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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
The splined removal tool I bought from Halfrauds tends to ride over and jam
in - is it likely to be faulty (tolerance limits) or am I doing it wrong? Thanks. |
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#2
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 22:30:20 +0000, Ian Field wrote:
The splined removal tool I bought from Halfrauds tends to ride over and jam in - is it likely to be faulty (tolerance limits) or am I doing it wrong? Thanks. Shimano has used several different spline designs for freewheels and cassettes. None is compatible with one another. Stephen Bauman |
#3
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
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#4
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 12:43:10 AM UTC-5, wrote:
https://www.google.com/#q=harris+cyc...+removal+tools hehehe...there's a batch. I forget uh I also forget when uh 20 years ago switched to the hub as freewheel axles bent and bent under load. I'd put a new one in, finally Wheels Mfg strong and rebendable axles, pussy around then slightly drop of a small curb and expletive deleted bent axle wobble. PITA PITA. Excellent low friction running from the freewheel but loadinf, forgetabbputit. Most times, the splines are frozen from TIME or bad assembly practice. White lithium grease mounting ? Oxy/Mapp gas ? take it to a mechanic at the LBS who has a torch for you. https://www.google.com/#q=shimano+fr...+tool&tbm=shop reassemble with aluminum anti seize. |
#5
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 12:55:23 AM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 12:43:10 AM UTC-5, wrote: https://www.google.com/#q=harris+cyc...+removal+tools hehehe...there's a batch. I forget uh I also forget when uh 20 years ago switched to the hub as freewheel axles bent and bent under load. I'd put a new one in, finally Wheels Mfg strong and rebendable axles, pussy around then slightly drop of a small curb and expletive deleted bent axle wobble. PITA PITA. Excellent low friction running from the freewheel but loadinf, forgetabbputit. Most times, the splines are frozen from TIME or bad assembly practice. White lithium grease mounting ? Oxy/Mapp gas ? take it to a mechanic at the LBS who has a torch for you. https://www.google.com/#q=shimano+fr...+tool&tbm=shop reassemble with aluminum anti seize. UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU$ still there.. https://www.google.com/#q=phil+wood+freewheel&tbm=shop wonder what PW uses for axles ? or if there's a ubermachining solution for excessive axle pressures |
#6
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
wrote in message ... On Sunday, January 12, 2014 12:55:23 AM UTC-5, wrote: On Sunday, January 12, 2014 12:43:10 AM UTC-5, wrote: https://www.google.com/#q=harris+cyc...+removal+tools hehehe...there's a batch. I forget uh I also forget when uh 20 years ago switched to the hub as freewheel axles bent and bent under load. I'd put a new one in, finally Wheels Mfg strong and rebendable axles, pussy around then slightly drop of a small curb and expletive deleted bent axle wobble. PITA PITA. Excellent low friction running from the freewheel but loadinf, forgetabbputit. Most times, the splines are frozen from TIME or bad assembly practice. White lithium grease mounting ? Oxy/Mapp gas ? take it to a mechanic at the LBS who has a torch for you. https://www.google.com/#q=shimano+fr...+tool&tbm=shop reassemble with aluminum anti seize. UUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU$ All your links so far just open a blank google search page. The freewheel assembly is very new and recently fitted, I used copper-slip anti-seize compound. The tool was bought from Halfrauds and is probably on the limit for tolerances - it worked fine for the first few times, then developed the habit of jamming in so I had to find a socket that fit through the hole to use as a drift. The problem came to light while the new freewheel was on order - I rummaged the junk box for a salvaged spare, several that slipped just as bad as the one I took off and one with a sticky ratchet that kept throwing the chain. There were a few noticably loose spokes - so it won't be long before I need a tool that works so I can put the new freewheel on a better wheel. |
#7
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
"Stephen Bauman" wrote in message ... On Sat, 11 Jan 2014 22:30:20 +0000, Ian Field wrote: The splined removal tool I bought from Halfrauds tends to ride over and jam in - is it likely to be faulty (tolerance limits) or am I doing it wrong? Thanks. Shimano has used several different spline designs for freewheels and cassettes. None is compatible with one another. The one in the Powerfix/Crivit sport toolset from the Lidl store chain clearly isn't compatible - I took it to Halfrauds and asked for one "not the same as that" - the one they supplied worked OK for a few times but soon started giving trouble. I've ordered a new tool from an independant cycle shop, and made it clear that its to fit the freewheel they sold me recently. At the time, I asked the shop keeper if I'd been doing it wrong - I clamp the tool in the vice, put the wheel on it and turn that, he said that's exactly the way they always do it. It crossed my mind that holding the wheel and turning the tool with a spanner would produce an off-centre torque and help the spline bite - but last time I looked, no spanner big enough. Before anyone asks - spanner is English for American wrench. |
#8
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
On Sunday, January 12, 2014 1:23:37 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote:
At the time, I asked the shop keeper if I'd been doing it wrong - I clamp the tool in the vice, put the wheel on it and turn that, he said that's exactly the way they always do it. It crossed my mind that holding the wheel and turning the tool with a spanner would produce an off-centre torque and help the spline bite - but last time I looked, no spanner big enough. Yes, that's what I do, but with one addition: I use the skewer or axle nut to keep the freewheel tool fully engaged. Here's what I've always done with freewheel removal tools: I remove the quick release skewer or axle nut, whichever is fitted. I insert the freewheel removal tool. I re-install the skewer or nut, so it holds the removal tool firmly in place - not too tight though; I want just a little (maybe 0.020") axial clearance. Like you, I clamp the flats of the freewheel removal tool into a large bench vise so the wheel is horizontal above the vise. Using two hands, I apply torque to the wheel in the proper direction, like turning a steering wheel on a bus. That's always broken the freewheel loose for me. But it won't go far, because of the skewer or axle nut. Then I loosen the skewer or axle nut a little more and repeat the process, to get the freewheel a bit further unscrewed. After that, the freewheel comes off easily by hand. The important points, I think, are using the skewer or nut to keep the tool engaged in the freewheel, and having a setup that applies lots of torque with no significant side force. - Frank Krygowski |
#9
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
? Of Shimano tools there were 2 or 3 ? but if your's is after '85 then pin the tool in before wrenching.
clean the freewheel mates, scrapemout. If the torque was less then the tool would work, or work better. Wether or not the tool itself is badly formed to spec that is true, true enough to pursue it with heat. Copper anti sieze may need heat. I doahn trust copper caws I cannot see it but then only a thin film is necessary or ? Copper is a hi temp antiseize formulated for hi temp auto sensor screw ins, not freewheels. Freewheels go in on a linseed oil based antiseize good for the Navy. IMO. The links may be pasted into your search box or take the English words out into Google search or ? How's it go ? place freewheel in vise, clamp tool down with quick release, heat then turn tool with 4' 1" water pipe ? crank those spokes in ! |
#10
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Spline on Shimano freewheel/sprockets.
On 1/11/2014 4:30 PM, Ian Field wrote:
The splined removal tool I bought from Halfrauds tends to ride over and jam in - is it likely to be faulty (tolerance limits) or am I doing it wrong? The current Shimano cassette remover is not the same spline pattern as their freewheel tool. Do you have the right tool? Less likely, on some cassette hubs the right side cone/seal/spacer can interfere with tool engagement. This presents usually when the tool is worn and rounded. We just touch the tool face to a grindwheel so the edge is crisp, not rounded. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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