|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Broken spoke
Hi,
Out on a ride today and noticed after a about 15 miles that my rear wheel was rubbing slightly against left brake shoe. Closer inspection revealed a broken spoke. Replaced the spoke today with one from my old LX/Mavic wheel, which are the same size and thickness as my current XT/Mavic wheel. But, the wheel wobble is worse now than before. How much can I expect to pay to have the wheel 'trued'? I've looked at various D.I.Y. cycle maintenance web-sites but they all recommend using a 'truing jig', which unfortunately I don't have access too. Thanks George |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
How much can I expect to pay to have
the wheel 'trued'? I've looked at various D.I.Y. cycle maintenance web-sites but they all recommend using a 'truing jig', which unfortunately I don't have access too. I've paid between five and eight pounds for wheel truing which sometimes included the replacement of a couple of spokes. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
George Hauxwell wrote:
Out on a ride today and noticed after a about 15 miles that my rear wheel was rubbing slightly against left brake shoe. Closer inspection revealed a broken spoke. Replaced the spoke today with one from my old LX/Mavic wheel, which are the same size and thickness as my current XT/Mavic wheel. But, the wheel wobble is worse now than before. How much can I expect to pay to have the wheel 'trued'? A few quid. Assuming the shop knows how to do it better than you do - some are hopeless, some are excellent ! I've looked at various D.I.Y. cycle maintenance web-sites but they all recommend using a 'truing jig', which unfortunately I don't have access too. You don't need a truing jig to fix a one wobble from a single broken spoke ! It helps if you can turn your bike upside down and clamp it so that both hands are free - a few lumps of wood can be enough to hold it in place against a wall or bench. Use something like a pencil held against a fork to track where the wobble is in the wheel rim. Work out which way it goes - usually most of the revolution is correct, and then it will sway wrongly for about three spokes worth and back again. Use chalk or any other convinient marker to mark where the wobble lies so you can get back to it easily. Work out for those spokes which need tightening and which loosening to pull the rim in the desired direction. Chances are that one of the group you've marked is the spoke you changed. Start by altering that one as the others are unlikely to be wrong. Make notes of what you change so you can turn back the same number of turns if its going the wrong way ! Keep checking the movement with respect to the "decent" part of the rim using the pencil held against a fork. You should be able to get under a couple of mm of movement without too much effort. Don't forget the stuff about stress relieving the new spoke - grab it and an adjacent spoke and squeeze hard so you over-stretch it temporarily and then release. - Nigel -- NC - Webmaster for http://www.2mm.org.uk/ Replies to newsgroup postings to the newsgroup please. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
George Hauxwell wrote:
Hi, Out on a ride today and noticed after a about 15 miles that my rear wheel was rubbing slightly against left brake shoe. Closer inspection revealed a broken spoke. Replaced the spoke today with one from my old LX/Mavic wheel, which are the same size and thickness as my current XT/Mavic wheel. But, the wheel wobble is worse now than before. How much can I expect to pay to have the wheel 'trued'? I've looked at various D.I.Y. cycle maintenance web-sites but they all recommend using a 'truing jig', which unfortunately I don't have access too. A jig makes the job quicker and more pleasant but isn't essential. You can use the bike frame and brake blocks as a guide. Just be aware that the brakes may not be centered. ~PB |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks folks!
Following the advice here I now have a wheel which is spinning very true.. Whether each spoke has the right amount of tension I don't know. I've checked and tightened any loose spokes, some appear tighter than others due to the trueing process - is this o.k.? I'll have a ride tomorrow and check it all again then. Thanks again, George |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
George Hauxwell wrote:
Whether each spoke has the right amount of tension I don't know. I've checked and tightened any loose spokes, some appear tighter than others due to the trueing process - is this o.k.? Pluck spokes and listen to the tone. Ideally the tension should be even* but don't worry if it's not perfect. However, the rim is probably bent if it's impossible to get it even: best to replace rim then. * Except that the left-hand spokes on rear multi-gear wheel should be slacker than the right ones. ~PB |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 02 Jan 2005 22:48:39 +0000, David Martin
wrote: and they should all go *ping*[1] rather than the sound a wet herring makes when it hits a tarmac floor. ..d [1] for given tones of *ping*. I have tried truing a wheel by pitch before. It isn't an easy thing to do. I was given a new rear wheel for Christmas. I also discovered my sister has "perfect pitch". Much harmless fun was had, asking her to identify the note a spoke played when plucked. Tim |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
George Hauxwell wrote:
Thanks folks! Following the advice here I now have a wheel which is spinning very true.. Whether each spoke has the right amount of tension I don't know. I've checked and tightened any loose spokes, some appear tighter than others due to the trueing process - is this o.k.? I'll have a ride tomorrow and check it all again then. They should all be the same tension on the same side of the wheel. The rear will have different tensions on the drive and non-drive sides, unless dishless |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
On Sun, 2 Jan 2005 17:44:13 -0000, "George Hauxwell"
wrote: Hi, Out on a ride today and noticed after a about 15 miles that my rear wheel was rubbing slightly against left brake shoe. Closer inspection revealed a broken spoke. Replaced the spoke today with one from my old LX/Mavic wheel, which are the same size and thickness as my current XT/Mavic wheel. But, the wheel wobble is worse now than before. How much can I expect to pay to have the wheel 'trued'? I've looked at various D.I.Y. cycle maintenance web-sites but they all recommend using a 'truing jig', which unfortunately I don't have access too. I only got a quote (by phone)for doing this once. I had four wheels that I wanted trued and was quoted £60 by TRI-UK in Yeovil. I bought myself a spokey as recommended by someone on this newsgroup and did them myself. I don't claim to have done a perfect job but the two that are in regular use have coped with as much as 26 stone for a short period of time. I've now ridden about 700 miles on them (but I'm a lighter 20 to 20.5 stone now) and still no problems with them. Its a pretty good skill to have and damn useful I would imagine if you get into a minor accident far from home and the wheel gets slightly knocked out of true. |
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Rec.Bicycles Frequently Asked Questions Posting Part 1/5 | Mike Iglesias | General | 4 | October 29th 04 07:11 AM |
Spoke Over-Tension and Drifting Wheel Alignment | mCrux | Techniques | 6 | August 25th 04 04:29 PM |
Wheel Rebuilding | TheObieOne3226 | Unicycling | 16 | January 1st 04 10:55 AM |
broken rear spoke | rlmarr | UK | 3 | November 20th 03 09:02 AM |
Proper tension for Rolf Sestriere? | Matt O'Toole | Techniques | 9 | October 30th 03 04:57 AM |