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#1
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Schlumpf shifting techniques
I have never had accidental shifts, but I am also paranoid about that. What I do is screw in the left button more than the right button, so that it is harder to downshift. If the button is closer to the crank and not a lot is sticking out, then the chance of an accidental shift is decreased. This does, however, make my downshifts less successfull on average, but missing every other downshift is a lot better than accidentally shifting at 20mph. Plus, with the geared 29, I hardly find myself shifting anyway. I used to do the rub method by angling my foot in and letting it rub the button as I pedaled, but I find it less consistent than my new method, which is hard to explain. I sort of angle my foot in and then twist my foot so my ankle moves out away from the crank and then (with my foot still angled) give the button a good kick with the inside of my heel/foot. This method seems to engage the gear a lot better than the rub method and it works great with both 125s and 150s. I guess it helps to have big feet when using a schlumpf with long cranks though, my riding shoes are 11.5 US. -- siafirede 'DCuni' (http://www.dcuni.com/blog) - my blog about Unicycling in Washington DC, Virginia, Maryland *James* = my name | 'Myspace' (http://www.myspace.com/clawsout) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/69964 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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#2
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Schlumpf shifting techniques
Regarding downshifting, I've found that I've learned to shift my hips back ever so slightly as I downshift, kind of like I would if I were gliding or wheel walking. That way I don't fall off the front waiting for the low gear to engage. Also, I shift with a heel kick going down, whereas I use a heel roll going up. The other thing that I've found myself doing sometimes is shifting with the foot off of the pedal while the non-shifting foot rides one-footed for a fraction of the pedal stroke. I suspect this technique might be more useful when I switch to longer cranks. (I haven't had a chance to try since RTL because my hub is being worked on.) -- phlegm ------------------------------------------------------------------------ phlegm's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/8382 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/69964 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#3
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Schlumpf shifting techniques
I'm still learning to ride a KH guni, not ready to try shifting. (The weather, a bad cold, and work have kept me off the beauty.) Unfortunately I have bad habit of dragging my heel on the crank arm, so I'm paranoid that I'm gonna accidentally shift the guni. On top of that I had managed to mess up the allen hole of the guni crank bolt in my new KH geared hub. Since I didn't know how long the wait would be to get a replacement guni crank bolt from schlumpf, I looked for a local solution. Turns out that by drilling a 1/4 inch hole lengthwise through a standard KH crank bolt, it could be used in place of the guni crank bolt. The 1/4 inch hole prevents the shift rod from being damaged. With the drilled bolt you can not mount the shift buttons, but that worked out well for me because; I didn't want to shift on the fly yet, and it left no possibility of an accidental shift. Manual shifting can be done by pushing the shifter with a thin rod through the 1/4 inch crank hole. Turns out I received the new guni crank bolt from schlumpf in 8 calendar days Wow, So Fast!!!!!!!! So the drilled standard KH bolt wasn't all that necessary. Disclaimers: I only mention the drilling of the KH crank bolt in case it's a handy solution for someone else. I am no expert on the working of a guni, so while it seems to me a working modification, I don't know that it isn't harmful to that 'worth it's weight in gold' hub. I have used it for a very short distance of riding without any apparent damage. Also drilling the stainless steel KH crank bolt will likely ruin a couple drill bits. As for disabling the shifting, I expect that not installing the shift buttons with the special guni crank bolts (I have not tried that) would provide the same result. Given that I messed up the allen hole in the guni bolt while tightening the cranks, I'm thinking it may good to use the drilled KH crank bolt to initially seat and tighten the cranks on. The drilled KH bolt uses a larger allen wrench size and I haven't messed one of those up. Then when the cranks are on tight, replace the drilled bolt with the guni bolt. -- Chrashing Regards, Ken I've been flying....... ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Chrashing's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/7501 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/69964 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#4
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Schlumpf shifting techniques
I shift like Corbin. But I need 2-5 revolutions if I want to shift down. I think my left feet needs more training. The speed ist between 10 and 13 mph. I use the 125 or 145 Quax cranks at my 36". That are straight cranks. If I remember right, I have only one accidental shift during a short downhill. During normal rides on streets or soft graval I have no problems. -- JLo Sponsor:'POINT RACING TEAM' (http://www.pointbike.de) 'Einradhockeyliga' (http://www.einradhockeyliga.de) ------------------------------------------------------------------------ JLo's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/3223 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/69964 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#5
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Schlumpf shifting techniques
I'm now always shifting with my heel, no more ankle-bone action. The pegs on the pedals make it tricky to rotate your foot and nab the button. If you're having trouble you might try some less-aggressive pedals, at least till you get the hang of it. Lightening up the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals also makes it easier. ro -- rolandisimo ------------------------------------------------------------------------ rolandisimo's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/13769 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/69964 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#6
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Schlumpf shifting techniques
rolandisimo;1159790 wrote: I'm now always shifting with my heel, no more ankle-bone action. The pegs on the pedals make it tricky to rotate your foot and nab the button. If you're having trouble you might try some less-aggressive pedals, at least till you get the hang of it. Lightening up the amount of pressure you apply to the pedals also makes it easier. ro Good thinking. I used to do the ankle method, but the heel gives you a safer and more predictable shift. As far as aggressive pedals are concerned, I am using MG-1s which are quite sticky, but I use a trail running shoe that doesn't have a sole made for sticking to platform pedals. MG-1s plus trail running shoes (with a pull lace system) work quite well for me. Playing with how far the buttons stick out also will help shifting. I found that moving the button as little as one rotation out sometimes makes a world of a difference. -- siafirede 'DCuni' (http://www.dcuni.com/blog) - my blog about Unicycling in Washington DC, Virginia, Maryland *James* = my name ------------------------------------------------------------------------ siafirede's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/6057 View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/69964 Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
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