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Tube cement, which brand is best?



 
 
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  #21  
Old December 2nd 18, 12:10 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B. Slocomb
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Posts: 365
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On Sat, 01 Dec 2018 07:33:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-30 09:01, wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2018 at 12:50:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
I've got a bunch of patch kits that contain yellow "Propatch"
cement tubes. On Sunday I had to use a kit, as usual for another
rider. We found the hole, sanded the tube, opened the li'l cement
tube ... phuffff ... only air was left inside. It was inside an
extra plastic wrap and all, didn't help. So we had to use my spare
tube.

Do you guys know a brand that is better and where a bunch of these
little tubes could be bought sans patches? Not so much for me but
for other riders because many reported similar problems.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

The cement and patch are designed to work with one another. There are
chemicals on the patch that are activated by chemicals in the cement.
Different manufacturers use different activators. You will get best
results, if you don't mix manufacturers.

I've found the Rema Tip-Top patches with their tubes of cold
vulcanizing fluid to work extremely well.


After recommendations in this NG I bought a larger pot with tube cement
and with a dabbing tool mounted inside the lid. I have used that on
various patches and it worked well. It's just way to large to carry
along in a pannier.


A growler of beer is fine but a can of tube cement is too large?


cheers,

John B.


Ads
  #22  
Old December 2nd 18, 03:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,819
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On Saturday, December 1, 2018 at 6:10:18 PM UTC-5, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2018 07:33:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-30 09:01, wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2018 at 12:50:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
I've got a bunch of patch kits that contain yellow "Propatch"
cement tubes. On Sunday I had to use a kit, as usual for another
rider. We found the hole, sanded the tube, opened the li'l cement
tube ... phuffff ... only air was left inside. It was inside an
extra plastic wrap and all, didn't help. So we had to use my spare
tube.

Do you guys know a brand that is better and where a bunch of these
little tubes could be bought sans patches? Not so much for me but
for other riders because many reported similar problems.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

The cement and patch are designed to work with one another. There are
chemicals on the patch that are activated by chemicals in the cement.
Different manufacturers use different activators. You will get best
results, if you don't mix manufacturers.

I've found the Rema Tip-Top patches with their tubes of cold
vulcanizing fluid to work extremely well.


After recommendations in this NG I bought a larger pot with tube cement
and with a dabbing tool mounted inside the lid. I have used that on
various patches and it worked well. It's just way to large to carry
along in a pannier.


A growler of beer is fine but a can of tube cement is too large?


cheers,

John B.


With all the stuff he carries in case he meets someone in one of many difficulties he probable doesn't have room for it. I'm surprised he doesn't need/use a trailer.

Cheers
  #23  
Old December 2nd 18, 02:37 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
patrick[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat
  #24  
Old December 2nd 18, 04:50 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Joerg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,607
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On 2018-12-02 05:37, patrick wrote:
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic
component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat


After opening, yes. For an unopened tube (top not punched) it could only
be the fold seal at the bottom or imperfections in the metal.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
  #25  
Old December 2nd 18, 05:23 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 6,434
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On 12/2/2018 8:37 AM, patrick wrote:
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube? Pat


Consensus? In this group??

Tubes are initially sealed at the top with molded-in metal caps - i.e.
the bit that you poke to open with the outer edge of the plastic cap. So
if a tube goes dry without being opened, I suspect it's leaked through
the crimp, unless it's been battered in a bike bag and developed a tiny
hole. But I must say, I can't remember having an unopened tube dry out.

I think in almost all other cases, it's simply the cap not re-sealing well.

If I had lots of problems with glue drying out, I might try putting a
bit of aluminum foil over the opening before screwing the cap down
tight, on the theory that the metal is less permeable than the plastic.
But like most things discussed at length here, this just isn't a major
problem for me.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #26  
Old December 2nd 18, 05:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
AMuzi
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 9,855
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On 12/1/2018 5:10 PM, John B. slocomb wrote:
On Sat, 01 Dec 2018 07:33:33 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

On 2018-11-30 09:01, wrote:
On Thursday, November 29, 2018 at 12:50:52 PM UTC-5, Joerg wrote:
I've got a bunch of patch kits that contain yellow "Propatch"
cement tubes. On Sunday I had to use a kit, as usual for another
rider. We found the hole, sanded the tube, opened the li'l cement
tube ... phuffff ... only air was left inside. It was inside an
extra plastic wrap and all, didn't help. So we had to use my spare
tube.

Do you guys know a brand that is better and where a bunch of these
little tubes could be bought sans patches? Not so much for me but
for other riders because many reported similar problems.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

The cement and patch are designed to work with one another. There are
chemicals on the patch that are activated by chemicals in the cement.
Different manufacturers use different activators. You will get best
results, if you don't mix manufacturers.

I've found the Rema Tip-Top patches with their tubes of cold
vulcanizing fluid to work extremely well.


After recommendations in this NG I bought a larger pot with tube cement
and with a dabbing tool mounted inside the lid. I have used that on
various patches and it worked well. It's just way to large to carry
along in a pannier.


A growler of beer is fine but a can of tube cement is too large?



Priorities.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971


  #27  
Old December 2nd 18, 06:50 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Tosspot[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,207
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On 12/2/18 5:23 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/2/2018 8:37 AM, patrick wrote:
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic
component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube?**** Pat


Consensus? In this group??

Tubes are initially sealed at the top with molded-in metal caps - i.e.
the bit that you poke to open with the outer edge of the plastic cap. So
if a tube goes dry without being opened, I suspect it's leaked through
the crimp, unless it's been battered in a bike bag and developed a tiny
hole. But I must say, I can't remember having an unopened tube dry out.

I think in almost all other cases, it's simply the cap not re-sealing well.

If I had lots of problems with glue drying out, I might try putting a
bit of aluminum foil over the opening before screwing the cap down
tight, on the theory that the metal is less permeable than the plastic.
But like most things discussed at length here, this just isn't a major
problem for me.




They never seem to last much over a year once opened ime. I buy small,
arguably one use tubes now as the M+s are a *long* way between punctures.


  #28  
Old December 2nd 18, 09:39 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Jeff Liebermann
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,928
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 05:37:53 -0800 (PST), patrick
wrote:

So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic
component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube?
Pat


I've had unused tubes empty themselves, with the top seal not
punctured. The only other avenues of escape a
1. Through the plastic or aluminum tube (unlikely).
2. Through the seal at the bottom of the tube. (winner by default).

The problem with the bottom seal theory is that I've tried to squeeze
a brand new tube with all my strength and nothing comes out of the
tube. I even tried it inside a plastic bag, in a bench vise, and the
seal held (before the side of the tube blew out). I also left it with
pressure applied from a pile of junk on top of the tube, and nothing
came out. Either my $0.50/ea tubes are amazingly well sealed, or I'm
doing something wrong.

I'm willing to try this again, but it will need to wait about 2 weeks
until I'm done with some medical issues and my traditional end of the
year billing panic.

For general amusement:

MSDS for REMA Tip Top cold vulcanizing fluids show that they contains
trichloroethylene:
https://www.myerstiresupply.com/MyersTireSupply/media/myers-tire-supply/MSDS-pdfs/MSDS91100_01_02_Chm_Vulc_Fl.pdf
http://yourtireshopsupply.com/download?pID=220&fID=2598
No clue if the Calif VoC ban applies.

Nagging question: is "vulcanizing fluid" just plain old rubber cement?
https://www.bikeforums.net/19907991-post1.html

Is rubber cement in stationery stores the same as in tire patch kits?
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/35317/is-rubber-cement-in-stationery-stores-the-same-as-in-tire-patch-kits
The "rubber cement" in the patch kit isn't a vulcanizing glue,
it's a devulcanizing compound which breaks apart the little
vulcanized polymer chains allowing for new cross-linking to
happen.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
  #29  
Old December 3rd 18, 04:43 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 493
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On Sunday, December 2, 2018 at 12:39:29 PM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 2 Dec 2018 05:37:53 -0800 (PST), patrick
wrote:

So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic
component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube?
Pat


I've had unused tubes empty themselves, with the top seal not
punctured. The only other avenues of escape a
1. Through the plastic or aluminum tube (unlikely).
2. Through the seal at the bottom of the tube. (winner by default).

The problem with the bottom seal theory is that I've tried to squeeze
a brand new tube with all my strength and nothing comes out of the
tube. I even tried it inside a plastic bag, in a bench vise, and the
seal held (before the side of the tube blew out). I also left it with
pressure applied from a pile of junk on top of the tube, and nothing
came out. Either my $0.50/ea tubes are amazingly well sealed, or I'm
doing something wrong.

I'm willing to try this again, but it will need to wait about 2 weeks
until I'm done with some medical issues and my traditional end of the
year billing panic.

For general amusement:

MSDS for REMA Tip Top cold vulcanizing fluids show that they contains
trichloroethylene:
https://www.myerstiresupply.com/MyersTireSupply/media/myers-tire-supply/MSDS-pdfs/MSDS91100_01_02_Chm_Vulc_Fl.pdf
http://yourtireshopsupply.com/download?pID=220&fID=2598
No clue if the Calif VoC ban applies.

Nagging question: is "vulcanizing fluid" just plain old rubber cement?
https://www.bikeforums.net/19907991-post1.html

Is rubber cement in stationery stores the same as in tire patch kits?
https://bicycles.stackexchange.com/questions/35317/is-rubber-cement-in-stationery-stores-the-same-as-in-tire-patch-kits
The "rubber cement" in the patch kit isn't a vulcanizing glue,
it's a devulcanizing compound which breaks apart the little
vulcanized polymer chains allowing for new cross-linking to
happen.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


Hey Jeff, medical issues FIRST. I think I'm over the hump with my flu. I think that it was the flu that caused my brother to have a heart attack the other evening. While in the ER, it was packed and the orderly told me that they were all there for flu. The shots missed again this year. Wrong variation.

My brother will be having a stint put into his heart this afternoon. He may have to have a bypass but he is adamantly against full surgery so if that's necessary he won't be long on this world.
  #30  
Old December 3rd 18, 04:45 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 493
Default Tube cement, which brand is best?

On Monday, December 3, 2018 at 7:35:11 AM UTC-8, Tosspot wrote:
On 12/2/18 5:23 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 12/2/2018 8:37 AM, patrick wrote:
So is it consensus that the route for the escape of the aromatic
component is the screw top or the crimp bottom of the tube?**** Pat


Consensus? In this group??

Tubes are initially sealed at the top with molded-in metal caps - i.e.
the bit that you poke to open with the outer edge of the plastic cap. So
if a tube goes dry without being opened, I suspect it's leaked through
the crimp, unless it's been battered in a bike bag and developed a tiny
hole. But I must say, I can't remember having an unopened tube dry out.

I think in almost all other cases, it's simply the cap not re-sealing well.

If I had lots of problems with glue drying out, I might try putting a
bit of aluminum foil over the opening before screwing the cap down
tight, on the theory that the metal is less permeable than the plastic.
But like most things discussed at length here, this just isn't a major
problem for me.




They never seem to last much over a year once opened ime. I buy small,
arguably one use tubes now as the M+s are a *long* way between punctures.


I like the self-sticking quick patches. Once you learn how to use them they work well.
 




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