Final steps when chain cleaning

On Tue, 29 Jul 2003 02:22:45 GMT, Werehatrack
wrote:
If the user isn't employing an expensive and exotic lubicant, is there
some reason not to simply dunk the clean chain in a can of lube and
let it sit for a day or two?

I use lubes that don't come in quantities or packaging suitable
for this method...a bike lube that comes in a little squirt bottle
or a spray can.

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Spider wrote:
David Kunz wrote in message . earthlink.net...

Alex Rodriguez wrote:

In article ,
says...


I ride a Trek Liquid 20 in Singapore. That means inordinate amounts
of mud and water.
I've been wondering about the cleaning and lubricating process.
I end up doing things the way Park Tools advocates...
http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/CM5.shtml
Where I'm puzzled is the "drying the chain with a rag" bit, after
cleaning/rinsing the chain and before lubricating it.
The thing I've noticed is, "yeah, I can get the moisture off the
plates and things, but if you look in the cracks and crevices, you can
see that there is definitely water trapped here and there. All the
rag-wiping in the world isn't going to drain it out.
I think about the only thing you could do would be to run a hair dryer
on the chain. Or perhaps if you let the chain sit out overnight it
would mostly evaporate (or rust...)
So what should I do? and how long to wait after "wiping with rag" to
actually spray on the lubricant?


You can do a better job of cleaning the chain by simply removing it and
soaking it in your favorite solvent and agitate the container every so
often. Then let the chain dry and lube with your favorite lube. Do
one link at a time and let the lube soak in. Then wipe the excess lube
off with a clean rag. Then re-install the chain. It goes very fast.
If you use two chains to rotate on and off your bike, you are never
without use of your bike.

When I do this, my chain doesn't last as long as when I use one of the
on bike cleaners. I tried turpentine for 2 chains.

David


Odd, I get about double the life out of my chain by doing it this way
(I use mineral spirits, the kind most folks call paint thinner), but
it could be that I am just seeing two chain life-times, LOL!

I was surprised also because I'd read many posts similar to yours.
Later I read a couple that claimed that the solvent worked too well and
it was difficult to get the lube back deep into the chain, and that at
least one chain manufacturer (I dont' remember which) recommended
against it for that reason. Since I recycled my lube
(filtered/settled-decanted), I didn't expect this to be the problem (the
solvent felt pretty slippery after a while ), but maybe it was? After
the shorter life of the 1st chain, I made sure that I was more liberal
with the lube (wiping the excess off) -- didn't help.

BTW, the difference that I really notice is in the condition of the
cassette and the chainrings. I don't replace them nearly as often.
Taking the chain off really helps me clean all the cogs, so there may
be a benefit in that alone.

I spray simple green on the cogs and use the chain/pedals to drive them
holding a stiff narrow brush against them. When I took the chain off to
clean it, this was actually a *little* harder -- I turned the wheel
backwards to drive the cogs .

I use SRAM chains with PowerLinks, so it's a tool-free job.

Yep, me too.
Got a Wipperman for my next one though (for comparison ) -- it also
has a master link and is SUPPOSED to be better made.

David