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More About Lights
On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 1:12:14 AM UTC-5, James wrote:
On 10/03/17 17:02, Sir Ridesalot wrote: Bummer that your law is so specific. Where I am in Ontario, Canada it can get in the 90s F and have a humidity index of 90 - 100% at times. That's hard on the system because you sweat a LOT but it doesn't evaporate but can run down into your eyes where it can burn as if it's an acid. Cheers We regularly get summertime temperatures over 100F here, and can be that humid as well. Good for rapid dehydration, hallucination, etc.. -- JS Saw a guy one year on the organized ride here. After 100 kms he was at the ride end and was in agony from severe cramping. Ended up in ER and last I hear was he'd had 4 IV bags pumped into him. I've heard from professional medical personnel that severe cramping can actually pull ligaments or tendons away from the bones or muscles. Yopu really do not want to get that dehydrated. Cheers |
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#72
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More About Lights
On 10/03/2017 12:55 AM, James wrote:
On 09/03/17 00:35, Duane wrote: On 07/03/2017 7:09 PM, James wrote: snip Now that you mention it... I don't like putting sun screen on the top of my head because in the heat and humidity I sweat a lot and it tends to run down into my eyes and stings most painfully with sun screen mixed in. So my foam hat has big ventilation holes that let the sun light through to my scalp. If I was allowed to ride without a foam hat I could keep the sun off my scalp with a cloth cap, but that's not an option in this country. If I develop a skin cancer on the top of my head, I shall seek to sue the government, for their law makes adequate sun protection with sufficient ventilation near on impossible. When it's too hot to ride with my cycling cap under my helmet, I use one of these: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5046-050/Summer-Skullcap Probably a better idea than skin cancer. How hot does it get where you are? Here in Quebec 32-34C. Not that bad as it isn't constant and not that humid. In New Orleans where I'm from, ~38 - 40C is not unusual. And always humid. I imagine it's hotter where you are but some of these UPF materials work pretty well. Light and cool. Not as spiffy as my cycling caps though. |
#74
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More About Lights
On Wed, 8 Mar 2017 09:34:49 -0800, sms
wrote: On 3/6/2017 7:41 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: I couldn't find any test reports or method used on the Supernova site. I did find this test of the M99 model: http://supernova-lights.com/en/blog/supernova-blog-1/post/first-test-performance-supernova-m99-pro-br-36 1100 lumens / 16 watts = 68.7 lumens/watt. Hmmm... No need to use the most expensive LEDs on a battery powered light. Yes, but they only deliver 68.7 lumens/watt instead of the spec sheet claim of 200 lumens/watt. As I explained in my previous rant, reflector loss, lens loss, electronics losses, power source ESR loss, and temperature derrating, are the culprits. In other words, don't expect to get spec sheet efficiencies from the finished product. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#75
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More About Lights
On Wed, 8 Mar 2017 09:45:43 -0800, sms
wrote: On 3/6/2017 9:22 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Kinda looks like all of them will sorta deliver 2.5 watts before the core saturates (to provide some level of voltage regulation). Further down the page is a "Low Speed Power" graph, which shows that most can produce 2.0-2.5 watts at 10km/hr. One could assume that the dynamo will deliver 4.0 watts, but that would require buying one of the few better (hub) dynamos listed, and riding at 25-30km/hr (15-19mph). If I were designing or sizing a lighting system suitable for my slow style of "cruising", I would use the worst case 10km/hr (6mph) and 2.0 watt figures. You've touched on one of the reasons why dynamo lights haven't caught on in the U.S.. Touched? I was trying to sledge hammer the reason. Basically, one design is not going to make everyone happy. Some riders can easily maintain the speeds necessary to utilize the dynamo at well above it's rated capacity. Others, like me, can barely make it spin. I'll spare you my rant on the benefits of a hybrid battery + dynamo system. I wish that it were possible for inexpensive, dynamo powered lights to provide adequate illumination for commuting, but it isn't. I recognize that few people can afford nearly $500 for a hub dynamo wheel and a SuperNova E3 Triple 2. For commuting, where there is no problem charging batteries every night, a high power LED set-up is more economical and provides better illumination. It's hard enough getting people to spend even $25 on a bicycle light, getting them fork out $500 for a dynamo wheel and a decent dynamo light would be damn near impossible. So how duz it cost to build one dynamo wheel and headlight? Prices are my guess(tm) based on experience and random googling. Shimano Nexus series hubs can be found for about $70. Wheelsmith spokes are about $0.50/ea or 26 for $18. Generic rim for $35. Tire, tube, and rim tape for $20. B&M Lumotec LUXOS B for $64. Wiring for free. ==================================== total = $207 While $207 is not cheap, it's much less than your $500 estimate. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#76
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More About Lights
On Wed, 8 Mar 2017 09:39:28 -0800, sms
wrote: On 3/6/2017 6:27 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: http://www.ebay.com/itm/142066277090 $0.97 gets you a two AAA batteries packaged inside a flasher You used to be able to get 2xAA powered flashers, but they weren't 97¢ I haven't seen any with AA batteries in many years. All the cheap ones seems to AAA. The trend now is toward smaller, USB rechargeable tail lights. No reason you could not charge these via a dynamo. Yep. That would make it a hybrid battery + dynamo system, which is what methinks might be the best compromise. However, it won't work for megalumen headlights because the dynamo charger will not deliver enough power to fully recharge the large battery required to run high power lighting. Among the cheap tail lights a https://www.amazon.com/Solar-Powered-Bike-Tail-Light/dp/B006FC6CJA $2.78. However, I couldn't find any really cheap Li-Ion rechargeable tail lights. The best I could do is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Rechargeable-White-Red-Bicycle-Tail-Light-Waterproof-6Modes-COB-led-Tailight-/401141418710 for $8.50. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#77
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On 3/10/2017 5:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 8 Mar 2017 09:45:43 -0800, sms wrote: On 3/6/2017 9:22 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Kinda looks like all of them will sorta deliver 2.5 watts before the core saturates (to provide some level of voltage regulation). Further down the page is a "Low Speed Power" graph, which shows that most can produce 2.0-2.5 watts at 10km/hr. One could assume that the dynamo will deliver 4.0 watts, but that would require buying one of the few better (hub) dynamos listed, and riding at 25-30km/hr (15-19mph). If I were designing or sizing a lighting system suitable for my slow style of "cruising", I would use the worst case 10km/hr (6mph) and 2.0 watt figures. You've touched on one of the reasons why dynamo lights haven't caught on in the U.S.. Touched? I was trying to sledge hammer the reason. Basically, one design is not going to make everyone happy. Some riders can easily maintain the speeds necessary to utilize the dynamo at well above it's rated capacity. Others, like me, can barely make it spin. I'll spare you my rant on the benefits of a hybrid battery + dynamo system. I wish that it were possible for inexpensive, dynamo powered lights to provide adequate illumination for commuting, but it isn't. I recognize that few people can afford nearly $500 for a hub dynamo wheel and a SuperNova E3 Triple 2. For commuting, where there is no problem charging batteries every night, a high power LED set-up is more economical and provides better illumination. It's hard enough getting people to spend even $25 on a bicycle light, getting them fork out $500 for a dynamo wheel and a decent dynamo light would be damn near impossible. So how duz it cost to build one dynamo wheel and headlight? Prices are my guess(tm) based on experience and random googling. Shimano Nexus series hubs can be found for about $70. Wheelsmith spokes are about $0.50/ea or 26 for $18. Generic rim for $35. Tire, tube, and rim tape for $20. B&M Lumotec LUXOS B for $64. Wiring for free. ==================================== total = $207 While $207 is not cheap, it's much less than your $500 estimate. Low price but no actual German electrons. You call that a fashion statement? -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#78
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More About Lights
On 3/10/2017 3:19 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 8 Mar 2017 09:45:43 -0800, sms wrote: On 3/6/2017 9:22 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Kinda looks like all of them will sorta deliver 2.5 watts before the core saturates (to provide some level of voltage regulation). Further down the page is a "Low Speed Power" graph, which shows that most can produce 2.0-2.5 watts at 10km/hr. One could assume that the dynamo will deliver 4.0 watts, but that would require buying one of the few better (hub) dynamos listed, and riding at 25-30km/hr (15-19mph). If I were designing or sizing a lighting system suitable for my slow style of "cruising", I would use the worst case 10km/hr (6mph) and 2.0 watt figures. You've touched on one of the reasons why dynamo lights haven't caught on in the U.S.. Touched? I was trying to sledge hammer the reason. Basically, one design is not going to make everyone happy. Some riders can easily maintain the speeds necessary to utilize the dynamo at well above it's rated capacity. Others, like me, can barely make it spin. I'll spare you my rant on the benefits of a hybrid battery + dynamo system. I wish that it were possible for inexpensive, dynamo powered lights to provide adequate illumination for commuting, but it isn't. I recognize that few people can afford nearly $500 for a hub dynamo wheel and a SuperNova E3 Triple 2. For commuting, where there is no problem charging batteries every night, a high power LED set-up is more economical and provides better illumination. It's hard enough getting people to spend even $25 on a bicycle light, getting them fork out $500 for a dynamo wheel and a decent dynamo light would be damn near impossible. So how duz it cost to build one dynamo wheel and headlight? Prices are my guess(tm) based on experience and random googling. Shimano Nexus series hubs can be found for about $70. Wheelsmith spokes are about $0.50/ea or 26 for $18. Generic rim for $35. Tire, tube, and rim tape for $20. B&M Lumotec LUXOS B for $64. Wiring for free. ==================================== total = $207 While $207 is not cheap, it's much less than your $500 estimate. Yes, I was looking at buying everything pre-made from a vendor like Peter White. A product, not a project. You can certainly buy a hub, spokes, and rim and assemble it yourself. You can even buy a good LED lamp for about $20, though without a standlight. You can buy dynamo wheels on e-Bay (generally NOS) for $100 or so, i.e. http://www.ebay.com/itm/282367087029 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/282316745203 plus shipping in some cases. |
#79
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More About Lights
On 11/03/17 00:05, Duane wrote:
On 10/03/2017 12:55 AM, James wrote: On 09/03/17 00:35, Duane wrote: On 07/03/2017 7:09 PM, James wrote: snip Now that you mention it... I don't like putting sun screen on the top of my head because in the heat and humidity I sweat a lot and it tends to run down into my eyes and stings most painfully with sun screen mixed in. So my foam hat has big ventilation holes that let the sun light through to my scalp. If I was allowed to ride without a foam hat I could keep the sun off my scalp with a cloth cap, but that's not an option in this country. If I develop a skin cancer on the top of my head, I shall seek to sue the government, for their law makes adequate sun protection with sufficient ventilation near on impossible. When it's too hot to ride with my cycling cap under my helmet, I use one of these: https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5046-050/Summer-Skullcap Probably a better idea than skin cancer. How hot does it get where you are? Here in Quebec 32-34C. Not that bad as it isn't constant and not that humid. In New Orleans where I'm from, ~38 - 40C is not unusual. And always humid. I imagine it's hotter where you are but some of these UPF materials work pretty well. Light and cool. Not as spiffy as my cycling caps though. Thanks. I might look in to it. Cheers. -- JS |
#80
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More About Lights
On Fri, 10 Mar 2017 17:30:57 -0600, AMuzi wrote:
So how duz it cost to build one dynamo wheel and headlight? Prices are my guess(tm) based on experience and random googling. Shimano Nexus series hubs can be found for about $70. Wheelsmith spokes are about $0.50/ea or 26 for $18. Typo. That should be 36 spokes for $18. Generic rim for $35. Tire, tube, and rim tape for $20. B&M Lumotec LUXOS B for $64. Wiring for free. ==================================== total = $207 While $207 is not cheap, it's much less than your $500 estimate. Low price but no actual German electrons. You call that a fashion statement? Well, Japanese and German electrons should be compatible. However, the cost of the SON hub needed to produce genuine German electrons is well over $200. That brings the cost of the wheel to $337. The prices I picked out of thin air are the cheapest that I could find new from vendors that sell component parts. I specifically did not use Banggood and AliExpress to avoid counterfeits and junk. Modifying an existing front wheel would save $55 for the rim, tire, and tube. Even running on Japanese electrons, it's still a rather expensive solution compared to a battery powered headlight and goes a long way to explain why battery powered lights are more common. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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