Tubeless Nightrider!

Unfortunately, I have no scale capable of measuring my wheel. When I put
it on the only scale I own, it just read zero (zero mass coker wheel?
Thats a lot of drilling). However the weight savings are very
noticeable when riding. I also think that it has a different feel, but
that could just be a side effect of the weight reduction. I think its
probably very close to the weight savings of a stretched 29er tube. I
used about 1/2 of the 29er tube and then added less than 200g sealant.

I just took the machine on a ride, and it felt great! Acceleration was
the first thing I noticed. Not only is it easier to get from zero to a
cruising speed, it's also easier to get to a faster cruising speed. It
just seemed easier to ride fast. It also felt better in the sand than
before. Turning and stopping took less effort.

Here is the process, it's fairly simple:
1) Get the following items: 29" tube, Stans "The Solution" (what a
double entendre) sealant, a knife, scissors, an air compressor.
2) Take off your tire, and remove your tube.
3) Inflate the 29" tube very slightly.
4) Make a small cut in the outside seam of the tube. This is the seam
that is directly across from the valve.
5) Cut along that seam with scissors. Be careful not to puncture the
tube!
6) Stretch your newly made rim strip over your wheel.
7) Put one bead of the tire on without using tools (tools are likely to
damage the rim strip.) This isn't easy, soap on the bead of the tire
will help a lot.
8) Hang the tire in a place with a floor that you don't mind getting
dirty. Pour sealant into the bottom of the tire (I used 2.5 scoops)
9) Shake... Be careful, sealant can leak out, but this will help during
inflation.
10) Inflate! This will require an air compressor. I tried many times
with a very good pump (Joe Blow Sport) but had no luck. I just used a
gas station compressor. You will need to play around with the tire
right at the valve in order to get the air to flow into the tire. I had
to push down on the tire above the valve to get the bead to expand. Once
I did this, the tire inflated right away. I've got mine running around
35 PSI and since I'm really light, I have no reason to go to a higher
pressure.

Feel free to ask any questions here. I'll do my best to help!

Now I need to lighten it more . I'm thinking replace the DX pedals,
and maybe the KH36 frame


--
Eroick

--Eric Evenchick
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Cool, congratulations on joining the tubeless revolution.

I had tubeless on my Coker a couple of years ago...but the old Coker
tyres are no good for tubeless. First one was ok, but the second and
third time I tried it I blew the bead. Hopefully the better quality
Nightrider tyres will solve this problem.

In terms of weight saved, I think it depends on how much sealant you
put in. It probably saves about the same as going with a 29'er tube,
but gives a much nicer, springier ride, even at the same pressure.


--
GizmoDuck

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Ken, of course I knew you did tubeless in the past. Where did you think
I got the idea from . I hope that the nightrider beats the coker
tire in terms of reliability, and judging by how tight a fit it was to
put it on the rim, I don't think the bead is going anywhere. I hope



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Eroick

--Eric Evenchick
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I'm really interested to see how this goes Eroick! The main reason I
don't use it anymore is because of the Coker tyre. I think the
Nightrider has a higher PSI rating and is also a better quality tyre.
The tubeless conversion puts slightly more stress on the bead I think.

Will be converting my new wheelset when I get home to New Zealand next
month.


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The SINZ Unicycle Tour 2007....South Island, New Zealand
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The Induni Unicycle Tour 2009. Unicycle Tour of India. Email me for
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Eroick wrote:

10) Inflate! This will require an air compressor. I tried many times
with a very good pump (Joe Blow Sport) but had no luck.



When I've converted bike tyres in this way I've used highly
concentrated or neat washing up liquid brushed around the join between
the tyre and the rim; it is sufficiently thick and gooey to form just
enough of a seal to get the tyre to sit on the rim properly when
inflating it with a track pump, from where it will seal itself.

CO2 cartridge inflators are also handy for a blast of high pressure air
before you give up and head down to your nearest garage!


--
phil

"Cattle Prods solve most of life's little problems."
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It's worth adding that after I did this, I realized that my pump was
leaking a lot of air. I probably could have done it with the pump if I
had closed the little seal on the bottom first! Anyway, the tubeless is
still alive and well, I'm also keeping a running total of how many km
I've put on it.


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Eroick

--Eric Evenchick
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Hey! Is the tubeless system still going fine? How many KMs or Miles have
you put on it so far?


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JDog7001
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Hi Eric!

Remember me? We rode together in August when you were in Grenoble,
France! I hope you are doing well...

So you converted to tubeless your 36" wheel??? This is cool!

Like JDog7001, I'd like to hear about how well your setup lasted over
the few last weeks...

Cheers, Pascal/MadC.

PS: I got my KH36 from UDC UK the day after I went back from vacation
(beg. of September) = this is a great machine, go for it as soon as you
can afford! I really love the design, the (perceived?) increased
rigidity vs Nimbus 36, the ISIS hub (which my Nimbus 36 did not have...
it was the original square-tapered hub version).


--
madc-ccc
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Besides the weight, don't you also get the benefit of getting far less
flats with the tubeless setup, assuming you're adding a good sealant
(Stan's by far the best IMO)? I would love to do this to my KH29, my
local trails are rife with thorns every spring & fall.


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munimutant
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4) Make a small cut in the outside seam of the tube. This is the seam
that is directly across from the valve.

Could you post some kind of photo or something of the seam? I'm not
completely sure of what you mean.


--
JDog7001
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