|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements"article
I've been asked to write one of those articles with the format of "10
Things..." that magazines seem to adore these days. This is on the subject of buying bicycle headlights. I completed a first draft, and the earlier thread on "overhanging trees..." provided some good material and came just at the right time. The drawings I made are not what will be published, they have a graphic designer that will re-do them. The word count for each section is suppose to be not more than 100 words of text, though I think they'll give me a little leeway. Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics won't show up, so I put the first draft up he http://nordicgroup.us/ten/ |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements" article
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 14:55:52 -0700, sms
wrote: Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics won't show up, so I put the first draft up he http://nordicgroup.us/ten/ Nicely done. Good minimalist text. A few personal opinions, nit picks, and commentoids: 1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is inadequate. What giveth? 2. No mention of recharging the battery on the bicycle? Running out of battery power without warning is a common risk. Of course, one could carry spare batteries, but charge as you ride (during the day) seems a much better idea. I'll confess to using throw away alkalines, which have the decency to fade away, rather than suddenly crap out, which gives me some warning. 3. Putting "Flash Mode" as #5, much less as a "must have" requirement, seems a bit odd. I don't think it's worthy of the top ten. I would replace it with something like "Being Seen" lights, which could include side lighting. 4. Better yet, replace "Flash Mode" with "Minimum Side Leakage" so that I don't get a face full of blinding light when leaning over the handlebars. The Nebo Redline in the article is particularly bad for this as the multi-faceted corners of the light shade to a wonderful job of reflecting small amounts of light at odd angles that usually end up in my face. The serrated edge is great as a weapon, but not much else. 5. Do some reorganization of the text under the photos of the various flashlights. Putting the selling price, next to the number of lumens, makes the Silva Pave read like it was a $260,550 light. 6. I don't know about "Multiple Light Levels". You seem to suggest that 3 levels are required, yet your text hints that "some" lights have two, that are still acceptable. I don't have a problem with only 2 light levels on my Planet Earth Blaze. So, is the minimum no-compromise requirement 2 or 3 levels of brightness? Gotta run... -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements"article
On 8/2/2013 3:39 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 14:55:52 -0700, sms wrote: Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics won't show up, so I put the first draft up he http://nordicgroup.us/ten/ Nicely done. Good minimalist text. A few personal opinions, nit picks, and commentoids: 1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is inadequate. What giveth? Not my opinion. I have several bicycles in the fleet with dynamo wheels. But the reality is that dynamo lights are sold in just a handful of locations in the entire country (other than drugstore quality bottle dynamos with incandescent lights). Most of the dynamo lights sold in the U.S. come with one of the commute bicycles that include a hub dynamo (some Breezer, Novara, and Tern models). Also, there are almost no dynamo lights with a front flasher, the Planet Bike model is the only one I know of. 2. No mention of recharging the battery on the bicycle? Running out of battery power without warning is a common risk. Of course, one could carry spare batteries, but charge as you ride (during the day) seems a much better idea. I'll confess to using throw away alkalines, which have the decency to fade away, rather than suddenly crap out, which gives me some warning. That is a good point. Some lights do offer USB recharging, and it would be easy to hook a hub dynamo up to them through one of the adapters available. But again, that's something that a vanishingly small number of people would ever consider. 3. Putting "Flash Mode" as #5, much less as a "must have" requirement, seems a bit odd. The items are not in any specific order, I will disclose that. It's really not an issue anyway since you'd be hard-pressed to buy a modern bicycle light without a flash mode anymore. 4. Better yet, replace "Flash Mode" with "Minimum Side Leakage" so that I don't get a face full of blinding light when leaning over the handlebars. The Nebo Redline in the article is particularly bad for this as the multi-faceted corners of the light shade to a wonderful job of reflecting small amounts of light at odd angles that usually end up in my face. The serrated edge is great as a weapon, but not much else. You need a weapon in Santa Cruz. 5. Do some reorganization of the text under the photos of the various flashlights. Putting the selling price, next to the number of lumens, makes the Silva Pave read like it was a $260,550 light. Okay. 6. I don't know about "Multiple Light Levels". You seem to suggest that 3 levels are required, yet your text hints that "some" lights have two, that are still acceptable. I don't have a problem with only 2 light levels on my Planet Earth Blaze. So, is the minimum no-compromise requirement 2 or 3 levels of brightness? I'll fix that. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-CompromiseRequirements" article
On Friday, August 2, 2013 4:55:52 PM UTC-5, sms wrote:
I've been asked to write one of those articles with the format of "10 Things..." that magazines seem to adore these days. This is on the subject of buying bicycle headlights. I completed a first draft, and the earlier thread on "overhanging trees..." provided some good material and came just at the right time. The drawings I made are not what will be published, they have a graphic designer that will re-do them. The word count for each section is suppose to be not more than 100 words of text, though I think they'll give me a little leeway. Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics won't show up, so I put the first draft up he http://nordicgroup.us/ten/ Stopped reading after the first section, you call a completely improper beam pattern the "optimal" one, and cross out what could be a decent one as "sub-optimal." I'm starting to suspect that you've never actually used a purpose built bicycle light. I actually don't mean that as an insult, but you really should try one. Least expensive currently sold light I've seen with a "road" beam pattern that isn't a dyno light is the Ixon Basic at about $50, so it's not a bank breaker. nate |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements" article
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 15:56:15 -0700, sms
wrote: On 8/2/2013 3:39 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: 1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is inadequate. What giveth? Not my opinion. I have several bicycles in the fleet with dynamo wheels. But the reality is that dynamo lights are sold in just a handful of locations in the entire country (other than drugstore quality bottle dynamos with incandescent lights). Unfortunately true. I queried some of the local bike shops for dynamo powered lights. Nobody had any in stock. Some didn't know what I was asking. Still, I think you should mention dynamo power somewhere in the laundry list. Also, you might want to exclude bike lights that run on AAA or 123 size batteries. The AAA last about 1/3 as long as the AA equivalents. The 123 size are too expensive. But again, that's something that a vanishingly small number of people would ever consider. Perhaps this is the chicken or egg problem? The reason most people don't consider dynamo power and USB charging is because it's not commonly available. Were it more common, it might also be more popular. You need a weapon in Santa Cruz. Done: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/slides/bicycle-flashlight.html Requirement 11. It should be affordable. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-CompromiseRequirements" article
On Friday, August 2, 2013 7:33:20 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 02 Aug 2013 15:56:15 -0700, sms wrote: On 8/2/2013 3:39 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: 1. You seem to have totally eliminated dynamo powered lights. Was that part of the instructions or your personal opinion of dynamo power? The title "Proper Power Source", when then goes on to talk only about battery power suggests that somehow dynamo power is inadequate. What giveth? Not my opinion. I have several bicycles in the fleet with dynamo wheels. But the reality is that dynamo lights are sold in just a handful of locations in the entire country (other than drugstore quality bottle dynamos with incandescent lights). Unfortunately true. I queried some of the local bike shops for dynamo powered lights. Nobody had any in stock. Some didn't know what I was asking. Still, I think you should mention dynamo power somewhere in the laundry list. Also, you might want to exclude bike lights that run on AAA or 123 size batteries. The AAA last about 1/3 as long as the AA equivalents. The 123 size are too expensive. CR123As aren't all that expensive if you know where to buy them, e.g. online. but they still are lithium primary cells e.g. one use. However there are RCR123s (rechargeable) available, just make sure that your light will handle them as they run at a slightly higher voltage than regular CR123As. Also the charger that you use for your rechargeable NiMHs won't work with them, they need their own charger. Check out candlepowerforums for more info - Surefire flashlights are still popular (heck, I have one) and use 123s (although boring the bodies for e.g.. 18650s are popular.) If you're going to suggest rechargeable lithiums though there needs to be some discussion of proper safety procedures as they can 'splode on you if not treated with respect. For that matter, there still needs to be a disclaimer that mixing new and used CR123A primaries can be quite dangerous - replace cells in complete sets only (and from the same package if possible, if not, at least same mfgr., similar date code, and check voltage to make sure there's not too much mismatch.) For most people, for a battery operated device I would recommend plain old AA Eneloops, as they're quite good and fairly foolproof with a good charger (e.g. Maha C9000 or similar.) nate |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements"article
On 8/2/2013 5:29 PM, N8N wrote:
Stopped reading after the first section, you call a completely improper beam pattern the "optimal" one, and cross out what could be a decent one as "sub-optimal. I’m more than happy to explain this to you. What I can't so is to understand it for you. I'm starting to suspect that you've never actually used a purpose built bicycle light. And you would be wrong. Again. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-CompromiseRequirements" article
On Friday, August 2, 2013 7:51:50 PM UTC-5, sms wrote:
On 8/2/2013 5:29 PM, N8N wrote: Stopped reading after the first section, you call a completely improper beam pattern the "optimal" one, and cross out what could be a decent one as "sub-optimal. I’m more than happy to explain this to you. What I can't so is to understand it for you. Clearly not. You would also have to understand it yourself to attempt to explain it. I'm starting to suspect that you've never actually used a purpose built bicycle light. And you would be wrong. Again. Assertion, and yet no proof whatsoever. I actually have experience, as well as legislation (of various EU countries) on my side. You have your say-so, without even anecdotal support. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-Compromise Requirements"article
On 8/2/2013 5:33 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Also, you might want to exclude bike lights that run on AAA or 123 size batteries. The AAA last about 1/3 as long as the AA equivalents. The 123 size are too expensive. That might be a good idea except that for some people the shorter run time doesn't matter, especially if they're using rechargeables. Also, many 3AA lights (with the batteries in a holder) can also use a single 18650 Li-Ion rechargeable. Perhaps this is the chicken or egg problem? The reason most people don't consider dynamo power and USB charging is because it's not commonly available. Were it more common, it might also be more popular. I think the biggest problem is that you have to buy a new wheel with a dynamo hub in _addition_ to the more expensive light. Not many people will buy a hub and spokes and rebuild a wheel (and if you're buying those items at retail you may as just buy a new wheel anyway). BTW, I did mention dynamo lighting originally, and now I moved it to a better place. I may add a link to Peter White's web site. I need to be succinct in the article, not verbose. You need a weapon in Santa Cruz. Done: http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/slides/bicycle-flashlight.html That's a kludge, not a hack. You can't remove it quickly enough to use it as a weapon. I would build a mount with two D size Maglite clips, some aluminum flat bar, and a handlebar clamp (two clamps, given the mass of that thing). http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N9ER. Similar to this http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0239.JPG or this http://nordicgroup.us/s78/images/IMG_0303.JPG but modified for the greater mass of the 4D or 5D. Requirement 11. It should be affordable. Argh. I was at a focus group the other day for a piece of test equipment that Tektronix is bringing out. They asked us for opinions on the marketing and advertising materials they had prepared, i.e. "which of these do you like best and which do you hate?" All of us hated the one where they used "affordable." As Don Lancaster wrote, just substitute "lemon scented" any time you see "affordable." affordable to someone else. We also hated "as low as." The opinion of the engineers was to give an actual price range, not to equivocate. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
"Choosing Lights for Your Bicycle: Ten No-CompromiseRequirements" article
Yo, Scharfie. I agree with you, the EU-legal wide, flat beam shape isn't optimal. But Nate is right. You must find space in your 100 words to point out that the best lights available have some kind of a cutoff, and that they aren't available with a flashing mode. I have a zooming flashlight, branded by the German supermarket Lidl, with zoom and flash modes, and it throws nearly as much light as my BUMM IQ Fly driven off a 36V battery, and doesn't have the hotspot, but you put that flashlight on your bike in Germany, and you do not pass jaii.
Also, if there will be a bicycle revival, it will be an electric bike (pedelec) revival, so big-battery lamps like mine will become more commonplace. You may be right: the dynamo's time has come and gone unnoticed in the States. But elsewhere for another decade or two, the dominant mode of bike lamps will be dynamo-powered. The problem with these soundbite articles is that they can offer no depth. Leaving dynamos out is a mistake because the best and most convenient dedicated bicycle lamps are driven by dynamos, and cutting edge cyclists in the States know this and use dynamo setups. If you leave out dynamo lamps, you run the risk of looking like an insular provincial idiot, and we already have enough of those on RBT. Your objection of expense holds zero water: that's an artifact of the congenitally expensive Peter White having the import agency for the best lamps, which started overpriced anyway at the BUMM factory. Andre Jute On Friday, August 2, 2013 10:55:52 PM UTC+1, sms wrote: I've been asked to write one of those articles with the format of "10 Things..." that magazines seem to adore these days. This is on the subject of buying bicycle headlights. I completed a first draft, and the earlier thread on "overhanging trees..." provided some good material and came just at the right time. The drawings I made are not what will be published, they have a graphic designer that will re-do them. The word count for each section is suppose to be not more than 100 words of text, though I think they'll give me a little leeway. Any comments are welcome. It's too long to post here, and the graphics won't show up, so I put the first draft up he http://nordicgroup.us/ten/ |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
"Big drop in number of young people choosing to drive" | Doug[_12_] | UK | 5 | August 6th 11 09:44 AM |
Scientific American "A Twenty Five Cent Bicycle" and "An Electric Bicycle Lamp" 1896 | [email protected] | Techniques | 15 | December 16th 07 07:43 AM |
I do not... (was Wafflycat slammed as "nutter" in Obs article on Lycra Louts) | Helen Deborah Vecht | UK | 2 | June 5th 06 02:44 PM |
Wikipedia - Today's featured article - "The Bicycle" | hippy | Australia | 3 | March 31st 05 11:25 AM |