Boeshield and Rust Free

I recently acquired an older steel frame for a vintage bike. The Boeshield came packaged with a product called Rust Free (phosphoric acid) to dissolve existing rust. The instructions say to wet the metal with Rust Free and then wipe it off. Easier said than done on a bicycle frame. It also says to rinse the metal with soap and water to neutralize the product.

Has anyone tried doing these steps with a bike frame prior to coating the inside of the tubes with Boeshield as a rust preventative?

On 8/22/2013 8:45 AM, wrote:
I recently acquired an older steel frame for a vintage bike. The Boeshield came packaged with a product called Rust Free (phosphoric acid) to dissolve existing rust. The instructions say to wet the metal with Rust Free and then wipe it off. Easier said than done on a bicycle frame. It also says to rinse the metal with soap and water to neutralize the product.

Has anyone tried doing these steps with a bike frame prior to coating the inside of the tubes with Boeshield as a rust preventative?


Similar products are standard procedure for metal prep
before paint but I can't imagine how one might use them
inside a tube.

For one thing, you can't see the blue color change to time
the rinse nor a yellow to indicate a second pass.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...pection-scopes


......

FAITH DUDE FAITH...or Mercy if Faith is out...

Rustoleum ! Red Rusto will stick to your asshole.

so, disassemble the bike, stop up the relevant tube ends n pourin odor freeeeeeeeeee paint thinner.

There's a dance for the next stage. You need to rotate and spin the frame rinsing all surfaces but IMHO not soaking the insides assuming there's paint still in there. Your choice.


A close look at the Bottom Bracket interior tubing will advise as this is the nether area.

Dry the frame in HOT SUN. No condensation buildup prior to adding either thinned red rusto primer or clean metal white primer.

If you have a cared for quality frame there should be an intact factory coat inside but then you cannot see chain/seat stays or fork ends.

There are brushes for the mess at the top seat tube. try loosescrews or bicycletools. a dowel wrapped in sandpaper will do....sand frame upside down.

get the rusto at Wal. Wal's rusto is thinned AAA if well shaken at the store shaker. adding uh 1/3 cup to a quart shoukd be right for a frame. the small can isnot enough.

you may add gloss white over the primer when primer is fully cured IN HOT SUN prob takes 2 weeks curing.

also possible for a rusty suspect frame is boiled linseed well thinned out as the primer. Describing this thinning is difficult. Uh try water like.

Primers need thinning allowing primer flow into the myriad small canyons/cracks/pits you cannot see with the bare eye.

Linseed 'polymerizes' into an organic plastic. If the temp is hot n there's a wee film of thinner...snifff....in there...and you do the dance correctly...linseed will seal out oxygen and water from existing rust areas.

the existing rust starves from lack of nutrients slowly hardening into a non invasive rust area.

I would cover linseed with clean metal primer then gloss white.

if you're compulsive and have a classic frame once ridden by Uberto Maggioli in the '56 tour of Escambia then maybe a metal latex vapor barrier over the gloss rusto but this is a chancey deal as you may have left a small bare spot....

there are books on rust removal and EXPENSIVE rust paints...visit West Marine's paint dept for $$$ n pick up some West epoxy 6500.

boiling hot basic chemicals are the ultimate followed by hot rinse rinse rinse rinse then immediately dried dried dried them painted with oneadem $$$ primers.

for a tour winner or the 4 cylinder Curtis you found at the garage sale.

On Boeshield...

never used it. reading abt using BS, get the imperssion BS is more toward an aircraft level of moisture/cleanliness

I harbored the idea BS might be an advanced compound eg a highly active hydrophilic lube and vapor barrier but am told this isnot the case.

Venerable Dupont has 4 packs of teflon lubes in competition but not availability at Home Depot in the upper middle class nab I frequent n the stuff didn't move.

BS lives in this area with Finish Line Wax with Teflon, the raining bike sliding low temp lube

On Thursday, August 22, 2013 1:31:31 PM UTC-5, datakoll wrote:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/d...pection-scopes





.....



FAITH DUDE FAITH...or Mercy if Faith is out...



Rustoleum ! Red Rusto will stick to your asshole.



so, disassemble the bike, stop up the relevant tube ends n pourin odor freeeeeeeeeee paint thinner.



There's a dance for the next stage. You need to rotate and spin the frame rinsing all surfaces but IMHO not soaking the insides assuming there's paint still in there. Your choice.





A close look at the Bottom Bracket interior tubing will advise as this is the nether area.



Dry the frame in HOT SUN. No condensation buildup prior to adding either thinned red rusto primer or clean metal white primer.



If you have a cared for quality frame there should be an intact factory coat inside but then you cannot see chain/seat stays or fork ends.



There are brushes for the mess at the top seat tube. try loosescrews or bicycletools. a dowel wrapped in sandpaper will do....sand frame upside down.



get the rusto at Wal. Wal's rusto is thinned AAA if well shaken at the store shaker. adding uh 1/3 cup to a quart shoukd be right for a frame. the small can isnot enough.



you may add gloss white over the primer when primer is fully cured IN HOT SUN prob takes 2 weeks curing.



also possible for a rusty suspect frame is boiled linseed well thinned out as the primer. Describing this thinning is difficult. Uh try water like.



Primers need thinning allowing primer flow into the myriad small canyons/cracks/pits you cannot see with the bare eye.



Linseed 'polymerizes' into an organic plastic. If the temp is hot n there's a wee film of thinner...snifff....in there...and you do the dance correctly...linseed will seal out oxygen and water from existing rust areas.



the existing rust starves from lack of nutrients slowly hardening into a non invasive rust area.



I would cover linseed with clean metal primer then gloss white.



if you're compulsive and have a classic frame once ridden by Uberto Maggioli in the '56 tour of Escambia then maybe a metal latex vapor barrier over the gloss rusto but this is a chancey deal as you may have left a small bare spot....



there are books on rust removal and EXPENSIVE rust paints...visit West Marine's paint dept for $$$ n pick up some West epoxy 6500.



boiling hot basic chemicals are the ultimate followed by hot rinse rinse rinse rinse then immediately dried dried dried them painted with oneadem $$$ primers.



for a tour winner or the 4 cylinder Curtis you found at the garage sale.

Lawton Chiles won the climbers jersey in the '56 ToE.

On Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:45:08 AM UTC-4, wrote:
I recently acquired an older steel frame for a vintage bike. The Boeshield came packaged with a product called Rust Free (phosphoric acid) to dissolve existing rust. The instructions say to wet the metal with Rust Free and then wipe it off. Easier said than done on a bicycle frame. It also says to rinse the metal with soap and water to neutralize the product.



Has anyone tried doing these steps with a bike frame prior to coating the inside of the tubes with Boeshield as a rust preventative?

I can tell you what I did; I did not attempt to get the inside of my frame spotless but rather cleaned the frame inside and out with kerosene and a frame brush - kerosene being an old farmer's trick to keep metal from rusting as when it evaporates it will leave a thin wax coating behind. then I followed it after letting it dry outside in the summer overnight with some Frame Saver which I assume is similar to Boeshield. I know that this is completely anecdotal, but I see no evidence of new rust 4-5 years later. (the frame had survived since 1984 with no apparent treatment at all, although I obviously have no idea in what conditions it was used prior to my ownership..)

nate

On Thursday, August 22, 2013 3:07:23 PM UTC-4, N8N wrote:
On Thursday, August 22, 2013 9:45:08 AM UTC-4, wrote:

I recently acquired an older steel frame for a vintage bike. The Boeshield came packaged with a product called Rust Free (phosphoric acid) to dissolve existing rust. The instructions say to wet the metal with Rust Free and then wipe it off. Easier said than done on a bicycle frame. It also says to rinse the metal with soap and water to neutralize the product.







Has anyone tried doing these steps with a bike frame prior to coating the inside of the tubes with Boeshield as a rust preventative?



I can tell you what I did; I did not attempt to get the inside of my frame spotless but rather cleaned the frame inside and out with kerosene and a frame brush - kerosene being an old farmer's trick to keep metal from rusting as when it evaporates it will leave a thin wax coating behind. then I followed it after letting it dry outside in the summer overnight with some Frame Saver which I assume is similar to Boeshield. I know that this is completely anecdotal, but I see no evidence of new rust 4-5 years later. (the frame had survived since 1984 with no apparent treatment at all, although I obviously have no idea in what conditions it was used prior to my ownership.)



nate

r r r r r


right ! placing a vapor barrier on a relatively clean surface then painting n keeping the surface dry usually solves the potential problem unless a layer of active rust is in there. The layer would hold enough moisture for an active rusting area even if sealed off from more moisture n O2.

you could mix kero with linseed ?

Frame Saver is, I hear not experience, a linseed concoction. BS is a wax solution.

local noise sez BS contains linseed.

Epic formulates with linseed. Recycling Epic lubed chain cleaning thinner, bottle and stilled evaps aromatic linseed.

On Thu, 22 Aug 2013 06:45:08 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

I recently acquired an older steel frame for a vintage bike. The Boeshield came packaged with a product called Rust Free (phosphoric acid) to dissolve existing rust. The instructions say to wet the metal with Rust Free and then wipe it off. Easier said than done on a bicycle frame. It also says to rinse the metal with soap and water to neutralize the product.

Has anyone tried doing these steps with a bike frame prior to coating the inside of the tubes with Boeshield as a rust preventative?

Generally, phosphoric treatments can be used to remove rust or to
convert the red iron oxide to ferric phosphate which, to quote the
Wiki, "The black phosphate coating can also be left in place, where it
will provide moderate further corrosion resistance".

I use a phosphoric acid concentrate (that you mix with water in
various concentrations to remove rust or provide a phosphate coating)
and in all cases the instructions tell you to "remove from the
solution and air dry".

What I do is to flush the inside of the tubes with the solution of
water and acid and then hang the frame up and let it dry for a day or
so. then spray the inside of the tubes with whatever you are using for
a rust inhibitor. One could also blow the tubes dry with compressed
air or even use a hair dryer to warm the tubes to assist in drying

As an aside, if it is not a new frame I would be careful to clean any
corrosion from the portion of the seat tube where the seat post fits.
I once had a perfectly horrid experience with a seat post that was
frozen in place :-(
--
Cheers,

John B.

using acids inside an unseen tube with ledges n dams is chancey.

and uneccessary. A thinner rinse is adequate. If you have the Escambia Tour winner n suspect interior rust deposits then take the pipe to a professional service.

the hair dryer is often used in a moist environment

http://reviews.sallybeauty.com/6151/...51/reviews.htm

also a heat gun see summit racing heat gun.