BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 15:19:29 -0800 (PST), Sir Ridesalot
wrote:

Then the thief chops the frame and sells just the components.
Many thieves discard the frames anyway as they are easier to
track/identify than are the components on the frame.

Yep, that happens. I'm told that the full bicycle gets a better
price, but you're right that components are easier to sell. Yet
another great idea down the drain. I suppose that one can glue or
epoxy the components to the frame, making it difficult or messy to
remove individual components, but that has some obvious disadvantages.
Security hardware will prevent the thief from disassembly the bicycle
on the rack, but does little once the bicycle has been moved to where
he can work on it. One could also design an internal wheel locking
mechanism, that prevents the wheels from rotating, but that doesn't
stop the thief from removing the wheels or throwing the entire bicycle
into the back of a pickup truck. It's a difficult problem that I
don't believe will be solvable with a better lock.

Cheers

Bah Humbug (T'is the season).

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 15:54:11 -0800, sms
wrote:

On 12/5/2017 11:00 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

snip

Perhaps a different approach might work better. The problem faced by
the average criminal is to steal the bicycle without destroying it.
That's easy when the lock is an independently removable accessory.
However, suppose the lock were designed and built as an integral part
of the bicycle frame. Cutting the lock would destroy the value of the
bicycle making the theft much less profitable.

I recall talking to Steve from S&S Torque Couplers. He would sometimes
disassemble the frame then re-assemble it around a fixed object. Without
the proper tool, it's difficult to separate the frame.

http://www.sandsmachine.com
That's the obvious implementation. Break the frame and use the
coupler to lock it around something. Although it might be difficult
to disassemble without the proper tools, I suspect that a pair of pipe
wrenches could do it. Reading the web page, the coupler cannot be
retrofitted onto an aluminum frame and the process seems to be a
custom "machine to fit" exercise that seems to be suitable only for an
experienced frame builder.
"BTCs are sold only to professional bicycle framebuilders.
We're sorry but couplings are not sold to amateur framebuilders.
(...)
New steel single bike frames add about $300-$750 or more to
the regular price of a frame.... Retrofitting your steel
single bike frame costs from $400-$600 or more for steel
frames."
Too expensive and there goes the mass market.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 12/5/2017 9:17 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 15:54:11 -0800, sms
wrote:

I recall talking to Steve from S&S Torque Couplers. He would sometimes
disassemble the frame then re-assemble it around a fixed object. Without
the proper tool, it's difficult to separate the frame.

http://www.sandsmachine.com
That's the obvious implementation. Break the frame and use the
coupler to lock it around something. Although it might be difficult
to disassemble without the proper tools, I suspect that a pair of pipe
wrenches could do it. Reading the web page, the coupler cannot be
retrofitted onto an aluminum frame and the process seems to be a
custom "machine to fit" exercise that seems to be suitable only for an
experienced frame builder.
"BTCs are sold only to professional bicycle framebuilders.
We're sorry but couplings are not sold to amateur framebuilders.
(...)
New steel single bike frames add about $300-$750 or more to
the regular price of a frame.... Retrofitting your steel
single bike frame costs from $400-$600 or more for steel
frames."
Too expensive and there goes the mass market.

I think some people are imagining very extreme situations that rarely
apply.

It doesn't make sense to spend a fortune to buy a system that will
absolutely prevent theft of a $10,000 bike left alone and visible for a
week in a bad neighborhood. There have to be easier ways of preventing
that sort of theft - for example, take the bike inside. Or park a junker
bike instead.

Sure, pipe wrenches would probably work on S&S couplings. But if you're
leaving your good bike parked long enough for someone to go home to get
his pipe wrenches, you're leaving your bike alone far too long.


--
- Frank Krygowski

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

You might want to read a little about which
conglomerate own which tool companies:
http://toolguyd.com/tool-brands-corporate-affiliations/
Pick your conglomeratated tool vendor wisely.

So far, I own only a drill driver (R18PDBL),
a random orbit sander (R18ROS), and a table saw
(probably RTS10G) from Ryobi, but OK, this is
what it says (last).

I'm a little confused tho as to what to do with
this information?

Interesting that AEG is under the same TTI
umbrella as Ryobi. I always consider AEG higher
up than Ryobi. I'm unfamiliar with the
other names.

TTI Tool Brands

Power and Hand Tool Brands

* AEG
* Empire Level (owned by Milwaukee Tool,Â*as
of mid-2014)
* Hart
* Milwaukee Tool
* Ryobi
* Stiletto (owned by Milwaukee Tool, as of 2007)

Milwaukee Tool is headquartered in
Brookfield, Wisconsin.

TTI also develops and produces Ridgid power
tools, under a licensing agreement with
Emerson. This arrangement began back in
2003 (press release, PDF).

TTI owns the Ryobi power tools and
accessories division in the USA, North
America, the UK, Europe, Australia, and New
Zealand, but Ryobi is also an independent
company with separate product lines in some
other parts of the world.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 09:53:01 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 06:43:01 -0800, sms
wrote:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-4-1-2-in-Cordless-Cut-Off-Grinder-Tool-Only-2680-20/202196580
Any bicycle thief worth their salt owns a battery powered angle grinder.

Angle grinders work well but die grinders are smaller, cheaper,
somewhat quieter, easier to handle, and work equally well:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-3-5-Amp-1-4-in-Die-Grinder-GD0601/202517751

"Die Grinder versus Locks"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbYVmRNzGLc

I watched that and I have, and use, both a die grinder and an angle
grinder and while I didn't rush out and cut a lock my guess is that I
can still cut it faster with the angle grinder then the video shows.
Probably because I can get a better grip on the angle grinder and
apply more pressure to the grinding wheel. And, of course the
circumference of the 4" wheel is 30% larger then the 3 inch and the
die grinder is not as powerful as the usual angle grinder. You could
hear the motor slow down when he started to cut, which I've never
noticed with an angle grinder.

I might add that the video mentions a 1/16" grinding wheel and I
normally use a 1mm wheel that cuts faster with less pressure. (1 mm =
..0393, 1/16" = 0.0625 )
--
Cheers,

John B.

John B. wrote:

I watched that and I have, and use, both
a die grinder and an angle grinder and while
I didn't rush out and cut a lock my guess is
that I can still cut it faster with the angle
grinder then the video shows.
Probably because I can get a better grip on
the angle grinder and apply more pressure to
the grinding wheel. And, of course the
circumference of the 4" wheel is 30% larger
then the 3 inch and the die grinder is not as
powerful as the usual angle grinder.
You could hear the motor slow down when he
started to cut, which I've never noticed with
an angle grinder.

I might add that the video mentions a 1/16"
grinding wheel and I normally use a 1mm wheel
that cuts faster with less pressure. (1 mm =
.0393, 1/16" = 0.0625 )

Yes, it makes sense as well that the angle
grinder should be better at this, tho I never
tried to compare it myself. Perhaps I will
today

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 10:29:21 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 12:03:04 -0600, AMuzi wrote:

On 12/5/2017 11:53 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 06:43:01 -0800, sms
wrote:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M18-18-Volt-Lithium-Ion-4-1-2-in-Cordless-Cut-Off-Grinder-Tool-Only-2680-20/202196580
Any bicycle thief worth their salt owns a battery powered angle grinder.

Angle grinders work well but die grinders are smaller, cheaper,
somewhat quieter, easier to handle, and work equally well:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-3-5-Amp-1-4-in-Die-Grinder-GD0601/202517751

"Die Grinder versus Locks"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cbYVmRNzGLc


No significant difference between straight or angle tool.
As Mr Slocumb noted, a thinner cutter or abrasive disc is
faster and as with all abrasives, bigger diameter = more
feet per minute.

Ahem... Permit me to point out that the no-load RPM of the
aforementioned 3.5A Makita die grinder is 25,000 RPM. The Milwaukee
cordless angle grinder is only 8,500 RPM (no load). For equal
diameter cutoff wheels, since the delivered energy is proportional to
the square of the rim velocity, the higher RPM die grinder has:
(25K/8.5K)^2 = 8.65
times as much power at the edge.

As I mentioned in another post the die grinder is not as powerful as
the angle grinder. The Makita GD0601 1/4-Inch Die Grinder lists a 250
watt motor while the GA4030K 4" angle grinder by the same maker lists
a "6 amp motor". If we assume a 110 VAC power source then it appears
to be a 250 watt motor versus a 660 watt motor.

When using a grinder solely for stock removal the general practice is
the highest pressure against the work that still allows full rpm.



Drivel:
One of my recently acquired hobbies is knife making. I've only made
two rather crude knives so far and am therefore a total beginner. I
have both an angle grinder and a die grinder, both of which I've used
to shape a blade from old 10" table saw blades. The angle grinder is
bigger and therefore better for rough cuts. With a grinding disk,
it's also better for smoothing the outline. However, for detail work
and cutting along a curve, the die grinder is better with a small
wheel. I haven't done any speed testing so I don't know which is
better for cutting bicycle chains, cables and locks.

I'm sure that you are aware of this but unless you are re hardening
and tempering your knives don't let the color change when you are
grinding or polishing them.

In order to have some small, fixed bladed, work knives I made several
small - 2" blade - knives from all-hard power hacksaw blades. Easy to
make and seem to sharpen well but don't seem to hold an edge when
being used as well as something like a knife made from plain old
carbon steel.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 20:38:51 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

sms wrote:

The discerning bicycle thief owns a Bosch GWS
10.8-76 V-EC Professional Cordless 3" Angle
Grinder. Not sold in the U.S. but readily
purchased on eBay.

OK, I'll get one next month first thing

Bosch tools are very common here tho I don't
know if I've seen that one in particular.

I'm currently on Ryobi but if I had more money
I would switch to the most expensive Bosch and
Kamasa tools [1].

[1] https://www.kamasatools.com/

In Asia, Bosch makes, in Malaysia, quite a number tools which are
obviously made for the home handyman. They give pretty good service
but when they fail, they are dead. Almost impossible to repair.

I don't know whether Bosch still make a "professional" version - I
assume that they do - but it isn't the version you usually find on the
supermarket shelf.
--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 09:43:50 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Tue, 05 Dec 2017 12:41:13 +0700, John B.
wrote:

I
tell him yes and he tells me to wait a minute, runs into the hardware
shop, borrows a 18" flat steel ruler and comes back and pops the lock.
I thank the guy profusely and we both go on about our business. With
me speculating on how the Thai Guy got so skillful :-)

Google for "Locksport":
https://www.google.com/search?q=lock+sport
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Locksport
It's legal in some countries. There are a substantial number of
followers in the USA. Dunno about Thailand. You can easily guessing
whether I'm involved.

At one time or another I've done a bit of lock picking with home made
tools and have been able to "pick" 5 pin locks although not the first
try, usually. It is sort of interesting but now that they make
"lockpick guns" it will probably become a lost art, except in novels
:-)


I've opened car doors a few times over the years. It's fairly simple
with a Slim Jim, contorted metal rods, or various window gap
enlargers. The problem is that I had some difficulties with law
enforcement and overly concerned citizens. My most entertaining
mistake was offering to cut open a bicycle lock with bolt cutters. I
rode over to where my car was parked, tied the rather large bolt
cutters to my bicycle rack, and rode through downtown Santa Cruz. I
was soon informed by the police that this was not the most clever
thing to do in an area known for bicycle theft.

The guy was able to use the steel ruler like a slimjim, which
surprised me as thought one would need the hook on the end but he was
able to angle the ruler sufficiently to get leverage.

--
Cheers,

John B.

On Tue, 5 Dec 2017 10:01:52 -0800 (PST), Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On Monday, December 4, 2017 at 11:04:25 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:

This cannot in reasonable time unless there is
a hand tool and/or method I'm unfamiliar with.
There is something with the plastic that
prevents you from getting the power down to the
wire. If you keep at it, you'll succeed
eventually, of course, but no thief will do
that out in the open to get a bike of this
(monetary) value.

Many years ago, one bike-shop owning friend told me about the day he lost the
key to his cable lock. He had to sit at the exit to the library and cut
through the strands of the lock bit by bit.

He described the many people who walked by and clearly saw him at work, but
nobody stopped him or asked what he was doing. It took a long time but he
was able to cut the cable and ride away.

- Frank Krygowski

When you think about it what is a Joe Citizen going to say? "Errr Sir?
Is that your bicycle?" "Of course it is!"
--
Cheers,

John B.