a limit in the speed and I
guess that's not the same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So
I'd have to let that artificial wheel run a long time in
order to get the usual 4000+ miles back in, and next time
8000+, then 12000+ and so on. Most likely that takes
weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the
grinder idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches
and that does tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was
to do it electronically with a simple circuit that would send
relatively high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals
on the head unit to simulate the action of the switch. From
your decription of your background surely this is a trivial
exercise and I am sure you will have the required circuit
components lying around on your bench. See my earlier posts
as to how long it would take at different frquency pulsing if
you set the tyre circumference to 9999mm. 4000 miles would
take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18 hours at 10Hz etc and my
guess is that the head unit circuit should at least cope with
that. Any higher frequecy response would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap
the whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a
function generator :-)
[snip]

Why so dramatic do you just like cludging things with duct tape.
Your head unit has two contacts on the back and my guess is that
if you apply a rapid series of shorts across those two contacts
the unit will display speed. How you might choose to apply those
shorts is up to you: electronically, mechanically eg make a
simple rotary switch driven by an electric drill or even a DPDT
relay wired to self oscillate. The possibilities are almost
endless, relatively simple and do not involve cable hacks and
duct tape cludges


I could probably do that but I am sure they have a lowpass filter
in there to mitigate noise and Reed bounce. Or I could pipe out the
power supply to some metal spots such as a couple of the mounting
screws and supply 1.5V while changing the battery. That way it
won't forget the mileage.

OK I give in. I am largely just a lurker in this group and only chip
in when things look like they are, as one might say, "tech". If you
are the "elecy techy" you claim to be then you could have solved this
problem without even troubling this news group. The reply above shows
that you know how to solve this problem so why waste bandwith?


sigh

Again, the reason for my question is this simple:

1. The manual says you can re-enter the mileage number (without tricks
such as clocking in the equivalent of thousands of miles which slurps
away a lot of juice from the newly installed battery).

2. The customer service says that it cannot be re-entered.

These statements clearly contradict each other. I simply wanted to know
which statement is correct and whether someone else had managed to
re-enter the odometer number, and most of all how.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/