Replacing UG freehub with FH-290

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk stripping out the
aluminum thread?

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...3/IraqiEOD.jpg

On 2/12/2016 7:38 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on
my trusty Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since
they don't make the UG hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32
which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on the pouch and it is
about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock ring
which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with
and without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the
wheel. It's ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am
perfectly content with the six sprockets I had on the old UG
hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold
the freehub in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No
problem but sounds awfully high. Should I use that number or
does that risk stripping out the aluminum thread?


Shimano says the cassette body to hubshell bolt gets
35~50nm. Grease threads first.

If you intend to swap the new cassette body into your old
hubshell, there are various spacers and seals for the back
side of the cassette body/outer face of the hubshell which
vary slightly by year/model. Ensure the cassette body
doesn't drag on them.

Yes, check that the rim is centered over the locknuts. You
may and likely will have to adjust that.

Running six or seven sprockets on a modern 8-9-10 cassette
body will require some spacers behind the low gear and of
course re-use the six speed spacers between the sprockets
with new HG type sprockets. The HG high gear will be too
close to your 2d sprocket so add the splined steel spacer
from an older Shimano cassette under it.

Now's a good time to thoroughly clean out your hub and
finish the rebuild with new balls and fresh grease.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2016-02-13 06:03, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/12/2016 7:38 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on
my trusty Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since
they don't make the UG hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32
which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on the pouch and it is
about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock ring
which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with
and without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the
wheel. It's ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am
perfectly content with the six sprockets I had on the old UG
hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold
the freehub in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No
problem but sounds awfully high. Should I use that number or
does that risk stripping out the aluminum thread?


Shimano says the cassette body to hubshell bolt gets 35~50nm. Grease
threads first.


Thanks, that sounds like similar number. I always use Liqui-Moly paste
on threads. Shimano has some clear grease in there.


If you intend to swap the new cassette body into your old hubshell,
there are various spacers and seals for the back side of the cassette
body/outer face of the hubshell which vary slightly by year/model.
Ensure the cassette body doesn't drag on them.


This one only has one very thin cupped ring that looks like stainless
steel. I'll grind off the rim if that interferes.


Yes, check that the rim is centered over the locknuts. You may and
likely will have to adjust that.


Having no truing tools and little experience in that area I hope I'll
get away with loosening all the spokes to the left 1/4 turn and
tightening all the right ones 1/4 turn. Being an MTB rider I don't care
about a slight imperfection in the wheel even though this is my road bike.


Running six or seven sprockets on a modern 8-9-10 cassette body will
require some spacers behind the low gear and of course re-use the six
speed spacers between the sprockets with new HG type sprockets. The HG
high gear will be too close to your 2d sprocket so add the splined steel
spacer from an older Shimano cassette under it.


I believe the FH-290 is a 7-speed hub. What I did when my last UG
sprockets wore out is I bought a 7-speed MTB cassette and hacked it
apart, then used the individual sprockets with the arrows lined up, with
the old UG spacers in between. I'll probably keep doing that until the
last Wippermann 5/6-speed wide chain is used up and later throw the 7th
sprocket back in with the smaller spacers. I left out the 24T cog and
sometimes that would be nice to have. Got a Sedis 7-speed chain from a
friend and later I could use KMC 8-speed chains of something similar.


Now's a good time to thoroughly clean out your hub and finish the
rebuild with new balls and fresh grease.


Already cleaned. I was planning on doing that anyhow because the rear
started to develop some play. But no new balls, they look fine.

Of course, problem #2 has reared its head. The dust seal which seems to
be built into the FH-290 cassette does not fit. Its diameter is too
large. I can't run the bike sans dust seal out here because of the dry
dirt roads in summer where the rear hub is in a constant brown plume. So
I may have to cram some greased-up neoprene in there and hope for the
best. There is always something ...

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2016-02-12 17:38, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk stripping out the
aluminum thread?


So it's in there now. Had to move the center about 0.200" which meant
re-dishing. It wobbles a wee bit but ok to ride. The smallest sprocket
in back grumbles a bit when riding hard, for whatever reason.

As a dust seal I crammed in a grease-up leather gasket, held in place by
the cassette lock. Of course I didn't have the correct OD spacers for
the center move so now I can't get the sprockets off without taking the
axle out. Oh well. As grandpa Kettle said I'll fix that ... one of these
days.

If someone else gets into the same situation where a vintage Shimano 600
EX hub wears out it looks like the STX-RC or also called FH-M290 works
after some minor mods. You need to be inventive with the dust seal
because the old one doesn't fit plus in most cases like mine it is often
completely worn away anyhow. The hub doesn't seem to be of same quality
as the old UG hubs since it has some play in the bearings even when new.

Other: When doing the mod I realized that the Gatorskin tire began to
show some thread so I replaced it. Got 2534 miles out of this one,
can't complain. If these just had better side walls.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02) states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a 9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in. lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.
--
cheers,

John B.

On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg
wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived. Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02) states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a 9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in. lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That felt like a lot
for an aluminum threads even though it's a long one. The new freehub has
a slight play in the bearings. That was a bit disappointing. The old one
didn't until I crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no longer the
21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a brewpub :-)

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side bits
securely on oiled threads, adjust from the left side such
that there's the slightest trace of play out of bike and no
play when skewer is closed. Running it loose will give fast
and uneven wear.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that there's the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the rim there is
nothing. The play is in the freehub body and only the cassette rocks a
little, not the wheel. That's what my MTB freehub started doing after
1000mi and then around 1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the
start but some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2/14/2016 12:04 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-14 08:34, AMuzi wrote:
On 2/14/2016 9:38 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2016-02-13 18:49, John B. wrote:
On Fri, 12 Feb 2016 17:38:04 -0800, Joerg

wrote:

Folks,

Climbing up a hill I crunched another freehub. This time
on my trusty
Shimano 600 bike. It freehubbeth no more. Since they
don't make the UG
hubs anymore I ordered a STX-RX MC32 which just arrived.
Says FH-M290 on
the pouch and it is about 0.100" longer than the old UG
hub and the lock
ring which UG didn't have adds to that. I found such hubs
with and
without the MC32 whatever that means and most said
FH-M290 so I figured
they'd all be the same. But not sure.

The exact P/N on the package is: Y3AP98020

Can I just cram it in there? I'd hate to have to re-dish
the wheel. It's
ok if I can't use the outer gear since I am perfectly
content with the
six sprockets I had on the old UG hub.

Other question: I read that the 10mm Allen screw that
hold the freehub
in place needs to be torqued 30 lbs-ft. No problem but
sounds awfully
high. Should I use that number or does that risk
stripping out the
aluminum thread?

The Shimano Dealers Manual - Road Wheel Set (DM-WH0002-02)
states 45.0
- 50.0 Nm (373 - 437 In. Lb.), But I believe that is for a
9 or 10
speed hub. I did found the documentation for an 8 speed hub
(SI-6R3RA-001) that specifies 35 - 50 N·m (305 - 434 in.
lbs.) and if
the 7 speed uses the same thread size for the retaining
bolt I would
think that the torque would be much the same.


I greased it with Liqui-Moly and gave it 30 lbs-ft. That
felt like a lot for an aluminum threads even though it's a
long one. The new freehub has a slight play in the bearings.
That was a bit disappointing. The old one didn't until I
crunched it.

A fringe benefit is that I now have a 24T sprocket and no
longer the 21-28T step.

The test ride will be today. Another growler run to a
brewpub :-)


Take the time to redo the axle set. Lock the right side
bits securely on
oiled threads, adjust from the left side such that there's
the slightest
trace of play out of bike and no play when skewer is
closed. Running it
loose will give fast and uneven wear.


The axle is adjusted so it has no play. When I wiggle the
rim there is nothing. The play is in the freehub body and
only the cassette rocks a little, not the wheel. That's what
my MTB freehub started doing after 1000mi and then around
1500mi it failed on me. This one has it from the start but
some folks said a little play in the freehub is ok.


Double check that maybe.
New Shimano cassette bodies are phenomenally uniform. It's
much more likely that the total spacing of your cassette
sprockets and spacers is too thin and so the lockring
doesn't fully compress them.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971